markust74

I just got my Taigen full metal Panzer IV and am surprised by one detail and hope someone has a workaround. The power/volume switches are right on the bottom. I’m wondering where I can run this besides indoors without it getting wet/shorted.
Any workarounds appreciated much!!

mark

Kear-Skof

Pretty much every one of my Henglongs has the switches on the bottom and I've never had any problems besides a rock or two turning it off, Even with damp grass and mud. Any time I've driven one through water I've had tape over the switches

markust74

All of my HL’s have the switches on the top in the turret? Battery is only thing on the bottom.

markust74

The Taigen has the On/Off switch and then just a blank hole on the bottom waiting to be filled with sand/mud?

Crius

There's a thread around here somewhere that shows how to move the switches to the top so that they're underneath the driver's or assistant drivers hatch. I think one of the guys even designed a 3D printed piece to hold the switches, but that might have been for Sherman. But, should be easily adaptable to the P4.

markust74

have not found they thread??

Crius

Give it a little time, I'm sure one of the guys will be able to point us in the right direction eventually.

So which one of you guys made the switch holder for your P4?

heritage19

They sell clear rubber covers for on/off switches that protect the switch from the elements. In this application you would remove the switch, place the switch cover in the hole for the switch, place the switch back into the cover and re-screw the switch down. The switch covers are flexible and therefore move with the switch toggle. Look for them in RC truck parts, maybe rc plane accessories.

jarndice

I think that Rad Schuhart fits switches over the gearboxes of his PZ4 as do I,
All you need is a few screws a pin vise a bit of scrap 3mm plasticard and an (Empty) bean can plus the on/off switch and the volume control from the bottom of your Tank.
You need one section of the plasticard to go across the top of the gearboxes and two sections to make up supporting legs, The bean can is cut into strips that support the legs at the join to the cross section, I screw the volume control to the cross bar so that it is under the Drivers hatch and the on/off control under the radio ops hatch,
If you are a perfectionist like me, I pin vise through the hull sides and into the supporting legs,
I then run a countersunk screw into the hull and supporting leg each side,
Do make sure that the hull mg clears the cross section,
Job done.

sclui

Mark, this might be a bit more visual https://www.rctankwarfare.co.uk/foru...28955&start=60

Crius

Interesting, but the first post on that page is by Max-U52. He got banned. I'm not sure I'd listen to him. Some of the guys at rctw say he's a real jerk. Bwahahaha

sclui

I don't really know. It's about a PZ4, so I looked. I also contemplated relocating my switches, don't like having to feel for it underneath, especially it's recessed.

jarndice

Oh Crius if you only knew the fellow, what an utter bounder.
Seriously old friend you are much missed on that Forum.

markust74

I like the idea and simplicity of the idea of the “rubbers” for the on off switch...lol. I don’t think it would work for the volume as that one needs too much screwing and poking with a driver to hold up to any rubber (cover).
once I get all the guts out I will figure out the relocate.

thanks for suggesting safe tanking.. my tank appreciates not getting something from the mud!!


mark

sclui

Mark,

Look what I found! https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4556459/files

philipat

Nice find!

This is for an HL hull, but it solves the same concern. Pz IV Ausf G DAK Build

The RCTW idea is a good one, too.