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Hangar 9 60cc Corsair

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Old 03-27-2015, 09:53 AM
  #1726  
Cpig
 
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Mirored,
Fixed gaps looks pretty good, thanks for the pics. What did you use for filler?
Old 03-27-2015, 11:20 AM
  #1727  
mirored
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Originally Posted by Cpig
Mirored,
Fixed gaps looks pretty good, thanks for the pics. What did you use for filler?
The ends of the control surfaces, I added balsa and shaped/sanded to match the adjacent piece. I will be covering it with fiberglass to match the rest of the plane that I have fully covered in fiberglass. As for the surfaces, that is fiberglass, sanded and spot putty from car finish that fills any imperfections. Next is primer, sanded, then paint.
Old 03-27-2015, 11:45 AM
  #1728  
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Ron, here are the pictures with the EME 70 mounted with cowl. No hole on the right side. The hole for the ignition cap on the left doesn't seem very noticeable.
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Old 03-27-2015, 01:58 PM
  #1729  
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Working on the retracts with a question - with 4 door servos, I feel it would be best to put each one on a separate channel to help with end point settings, etc., however, with the DX18, I'm not sure it will handle mixing the 4 servos with a gear retract valve and the sequencing. I am relatively new to the DX18 and am not totally familiar with its capabilities yet. Any thoughts?
Old 03-27-2015, 02:51 PM
  #1730  
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Ted62-

https://youtu.be/tEBG7SYXBsg Here is a video of my just finished 85" ESM Corsair with 4 servos on the gear doors. I used the EMS gear door sequencer on one channel. I just set up each servo the same from the closed door position. It was nice not using up 4 channels. Good Luck.
Old 03-27-2015, 03:02 PM
  #1731  
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..

Last edited by Cpig; 04-24-2015 at 05:09 PM.
Old 03-27-2015, 03:37 PM
  #1732  
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Ted62, I have a similar setup using the DX18. I use a Y cable on each set of doors, so I only have 2 channels going into the receiver. On the DX18, I just have two mixes. One is the "main" mix that controls one of the gear doors with the retracts, and then the other mix just controlling doors and set to the same timing as the first sequence. Everything fires at the same time as each other... theoretically if you have "10 servos" you just create 10 mixes, with the same timing layout etc.
Old 03-27-2015, 04:26 PM
  #1733  
Ted62
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Originally Posted by chorner
Ted62, I have a similar setup using the DX18. I use a Y cable on each set of doors, so I only have 2 channels going into the receiver. On the DX18, I just have two mixes. One is the "main" mix that controls one of the gear doors with the retracts, and then the other mix just controlling doors and set to the same timing as the first sequence. Everything fires at the same time as each other... theoretically if you have "10 servos" you just create 10 mixes, with the same timing layout etc.
Thanks, Cody - Looks to me to be a very logical method (1 "Y" per bay) - I'm sitting down this weekend with the DX18 manual in hand and studying! LOL My original intent was was to use a Y cable per bay, but, the physical arrangement of the servos makes me uncomfortable trying to make the linkages all work exactly the same; thus, being able to individually adjust end points, travel, etc., is attractive. However, knowing that you have worked it out with ganging the servos via a "Y" cable in one bay to work well is encouraging. I may ask you for your setup data eventually if it's possible - thanks again - love this forum.
Old 03-27-2015, 04:51 PM
  #1734  
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No need to study Ted! Just pick up your radio and go through it The Spektrum radios are about as easy as it gets to navigate and figure out for the most part anyhow. Plus, it's always better if possible to get the linkage equal on both sides.. at least in terms of outer and inner gear doors! Though if it's too much of a pain in the rear, it's not out of the question to setup all 4 independently anyhow Good luck with it all!
Old 03-28-2015, 05:13 PM
  #1735  
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What are you guys using for servos? I would like to go with HV servos and I tend to stay away from Hitec.
Old 03-28-2015, 08:45 PM
  #1736  
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I just completed my door set up. I used 4 Hitec HS5087MH Micro digital servos. They work very well off of one channel using 3Y connectors. The hinges are Sierra Bomb Door ( small ).since each servo has to be programed individually I used the HFG-25 servo programer. One servo in each bay has to be reversed, and all servos were programed to 180 deg, the end points were set per each individual door.
This required no Tx adjusting and should allow Rx change with minimal adjustment.

Last edited by DOC; 03-29-2015 at 06:28 AM.
Old 03-29-2015, 11:57 AM
  #1737  
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Ted,
I used 4 servos for the gear doors also and used the sequencer built into the DX-18 to operate them individually and incorporated the retract (air) valve also. I had used a Spektrum 12120 12 channel receiver with the X plus expander. It WAS a little confusing at first setting up the sequencer, but what I did was set up the receiver on a table, connected 5 servos (4 for the doors and 1 for the valve) and just played with the sequencer until I saw how it all functioned. Nice as you can adjust the direction, travel, and timing of each of the doors and valve. Once installed in the aircraft, it all worked perfectly and haven't adjusted it since. Word of advice, I used nylon geared servos at first and the large surface area of the door and wind blast stripped 1 servo, so I replaced them with metal gear servos.
Reason for so many channels, is the customer wanted all the bells and whistles on his plane, lights, bomb drops, gyro, etc. Used 17 channels, but everthing is individually adjustable which you cannot do using Y-harnesses. There will be those that say I'm wrong, but I refuse to use Y-harnesses as I have seen a number of them fail (ESPECIALLY the reversing ones) For the amount of money invested in this aircraft, a higher channel receiver isn't that much more.
Old 03-29-2015, 05:54 PM
  #1738  
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Originally Posted by rslstft
Ted,
I used 4 servos for the gear doors also and used the sequencer built into the DX-18 to operate them individually and incorporated the retract (air) valve also. I had used a Spektrum 12120 12 channel receiver with the X plus expander. It WAS a little confusing at first setting up the sequencer, but what I did was set up the receiver on a table, connected 5 servos (4 for the doors and 1 for the valve) and just played with the sequencer until I saw how it all functioned. Nice as you can adjust the direction, travel, and timing of each of the doors and valve. Once installed in the aircraft, it all worked perfectly and haven't adjusted it since. Word of advice, I used nylon geared servos at first and the large surface area of the door and wind blast stripped 1 servo, so I replaced them with metal gear servos.
Reason for so many channels, is the customer wanted all the bells and whistles on his plane, lights, bomb drops, gyro, etc. Used 17 channels, but everthing is individually adjustable which you cannot do using Y-harnesses. There will be those that say I'm wrong, but I refuse to use Y-harnesses as I have seen a number of them fail (ESPECIALLY the reversing ones) For the amount of money invested in this aircraft, a higher channel receiver isn't that much more.
Good information - I also set up a retract door + air valve mock system to experiment with and learned a lot. My choice of receiver is also the AR12120 since it can be expanded and has provisions for 2 battery inputs. The advantages of putting each door servo on a separate channel became very apparent since all parameters can be individually adjusted without worrying about servo direction, end point, etc., and the DX 18 will make sequencing icing on the cake. I am putting a small fortune into this aircraft and will cut no corners when it comes to the electronics. I still have a long way to go before finishing the plane - but, getting the landing gear and the doors along with the control surfaces finished is a big step. I know the tail wheel doors will also be a challenge - but, gotta do it! Btw, I am using the recommended servos for the doors - they contain metal gears so should be good - AR7020's. The AR7010's have been super-ceded.

Last edited by Ted62; 03-29-2015 at 05:57 PM. Reason: spelling
Old 03-29-2015, 06:13 PM
  #1739  
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Originally Posted by camss69
What are you guys using for servos? I would like to go with HV servos and I tend to stay away from Hitec.
Can't help you out then, 95% of my servos are Hitec. Been using them for about 10 years now and have well over 50 of them; never had a problem with any of them.

Last edited by Cpig; 03-29-2015 at 06:16 PM.
Old 03-30-2015, 06:43 AM
  #1740  
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Originally Posted by Ted62
Good information - I also set up a retract door + air valve mock system to experiment with and learned a lot. My choice of receiver is also the AR12120 since it can be expanded and has provisions for 2 battery inputs. The advantages of putting each door servo on a separate channel became very apparent since all parameters can be individually adjusted without worrying about servo direction, end point, etc., and the DX 18 will make sequencing icing on the cake. I am putting a small fortune into this aircraft and will cut no corners when it comes to the electronics. I still have a long way to go before finishing the plane - but, getting the landing gear and the doors along with the control surfaces finished is a big step. I know the tail wheel doors will also be a challenge - but, gotta do it! Btw, I am using the recommended servos for the doors - they contain metal gears so should be good - AR7020's. The AR7010's have been super-ceded.
rslstft and Ted,

Are both of you using the AR7020's? Have you noticed strange flutter on the servos at all? I have a servo tester and when quickly opening the gear doors they flutter like crazy in the opening position, as well as through the main receiver and trying to operate them linearly through the transmitter. They haven't shown any signs of flutter at all as long as I have them on a switch/sequencer just giving the command "full open, full close". I've read in another thread where these servos were used and caused an amp overload and crashed the plane - in that case however they were used on a large glider as flap servos with potentially the travel too far, but the guy did mention the fluttering I saw.

Rslsft, any issues at all since switching servos? I'm thinking of re-enforcing the back of the doors a little with some thin balsa as well as they seem like they could be a little flimsy and cause some oscillation. Might help things to give them a bit more weight as well to fight the wind on their own.
Old 03-30-2015, 06:51 AM
  #1741  
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Thought I'd post some photos of my build earlier on in the process. I'll post some pictures of the finished plane a bit later on as I'm still not finished. Have a bunch of touch-up/final little things left to do like painting inside the gear doors, cowling installation, paint the ignition door hatch (not seen in these pics), mount the canopy and mark/tidy all extension leads etc. Almost there! One thing I didn't do even though I did make the main gear doors operational, was to forego the tail gear doors. IMO it became just another point of fuss and potential failure while flapping around in the wind, plus with how I store and move the plane I often put pressure on the tail of the plane around/over the area where the tail gear is and by keeping the tail gear cover in 1 piece it provides some extra rigidity in the area. Also saves a little weight in the tail in comparison to adding functional gear doors. Main gear doors were enough for me!

Couple things done a little different from suggestions/instructions in the manual which seem to work out better such as the outer gear door servo mounting method, and hinging of the strut cover panels etc. as well as I've seen a few others do, in cutting a hole in the centre wing section. I've made a nice tray in the cutout which is an excellent place to keep the Robart electronic gear actuator box and coil up the leads, as well as in my configuration mounting a G370A MEMS gyro in there for the ailerons. Also adds more of the weight upfront vs. in the back that you'll need, so hopefully when all is said and done no extra weight is needed with the EVO7-777 up front on CDI. Now watch... I'll need some tail weight! haha

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Last edited by chorner; 03-30-2015 at 07:04 AM.
Old 03-30-2015, 07:06 AM
  #1742  
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I also have a DX18 Gen 2, and 12020. I use all Hitec HV, Digital, programable, metal gear servos and have no jitter or Dead band problems.
Old 03-30-2015, 10:03 AM
  #1743  
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Originally Posted by chorner
Thought I'd post some photos of my build earlier on in the process. I'll post some pictures of the finished plane a bit later on as I'm still not finished. Have a bunch of touch-up/final little things left to do like painting inside the gear doors, cowling installation, paint the ignition door hatch (not seen in these pics), mount the canopy and mark/tidy all extension leads etc. Almost there! One thing I didn't do even though I did make the main gear doors operational, was to forego the tail gear doors. IMO it became just another point of fuss and potential failure while flapping around in the wind, plus with how I store and move the plane I often put pressure on the tail of the plane around/over the area where the tail gear is and by keeping the tail gear cover in 1 piece it provides some extra rigidity in the area. Also saves a little weight in the tail in comparison to adding functional gear doors. Main gear doors were enough for me!

Couple things done a little different from suggestions/instructions in the manual which seem to work out better such as the outer gear door servo mounting method, and hinging of the strut cover panels etc. as well as I've seen a few others do, in cutting a hole in the centre wing section. I've made a nice tray in the cutout which is an excellent place to keep the Robart electronic gear actuator box and coil up the leads, as well as in my configuration mounting a G370A MEMS gyro in there for the ailerons. Also adds more of the weight upfront vs. in the back that you'll need, so hopefully when all is said and done no extra weight is needed with the EVO7-777 up front on CDI. Now watch... I'll need some tail weight! haha
What hinges are those on the gear doors, center cover as well as the two side covers?
Old 03-30-2015, 10:06 AM
  #1744  
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When I purchased my plane from Fred C. it came with a pint of blue and a pint of catalyst. He had it specially made for the plane to match exactly. I am changing color schemes and no longer need it, but don't want to throw it out. If there is anyone interested in the paint, let me know and we can work something out (close by delivery is free, sending to China isn't). I am sure I can figure this out.

Andy
Old 03-30-2015, 11:02 AM
  #1745  
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Chorner,
I used different servos than the manual recommended. I used Spektrum A5040 servos. A little bigger, but the outer one fits into the opening on the wing panel when you slide it on, so no issues there. As far as flutter, they just seemed a little jerky when opening or closing, but I also had them slowed way down via servo speed on the transmitter, so that might of had something to do with it. I don't think he's (my customer) had any problems with the doors as I'm sure I would have heard about it from him. I didn't do any reinforcing of the doors at all, just CAREFULLY heated them with a hot air gun to get them to conform to the shape of the wing.
Old 03-30-2015, 06:55 PM
  #1746  
Zeeb
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Originally Posted by mirored
When I purchased my plane from Fred C. it came with a pint of blue and a pint of catalyst. He had it specially made for the plane to match exactly. I am changing color schemes and no longer need it, but don't want to throw it out. If there is anyone interested in the paint, let me know and we can work something out (close by delivery is free, sending to China isn't). I am sure I can figure this out.

Andy
PM sent
Old 03-31-2015, 01:45 PM
  #1747  
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David Eichstedt
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Old 03-31-2015, 05:09 PM
  #1748  
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Originally Posted by mirored
The ends of the control surfaces, I added balsa and shaped/sanded to match the adjacent piece. I will be covering it with fiberglass to match the rest of the plane that I have fully covered in fiberglass. As for the surfaces, that is fiberglass, sanded and spot putty from car finish that fills any imperfections. Next is primer, sanded, then paint.
If you haven't tried it already, I'd suggest you try rolling on automotive 2k (primer and catalyst) primer. I've been using Dupli-Color or Rustoleum spray can hi-build primer over my fiberglass... up until now. Just picked up a quart of automotive 2k primer from Sherwin-Williams (part no. 410 w/ 411 catalyst). Used a $2 roller and miniature pan from Home Depot to roll on 2 coats. Wow! what a difference over the spray cans! The roller filled ALL of the weave (always had quite a few bubbles with spray can). Also built up thicker... and biggest difference was the ease of sandability. Began sanding 45 mins after application and sandpaper did not clog up like with spay can primer. Went so much faster and easier; I'm through with spray can primer.
Old 03-31-2015, 07:46 PM
  #1749  
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Originally Posted by mirored
What hinges are those on the gear doors, center cover as well as the two side covers?
They are all Sonic Tronics hinges (http://www.sonictronics.com/xcart/pr...tid=16168&js=n). Found these worked better and didn't leave an ugly gap while hinging the strut cover doors versus the supplied butterfly type hinges; they are recommended for the main gear doors by Hangar 9 at least anyhow
Old 03-31-2015, 07:57 PM
  #1750  
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Originally Posted by mirored
What hinges are those on the gear doors, center cover as well as the two side covers?
They are all Sonic Tronics hinges (http://www.sonictronics.com/xcart/pr...tid=16168&js=n). Found these worked better and didn't leave an ugly gap while hinging the strut cover doors versus the supplied butterfly type hinges; they are recommended for the main gear doors by Hangar 9 at least anyhow

p.s- your flaps look good so far. Got them, finished yet?

Last edited by chorner; 03-31-2015 at 08:07 PM.


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