splinterz25

Alright I was able to get the wings bloted on BUT there is a gap between the FUSE and the WING and there is no farring on this plane,I think I can fill the gap with a strip of hard balsa an cover it w/ resin. Some feed back here if you please

splinterz25

did some more this afternoon... glued in the keel wing brace and filled in the holes between the skin and the bomb bay!

wulf190

My Feedback: (19)

I used epoxy and West Systems colloidal silicate filler (a little like microballoons, but better) to fill a similar gap on my fuse/wing joint on my mosquito. It was a little tighter than yours is, but pretty close. I used clear packing tape with vaseline on it on the wing to keep it from sticking to the wing while it dried. It's tough as nails and seals up tight now.

splinterz25

Hay thats a great idea.... wulf190 I don't know why I didn't think of that! I can't see the forest because of the trees who sells the colloidal silcate filler never heard of it?

wulf190

My Feedback: (19)

You can get it at West Marine....#406

http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs...classNum=50222

Good stuff. Very strong, light and doesn't affect bond strength as much as micro balloons do. Don't mistake it to sand as easy as Evercoat or Bondo, but it works great on stuff like fillet gaps and fiberglass structural repairs and such.

splinterz25

starting to come together

splinterz25

OK here's a question for all of you war bird experts what is the moulding or trim looking piece that runs down the starboard side of the FUSE from just befor the TE of the wing to about half way down? Itgoes above the hatch , one guy on one of the other sites that I post on said it's to stiffen the FUSE. I dont know but they don't put things on a war bird for looks!

splinterz25

wulf190 I was just about to do what you had said but there's no way to pry it free because of the center keel If I would done this befor I glued that in it would have worked. So what I did was just let it level out on it owen then I sand to fit. On the other site I post o a guy said there was a thin matel flashing that coverd this gap and that the piece of molding that runs down the starboard side was to stiffen the FUSE, I'm guessing because of the hatch that is on that side it must have been enough to weakin the plywood skin because the other side doesn't have it! So I'll post some photos when this dries it just has been one hr. wulf I did use west systems 45 min epoxy w/ microballons and it looks real smooth so far.

splinterz25

still wet

splinterz25

Hey one of you guys told me that Trapletshop had a USA location to get the cowlings, cannopy etc. from does any one have that link all I can find is the one in the UK.

splinterz25

well the epoxy filler worked sum but there is still a small space that will get coverd w/ flashing. I always here guys talking about litho plate where do you get this from? Ididn't know any body still used this stuff any longer w/ laser printing and all, any way te next thing that I want to do is finish sanding the FUSE and sand seal and prime it as well and then finally finish hooking up the tail wheel assembly befor moveing on to the LE, FLAPS,AILERONS, WING tips and lights.

splinterz25

So I guess no one knows if traplet has ausa location?

flyingchef

My Feedback: (93)

Et Voila!

USA Office
Telephone: (217) 355-2970
Email: [email protected]
Fax: (217) 351 4135

Traplet Distribution USA Ltd
PO Box 6178
Champaign
IL 61826, USA

splinterz25

thank you flyingchef...... I knew some one told me they had a USA location.

F4u5

My Feedback: (81)

[:@] Nice work, but you are really making me want to get in and finish the Mossie that has been framed up in my garage for 7 years....like I have time

Keep going, it's looking great and you will love it.

Jeff

splinterz25

WOW.....7 years did the wood rot or warp how has it not been messed up?? that's a long time good luck w/ it.

splinterz25

Well I've been taking a break from building for a few days since I've been working on three different airplanes, just about every day for over a year now! but I have done some research on witch Mossie I will be doing. The pilot was Sir John William Maxwell (MAX) Aitken he was a Captain and station Commander at Banff Scotland and leader of the Banff strike wing. He flew many aircraft but the mark VI DeHavilland Mosquito that he flew serial code HR366 with the NO.235sq. and had painted on the side MA-01 in burguandy along with it's nose cones. I was able to find two photos of him w/ his plane but that is all so far.

splinterz25

splinterz25

I photo shoped the pic.

splinterz25

I did a little bit today started to hook up the new tail wheel retract. The first thing that I did was to replace the set screw they had a sloted screw I hate those there out dated so I changed it to a cap head screw. then I used a clevis to the arm and ran braded brass wires for the steering now I just have to hok up the severo end.

splinterz25

I need to order some 2/56 rigging couplers so I can hook up the steering for the tail wheel so I'll do that the next time I place an order. So
I've moved on to sheeting the bottom of the LE on the wings this way I can glue the LE on and rough shape it and then add the wing tips so I will be able to run the lighting out to the tip of the wing for the nav light. here is the link for the rigging couplers
www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p

splinterz25

Did some work on the LE can't seam to back into the bulding been doing some of my other art work lately the last few days but did remove the jig tabs and sand the wing to shape and added the bottom front shetting and now I just have to sand the front edge flush and glue on the LE and shape it.

splinterz25

Alright back again cut out and glued the LE on the left wing this morning and shaped the profile most of the way w/ out the radios I want to glue on the wing tips be for I finish the sanding. then I will move on to the NAV. lights and landing lights lenes this will be my first attempt at doing VAC. forming so if any of you pros out there have any words of wisdom feel free in sharring the thing I don't know is witch thickness works the best for clear light lenses again any help would be great. I think w/ this plane I will use park flyer lights from RAM lighting they will have to be spliced for the length but are much lighter wire and this is a very light build so if will let me I will post some photos of where I 'm at so far with this.

splinterz25

I can't belive nobody no's what is the best plastic and thickness to use for light lenes?

splinterz25

well I finished up the top of the scoop and moved on to looking at the nacelle parts I had been told by another builder that Bob Holmans parts were wrong here and he was correct one side fits very well while the outher does not what los like happend again was transposing some numbers when entering them into the laser cutter if you turn the piece around it will fit w/ alittle sanding so I will have to make some corections here I will post them when I do this. The other thing that I don't like is the wing tips Brian has them being made from four pieces being steped down I am changing this buy gluing the bigest piece to a 1/2" thick sheet of balsa! YES it's more carving and sanding but that's is what I like about making these planes anyway. the other thing is it looks like I have two extra parts for the nacelle for some reason? so here are some pics of all of this I hope you can figure it out.