Crius

I can pick up the tire glue at the post office in about 20 minutes so maybe I'll have the first test drive by tomorrow. Today we did the bench test, and everything works great. Have to test under load but I'm sure I'll need to set end points for throttle so it doesn't go too fast. I think this just might work out after all.

Crius

Crius

First paintball gun. Not sure if this will work, need further investigation.

TheBennyB

Gary, for the touchy throttle you could also add exponential to the throttle channel. It essentially "dumb's" it down and makes it more sluggish on the reaction of the stick movement.

Imex-Erik

Yea definitely set the end points super low and add that expo on both throttle and steering. I would think 50-70% expo would be about right. That will also save a ton of battery being so overpowered. Now you can build a wagon and carry yourself to your playground! Those things are so powerful, I think my next robot project will be using those motors.

Crius

Yeah, these motors are so strong it looks like I'll be setting my throttle end points at about 25%. The problem I'm having is that I can't figure out how to calibrate the sticks on the FlySky i10, like I do with the 9X. The 9X has a page in the menu for calibration, and as you all know, you move all the sticks and pots and it tells the radio where the sticks are. The i10 doesn't seem to have this feature and the only way I know to see the bars that tell you stick position is to go to the trim page. The problem there is that all the trims say zero but the bars for the sticks are not centered. Aileron is especially bad, and it's also the only stick that won't go to 100% on the bar when you apply full stick in either direction. This is gonna play hell with the stick commands of the IBU for stuff like engine start and lights on/off. I even tried a factory reset (now I have to re-set everything for the JT, which is also on this TX) and it didn't help. I sure hope it's not a bad gimbal. I really want to use the i10 because it's so darned easy to assign switches and pots to whatever channel I please, and I just learned it has built in model matching. Whatever tank I'm set for when I bind the receiver is the only tank that receiver will work for. If I switch to a different tank the RX for the first tank turns off.

My other choice is to use the 9X, but I haven't got a clue how to assign a pot to channel 5, or wherever I want it, and the same thing for switches. Another thing that may hurt me with the 9X is that I flashed the TankER9X firmware to it. So where are all you flysky gurus when I need ya? Or 9X gurus? Someone that can either teach me to calibrate the i10 or how to assign switches and pots for the 9X will be my hero for at least 20 minutes.

Of course, the i10 has another feature that would come in handy, and that's the slide switches on the shoulders of the TX. My plan for the hetzer is to use one of the three pots for volume control, and the other two will be directly connected to the servos that control elevation and traverse on the main gun. I want the pin point aiming control you can get with pots, especially since i'll be using FPV to aim the paintball, laser pointer included. The slide switches will control traverse on the remote MG34, and I'll still have one slide switch available should I need it. The 9X has three pots, but if I use them for main gun and volume I'll have to use turret rotation (or maybe the elevation servo) to control traverse on the remote MG34. With either TX I hope to use the barrel recoil servo circuit (with a much bigger servo, of course) to pull the trigger on the paintball pistol. That would work perfect, with a quick pull back to fire and then a slow return to get the trigger back and set for the next shot.

So anything anyone can suggest would be appreciated. Or maybe you can just drop by and fix this crap for me? I'll be home all weekend!

Or am I just totally in over my head?

Imex-Erik

Hey Gary, try this here: and see if that can get your TX in factory mode.

Crius

Thanks, Erik, I'll try that as soon as I finish this video for Mike on how to post photos.

Crius

double post

Crius

Looks like I owe ya another one, Erik. That's a very, very cool tip. Over the weekend I'll re-bind and re-set and see how she looks. I'll probably do some bench tests first. You guys know I'll keep ya posted.

Old MSgt

Aww Gary, you ain't got to make me a video on how to post pictures. What with the new format on here that I don't like and nobody wants to see anything I'm working on.

But if you need a different radio/receiver, what kind would you be looking for and how many channels? I've bought these tanks and they usually come with radios I can't figure out and more channels than I can use. All I need is four channels.

I'm not electronics smart like you, I'm more 'plug &play' and don't care for all that wiring inside the hull. I just build, detail, and drive around for my own enjoyment. I don't need the 'Bells & Whisles' cause that's more electrics and the sound would scare my wifes' mini horseys, the kittys, the bunnies, and little 'schrickens' (then THEY won't lay eggs!)

Mike

Old MSgt

Thanks Gary! Gary sent me a video about how to post pics on here. I tried it and it WORKED!

Thanks again Gary!

Mike

Crius

OK, got off to a great start and then hit a major problem. The snap ring/C-clips holding the roadwheels in place ain't gettin' it. Already got it figgered out, but the fix requires teardown and machine work so it will probably be next weekend before we're mobile again.

rivetcounter

Garry if the Hetzer is running on 24v then its vastly overpowered and could easily run on 12v, there is only one way to find out if this could run 12v and that is to test it, as you say a link out of the track as for the C clip I would use a washer and csk hex screw this would be far better.

I have to commend you on the work you have done so far its top notch sorry I haven’t had chance to post much lately, keep up the outstanding work you are inspiration to others.

TheBennyB

Nothing comes too easy with the small scale production or boutique builds Gary, no matter the scale. Gets frustrating but you've made some great progress and come up with solutions to keep you going.

Tankhobby

It's really frustrating to get so far along then have something go awry and set you back, like the c-clips in your case. But that's the challenge and I think that's what keeps us interested and dedicated to the hobby. In regards to your battery dilemma of buying the 6C batteries and now considering running the tank off of 12 volts (3C) I had a similar problem. I chose to go with two 3C batteries and harnessed it up, and now I have two other separate batteries, one for the receiver and servos and one for the Airsoft. So I charge and connect up four batteries every time I run the tank and wonder why I just didn't get a 6C battery (one less battery to monitor and connect). But now I have two chargers and rigged up a second harness for the four battery monitors and the two 3C batteries are backup batteries for my Stuart that uses 12 volts. If I only had that time travel machine!

You have made great progress and I'm looking forward to more posts as this project progresses. Thanks for being diligent in posting your progress on this, I'm interested in your c-clip solution.

Crius

Thanks for all the encouragement, guys. This one doesn't seem to be that big a deal to me, and like you say, it's all part of the hobby. I've already got it figgered out and I think my design will be an improvement, and that's a big part of the fun. Taking a kit and making it into something way beyond what the manufacturer started with, can ya dig it? I think we've definitely got their drive system licked and nobody can say our little Hetzer is still under powered! But when you increase power and torque it's only natural that you'll have to add some beef in a spot or two, ya know?

So here's what I have in mind

ausf

One question: After you stamp the arms, what's the firing order?

Imex-Erik

I didn't get to watch the video yet but I did skip through it a bit and it sure looks powerful! IMO it is always better to be overpowered and underpowered. If it is still too fast try reducing the endpoints a bit more and adding way more expo, especially for steering. What is your current expo and endpoint settings?

Crius

Well, looks like the game's up. The axles are too hard to tap, and with no way to hold the road wheels in place it looks like I bought a very expensive static model. I'm so mad and frustrated I think I might be done with this hobby all together. Anybody wanna buy a Hetzer?

Roboticus_Prime

Would enlarging the grooves and using better C-clips work?

Old MSgt

Yeah, what Roboticus Prime said.

IF the axles are too hard, they AIN'T too hard for a Dremel with a cutting wheel! Make the grooves deeper and get tight C clips.

If building these tanks was easy, then EVERBODY would be building'em!!! Overcoming obstickles is part of the job to be a 'STEELY EYED TANK BUILDER'! So git too it TANKER!

Mike (...and maybe you ain't using the right naughty words in copious amounts enough... I KNOW HOW TO USE'EM!)

Crius

During the first test I had a failure rate on the C clips of more than 63% and I'm not going to chase after a flawed design. The C Clips are out of here.

But I think I have it figured out. I'm going to try installing a stud. I'll use four mm threaded rod and use J-B Weld to glue it into the hole. I'll leave just enough of the rod sticking out for the washer and the nut and then I'll use Loctite on the nut and that should be fine.

TheBennyB

Sounds like that could work Gary. This time of year with the humidity make sure and give the JB weld a good 2-3 days to fully cure. May also want to scuff up the inside of the hole to give it some more tooth for the JB weld to grab. I went this approach on my first T-34 conversion with the drive sprockets. Ginded down the stock WSN shafts to fit in the tamiya output shaft end from a Sherman and JB welded it in. Lasted for several years.

Shorty54

Maybe a "Spirolox" would be worth a try. I am not sure if they make them that small though.