Hangar 9 60cc Corsair
03-20-2015, 07:43 PM
#1703
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Oak Brook, IL
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H9 Corsair / Evo 7-77 Gas Ignition
Hi All...
Finished getting the Evo mounted, throttle linkage hooked up and adjusted, and the ignition module mounted. I mounted the module on a 1/8" lite-ply plate positioned over the fire wall box, and fabricated a .032" aluminum heat shield on of some sheet stock I had on hand. I also used some 7/8" dia, grommets the route the plug leads through without chaffing.
i radiused the heat shield to fit under the cowl, and cut out two notches to clear the cowl mounting lugs. The cowl slips on and off with very little effort. The plug leads are bundled together with wire ties to keep things tidy.
Bob
Finished getting the Evo mounted, throttle linkage hooked up and adjusted, and the ignition module mounted. I mounted the module on a 1/8" lite-ply plate positioned over the fire wall box, and fabricated a .032" aluminum heat shield on of some sheet stock I had on hand. I also used some 7/8" dia, grommets the route the plug leads through without chaffing.
i radiused the heat shield to fit under the cowl, and cut out two notches to clear the cowl mounting lugs. The cowl slips on and off with very little effort. The plug leads are bundled together with wire ties to keep things tidy.
Bob
03-21-2015, 02:31 PM
#1705
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Oak Brook, IL
Posts: 79
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H9 Corsair / Evo 7-77 Throttle Linkage (For Saito FG-84 Carb)
Hello All...
More details on the carb linkage I used. Mounted the throttle servo in the stock location on the fire wall box, and used a reverse bell crank lever to get back to the carb. I also rotated The carb so that the high / low needle adjustment ports face straight down, next to the exhaust ring outlet. This will also facilitate mounting and locating the adjustment chases for the needles, as well as the 3mm choke pull rod.
when I get the adjustment chases installed, I'll post photos of that as well.
Bob
More details on the carb linkage I used. Mounted the throttle servo in the stock location on the fire wall box, and used a reverse bell crank lever to get back to the carb. I also rotated The carb so that the high / low needle adjustment ports face straight down, next to the exhaust ring outlet. This will also facilitate mounting and locating the adjustment chases for the needles, as well as the 3mm choke pull rod.
when I get the adjustment chases installed, I'll post photos of that as well.
Bob
03-22-2015, 05:02 AM
#1706
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Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: vancouver, BC, CANADA
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well just finished the h9 60cc corsair . this is by far one of the most nicest arfs i have built . but one thing i didnt like is with a da 50 i hade to ad a little over 5 pounds of nose weight and thats balancing it at 5 inches back from leading edge . does this seam right to u guys ? JUST WONDERING WITH ALL THAT WEIGHT HANGING OFF THE COWL AND MOTOR BOX IF ITS A GOOD IDEA . ANY THOUGHTS?
03-22-2015, 07:08 AM
#1708
well just finished the h9 60cc corsair . this is by far one of the most nicest arfs i have built . but one thing i didnt like is with a da 50 i hade to ad a little over 5 pounds of nose weight and thats balancing it at 5 inches back from leading edge . does this seam right to u guys ? JUST WONDERING WITH ALL THAT WEIGHT HANGING OFF THE COWL AND MOTOR BOX IF ITS A GOOD IDEA . ANY THOUGHTS?
03-22-2015, 07:11 AM
#1709
Am I the only one who noticed that the assembly manual that I received with my plane is different then the one we can download from the Horizon web site? The printed version I have is missing at least one step (step 16) in the flap installation section and seems to be numbered differently (pages).
Toddd
Toddd
03-22-2015, 06:40 PM
#1712
Ron,
Test mounted the EME 70 on a template, positioned it on firewall. Plugs and ignition caps will protrude. So it's either make some holes or use a DLE 55 I have and add 4-5 pounds of lead. I've got the electric start on the EME 70. Will consider it for awhile but I'm leaning towards going ugly and using the bigger engine.
Test mounted the EME 70 on a template, positioned it on firewall. Plugs and ignition caps will protrude. So it's either make some holes or use a DLE 55 I have and add 4-5 pounds of lead. I've got the electric start on the EME 70. Will consider it for awhile but I'm leaning towards going ugly and using the bigger engine.
Did you go with the EME-70? If so can you post a pic of how much is sticking out? I'm considering that engine myself.
03-23-2015, 07:26 AM
#1713
My Feedback: (1)
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Cincinnati, OH
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Ron,
I have the engine mounted and am getting the courage up to start removing some cowl. Only one side is an issue and doesn't look like it will require very much trimming so pictures coming.
In the meantime I am getting ready to cut the tail wheel door in half. For the mains I used a straight edge and a new xacto blade but still managed to chip some of the surface. Anyone have suggestions on the best way to cut the plastic?
Don
I have the engine mounted and am getting the courage up to start removing some cowl. Only one side is an issue and doesn't look like it will require very much trimming so pictures coming.
In the meantime I am getting ready to cut the tail wheel door in half. For the mains I used a straight edge and a new xacto blade but still managed to chip some of the surface. Anyone have suggestions on the best way to cut the plastic?
Don
Hard to get it perfect, but I had 2 out of 3 come out nicely.
03-23-2015, 12:27 PM
#1715
My Feedback: (1)
I could look back to make sure I give credits to the right person, but you know who you are. Someone mentioned the inordinate gaps in the flaps and ailerons. That prompted me to check mine since I have it all stripped down and surfaces removed for fiberglassing and painting. Wow, I didn't recall them being that bad, but they were. I fixed one side and it came out very nice. Now to take care of the other side. It looks so much better when it's fixed.
03-23-2015, 03:04 PM
#1716
I could look back to make sure I give credits to the right person, but you know who you are. Someone mentioned the inordinate gaps in the flaps and ailerons. That prompted me to check mine since I have it all stripped down and surfaces removed for fiberglassing and painting. Wow, I didn't recall them being that bad, but they were. I fixed one side and it came out very nice. Now to take care of the other side. It looks so much better when it's fixed.
03-23-2015, 07:48 PM
#1719
03-24-2015, 05:17 AM
#1720
On mine all I needed to do was do a few trial "dry" fits, and I did have to re-align the hinge holes slightly in a couple cases but for me at least there was no need to add any balsa to any of the individual flaps. Perhaps not all runs are the same (well, I know they aren't... I had a different issue in that the outer flap panel on the right side -the balsa flap- was warped out of the box) but the fibreglass ones should all be pretty close to each other across kits. Before adding balsa etc. I would check they are the same size right to left, and just work on your hinge holes on the trailing edge of the wing/centre section.
One of the things I did on mine to tighten up and get the tips of the flaps "dead on" in terms of lining up horizontally, was to cut thing pieces of solid card stock (or, pieces of glossed servo extension package labels) and you can put a thin even coat of CA to prevent wear. These go on either the underside or top of the metal flap "fingers" depending on whether you need to raise or lower the joining flap a little bit. They tell you in the manual to build up the pocket of the flap with CA, but that's a load of BS. You'd be there for a week trying to mess around like that with the amount mine were off.
One of the things I did on mine to tighten up and get the tips of the flaps "dead on" in terms of lining up horizontally, was to cut thing pieces of solid card stock (or, pieces of glossed servo extension package labels) and you can put a thin even coat of CA to prevent wear. These go on either the underside or top of the metal flap "fingers" depending on whether you need to raise or lower the joining flap a little bit. They tell you in the manual to build up the pocket of the flap with CA, but that's a load of BS. You'd be there for a week trying to mess around like that with the amount mine were off.
03-24-2015, 06:54 AM
#1721
My Feedback: (1)
On mine all I needed to do was do a few trial "dry" fits, and I did have to re-align the hinge holes slightly in a couple cases but for me at least there was no need to add any balsa to any of the individual flaps. Perhaps not all runs are the same (well, I know they aren't... I had a different issue in that the outer flap panel on the right side -the balsa flap- was warped out of the box) but the fibreglass ones should all be pretty close to each other across kits. Before adding balsa etc. I would check they are the same size right to left, and just work on your hinge holes on the trailing edge of the wing/centre section.
One of the things I did on mine to tighten up and get the tips of the flaps "dead on" in terms of lining up horizontally, was to cut thing pieces of solid card stock (or, pieces of glossed servo extension package labels) and you can put a thin even coat of CA to prevent wear. These go on either the underside or top of the metal flap "fingers" depending on whether you need to raise or lower the joining flap a little bit. They tell you in the manual to build up the pocket of the flap with CA, but that's a load of BS. You'd be there for a week trying to mess around like that with the amount mine were off.
One of the things I did on mine to tighten up and get the tips of the flaps "dead on" in terms of lining up horizontally, was to cut thing pieces of solid card stock (or, pieces of glossed servo extension package labels) and you can put a thin even coat of CA to prevent wear. These go on either the underside or top of the metal flap "fingers" depending on whether you need to raise or lower the joining flap a little bit. They tell you in the manual to build up the pocket of the flap with CA, but that's a load of BS. You'd be there for a week trying to mess around like that with the amount mine were off.
03-24-2015, 10:04 PM
#1722
I ordered one of these today, this seems to be the best thread going on this plane I can find online.
I've wanted this plane since it was announced and finally had a little spare hobby money and decided it was time to jump in. (And it was finally in stock!)
The big decisions are the Evo or the Saito radial... I'm leaning towards the Saito, and pneumatic or electric retracts...
I won't get the plane until next week so that will give me plenty of time for figure out what's going to go in it.
Pretty excited to get started..
I've wanted this plane since it was announced and finally had a little spare hobby money and decided it was time to jump in. (And it was finally in stock!)
The big decisions are the Evo or the Saito radial... I'm leaning towards the Saito, and pneumatic or electric retracts...
I won't get the plane until next week so that will give me plenty of time for figure out what's going to go in it.
Pretty excited to get started..
Last edited by camss69; 03-24-2015 at 10:07 PM.
03-25-2015, 07:12 AM
#1723
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: ADDLESTONESURREY, UNITED KINGDOM
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Hi Alf.
I have some more temp readings for you,IR dot was aimed at the top of the cyl heads,just fwd of the plug caps ( very small area and un-finned )................does not take too much to move the dot of the target area,being that small !!! so readings are,what I will call "approximate"
Fuel mix this time was 20:1 and the 7-77 has now had over 1hour of continuous running on petrol.
Ambient temp was 9 degrees C,air pressure 1012 mbar
Un-Cowled readings
4500 RPM held for 5 minutes..............cylinder head temp ( on top ) 58 to 74 degrees C
1600 RPM held for 5 minutes..............cylinder head temp ( on top ) 28 to 34 degrees C
Not the best of feelings to be that close to a prop turning at those RPM's ...........!!!!
Plenty of burnt oil in exhaust..............7-77 feels nice and "silky" still after the runs.
After quite a bit of priming,to get the fuel up to the carb ( as the carb and tank are always run dry ),started quite easily by hand.............
I'm sure "Bob" may be able to get some of his temp readings up on the thread soon.............?
Kind regards..................Nick (UK)
I have some more temp readings for you,IR dot was aimed at the top of the cyl heads,just fwd of the plug caps ( very small area and un-finned )................does not take too much to move the dot of the target area,being that small !!! so readings are,what I will call "approximate"
Fuel mix this time was 20:1 and the 7-77 has now had over 1hour of continuous running on petrol.
Ambient temp was 9 degrees C,air pressure 1012 mbar
Un-Cowled readings
4500 RPM held for 5 minutes..............cylinder head temp ( on top ) 58 to 74 degrees C
1600 RPM held for 5 minutes..............cylinder head temp ( on top ) 28 to 34 degrees C
Not the best of feelings to be that close to a prop turning at those RPM's ...........!!!!
Plenty of burnt oil in exhaust..............7-77 feels nice and "silky" still after the runs.
After quite a bit of priming,to get the fuel up to the carb ( as the carb and tank are always run dry ),started quite easily by hand.............
I'm sure "Bob" may be able to get some of his temp readings up on the thread soon.............?
Kind regards..................Nick (UK)
03-27-2015, 01:52 AM
#1725
My Feedback: (1)
On mine all I needed to do was do a few trial "dry" fits, and I did have to re-align the hinge holes slightly in a couple cases but for me at least there was no need to add any balsa to any of the individual flaps. Perhaps not all runs are the same (well, I know they aren't... I had a different issue in that the outer flap panel on the right side -the balsa flap- was warped out of the box) but the fibreglass ones should all be pretty close to each other across kits. Before adding balsa etc. I would check they are the same size right to left, and just work on your hinge holes on the trailing edge of the wing/centre section.
One of the things I did on mine to tighten up and get the tips of the flaps "dead on" in terms of lining up horizontally, was to cut thing pieces of solid card stock (or, pieces of glossed servo extension package labels) and you can put a thin even coat of CA to prevent wear. These go on either the underside or top of the metal flap "fingers" depending on whether you need to raise or lower the joining flap a little bit. They tell you in the manual to build up the pocket of the flap with CA, but that's a load of BS. You'd be there for a week trying to mess around like that with the amount mine were off.
One of the things I did on mine to tighten up and get the tips of the flaps "dead on" in terms of lining up horizontally, was to cut thing pieces of solid card stock (or, pieces of glossed servo extension package labels) and you can put a thin even coat of CA to prevent wear. These go on either the underside or top of the metal flap "fingers" depending on whether you need to raise or lower the joining flap a little bit. They tell you in the manual to build up the pocket of the flap with CA, but that's a load of BS. You'd be there for a week trying to mess around like that with the amount mine were off.