TF 1/5 Scale P-51 ARF Assembly (1ST MISHAP!!!)
#351
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G-62
There is a lot of great information on this thread. I too plan to use my G-62 in my ARF P-51. I purchased the B&B prop hub extension and the B&B carburetor block which moves the carb 1/2 inch closer to the engine. The prop hub extension makes the engine the perfect length to mount directly to the firewall without spacers. Everything should fit quite nicely without butchering the cowl. As for exhaust, I will use a small header and plum the exhaust to J-Tec stacks with flexible aluminum tubing. I will attempt to cant the engine a little to help to eliminate a need for holes in the side of the cowl. All my preliminary figures seem to be right, but it all remains to be seen. I'll post my progress here as it comes along.
#352
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RE: nice picture
Yo Fly_Aerobatic! Any feedback on the Aerotech sliding canopy/frame. How's it fit on the TF?
Are you planning to make it open remotely? How are you going to accomplish that? Flyboy1950
Are you planning to make it open remotely? How are you going to accomplish that? Flyboy1950
#354
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RE: nice picture
Yeah, I checked Towers website and it shows both the US 41 and US 35 as discontinued. I also checked the US Engines website but it didn't say anything. Is US Engines going out of business or did Tower just discontinue carrying the US Engines line of products?
#356
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RE: nice picture
Bobh,
How does your kit built TF P51 fly with the G45? How much cowl cutting did you have to do with this engine? How much does your weigh all up?
I am currently trying to decide on an engine and this is one that I am seriously considering, so I am curious as to your experiences with this combination.
Thanks,
Bob Houin
How does your kit built TF P51 fly with the G45? How much cowl cutting did you have to do with this engine? How much does your weigh all up?
I am currently trying to decide on an engine and this is one that I am seriously considering, so I am curious as to your experiences with this combination.
Thanks,
Bob Houin
#357
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RE: nice picture
Bob, the G-45 requires hacking the cowl pretty much. The carb extends out one side and the muffler on the other. I built the plane for flying and not for scale so I wasn't too concerned about the engine. I did change the profile of the front of the plane to closer match that of the full size mustang. The kit nose is ugly and way out of shape. I never weighted this plane but some where in the range of #20 or so would be about right. The plane flies well with this combo. Not as fast as one with a G-62 but fast enough. Here's a few pics of my plane. Hope it gives you some idea of the nose/engine look. BobH.
#361
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RE: RE: nice picture
Gunny, somewhere up in the front of this post I have whose wheels those are. they are near perfect scale an 50% the cost of everybodies elses wheel. I think the company is Aerotech, I forgot and you will have to look.
PS: Yes, Aerotech, here you go. Aerotech Models (612-721-1285, www.aerotechmodels.com) for $95/pr, they are cheaper by half of anything else I've found. Size is 4-7/8 x 1.5".
PS: Yes, Aerotech, here you go. Aerotech Models (612-721-1285, www.aerotechmodels.com) for $95/pr, they are cheaper by half of anything else I've found. Size is 4-7/8 x 1.5".
#362
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RE: RE: nice picture
Yes the wheels are Aerotech and don't they look great! Thanks to my buddy Splas, I will have installed four sets of these wheels when I finish the forth Mustang. They have a bronze bushings and spin forever. I really love the looks of these wheels. The gear is Sierra Precision products. used the Robart tail wheel retract unit due to the fact the model is designed around this unit, and would take a lot of modification to change.
Also I have attached a photo of how I mount the gear door to the strut. This can be done on Robart gear. I do exactly as described in the manual with one addition. I make straps out of 1/16th" brass strip, 1/4" wide. I form it around the strut and fasten it to the wood block with wood screws. I also put a piece of light ply the same thickness and width as the other two across the bottom of the gear door to add regidity. The blocks are glued to the strut. The door is glued and screwed to the wood block. I hope this helps.
Also I have attached a photo of how I mount the gear door to the strut. This can be done on Robart gear. I do exactly as described in the manual with one addition. I make straps out of 1/16th" brass strip, 1/4" wide. I form it around the strut and fasten it to the wood block with wood screws. I also put a piece of light ply the same thickness and width as the other two across the bottom of the gear door to add regidity. The blocks are glued to the strut. The door is glued and screwed to the wood block. I hope this helps.
#363
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RE: RE: nice picture
#3 is now finished save balancing. I will do that in the spring.
Props are out in the trailer and its to cold to go out there. The gun powder trails were accomplished using model masters flat enamals. I mixed flat brown, yellow, flat black and flat white to get the corect color. I then thinned it 50% and shot it on with an airbrush with 15# of air pressure. I use a testors internal mix brush and a air compressor I bought from Harbor Freight.
Props are out in the trailer and its to cold to go out there. The gun powder trails were accomplished using model masters flat enamals. I mixed flat brown, yellow, flat black and flat white to get the corect color. I then thinned it 50% and shot it on with an airbrush with 15# of air pressure. I use a testors internal mix brush and a air compressor I bought from Harbor Freight.
#366
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RE: RE: RE: nice picture
Yes they are the stock doors. I just added a piece of wood across the bottom to tie the other two pieces together at the bottom. On the two previous ones we used a piece of 1/16" aluminum from the lower block down the center to stiffen them up. Due to me using a lessor engine, US41 vs ZDZ40, I was trying to save a little weight. Won't know if it works till I fly it, and that will be about two months away from the looks of the weather around here. I do not fly in the cold!
#368
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RE: RE: RE: nice picture
You're welcome. Best deal out there. All the others are rip-offs. I got my bird out of repair and the new reinforced landing gear seem to be holding up great. Missed the runway the other day and landed in the dirt. No problem. This bird is so fun to fly and watch. The only thing I have changed much over the course of flying is to program in about 10% up elevator when I actuate the gear. I'm still fine tuning it, but works great. The flaps seem to cause no trim changes at all. The DA50/Slimline Pitts combination sounds Soooo cool; nice and throaty sound.
#369
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RE: RE: RE: nice picture
I just bought the ARF and would like to see comments on if to use the existing cockpit or buy/build another one that might be more scale. Also can you fit a complete body scale pilot into the airplane?
#370
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RE: RE: RE: nice picture
Splais,
I love this sight. I posted a reply a couple of weeks ago. I purchased the Aerotech cockpit
kit, accessories and wheels. I have also mounted a ZDZ 60, and mocked up (green foam) an internal muffler system. Karl Reinbold (Bold Mufflers) and I are working on producing this muffler system, with his working stacks.
I also am using a 24 X 6 Zinger 4 blade prop. I have attached the pics of where I am to date.
I am looking forward to panel lining, rivoting (pro mark graphics) and airbrushing the finish,
I love this sight. I posted a reply a couple of weeks ago. I purchased the Aerotech cockpit
kit, accessories and wheels. I have also mounted a ZDZ 60, and mocked up (green foam) an internal muffler system. Karl Reinbold (Bold Mufflers) and I are working on producing this muffler system, with his working stacks.
I also am using a 24 X 6 Zinger 4 blade prop. I have attached the pics of where I am to date.
I am looking forward to panel lining, rivoting (pro mark graphics) and airbrushing the finish,
#372
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RE: RE: RE: nice picture
It's also very expensive.
Flyinrain: it depends on what you want. You really can't see any of the cockpit detail unless you really look. Most of it sits down to far to notice. You can fix up the stock cockpit pretty nice. I have a full-body 1/5 scale Elite Forces pilot in mine; but you got to cut his legs off at the knees. I have a lot more pics over in the User Product Reviews forum write-up I did. I got to admit I was really tempted to go all out on trying to scale it out. But unfortunitely I got one of the very first planes and it probably has the worst covering job ever done. Because of this sanity set in just in time. It also gets very expensive, real fast. You may have noticed my cost list in the writeup or above someplace (something like $3200).
Flyinrain: it depends on what you want. You really can't see any of the cockpit detail unless you really look. Most of it sits down to far to notice. You can fix up the stock cockpit pretty nice. I have a full-body 1/5 scale Elite Forces pilot in mine; but you got to cut his legs off at the knees. I have a lot more pics over in the User Product Reviews forum write-up I did. I got to admit I was really tempted to go all out on trying to scale it out. But unfortunitely I got one of the very first planes and it probably has the worst covering job ever done. Because of this sanity set in just in time. It also gets very expensive, real fast. You may have noticed my cost list in the writeup or above someplace (something like $3200).
#373
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RE: RE: RE: nice picture
If you really want a scale cockpit go to DBALSA.COM they have pictures posted but be ready to spend around $ 125.00. If you want to fit a full size pilot with legs you have to do modifications to the former ( Moves the seat back 1 1/2 inches ) and servo relocation all parts included in the dbalsa.com kit Very Nice. Lots of detail and nice hood. Also intensive instruction with pics and floppy disks. will post pics when finished.