Ziroli 92" p-47 build thread
08-08-2015, 09:07 AM
#77
Yo Scott,
Hard to believe football practice is here, already! Being from Ohio, there's little doubt about whom I'm rooting for!
=====================
Wing (cont)
Glued up the bottom sheeting (same as top, obviously!).
Guns:
Used some 3/8" diameter aluminum tubing with drilled/tapped rod forced into one end so the guns can be screwed onto the wing and, hopefully, prevent hanger rash! Guns an inch apart and parallel to the horizon. Lucked out with the LE 1/8" thick aircraft ply being just past where the guns are located. Drilled/tapped/glued the 4/40 bolts into the LE. Removable guns will also make it a lot easier to get a nice LE finish. Little stuff like this takes all morning to complete, especially when one of the bolts in located under the gear mount!
Hard to believe football practice is here, already! Being from Ohio, there's little doubt about whom I'm rooting for!
=====================
Wing (cont)
Glued up the bottom sheeting (same as top, obviously!).
Guns:
Used some 3/8" diameter aluminum tubing with drilled/tapped rod forced into one end so the guns can be screwed onto the wing and, hopefully, prevent hanger rash! Guns an inch apart and parallel to the horizon. Lucked out with the LE 1/8" thick aircraft ply being just past where the guns are located. Drilled/tapped/glued the 4/40 bolts into the LE. Removable guns will also make it a lot easier to get a nice LE finish. Little stuff like this takes all morning to complete, especially when one of the bolts in located under the gear mount!
Last edited by samparfitt; 08-08-2015 at 09:28 AM.
08-08-2015, 03:39 PM
#78
wing (cont)
gear area:
I used Brian's clear plastic for making a template of the gear doors from the plans and used it to cut 1/8" thick ply to make supports for the bottom sheeting and doors.
Since the gear is above the bottom of the ribs, balsa strips were glued to the ribs, tapering from the ribs around the wheel up to 1/4" thick by the trunion and then tapering back down a few ribs past the gear mount.
gear area:
I used Brian's clear plastic for making a template of the gear doors from the plans and used it to cut 1/8" thick ply to make supports for the bottom sheeting and doors.
Since the gear is above the bottom of the ribs, balsa strips were glued to the ribs, tapering from the ribs around the wheel up to 1/4" thick by the trunion and then tapering back down a few ribs past the gear mount.
08-10-2015, 12:51 PM
#80
Wing (cont)
Gear area:
Sanded all the pieces of balsa and ply for a smooth transition to the 'normal' rib shapes.
Cut the bottom sheeting to a close approximation to the wing, including marking out the gear door and servo hatch outlines for later removal.
CF sheeting will be used for the gear doors.
Left landing light.
Boxed in an area for the landing light housing assembly. Will be making a separate box to house the landing light so it can be easily maintained by being removable.
This thick slow CA works nice for installing the ply sheer webbing and building up the areas around the gear doors. Just need to put some on the piece and then hold it in place for a few seconds and it's cured.
Gear area:
Sanded all the pieces of balsa and ply for a smooth transition to the 'normal' rib shapes.
Cut the bottom sheeting to a close approximation to the wing, including marking out the gear door and servo hatch outlines for later removal.
CF sheeting will be used for the gear doors.
Left landing light.
Boxed in an area for the landing light housing assembly. Will be making a separate box to house the landing light so it can be easily maintained by being removable.
This thick slow CA works nice for installing the ply sheer webbing and building up the areas around the gear doors. Just need to put some on the piece and then hold it in place for a few seconds and it's cured.
Last edited by samparfitt; 08-10-2015 at 12:53 PM.
09-07-2015, 03:47 PM
#88
This is great, i love the build log. Perfect timing too, i just picked up a complete ziroli p47 kit with canopy and cowl. One question tho. Is there an advantage to glassing the bird, or will prime and paint suffice? Cant wait for more updates. Looks awesome man.
09-07-2015, 07:38 PM
#89
Glassing the structure greatly increases it's strength.
Also, it prevents a lot of hanger rash.
I don't think primer would ever fill in all the wood grain and monokoting a warbird should result in an immediate horse whipping!
Also, it prevents a lot of hanger rash.
I don't think primer would ever fill in all the wood grain and monokoting a warbird should result in an immediate horse whipping!
Last edited by samparfitt; 09-07-2015 at 07:41 PM.
09-08-2015, 04:47 AM
#90
09-09-2015, 03:23 PM
#91
Monokote wasnt even a thought. I just didnt know if other kit builders filled the grain, then prime and paint. I kinda figured glassing added some strength. Appreciate the input. Cant wait for more updates
05-12-2017, 05:45 AM
#92
FINALLY! Back to this build!
Well, it's warm enough to use the detached shop again so I cleaned it up, put up the build table and brought all the P-47 parts out to the shop.
Tail feathers.
These were the last parts, yet, to be built.
All the parts were already cut from last year. Had to use the heater gun to remove the paper templates from the balsa cutouts and also to separate the multiple cut parts.
Stab:
Followed the plans on assembling the stab except I used a 1/4" thick aircraft ply for the stab TE connector.
I'll be putting the servos in the stab so I drilled some holes in the inner ribs for wire routing.
About 3 of the ribs on each side have risers on them to keep the stab flat. These and the TE were glued first and then the LE was glued on and then the remaining ribs were glued in. Wing tip fillers were then glued on and then the spars put in. Weight, constantly, put on the stab while gluing up parts to insure the stab remains perfectly flat.
Elevator.
The elevator TE parts were first glued on a flat surface and then glued vertically to the LE.
Sheeting:
Taped and glued 4 sheets of 1/16" balsa for the stab covering.
Well, I was going to post pictures but the 'image' option only shows URL instead of my PC so no pictures, and until I can post pictures, no more posts.
Finally figured out pictures: not sure why one has to go to advanced editing and then make another selection to post pictures. The option 'image' used to allow selection or URL of your PC. I usually thought web sites would get more user friendly!
Not too happy with this site: click on the pictures and the option to go to the next picture is no longer available. Probably another hidden option to find!
Well, it's warm enough to use the detached shop again so I cleaned it up, put up the build table and brought all the P-47 parts out to the shop.
Tail feathers.
These were the last parts, yet, to be built.
All the parts were already cut from last year. Had to use the heater gun to remove the paper templates from the balsa cutouts and also to separate the multiple cut parts.
Stab:
Followed the plans on assembling the stab except I used a 1/4" thick aircraft ply for the stab TE connector.
I'll be putting the servos in the stab so I drilled some holes in the inner ribs for wire routing.
About 3 of the ribs on each side have risers on them to keep the stab flat. These and the TE were glued first and then the LE was glued on and then the remaining ribs were glued in. Wing tip fillers were then glued on and then the spars put in. Weight, constantly, put on the stab while gluing up parts to insure the stab remains perfectly flat.
Elevator.
The elevator TE parts were first glued on a flat surface and then glued vertically to the LE.
Sheeting:
Taped and glued 4 sheets of 1/16" balsa for the stab covering.
Well, I was going to post pictures but the 'image' option only shows URL instead of my PC so no pictures, and until I can post pictures, no more posts.
Finally figured out pictures: not sure why one has to go to advanced editing and then make another selection to post pictures. The option 'image' used to allow selection or URL of your PC. I usually thought web sites would get more user friendly!
Not too happy with this site: click on the pictures and the option to go to the next picture is no longer available. Probably another hidden option to find!
Last edited by samparfitt; 05-12-2017 at 05:59 AM.
05-13-2017, 02:41 PM
#93
Tail feathers (cont)
Elevators:
After gluing the TE on a flat surface, the TE was then glued to the LE. All the end balsa filler blocks were, then added.
The ribs are made from scrap balsa.
Two belt sanders were used to contour the elevators. Care is needed as the quick removal of soft balsa by these fast moving belt sanders allows you to make a mistake MUCH faster.
Also, I find using epoxy to glue up the ribs to the LE/TE (as well as the stab) makes them more durable against these fast moving sanders as the ribs don't break free using the epoxy.
I wanted to post pictures after each sub title but I see the web site has made this impossible or non apparent to do (another web site makes this user friendly).
Rudder:
All but the bottom rib was epoxied to the TE while on the work table using the LE to insure all are aligned. The bottom rib was glued to the TE while attached to the fuse to get the correct angle.
The remaining parts were, then glued on and the rudder was hand sanded with some 120 grit wrapped around a paint stick.
Elevators:
After gluing the TE on a flat surface, the TE was then glued to the LE. All the end balsa filler blocks were, then added.
The ribs are made from scrap balsa.
Two belt sanders were used to contour the elevators. Care is needed as the quick removal of soft balsa by these fast moving belt sanders allows you to make a mistake MUCH faster.
Also, I find using epoxy to glue up the ribs to the LE/TE (as well as the stab) makes them more durable against these fast moving sanders as the ribs don't break free using the epoxy.
I wanted to post pictures after each sub title but I see the web site has made this impossible or non apparent to do (another web site makes this user friendly).
Rudder:
All but the bottom rib was epoxied to the TE while on the work table using the LE to insure all are aligned. The bottom rib was glued to the TE while attached to the fuse to get the correct angle.
The remaining parts were, then glued on and the rudder was hand sanded with some 120 grit wrapped around a paint stick.
Last edited by samparfitt; 05-13-2017 at 02:48 PM.
05-13-2017, 02:58 PM
#94
Tail feathers (cont)
Stab:
I used carpenters glue to glue the 1/16" thick sheeting to the top of the stab with lots of weights to insure non warpage (only good if on a star ship!).
Dry fit:
I'm glad I used some 1/4" thick aircraft ply for the TE joiner as the balsa TE has to have a notch cut into it to fit in the fuse.
I cut a piece of the fuse's last ply former in order to insert the stab.
All this is only dry fitted as all the hinge blocks, servos mounts, etc has to be mounted from the bottom of each piece and then the bottom balsa sheeting will be added.
The stab will be glassed and primed and all panel lines added before attaching to the fuse as I find this much easier to properly get a good finish on the stab and around the fuse with both parts separate.
Sheeting:
Some 1/16" sheeting glued together using masking tape to hold them together, lay one piece over edge of table, apply carpenters glue, lay flay, wet sponge off excess glue and weight down until dry.
Stab:
I used carpenters glue to glue the 1/16" thick sheeting to the top of the stab with lots of weights to insure non warpage (only good if on a star ship!).
Dry fit:
I'm glad I used some 1/4" thick aircraft ply for the TE joiner as the balsa TE has to have a notch cut into it to fit in the fuse.
I cut a piece of the fuse's last ply former in order to insert the stab.
All this is only dry fitted as all the hinge blocks, servos mounts, etc has to be mounted from the bottom of each piece and then the bottom balsa sheeting will be added.
The stab will be glassed and primed and all panel lines added before attaching to the fuse as I find this much easier to properly get a good finish on the stab and around the fuse with both parts separate.
Sheeting:
Some 1/16" sheeting glued together using masking tape to hold them together, lay one piece over edge of table, apply carpenters glue, lay flay, wet sponge off excess glue and weight down until dry.
05-14-2017, 03:11 PM
#95
Tail feathers (cont)
Hard points for hinges added to vertical fin, stab and elevator. Elevator got 1/4" thick balsa the entire LE as it will be rounded over.
HS-645's are too tall to insert vertically and wasn't enough room to put in some aluminum L brackets as the screws would have come out through the top sheeting so, using the S-2 rib template to make some half ribs for mounting the servos horizontally. Rib S-3 had to be partially cut away to install the servos. Needed to make the servo access hatches extra wide so a hex head screw driver can screw in the servo screws at a semi-horizontal position.
Hard points for hinges added to vertical fin, stab and elevator. Elevator got 1/4" thick balsa the entire LE as it will be rounded over.
HS-645's are too tall to insert vertically and wasn't enough room to put in some aluminum L brackets as the screws would have come out through the top sheeting so, using the S-2 rib template to make some half ribs for mounting the servos horizontally. Rib S-3 had to be partially cut away to install the servos. Needed to make the servo access hatches extra wide so a hex head screw driver can screw in the servo screws at a semi-horizontal position.
05-22-2017, 12:35 PM
#96
Tail feathers (cont)
Stab:
As with the top, the bottom got a full 1/16" thick sheet across the entire stab: should help make the center connection fairly strong.
Before sheeting, I made a template of the servo access hatches so they could be cut out after gluing the bottom sheeting to the stab.
Elevator got it's bottom sheeting and the rudder got one side sheeted.
To be able to round over the LE of the rudder (as with the elevators), additional balsa blocks were glued inside the LE.
Stab:
As with the top, the bottom got a full 1/16" thick sheet across the entire stab: should help make the center connection fairly strong.
Before sheeting, I made a template of the servo access hatches so they could be cut out after gluing the bottom sheeting to the stab.
Elevator got it's bottom sheeting and the rudder got one side sheeted.
To be able to round over the LE of the rudder (as with the elevators), additional balsa blocks were glued inside the LE.
05-23-2017, 03:50 PM
#97
Ailerons and rudder:
Opposite sheeting glued and sanded.
With 1/64" thick ply on the TE, one can get a nice sharp edge.
Flaps:
Bottom 3/32" thick sheeting glued with carpenters glue after cutting around the G-10 hinges and marking rib lines on inside of sheeting for 'double' gluing, ie the sheeting and the ribs
.
Opposite sheeting glued and sanded.
With 1/64" thick ply on the TE, one can get a nice sharp edge.
Flaps:
Bottom 3/32" thick sheeting glued with carpenters glue after cutting around the G-10 hinges and marking rib lines on inside of sheeting for 'double' gluing, ie the sheeting and the ribs
.
05-24-2017, 10:23 AM
#98
Attaching wing to fuse:
Made 4 hard points using some 3/4" thick cherry stock to secure the wing.
Marked center lines on the fuse formers and aligned the wing on the two lines insuring equal distance from tail (plastic thumb tack used) to each wing tip.
Also, insured that the wing was flush to the inner wing saddles.
I'm partial to 4 bolts holding the wing versus dowels at the front of the wing: Easier for me to get a nice flush fit between the fuse and wing.
Drilled one hole at a time, back right first, and tapped it for 1/4X20 bolts.
Next, did the front left side and after those were secured, could then do the two opposites at the same time.
Took awhile to get a good fit on the belly pan to the wing.
The belly pan will be removable.
Made 4 hard points using some 3/4" thick cherry stock to secure the wing.
Marked center lines on the fuse formers and aligned the wing on the two lines insuring equal distance from tail (plastic thumb tack used) to each wing tip.
Also, insured that the wing was flush to the inner wing saddles.
I'm partial to 4 bolts holding the wing versus dowels at the front of the wing: Easier for me to get a nice flush fit between the fuse and wing.
Drilled one hole at a time, back right first, and tapped it for 1/4X20 bolts.
Next, did the front left side and after those were secured, could then do the two opposites at the same time.
Took awhile to get a good fit on the belly pan to the wing.
The belly pan will be removable.
Last edited by samparfitt; 05-24-2017 at 10:25 AM.