Esc retrofit
#1
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Esc retrofit
Any of you guys retrotit an esc into a chinese made tank. The electronics went out and i was thinking of getting some cheap esc's on ebay. I have a futaba radio and receiver. Is it just a matter of plugging them into the receiver? Not sure where the motor gets its power from. The esc only has wires to the motor and receiver, not battery.
#2
ESC should have a connection to the battery if it's a standard ESC. Just make sure it has reverse. Not all of them do.
#4
High pitched noise is coming from the motor housing. You're most likely hearing them on AC or boats using brushless motors where staging and arming sounds are programmed in the esc to be heard through the motor housing (esc's don't have speakers).
You can use an esc direct as Derek stated, but you'll need two, of the right amperage to handle the loaded motor, must be matched in terms of motor type (brushed) and have reverse. You'll also be giving up any sound or effect and would have to use servos to control rotation, elevation, recoil. Driving would be by two sticks unless you set up a good mix between the two motors via programming.
It all can be done, you just need to get the right stuff and most likely will be more expensive than just replacing the defective existing board,
You can use an esc direct as Derek stated, but you'll need two, of the right amperage to handle the loaded motor, must be matched in terms of motor type (brushed) and have reverse. You'll also be giving up any sound or effect and would have to use servos to control rotation, elevation, recoil. Driving would be by two sticks unless you set up a good mix between the two motors via programming.
It all can be done, you just need to get the right stuff and most likely will be more expensive than just replacing the defective existing board,
#7
What kind of Chinese tank is it? What scale?
#9
The second one won't work for what you are looking for. It does power two motors, but it does so on the same R/C input (IE: they both do the same thing and can't be controlled independently). That one is for cars with dual motors powering one drive line. Crius, I'm guessing he is looking for a less expensive option than the IBU or the Sabertooth. The first one looks like it will work, but you would need a hardware mixing circuit (IE: IMX-1) or be able to program your transmitter to mix the two channels if you want single stick operation. My paintball tanks use seperate ESCs that are mixed together with an IMX-1. Those are large tanks so they have Vantec 883 ESCs in them which are very expensive. When I get some time I'm trying to test this one: https://www.ebay.com/itm/FREE-shippi.../302595125190?.
#11
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Cheap
Cheap is right. I was thinking about using 2 of the first one listed with a vtail mixer. If i dont want reverse how about this ebay one:
112710302453
Its only 9.4 volts though. I need 9.6 v.
112710302453
Its only 9.4 volts though. I need 9.6 v.
#12
If it says 9.4V I would believe the vendor. It might work or you might burn it out. I like to spend money on something once so I will try to get an ESC which is slightly bigger than I need with a voltage rating higher than I need. It's up to you though. Part of the hobby is experimenting with different solutions.
#15
Yes the Vtail mixer looks like it will do what you want, but I do not have experience with any other mixer other than the IMX-1.
I have never seen an ESC rated as OUTPUT voltage. The way they are rated is input voltage and rated amps. You put more input voltage than they require and you let the magic smoke out and buy a replacement. Your motor draws more than the rated amps and you could let the smoke out. Never seen an ESC different than that. I have never seen an ESC that uses an input voltage different than the output voltage for the motors. The extra voltage has to go somewhere and it would be converted to heat. Most ESCs are already hot enough and it wouldn't make sense to generate more heat stepping the voltage down. They just pass the input voltage to the motors. To answer you second question...no. If you put 11V in you will get 11V out. If you put 7.4V in you will get 7.4V out.
I have never seen an ESC rated as OUTPUT voltage. The way they are rated is input voltage and rated amps. You put more input voltage than they require and you let the magic smoke out and buy a replacement. Your motor draws more than the rated amps and you could let the smoke out. Never seen an ESC different than that. I have never seen an ESC that uses an input voltage different than the output voltage for the motors. The extra voltage has to go somewhere and it would be converted to heat. Most ESCs are already hot enough and it wouldn't make sense to generate more heat stepping the voltage down. They just pass the input voltage to the motors. To answer you second question...no. If you put 11V in you will get 11V out. If you put 7.4V in you will get 7.4V out.
#17
If you want a high speed tank, Imex Erik has done some stuff you might want to look at. He used brushless motors and produced a tank that will drift on command, and I'm still trying to get him to go Evel Kenevel (sp?) and find out how many Jagdtigers he can jump the thing over.
Does anyone else remember that? I think he called it "Project Brushless". Here's the video. The road test starts at about 4:00
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6IAe...ature=youtu.be
And this is the thread
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/rc-t...ank-speed.html
Does anyone else remember that? I think he called it "Project Brushless". Here's the video. The road test starts at about 4:00
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6IAe...ature=youtu.be
And this is the thread
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/rc-t...ank-speed.html
#19
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Futaba device
Iam looking for a device that connects to a futaba receiver that when a switch or button is pressed on the transmitter, it activates an eletronic switch that could be used to turn on/off an electronic devive like a motor or light.
#20
You already said it. Its name is "electronic switch" you can find them for 3 euros at hobbiking.