new Motor break in
05-25-2014, 12:38 PM
#1
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new Motor break in
Recommendations on how you guys do this would be helpful, yes I read the FAQ.
It sure would be easier to run them in the gearboxes mounted in the tank with no drive sprockets or tracks, anyone do it this way?
It sure would be easier to run them in the gearboxes mounted in the tank with no drive sprockets or tracks, anyone do it this way?
05-25-2014, 01:46 PM
#2
I generally break in the motor at low rpm off the gearboxes. Hooked up to the esc (DMD, RX18), with the Tx throttle activated, preferably with just trims (if HL, using rubber bands to hold the stick), I'll run it for about 20 minutes in both directions.
From what I understand, it's to set the brushes, but honestly, my first two Tamiyas, the Tiger I and M4, I didn't break in and they are still running strong after over a decade.
In terms of gearboxes, you'll get recomendations all over the place, from using valve grinding paste, to running dry, to running oiled.
I'm from the school of you break things in as you'd use them, so again, I haven't on any of my older stuff with no issues. If I was dropping a few hundred bucks on gearboxes, I may take a different approach, stock, I'm not really worried about.
From what I understand, it's to set the brushes, but honestly, my first two Tamiyas, the Tiger I and M4, I didn't break in and they are still running strong after over a decade.
In terms of gearboxes, you'll get recomendations all over the place, from using valve grinding paste, to running dry, to running oiled.
I'm from the school of you break things in as you'd use them, so again, I haven't on any of my older stuff with no issues. If I was dropping a few hundred bucks on gearboxes, I may take a different approach, stock, I'm not really worried about.
05-25-2014, 02:43 PM
#3
The RC car guys run their 540 motors connected direct to a 7.2 volt power supply in water for a short period of time. Sounds weird but seems to work. Tanking is such an un-demanding application that you probably can't tell the difference, though.
05-27-2014, 06:43 PM
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*nods to cleong*
They called it 'dipping'... you started up the motor, then 'dipped' it into your water bath for a short period (don't remember how long, but it was easy enough to find!) and then pull her out and re-lube her. Be sure to dry/relube her, otherwise yer motor parts will get rusty. And this 'found' page doesn't use a full pack (and I don't remember it using one either) I can understand it as you only need enough rpm to 'set' the brushes.
When I used to clean/relube my motors after a day's racing, I used 'motor cleaner' and held the motor over the toilet, so the crap could be easily disposed of (first the flushed out stuff, then any excess lube - usually WD40 - and so I could see when the motor-flush was running clean.
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/rc-d...tep-guide.html
Also saw a Youtube demo on this, as some might =ind it easier to follow:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IVxf_6vFB1o
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xVk4kVVJdds (this guy shows wet vs try breakin methods - also indicates longer water dip, remembered dips were a minute or so)
You can do this to open-brushed and sealed-can (like stock Tamiyas) motors.
NOTES:
- Don't use an ESC. You will probably kill it, or make its protection circuit kick in. We used to use old wiper-type MSC's, so if you have one, put it to good use. A simple on-off switch between the motor and battery is enough. You could even use a toggle switch, that has to be help 'on' so if anything goes wrong, you let go, and its disconnected.
- Make sure its connected to the batteries so the motor turns in the correct direction. If you are using an adjustable-timing motor, you may have to adjust it before and then after you set the brushes...
- Yes, distilled water is better, as it has fewer particles to conduct the electricity... even filtered tap water is better... (use for those used Brita Filters, eh?)
WhiteWolf
- remembering one of the way-back-when tricks used when he used to off-road buggy-race.
They called it 'dipping'... you started up the motor, then 'dipped' it into your water bath for a short period (don't remember how long, but it was easy enough to find!) and then pull her out and re-lube her. Be sure to dry/relube her, otherwise yer motor parts will get rusty. And this 'found' page doesn't use a full pack (and I don't remember it using one either) I can understand it as you only need enough rpm to 'set' the brushes.
When I used to clean/relube my motors after a day's racing, I used 'motor cleaner' and held the motor over the toilet, so the crap could be easily disposed of (first the flushed out stuff, then any excess lube - usually WD40 - and so I could see when the motor-flush was running clean.
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/rc-d...tep-guide.html
Also saw a Youtube demo on this, as some might =ind it easier to follow:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IVxf_6vFB1o
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xVk4kVVJdds (this guy shows wet vs try breakin methods - also indicates longer water dip, remembered dips were a minute or so)
You can do this to open-brushed and sealed-can (like stock Tamiyas) motors.
NOTES:
- Don't use an ESC. You will probably kill it, or make its protection circuit kick in. We used to use old wiper-type MSC's, so if you have one, put it to good use. A simple on-off switch between the motor and battery is enough. You could even use a toggle switch, that has to be help 'on' so if anything goes wrong, you let go, and its disconnected.
- Make sure its connected to the batteries so the motor turns in the correct direction. If you are using an adjustable-timing motor, you may have to adjust it before and then after you set the brushes...
- Yes, distilled water is better, as it has fewer particles to conduct the electricity... even filtered tap water is better... (use for those used Brita Filters, eh?)
WhiteWolf
- remembering one of the way-back-when tricks used when he used to off-road buggy-race.
Last edited by WhiteWolf McBride; 05-27-2014 at 06:51 PM.
05-28-2014, 05:52 AM
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A bushing oil and comm drops..never liked the water dip. Com drops condition the brushed while bushing lube, or if you can. Find it bushing buster( break in drops for bronze bushings used in old school stock motor racing) works great.. 2 drops of marvel mystery oil on bushings also works great..it seeps into the bushings and gives a few more rpm's
05-28-2014, 12:52 PM
#6
I totally agree.."dipping" is best method(the water helps wash away all the tiny bits of metal as opposed to the "dry" method). Worked so well in for me back in my rc car racing days in the 80's when everybody ran the stock motors some racers accused me of cheating lol! Plus I also noticed that my motors tended to last much longer the ones ran straight out the box.. I usually ran for about 2-3 min then switched directions(and water), then switched back(with new water again), to the primary direction before I pulled it out and cleaned it with either WD40 or an RC motor spray, also make sure to lube the bushings(or bearings) with a good rc grade bearing oil(I prefer "Trinity")..
p.s. Also make sure to vary the motor speed now and then while it is in the water..
p.s. Also make sure to vary the motor speed now and then while it is in the water..
*nods to cleong*
They called it 'dipping'... you started up the motor, then 'dipped' it into your water bath for a short period (don't remember how long, but it was easy enough to find!) and then pull her out and re-lube her. Be sure to dry/relube her, otherwise yer motor parts will get rusty. And this 'found' page doesn't use a full pack (and I don't remember it using one either) I can understand it as you only need enough rpm to 'set' the brushes.
When I used to clean/relube my motors after a day's racing, I used 'motor cleaner' and held the motor over the toilet, so the crap could be easily disposed of (first the flushed out stuff, then any excess lube - usually WD40 - and so I could see when the motor-flush was running clean.
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/rc-d...tep-guide.html
Also saw a Youtube demo on this, as some might =ind it easier to follow:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IVxf_6vFB1o
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xVk4kVVJdds (this guy shows wet vs try breakin methods - also indicates longer water dip, remembered dips were a minute or so)
You can do this to open-brushed and sealed-can (like stock Tamiyas) motors.
NOTES:
- Don't use an ESC. You will probably kill it, or make its protection circuit kick in. We used to use old wiper-type MSC's, so if you have one, put it to good use. A simple on-off switch between the motor and battery is enough. You could even use a toggle switch, that has to be help 'on' so if anything goes wrong, you let go, and its disconnected.
- Make sure its connected to the batteries so the motor turns in the correct direction. If you are using an adjustable-timing motor, you may have to adjust it before and then after you set the brushes...
- Yes, distilled water is better, as it has fewer particles to conduct the electricity... even filtered tap water is better... (use for those used Brita Filters, eh?)
WhiteWolf
- remembering one of the way-back-when tricks used when he used to off-road buggy-race.
They called it 'dipping'... you started up the motor, then 'dipped' it into your water bath for a short period (don't remember how long, but it was easy enough to find!) and then pull her out and re-lube her. Be sure to dry/relube her, otherwise yer motor parts will get rusty. And this 'found' page doesn't use a full pack (and I don't remember it using one either) I can understand it as you only need enough rpm to 'set' the brushes.
When I used to clean/relube my motors after a day's racing, I used 'motor cleaner' and held the motor over the toilet, so the crap could be easily disposed of (first the flushed out stuff, then any excess lube - usually WD40 - and so I could see when the motor-flush was running clean.
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/rc-d...tep-guide.html
Also saw a Youtube demo on this, as some might =ind it easier to follow:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IVxf_6vFB1o
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xVk4kVVJdds (this guy shows wet vs try breakin methods - also indicates longer water dip, remembered dips were a minute or so)
You can do this to open-brushed and sealed-can (like stock Tamiyas) motors.
NOTES:
- Don't use an ESC. You will probably kill it, or make its protection circuit kick in. We used to use old wiper-type MSC's, so if you have one, put it to good use. A simple on-off switch between the motor and battery is enough. You could even use a toggle switch, that has to be help 'on' so if anything goes wrong, you let go, and its disconnected.
- Make sure its connected to the batteries so the motor turns in the correct direction. If you are using an adjustable-timing motor, you may have to adjust it before and then after you set the brushes...
- Yes, distilled water is better, as it has fewer particles to conduct the electricity... even filtered tap water is better... (use for those used Brita Filters, eh?)
WhiteWolf
- remembering one of the way-back-when tricks used when he used to off-road buggy-race.
Last edited by DirtyBird69; 05-28-2014 at 01:10 PM.
