MiamizFinest

my gearings on both cars right now are 25/36 and i dont burn clutches i use the ofna silver aluminum shoes or the blue ones...........after a while they do take a beating so i have to file them out and make them need again..............also i run vented monster GT flywheels to keep them cool

sorry i had a typo my gear ins 25/36

Harvz

I also use vented CB and flywheel. I don't think I'm gonna gear it up more, I hate replacing clutch shoe after every couple of run.

Here's a pic of a mugen clutch shoes after 8 tanks

MiamizFinest

WOW that banged up...............ive ever gotten mine to that point EVER!!!! here is what flywheel i use........

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXFUK2&P=7


its alot bigger than yours but still ur clutch shouldnt melt like that.............from the looks of it what might be ur problem is ur clutch bell bearing.........if u noticed the shield has bein blown off.........thats not a good sign............get those same shoes u have and file them down till there new again (takes like 5 minuet) change the bearings on the clutch bell (the best ones are the HPI savage clutch bearings those last for ever) AND buy ur self a small shim kit that cost about 3 bucks so u can make sure the clutch bell isnt moveing back and farth on the shaft.........

u might wanna look into geting a new clutch bell also...................LASTLY when ur car is at idle does it roller foward slowly or is it at a dead stop??? if you idle is to high it could be ripping apart ur clutch when u hit the brakes after a high speed run..........if anything holla at me

MiamizFinest

I like shareing pics so here is a pic of my other truggy a team losi muggy also with a novarossi 528 in it...................i think the kyosho will be fast since its alot lighter tho.........

dominic magri

miami.......... try to figure out a way to use air filled rc aircraft wheels. also if you cant do that, get thin plywood or sheet metal to sheild the inside of the wheels so air cant get in. also get sheet metal and make kind of a faring like on a motorcycle and cover the a arms for the least ammount of air resistance as possible like the streamliner trains and land speed racers. also, you can make a flexible skirt that hangs from the front and sides of the chassis to reduce the ammount of air under the car. this will improve traction. if you have ever observed the bumpers on the nascar cars,they are very low to minimize the ammount of air flow under the car.

let me know what you think and i hope this helps

joydude630

Hey Luke, any updates on your engine (v-spec)

MiamizFinest

Nope just waiting for it in the mail

Racing T

that muggy looks awesome, what tires and wheels are that?

joydude630

To get more top-end out of my engine which pipe is suitable; JP-3 or a OS 2060 pipe?

supertib

guys you are running 2 chamber race pipes....those do no make maximum power, they are designed to smooth out the powerband and reduce noise at a loss to maximum power..

you need to start experimenting with single chamber boat pipes and airpplane pipes, you will make way more power...

MiamizFinest

Most of our pipes are cut up and gutted out the one on my mayhem was converted to single chamber pipe

supertib

good stuff then ! I wish I was there to race you boys..!!!

mOnO n.s.G^

mine used to do that when i used to run it what does this mean

MiamizFinest

This means 2 things either ur clutch engades WAY TO FAST or ur idle is way too high..................either way what ends up happening is that when hit the brakes ur clutch is still kinda grabbed one and is geting hotter and hotter till it turns into something like what u see in the pic..............they way around this is to lower ur idle AND OR change the engadgement spings in ur clutch so it grabs later...........a well tuned car should be able to stay on at idle with out haveing to hit the brakes and still stay stoped with out moveing at all if u have any other questions let me know............

MBX5T Maniac

My Feedback: (-1)

Miamiz, another cause is a screwed up clutch. But if it is new, then it's as Miamiz said. More likely the idle, it should just be running when you have full brakes applied. 1mm gap when you have full brakes applied is about right

mOnO n.s.G^

the idle is not high at all. when it does this if i WOT it for a sec or two itll go back to normal so it still enagages 2 fast?

warrior43

unlike what you had been told before you do not want the whole tire to be touching the ground. se it up so only the inside portion is touhing cause the more tire touching the ground the more friction and the more friction the less speed.. good luck

mOnO n.s.G^

miami ne updates/pics/vids on ne project?

MiamizFinest

No updated at the moment the motor is fully broke in now and ready to go BUT if u notice i was running a JP3 pipe and i took it off since i finished building my truggy revo for the track.............now i will be waiting on my ofna 086 pipe and that should be here in about 2 or 3 weeks since my LHS is waiting to have on big ass order so it comes out cheaper for me (i ordered a long list of things) also it gives me time to built my center diff mod i will build that some time next week (hopfully if i have the chance i already have the parts tho)