MOKI RADIAL Care and Maintenence
12-12-2011, 02:26 PM
#1751
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RE: MOKI RADIAL Care and Maintenence
ORIGINAL: Blackwidow
Hello,
I suspect these are stupid questions so I will applogize up front.
I purchased the turbulator for my Moki 250. It arrived the other day but I have some questions I was hoping you folks might be able to help me with.
1) Am I correct in assuming that the turbulator is placed between the carb and the intake of the Moki?
2) The turbulator has different ID sizes on each end. One end is about 0.591'' and the other end is about 0.650''. The end that is 0.650'' ID is the end with the twist baffel flush with the end of the turbulator. What is the proper oreintation for the Turbulator? I assumed the large end with the flush baffels is the intake of the turbulator. Correct?
3) What is the purpose of the spacer that is about 3/8'' think and has an ID of about 0.591''? Is it required (needed) or just to extend the length of the carb for mechanical or clearance reasons?
4) What is the extra small diameter plastic tubing for? I have removed the pressure line from the crank case to the carb when I installed the electric fuel pump.
If the turbulator indeed is designed to be placed between the carb and the motor then the carb and naturally the needle valve adjustments are now going to be protruding inside the airframe and wont be accessible any more. Hmmmmm
That's gonna make it tough to adjust the needles once the engine is mounted on the airplane.
Anyone solved this problem on their project willing to share how they did it?
Thank you in advance for your help!
Blue Skies,
Tom
Hello,
I suspect these are stupid questions so I will applogize up front.
I purchased the turbulator for my Moki 250. It arrived the other day but I have some questions I was hoping you folks might be able to help me with.
1) Am I correct in assuming that the turbulator is placed between the carb and the intake of the Moki?
2) The turbulator has different ID sizes on each end. One end is about 0.591'' and the other end is about 0.650''. The end that is 0.650'' ID is the end with the twist baffel flush with the end of the turbulator. What is the proper oreintation for the Turbulator? I assumed the large end with the flush baffels is the intake of the turbulator. Correct?
3) What is the purpose of the spacer that is about 3/8'' think and has an ID of about 0.591''? Is it required (needed) or just to extend the length of the carb for mechanical or clearance reasons?
4) What is the extra small diameter plastic tubing for? I have removed the pressure line from the crank case to the carb when I installed the electric fuel pump.
If the turbulator indeed is designed to be placed between the carb and the motor then the carb and naturally the needle valve adjustments are now going to be protruding inside the airframe and wont be accessible any more. Hmmmmm
That's gonna make it tough to adjust the needles once the engine is mounted on the airplane.
Anyone solved this problem on their project willing to share how they did it?
Thank you in advance for your help!
Blue Skies,
Tom
I hav ethe same engine. Bought the turbulator, and air filter. Just to find out it does not fit my Corsair. You are right it the Turb and filter will extend about 5 inches deeper into the fuse. So I have some fancy unused parts on the table. If anyone needs these, I can make you a deal, turb and filter. for 60 bucks.
vern
12-12-2011, 10:16 PM
#1753
RE: MOKI RADIAL Care and Maintenence
Tom,
there should be a manual of several pages coming along with the turbulator.
The bigger opening is facing to the rear .
Remove everything from your engine but the sealing. Then the turbulator, a sealing, the black 10 mm spacer, a sealing, and then the carb.
The lenght is designed to have your needles better in the airframe instead of exactly in the bulkhead (firewall). There was no other way. Normally, you have a much better access to your carb, levers etc. compared with the situation in the engine mount. The improved running behaviour of the engine makes it worthwile to shoulder this little extra work.
The longer tubing is for guys without an e-pump.
Ask Vogelsang for the manual; there is also one translation here in this forum by Maxxam.
there should be a manual of several pages coming along with the turbulator.
The bigger opening is facing to the rear .
Remove everything from your engine but the sealing. Then the turbulator, a sealing, the black 10 mm spacer, a sealing, and then the carb.
The lenght is designed to have your needles better in the airframe instead of exactly in the bulkhead (firewall). There was no other way. Normally, you have a much better access to your carb, levers etc. compared with the situation in the engine mount. The improved running behaviour of the engine makes it worthwile to shoulder this little extra work.
The longer tubing is for guys without an e-pump.
Ask Vogelsang for the manual; there is also one translation here in this forum by Maxxam.
12-13-2011, 05:32 AM
#1754
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RE: MOKI RADIAL Care and Maintenence
Last month I remember finding the german site for ordering a moki radial! Could someone please remind me the site?
Thank you,
Anthony
Thank you,
Anthony
12-14-2011, 04:41 AM
#1756
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RE: MOKI RADIAL Care and Maintenence
That's the one! Thank you!
Has anyone any info about http://www.heilemann-sternmotoren.de/ ?
Anthony
Has anyone any info about http://www.heilemann-sternmotoren.de/ ?
Anthony
12-19-2011, 09:06 AM
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RE: MOKI RADIAL Care and Maintenence
Gentlemen, Thanks for all the info that you have given, it really has helped me put together a maintenance program for my 215. I have not run the engine yet I hope to get my 33% AMR Waco finished next year.
The maufacturer test ran the engine with a 32/18 and a 30-1 oil mix but the recommended mix from my instructions is 50/1, that doesn't sound correct after reading this forum.
I have a tendency to go toward the 30-1 mix.
The Waco is a high drag aircraft compared to a P-47 so I'm not sure which prop would be best, I agree with Mick about loading the engine instead of reving it up too high, but if you load it too much it will over heat.
Boy Isn't this hobby fun!...
I was told to run a 32/12 prop for break-in, does this sound about right to you guys?
I have thought about drilling the exhaust header nuts and using safety wire to keep the nuts from loosening up, but it sounds like using silicone and loctite may work also.
I hope to add info to this thread as my experience increases, I have dreamed for over 50 years someday I would see radial engines in r/c aircraft, I never dreamed I would have one.
Thanks to Scott for starting this and to all the fellows who have contributed invaluable info, we owe you guys........Ron
The maufacturer test ran the engine with a 32/18 and a 30-1 oil mix but the recommended mix from my instructions is 50/1, that doesn't sound correct after reading this forum.
I have a tendency to go toward the 30-1 mix.
The Waco is a high drag aircraft compared to a P-47 so I'm not sure which prop would be best, I agree with Mick about loading the engine instead of reving it up too high, but if you load it too much it will over heat.
Boy Isn't this hobby fun!...
I was told to run a 32/12 prop for break-in, does this sound about right to you guys?
I have thought about drilling the exhaust header nuts and using safety wire to keep the nuts from loosening up, but it sounds like using silicone and loctite may work also.
I hope to add info to this thread as my experience increases, I have dreamed for over 50 years someday I would see radial engines in r/c aircraft, I never dreamed I would have one.
Thanks to Scott for starting this and to all the fellows who have contributed invaluable info, we owe you guys........Ron
12-19-2011, 09:34 AM
#1758
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RE: MOKI RADIAL Care and Maintenence
Gentlemen, more questions, About my 215 starting problems with Priming the engine.
So 1st power on- ignition off , full throttle, close choke. Flip prop get fuel into engine. Problem, fuel not getting drawn into engine . SO, pull engine out , check fuel tank hoses and fuel lines pressure test fuel line and tank so far every thing OK. no leaks. SO, next step, check cylinder bolts, all tight. Actually checked all engine bolts , All tight. Reassemble everything and try again, no luck now this is all by hand flipping the prop. So, try with electric starter , after a few attemps of spinning the engine over ( no chock) she finally fired. I let the engine warm up for about 3-4 minutes increased rpm everyting is good. Shut engine down, let cool for 10 minutes, tryed hand starting, no luck, ended up using starter again. I must say that last year I had no problems at all, she just started like a dream , every time. Any ideas or sugestions on where to go next. I did forget to mention that I had a minor crash. Had to send the engine to RCS for repairs $700+. This was before they went over to TBM.
Heinz
12-19-2011, 10:52 AM
#1759
RE: MOKI RADIAL Care and Maintenence
Heinzulrich,
In the spirit of full disclosure I am NOT an expert on this motor. I will however share with you my experience with my 250 which is similar to yours. Started off hand propping the 250. Assumed it would be the same starting procedure as all of my other 3W & DA big gassers. I have since learned that is not the case in a few areas. The first is a minor issue but there really isn't a "sweet" compression point in the prop rotation to flip the prop through by hand like there is on a single or even a twin cylinder engine. So when you hand prop the motor through one cylinder's compression point the next cylinder's compression point in the props rotation seems to slow the rotation down. Like I said not a big deal but different from a single. The next thing I learned was that my radial seemed to want to be choked on every start. Unlike my other gas motors which only seem to need a choke on the first start of the day this 250 radial seemed to want it every time. The next thing I learned was that the pulse pump to the carb diaphragm does not seem to be as strong as it needs to be and the tube can become blocked with grease which can reduce the fuel pressure enough to stop the engine.
Now all of that said there may be other options to address these issues and like I said up front I am no expert but after reading a large number of entries on this thread I have learned a lot from others. I installed an electric fuel pump to eliminate the need for the pulse pump and my dependence on that small hose to provide fuel pressure. Next I purchased a large electric starter and placed a small prop hub on the engine. I know use the starter on every start and it works great. I know....I really like not having to bring starters and batteries to the field when I fly my big gas models. Hand propping the motor is also kinda cool I think. However, I have found a large scale starter motor and battery together that is working well to start the engine. Much easier and choking does not seem to be required using the starter motor and fuel pump.
I too plan to use this radial on a 33% Waco (Barth)
Hope this is of some help
Blue Skies!
Tom<o
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12-19-2011, 11:21 AM
#1760
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RE: MOKI RADIAL Care and Maintenence
i have a Moki 250 and this is how I start mine by hand. Have the plane tied down securely Or have someone hold the plane. I close the Choke and open throttle wide open. Ignition On. I flip the prop until the engine coughs , it may start the engine for 1 or 2 seconds.
I then close the throttle place it, at slightly above Idle. Open the Choke. Flip the prop. It usually start in 4 to 5 flips of the prop.
After a flight or even 5 min. after engine shut down, I need to Choke the engine again. and do it all over to start the engine.
I think the big hunk of engine is a real Heat Sink and cools off fast or evaporates the gas left in the engine after a flight.
Mine starts very easily and I do not have to flip the prop fast and hard to get it to start. In fact, I usually only need to fingers to flip it.
Hope this helps.
Vern
I then close the throttle place it, at slightly above Idle. Open the Choke. Flip the prop. It usually start in 4 to 5 flips of the prop.
After a flight or even 5 min. after engine shut down, I need to Choke the engine again. and do it all over to start the engine.
I think the big hunk of engine is a real Heat Sink and cools off fast or evaporates the gas left in the engine after a flight.
Mine starts very easily and I do not have to flip the prop fast and hard to get it to start. In fact, I usually only need to fingers to flip it.
Hope this helps.
Vern
12-19-2011, 12:09 PM
#1761
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RE: MOKI RADIAL Care and Maintenence
Thanks for the input, My actual problem seems to be choking and getting the fuel up to the engine. In other words , with the choke on, the engine does not seem to draw fuel up. Thats why I was using the electric starter. Sorry for the confusion.
Heinz
12-19-2011, 12:35 PM
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RE: MOKI RADIAL Care and Maintenence
I also had the same problem with my 250cc. The problem was that the choke was not fully closed. it was less than 1mm open. This was enough for not getting any fuel.
After I noticed the choke plate, it startet getting fuel very well. It's like there is no middle ground for it. either it takes fuel well or not at all. Surely the fuel pump will resolve this issue but I would not pay over $200 for something unnesessary.
I also had the small hole shouldered at the factory when I received it. So it seems that it has to be rather tight for Moki to get fuel when choking. I suppose it it partly due to the diaphragma pump but it is powerfull enough.
After I noticed the choke plate, it startet getting fuel very well. It's like there is no middle ground for it. either it takes fuel well or not at all. Surely the fuel pump will resolve this issue but I would not pay over $200 for something unnesessary.
I also had the small hole shouldered at the factory when I received it. So it seems that it has to be rather tight for Moki to get fuel when choking. I suppose it it partly due to the diaphragma pump but it is powerfull enough.
12-19-2011, 03:05 PM
#1764
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RE: MOKI RADIAL Care and Maintenence
Heinz,
After reading all the recent posts, I think you'll find that jairaksinen has your solution. The clearance between the choke arm and the firewall is very small and the slightest interference will not allow the choke to fully close. Check the choke closure very carefully.
After reading all the recent posts, I think you'll find that jairaksinen has your solution. The clearance between the choke arm and the firewall is very small and the slightest interference will not allow the choke to fully close. Check the choke closure very carefully.
12-24-2011, 10:55 AM
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RE: MOKI RADIAL Care and Maintenence
Yes Jim, This is what came with my 215 and also six prop bolts and two extra pushrods.
The prop washer is heavy enough to use as a drill guide if you are careful.
The prop washer is heavy enough to use as a drill guide if you are careful.
12-24-2011, 12:23 PM
#1768
RE: MOKI RADIAL Care and Maintenence
ORIGINAL: wingstrut
Yes Jim, This is what came with my 215 and also six prop bolts and two extra pushrods.
The prop washer is heavy enough to use as a drill guide if you are careful.
Yes Jim, This is what came with my 215 and also six prop bolts and two extra pushrods.
The prop washer is heavy enough to use as a drill guide if you are careful.
http://translate.google.co.uk/transl...26prmd%3Dimvns
12-24-2011, 02:27 PM
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RE: MOKI RADIAL Care and Maintenence
Does anybody know a place that has a Moki 250 actually IN STOCK that can ship to the USA? I ordered one from a certain company in Florida for my Easytiger Triplane and I have been waiting for several months, I don't want to build the plane until the engine comes. A little tired of waiting. I would pay to ship from Europe, but only to someone who actually has one IN STOCK, with their hands on it, ready to ship.
12-24-2011, 03:12 PM
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RE: MOKI RADIAL Care and Maintenence
12-25-2011, 10:05 AM
#1773
RE: MOKI RADIAL Care and Maintenence
With some time off work I thought I would do some work on the Moki 250 that I have been wanting to do for a while.I installed the Turbulator, changed the plugs to the Denso U20M-U, checked the valve adjustments andadded some high temp RTV on the exhaust gland nuts that keep coming loose.I just wanted to pass along a few things I learned when adding this RTV to the exhaust nuts.First, these nuts are easier to cross thread than you might expect (sigh).The radius of the exhaust tube and the Teflon grommet can make it tough to get that gland nut started correctly.I would recommend not taking the gland nut completely loose from the exhaust manifold when applying the RTV but rather loosening it until you can see about 4 to 5 threads, applying the RTV to the threads exposed, re-torque the nut and wipe off excess residue.I found the best approach to get the gland nuts started correctly after having removed them was to remove all of the exhaust nuts at the cylinder heads allowing the exhaust manifold to be slightly loose.This allowed enough movement to get the gland nuts started correctly and once they were engaged I was able to get all of the cylinder head exhaust nuts threaded and finally tightened everything up again.I am anxious to see what if any improvements I get from the turbulator, new plugs and new 50:1 fuel mix.