sevoblast

For those of you building a Leo 1 or Gepard, you know the stock idler system is not too good, and that's being kind. The new HennTec, HT033, eliminates the single axle that both idler wheels rotate on and replaces them with the usual well constructed HennTec system. The system allows you to now adjust the track tension individually and is a much more positive adjustment that once made stays in place. Installation is simple, all the needed parts including screws, washers and nuts are included. Instructions are in German and English. Eto now has them in stock.

http://www.etoarmour.com/product_det...roductID=HT033

Since the Leo is next in the stream after the KV, I'll be taking a small break from the KV and will fool around with an idea I have concerning motive systems and suspension. I'll post the results.

sevoblast

Simple and easy way to eliminate the stock Tammy road wheel retention system on the new, and old, Leo 1 and Gepard.

Obtain a set of Tamiya KT road wheel axles, two sets. You will use only the long axles.

Take each suspension arm and cut off the serrated 'axle' and file smooth the face.

Drill a 3.95 mm hole where the axle was.

Obtain 28 4x8 flanged and sealed bearings.

Drill out the outer face of the road wheel opening to the diameter of the flange on the bearings. Mine were 9.2 mm, but this may vary depending on who made the bearings. Only drill down 3 mm. This is for clearance of the new axle and the wheel hub.

Install the bearings in the wheel, one each side, and insert the axle.

Next, take each suspension arm and mark them L and R. Observe how they fit in each side of the hull, then drill out for a 2.5 mm set screw on the BOTTOM of each suspension arm.

Assemble the completed road wheel with axle in to each suspension arm, and mark the axle length outside of the suspension arm, IOW you will cut off the extra length of the KT axle. Make sure you have left about a half mm side to side play in the road wheel and that the wheel turns freely. Then disassemble the wheels from the suspension arm one at a time and cut off the axle on the inside of the line you made.

Reassemble. You now have bearings in your wheels and you do not have to buy expensive suspension arms, bushings, road wheels and caps. You can cut off the extension on the stock caps provided with the kit and glue them to the stock road wheels. I would suggest rubber cement. Be careful to NOT get any glue on the axle shaft head, as this will provide a bind in wheel operation

HAL_HUSKER

This is excellent... thanks for sharing Bob...

sevoblast

You are most welcome, Hal. My Leo is next after the KV is completed, but this afternoon I just wanted to try this. It works.

WhiteWolf McBride

My Feedback: (3)

Sevo:

I wonder... AFV allows you to send in original parts for modification, the suspension brackets for example, to take the 'waterproof'' adaptation that adds a shouldcer in the outer edge for a o-ring. I cannot remember if they allow you to send in the suspension arms for their mounting system (uses a screw-in bolt to Leo arms) but if anyone has the means, would they be willing to do the Leopard/Gepard suspension arm mod for someone w/o tools, if one sent in the roadwheels and arms, and then could supply the axles bearings and setscrews for the returned modified suspension?

Or if this was to be 'kitted' for North Americans, would the AFV-type mod be easier... I'm no machinist, so I don't know.

Think about it, and let us know? I know from my attempt with the T55 roadwheels, I'm not capable of that kind of roadwheel drilling for bearings - mine wobble.

WhiteWolf

Strato50

These systems are amazing, I love it in my Tiger

YHR

This is very interesting and I contemplated getting rid of the nylon axles.

Food for thought though, and don't be too quick to get rid of this Leo axle set up..

Tamiya is not using regular nylon. They are using Delrin. I am familiar with this stuff from my N scale model railroad days. It is a specially designed resin polymer that is self lubricating and designed for low friction applications to eliminate wear and squeaks.. The stuff is impossible to get paint to stick to and is very durable.

I am not saying this for sure, but I believe the use of this product will become the new standard, and is better then the old methods we are used to seeing. It is less expensive and requires less maintenance then bearings. For a model tank application I think Tamiya hit the nail on the head when they chose to use this stuff in the new Leopard. The design of the metal arms with the Delrin axles and wheel hubs is exactly the kind of stuff I expect to see in a kit that costs this much. New design, better technology being employed.

Because I have been exposed to this "plastic" before I was not quick to get rid of it. I have a fleet of model railroad engines that never need maintenace or lubrication because of this stuff. For me it is a wait and see thing. If this stuff ever wears out or causes some problems then I may look at modding what Tamiya built. However my experence with Delrin leads me to believe its application in a model tank is not going to cause me any problems

It will be interesting to see what shows up in the new IS2. Just don't be too quick to be critical of this development. It may be a good thing.

Some info

[link=http://plastics.dupont.com/plastics/pdflit/europe/delrin/DELLWLFe.pdf]Delrin[/link]

Panther F

We used Delrin in HO Racing as it is impervious to lubricants that have petroleum ingredients.

A really tough product, as long as it's not subjected to a weight bearing load application.














~ Jeff

YHR

You would be talking about a load arm application? ie the swing arms? I think in the bearing shaft application Tamiya has used them in will cause no issues. Time will tell.

Panther F

I am not sure what the material Tamiya used in the Leo A6 FO kit, but they have been known to crack and fail prompting IMPACT to offer them in metal as all the other FO RC tanks have metal arms.














~ Jeff

Rebellion13

Since I plan on getting the Tamiya Tiger and it's recommended to upgrade the track tensioner is HennTec the way to go, I know Daryl Turner makes them also? Thanks.

Cheers,
Wade

sevoblast

That's a judgment call between the Daryl idler system and the HennTec. Depending on what you are going to do, battling at Danville I'd recommend the Daryl's system, as it's spring loaded and works better with the stock tracks in the still somewhat rocky Danville Battlefield. For metal tracks at Danville I'd recommend HennTec. For just general running, including rough running, the HennTec will carry the load. Both can be used with metal tracks. I personally use both systems with not a problem from either.

http://www.etoarmour.com/product_det...productID=DP02

http://www.etoarmour.com/product_det...roductID=HT013

YHR

In the new Tamiya Leo 1 kit, these Delrin parts are only the axles and a hub that slide over them. You end up with Delrin on Delrin. I don't see anything there is to crack on these but again time will tell.

Rebellion13

Ok thanks Robert, I plan on battling, hard running around the house and hopefully some NEAD events, not sure about Danville. So it I might try the Daryl system, metal tracks might be later.

Cheers,
Wade

sevoblast

In that case go with the Daryl's part. I've used them since oh, I think late 2003. Grand set up.

Panther F

Well, you got me there as I do not have the kt but I do know of the arms cracking.














~ Jeff

Panther F

I need to upgrade to the DT system too on my Sturmtiger AFTER I get some metal tracks for it.

Steel arms there will be nice too.














~ Jeff