New Giant Top Flite F6F Hellcat coming soon?
09-30-2019, 04:32 PM
#351
For comparison my latest prop on the DLE 61 is a Mejzlik 24x10 carbon prop. I’d say you could go with a 23in 3 blade and 8-10 pitch. Best advice is to buy a Vario prop and adjust it as needed on the day because as the weather changes you will notice a drop or gain in performance. Plus the prop hub with blades looks and works as good or better than the Solo.
Keep in mind the Mejzlik prop blade is like a Xoar in that it’s not too thin nor scale in profile, just efficient. Other prop makes can be a pretty thin blade which changes the load on the engine but since your interested in a scale look you have to be careful not to go with a wide blade plus the extra blade. The engine load will be too much regardless of the pitch.
I flew a guys H9 Corsair with a one piece 3 blade scale prop and it was totally the wrong prop for the engine. It was under propped and the engine had to rev high in the landing pattern, anyway, bad combo, I call that a scale victim, love the looks but not practical.
Safe to say the old timer standard goes like this;
Add a blade = lose one inch in Pitch, per blade AND one inch in Diameter
so; 24x10 2 blade is roughly equal to a 23x9x3 OR 23x8x3 (in my case, that’s what I’m flying)
If it’s adjustable you can just set it to the right static peak RPM you want and go fly. Just choose the diameter that makes sense for the 61, I believe there’s a 23in dia blade set available.
Keep in mind the Mejzlik prop blade is like a Xoar in that it’s not too thin nor scale in profile, just efficient. Other prop makes can be a pretty thin blade which changes the load on the engine but since your interested in a scale look you have to be careful not to go with a wide blade plus the extra blade. The engine load will be too much regardless of the pitch.
I flew a guys H9 Corsair with a one piece 3 blade scale prop and it was totally the wrong prop for the engine. It was under propped and the engine had to rev high in the landing pattern, anyway, bad combo, I call that a scale victim, love the looks but not practical.
Safe to say the old timer standard goes like this;
Add a blade = lose one inch in Pitch, per blade AND one inch in Diameter
so; 24x10 2 blade is roughly equal to a 23x9x3 OR 23x8x3 (in my case, that’s what I’m flying)
If it’s adjustable you can just set it to the right static peak RPM you want and go fly. Just choose the diameter that makes sense for the 61, I believe there’s a 23in dia blade set available.
11-10-2019, 04:46 AM
#360
Not sure on the Sierra Gear but the Robarts fit and line up perfectly with no modifications needed. I was impressed that they even have the blind nuts installed! I hope the rails are strong enough. Not much mounting surface. They do have triangle stock running under there but may want to see if there is anything else I can do.
12-01-2019, 12:17 PM
#363
The instructions for the lights call or a 4.8V battery. Anyone running them through the receiver with a 6.6 Life battery? Also, can you assign them to a switch? for some reason, I can assign a switch to a port but can't get the lights to turn off and on. Spektrum receiver.
12-01-2019, 12:31 PM
#365
12-01-2019, 01:14 PM
#366
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You can use a brushed micro ESC as your switch Cumming off the receiver. Basically what you're doing when you flip the switch on your radio is going from zero throttle on the ESC to Full Throttle which works like a light switch. I have it set up that way in my Hellcat.
12-01-2019, 02:30 PM
#368
You can use an 8 dollar RCXL ignition kill.
The servo bus, the positive and negative are always powered on.
The signal line is a timed pulse that varies with the position of the stick or switch associated with it, 1000ms full left, 1500ms for center, 2000ms for full right.
So you either need something to convert that switch like the aforementioned micro ESC, or gas kill switch that translates that signal to off and on, and applies the always on power when switched on and kills it when switched off.
The servo bus, the positive and negative are always powered on.
The signal line is a timed pulse that varies with the position of the stick or switch associated with it, 1000ms full left, 1500ms for center, 2000ms for full right.
So you either need something to convert that switch like the aforementioned micro ESC, or gas kill switch that translates that signal to off and on, and applies the always on power when switched on and kills it when switched off.
12-01-2019, 03:22 PM
#369
I bought this to use with a virtual channel on my Futaba 18SZ.
Hansen Hobbies - Nano Electronic Receiver Switch - V2
I have run the lights on 6 volts with no problem.
Hansen Hobbies - Nano Electronic Receiver Switch - V2
I have run the lights on 6 volts with no problem.
12-29-2019, 03:57 PM
#370
It wasn't ever available to purchase. I've checked with my LHS manager. I guess they intended for it to be, but maybe it was just a victim of the Tower Hobbies buyout and acquisition. I'm not holding my breath for it to appear anytime soon either. Booo, hiss...
12-29-2019, 04:16 PM
#371
The matching lt blue/gray covering hasn't been available since the day the F6F was released. I received my F6F early on with some damage and called Tower / Horizon customer service to get the covering . They told me way back then that it would no longer be available . Since then the other flat colors have disappeared from the market as well. It seems they never intended to make the appropriate colors available to the market.
12-29-2019, 04:21 PM
#372
Looks like I have an opportunity to set up and fly my friends Hellcat this summer. He just received it this week and is making up his mind on the engine. He might go for the UMS 75cc gas radial, I hope it fits! Otherwise I think he’s going for the Saito 60cc radial.
He said his plane shipped ok, no problems so far with the parts.
He said his plane shipped ok, no problems so far with the parts.
12-30-2019, 03:41 AM
#373
Thanks guys. I bought the dark blue to recover my hatch (I did not want any seams after cutting it out) but the blue, despite being the same part number, did not match! For the white (I made new better fitting landing gear covers without holes or that weird cutout for the door and made front doors for the mains), I bought white Monokote and wet sanded it with 400. The sheen looks perfect but again, the shade is off.