JohnVH

My Feedback: (38)

wow, 1lb of lead in the nose.....

get us some flight pics.

Check6

My Feedback: (427)

Hi Craig,
I'll get some pics soon. The directions don't show how you join the flaps but it is quite simple. Glue a wire joiner , about an 1 in. long in the end of the long flap section at the dihedral break. Leave about 1/2 in showing, this then slides into a hole you have to drill in the corresponding small section of flap. You have to slide this in before you glue the outer panel to the center section. This wire is located about 3/8 of an in. from the trailing edge of the flap sections. When this is done the large flap section lowers the smaller one. I know , a pictures worth a thousand words. LOL
Fred

Canuck1

Fred
Thanks for the info. I will be watching for your first flight report, and your pictures. Good Luck.
One last question, what servo's are you using, standard or any high tourqe servo's?

Craig

josephair

darrell, I don't think kmp has a shopping cart online if that is what you were asking, but these guys do [link=http://www.cheetahrc.com]hurricane[/link]

I think they are kmp's main internet dealer.

BlueMax3

My Feedback: (1)

Great information on this plane. She is a beauty. I am seriously considering buying this plane and the price is right with retracts. Given that 1lb had to be added with a 120, it sounds like a small gasser might work. Any thoughts on a using an RCS 140 with this plane? Also, are those who are building it using the gear that came with it and if so, are you going to strengthen the mounting rails?

Thanks,

Travis

Canuck1

Fred
I have so many questions. LOL
Have you given any thought in regards to weathering this plane? The finish is real nice, however some weathering sure would add to the appearance. I tried some laquer thinner on a small portion of the canopy to see what effect it would have. The paint came off with little rubbing. I am not to sure what type of paint they used. How did you do your exhaust stains, I do not own an airbrush and was wondering if you had another method. Did you use the decals that came with the kit. They are nice however to shinny. I was thinking on painting them on with flat fuel proof colours. I am also interested in seeing how you set up the scale tail wheel. I am a scale builder and am going to try and scale the Hurricane up as much as possible. Did you try to hide the wing join seam on the main wing? I am thinking there must be a way to clean up the very small gap. Any other additional info will be greatly appreciated. I will be away starting Monday for 6 weeks, and I am looking forward to tackling this project when I return.

This thread has seemed to be taking off well, with lots of information and interest.

Craig

Check6

My Feedback: (427)

Hi Craig,
I have installed Hitec 605's on the elevator and rudder, and JR 537 BB on flaps and ailerons, only because I had these looking for a home. I don't think you would have any problem with standard servos. I have added gun stains and exhaust stains. You will definitely need an air brush or small touch up gun to do this properly. They look awesome!! Remember not to go overboard you just want a subtle look. There are many ways to do wing walks, here is mine.
Lay out your wing walk on the wing, paint with a heavy wet coat of flat black, then get out your salt shaker and season to your liking. LOL seriously this makes great wing walks with that abrasive look that's painted on, no more glued on pieces of sandpaper. If you have a larger scale plane, 1/5 th or 1/4 , use pepper the grains are a little larger. Try it you'll like it.
Another hint for making flush mounted machine guns, is to use eyelets. These are metal and rounded in the front. They are used in shoes and and sneakers for shoelaces. I use flat polyurethane over the decals, it works well. For scuff marks, dip your finger in silver, small amount and rub it into the paint. Remeber to understate this. Hope to have pictures tomorrow
Hope this helps,
Fred

Check6

My Feedback: (427)

Guys , I have pics but having a problem posting them. Can anybody walk me through it??
Thanks,
Fred

paladin

My Feedback: (9)

Fred, in the small line above your post on the right side are three icons. Click on the reply icon when a standard reply window opens it will have a upload files icon in the lower left just below the area you type in. Click on that and the rest is obvious (if not just post again).

Joe

paladin

My Feedback: (9)

Fred, After hearing how much your model tipped the scales at I did a moment calculation and I think if I put the throttle servo on the engine mount, and put the E, Rud, Ret servos and Rx and bat around the feul tank I can reduce that nose weight to 0-2 oz. I assumed you mounted the extra weght to the firewall on the engine side is that correct? I'm also thinking of mounting the retract servo on the engine mount. That would make it slightly nose heavy. I'm going through my options on how to do that now.

Joe

Check6

My Feedback: (427)

Hi Joe,
I did all that, I got a message saying files successfully uploaded. I think they are out in cyberspace somewhere. LOL. Any idea on how to get them on this post???
Thanks,
Fred

paladin

My Feedback: (9)

Sorry Fred, once you get the OK button select it. That will bring you back to the post where you typed in your comments. Hit the OK button for that (that’s the OK button you are used to hitting).

Then the next screen will have two buttons “view the post� or “return to warbirds(I can’t think of the correct name)�. I always hit “view post� and it will show you the post with the pictures. Now the pic’s may be a little off when viewing from here because everything is so new. They will look as you expect them to for every one else, ans will look correct after you close the thread and reopen it.

Good Luck

Joe

Check6

My Feedback: (427)

1Picture 1&2 shows the linkage for the tailwheel and rudder. This allows the tail wheel to be put in the scale position. The hatch is cut out along the panel lines under the stab .

Check6

My Feedback: (427)

2 Pic. 1 Saito 120 installation. Pic 2 shows the muffler situated completely inside the cowl. Aluminum flashing was glued in as a heat shield. Pic. 3- 1 lb. of lead siliconed into the front of the cowl. Pic 4, exhaust stacks glued in side of the cowl for better scale appearance

Check6

My Feedback: (427)

3 Pic 1 show the ehaust stacks mounted from the inside, with airbrushed exhaust stains. Hole in the bottom of the cowl is the opening for the muffler which remains completely enclosed.
Pic 2 Hole on top of cowl for remote glo igniter, Pic. 3 cutout for engine, Pic 4 radio installation. Pushrod to acutate the pilots head is connected to the rudder pushrod and mounted between the rudder and elev. servo.

Check6

My Feedback: (427)

4

Check6

My Feedback: (427)

5Pic 1 is the retract servo, valve and air tank mounted on the wing. This eliminates a connector and possible air leak The black strip is the wing walk., Last pic shows retract area coated with epoxy. I didn't use the wheel well liners. The dowel in pic 3 is to keep the wheels in the well while working on the wing. Removes for flight.

Richard L.

My Feedback: (24)

Where is the air exit hole for the engine? Things will get toasty inside the cowl.

Check6

My Feedback: (427)

Hi Richard, Most of the engine is hanging in the breeze, my concern will be with the muffler. I will run it like it is to see if it overheats. If it tends to overheat I will have to make more openings on the bottom. I also opened up the exhaust stacks which allow heat to escape.
We'll see.
Fred

Check6

My Feedback: (427)

6

Check6

My Feedback: (427)

7 Pic 2 shows the more forward rake of the landing gear, pic 3 shows the wing walk detail

Check6

My Feedback: (427)

8 These are hard to see but it's the connecting wire between the flap segments.

Richard L.

My Feedback: (24)

Fred, you have heat radiating from about half of the engine inside the cowl and even more heat radiating from the muffler body and elbow, so it will get quite hot in there if the air exit area is not big enough.

Check6

My Feedback: (427)

Richard , You are correct, I think I'll make a recess underneath just in front of the intake on the wing. Hate to cook a new engine. You know how us scale nuts are trying to hide everything. LOL
Fred

josephair

Hi Check 6, wanted to relay an experience on a fellow club member......he had a tail heavy aircraft (can't remember what it was), and he put his lead nose weight in the fiberglass cowl like you did. During his flight, the cowl broke off due to the weight of the lead( I think the cowl broke away at the mounting screws). In the end , the cowl fell competely off during the flight , the plane went tail heavy , dead stick , and went in hard !