Lletisso

Yes, what you see in the video is at full throttle with a Fiala 26/10

shaked israel

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t3U1JHiNd88&feature=youtu.be

Eulboyington

Hello,

To help MOKI Radial owners on engines maintenance, I made yesterday a dedicated thread on MOKI Radials camshaft timing on my professional FaceBook webpage
Search " MODELISME MICROMOTEURS SERVICE" from your FaceBook webpage.

hope this help !

LRFitch

Guys, I have an older 215cc that was reconditioned just before I bought it by Mike D. at TBM. I have since swapped out the cam followers as recommended by Dr.V. I intend to use an electric fuel pressure pump, but also wonder if I need to swap out the top hat ignition unit. I've owned the engine for 11-12 years and never started it, as I don't have a round nosed airplane to put it in. I'm building a 41% Pitts Model 12, but that won't be ready to fly any time soon. Thinking about buying a 40% Yak 55 ARF so I can get this engine in the air reasonable soon. Are there mods/changes that I need to consider before trying to fly this thing?

Thanks,
Larry Fitch

Blackwidow

Larry,

I'm kinda in the same boat. I have two of the 250's with the older top hat ignitions one of which has also yet to be started.

I recently spoke to Gotz Vogelsang (who I trust implicitly) and he said there was no reason to proactively swap out the ignition module for the new one unless it is failing.

One thing that is critical with the old top hat ignitions is the ignition voltage.

You want that at 5.9V to 6.0V regulated!

Anything below can cause reduced performance and anything above can damage the unit.

Blue Skies

Tom

LRFitch

Tom, Thanks a lot for the info. As soon as Gotz gets the fuel pumps back in stock, I will buy one, and mount it up on a mount and see if I can get it fired up. Hopefully the weather will get a bit nicer over the next few weeks. I'm good with the 6.0 volt limit.

Thanks Again,
Larry Fitch

LRFitch

Folks, I've been looking/reading through all these pages of information, and seen something that is a b it puzzeling. That is the engine mount, and I think it is on the 215 and 250 engines. Some mounts have 3 mounting holes, and some have five. Mine has 3 holes to bolt the engine to the firewall, and the picture of the one sold by Vogelsang shows 5. I see photos on this thread each way. Did MOKI change from 3 to 5 at some point in time, or is there other reasons for the two bolt patterns? I realize with the 3 hole system, you just about have to have studs sticking out the the firewall, and secure the engine with washers and nuts. With 5 holes you could install 5 bolts in between each cylinder. I'm guessing that's the reason for the change?

Larry

tmac48

Anyone ?

tmac48

Anyone?

tmac48

Thinking of installing pump to help with initial start up. After reading the directions on the pump I am a little concerned with the bleeding procedure and would like some input from people with experience with the pump particularly the bit about not running the pump dry. Do you need to leave fuel in your tank at all times as per modern motor vehicles? If you do not fly for say a month or two wouldn't this leave you with rather stale fuel? (this is on a 250).
Regards tmac48.

Jaketab

My Feedback: (2)

Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but with the newer pumps that have the recirculating valve on top (2), that makes bleeding unnecessary. A small amount of unused fuel passes through the pump and is returned to the tank.
I also have an older pump without the valve on top. The simple solution is to install a "tee" in the fuel line (1) to the carburetor and another "tee" in the tank fill line (7), then connect the lines so the unused fuel is passed back to the fuel tank. You can place a slight restriction in the line connecting the "tees" and there is still more then adequate pressure to the carb. Never have an issue where the pump is starved unless you run out of fuel.

Regards - J Tab

LRFitch

Guys,
I received my fuel pump and the template for air flow control. Very nicely done. I take it I need to build some mounts to bolt it to the inside of the cowling. Question: How do most finish the plywood piece? I'm thinking a coat of epoxy on both sides, and a nice black paint job? Second, the template lays right on the front of the engine. Do guys mount the template a bit forward of the engine, and do you run some type of foam to the template for a better air seal?

Thanks,
Larry

tmac48

Jaketab, thanks for that, I have that exact pump but a different diagram that was pretty confusing! It does make sense that you can drain the tank after each days flying and the pump will do its bleeding via the bleed-off nipple next time you fill the tank.
Regards tmac48.

tmac48

Yes, make a ring that you glue to cowl and screw the baffle from behind.

GeorgiaFlyer

I have this pump in several of my planes. No issue at all with draining the tank after a days flight and then filling the tank on next day of flight and cranking the engine. No special priming of the pump needed. Just don't run the pump dry or when the tank is empty for any length of time (more than a 5 seconds or so) and you will be fine. These pumps do a fantastic job, never an issue and I have 100 plus flights on them.

tmac48

Thank you for your input, the instructions and the diagram that came with my pump had me a little confused, all good now. Do you use a separate battery or do you use the ignition bat through the ign cut switch?
Regards tmac48.

GeorgiaFlyer

I have the blue ignition boxes on my moki's so I can use a lithium ion battery with no regulator. I use one lithium ion 5200 ma battery for the ignition, fuel and smoke pump.

tmac48

So does this mean that the pump and ign work off the same switch? ie Ign on Pump on?
Regards tmac48

GeorgiaFlyer

initial power on yes. but this fuel pump pictured in previous thread, the one i am using has an additional input from a channel on transmitter that actually engages/starts the pump and then controls the amount of pump speed based on mixing that particular channel with the throttle.

Jaketab

My Feedback: (2)

Tmac,

I use same 5600 mah Li Ion for both ignition and fuel pump.
The battery is connected to a hard charge switch with 2 output leads.
One lead goes to the Rcexl Opti Kill module. You can place a regulator between the switch and ignition if required for 6 volts.
The optic kill control wire goes back to a receiver channel for assignment to an on/off switch.
The optic kill output wire goes to the ignition.

The other output lead of the switch goes directly to the pump.
The pump control wire is connected a different channel on the receiver.
I then program the radio where both the ignition and the pump channels share the same on/off switch.
It is your option if you want to use a separate switch for the pump and ignition.

Regards - J Tab

tmac48

Ok, thanks for the info will give it a shot.
Regards tmac48.

The Flying Scot

Has anyone removed the rear crankshaft bearing from the crankcase of a moki 180 radial? Or any other moki as the procedure is probably the same.
There are 2 holes in the front of the crankcase for the pinion gear spindles. I am not sure if the bearing can be pushed out using those.

regards

Arthur

Supermod56

My Feedback: (36)

If anybody is looking for the Blue ignition boxes, I have a couple that I'm not using, I switched both my motors to the Rainbow Tronic systems.
Tom

IFLYBVM2

My Feedback: (360)

PM sent

affas

Had my Petrausch Harvard and Moki 250 out in the garden last week for spring startup A bit grumpy but started and ran well after it first started

Today it just popped and never got it running


Is membran a good suggestion?


And original ones or Mylar?? Any recommendations?


Thanks Alf