MOKI RADIAL Care and Maintenence
11-11-2017, 07:16 PM
#4031
Originally Posted by [email protected]
my first MOKI on a 40% WACO what are some general guidelines for care and maintenance my others i use 40:1 redline racing oil is this ok to use in a MOKI 400 ?
Other maintenance tips & tricks -
After every flying session (or every hour or so) clean and lightly oil the rockers, push rod ends and valve stem, or if you prefer a good squirt with WD40 will clean and lube them for you. The valve stem under the spring is important as without a regular lube carbon build up on the valve stem could eventually cause the valve to stick resulting in the possible loss of a pushrod.
Lube the exhaust valves by depressing the valve rocker, removing the pushrod then filling the pocket around the top of the exhaust valve with TRI-FLOW and depressing the valve spring to allow the lube to migrate down the valve stem.
Valve clearance with the engine cold is 0.05mm to 0.08mm and the plug gap is 0.3mm to 0.4mm.
Check all external nuts/bolts especially the exhaust collector ring nuts as they take ages to bed in due to the Teflon seal.
11-12-2017, 09:06 AM
#4032
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Barcelona
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Oil brand (Redline vs Stihl HP) is a matter of personal preference, but general consensus is recommended ratio of 50:1
Other maintenance tips & tricks -
After every flying session (or every hour or so) clean and lightly oil the rockers, push rod ends and valve stem, or if you prefer a good squirt with WD40 will clean and lube them for you. The valve stem under the spring is important as without a regular lube carbon build up on the valve stem could eventually cause the valve to stick resulting in the possible loss of a pushrod.
Lube the exhaust valves by depressing the valve rocker, removing the pushrod then filling the pocket around the top of the exhaust valve with TRI-FLOW and depressing the valve spring to allow the lube to migrate down the valve stem.
Valve clearance with the engine cold is 0.05mm to 0.08mm and the plug gap is 0.3mm to 0.4mm.
Check all external nuts/bolts especially the exhaust collector ring nuts as they take ages to bed in due to the Teflon seal.
Other maintenance tips & tricks -
After every flying session (or every hour or so) clean and lightly oil the rockers, push rod ends and valve stem, or if you prefer a good squirt with WD40 will clean and lube them for you. The valve stem under the spring is important as without a regular lube carbon build up on the valve stem could eventually cause the valve to stick resulting in the possible loss of a pushrod.
Lube the exhaust valves by depressing the valve rocker, removing the pushrod then filling the pocket around the top of the exhaust valve with TRI-FLOW and depressing the valve spring to allow the lube to migrate down the valve stem.
Valve clearance with the engine cold is 0.05mm to 0.08mm and the plug gap is 0.3mm to 0.4mm.
Check all external nuts/bolts especially the exhaust collector ring nuts as they take ages to bed in due to the Teflon seal.
Hello MarkSp, do I have to lubricate this zone marked in red in the picture..?
Do you see the new "cover spark plugs" now are platstic, not metalic.
Thank you!
Jordi
11-12-2017, 10:41 AM
#4033
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Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: HAMILTON, MI
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oil brand (redline vs stihl hp) is a matter of personal preference, but general consensus is recommended ratio of 50:1
other maintenance tips & tricks -
after every flying session (or every hour or so) clean and lightly oil the rockers, push rod ends and valve stem, or if you prefer a good squirt with wd40 will clean and lube them for you. The valve stem under the spring is important as without a regular lube carbon build up on the valve stem could eventually cause the valve to stick resulting in the possible loss of a pushrod.
Lube the exhaust valves by depressing the valve rocker, removing the pushrod then filling the pocket around the top of the exhaust valve with tri-flow and depressing the valve spring to allow the lube to migrate down the valve stem.
Valve clearance with the engine cold is 0.05mm to 0.08mm and the plug gap is 0.3mm to 0.4mm.
Check all external nuts/bolts especially the exhaust collector ring nuts as they take ages to bed in due to the teflon seal.
other maintenance tips & tricks -
after every flying session (or every hour or so) clean and lightly oil the rockers, push rod ends and valve stem, or if you prefer a good squirt with wd40 will clean and lube them for you. The valve stem under the spring is important as without a regular lube carbon build up on the valve stem could eventually cause the valve to stick resulting in the possible loss of a pushrod.
Lube the exhaust valves by depressing the valve rocker, removing the pushrod then filling the pocket around the top of the exhaust valve with tri-flow and depressing the valve spring to allow the lube to migrate down the valve stem.
Valve clearance with the engine cold is 0.05mm to 0.08mm and the plug gap is 0.3mm to 0.4mm.
Check all external nuts/bolts especially the exhaust collector ring nuts as they take ages to bed in due to the teflon seal.
11-15-2017, 04:53 AM
#4035
My Feedback: (102)
I have a few questions for the Moki experts. I just acquired my first Moki, a 250 which I purchased used to go onto a 1/3 scale BUSA Stearman. The engine came with the blue ignition system, and the Emcotec 380HV fuel pump. The fuel pump, however, has no instruction in the box. I am assuming the "P" port on the top of the pump is the pressure return port to the tank, is this correct? Also I plan to connect the pump to the battery (2100 mAh Life 6.6 which I will use for the ignition) and run this thru an optical cutoff switch. Agin, is this the correct way to do it, and does it just plug into the back of hte pump where it says "IGN", or does it go to "BAT".? Also there is a jumper in the box which is labeled for programming, what type of programming of the pump is needed and how do you do this?
Thanks for the help, this thread is a wealth of information.
Tommy
Thanks for the help, this thread is a wealth of information.
Tommy
11-16-2017, 07:58 AM
#4039
DocYates,
Vogelsang has instructions for this new style pump.
You will just be using the two side plugs and you don't want to do anything with the PRG/IGN plug. The REC plug goes to an open channel in your receiver to set up a switch to turn the pump on and off and then the BATT plug gets tied into the ignition in parallel with the ignition battery. I usually solder an extension in to the lead that you will make up for the ignition module. I have always just used a Heavy Duty JR switch as a kill switch for the ignition and i have mounted that as close to the ignition as possible. then i use heavy gauge wire as a battery lead so it doesn't drop to many amps to the ignition. I also run everything on 7.4 VOLTS. I wouldn't use an optical switch to the ignition if possible. Ive seen those fail one too many times.
Vogelsang has instructions for this new style pump.
You will just be using the two side plugs and you don't want to do anything with the PRG/IGN plug. The REC plug goes to an open channel in your receiver to set up a switch to turn the pump on and off and then the BATT plug gets tied into the ignition in parallel with the ignition battery. I usually solder an extension in to the lead that you will make up for the ignition module. I have always just used a Heavy Duty JR switch as a kill switch for the ignition and i have mounted that as close to the ignition as possible. then i use heavy gauge wire as a battery lead so it doesn't drop to many amps to the ignition. I also run everything on 7.4 VOLTS. I wouldn't use an optical switch to the ignition if possible. Ive seen those fail one too many times.
11-16-2017, 11:31 AM
#4040
My Feedback: (102)
Thanks Greg, I found a partial instructions similar to what you are referencing. Says to set the channel to 0% and about 60% as a starting point. Figured since I was doing this I would just use a separate battery and switch, since I can turn the pump on and off from the radio, and then just link it to the ignition switch so when the ignition is engaged, the pump will be on. Does the small jumper plug need to be plugged into the "PROG" port, or does it just remain open?
TOmmy
TOmmy
11-17-2017, 06:42 AM
#4043
Doc,
Your making life a little harder on yourself with the extra switch and battery. I'm able to get at least 5 to 6 flights a day on a 4000 mah lipo battery with it running both the ignition and the pump at the same time.
My set-up is simple as i have the ignition and pump wired in series to one switch. The switch turns both the ignition and pump on and then i arm the pump with a switch from the radio so that its not running the whole time before i start the motor. When i'm ready to fly i turn on the ignition which also powers up the pump. Then i flip the switch on the radio to turn the pump on and i choke it till it pops. I then un-choke it and flip till its running.
Your making life a little harder on yourself with the extra switch and battery. I'm able to get at least 5 to 6 flights a day on a 4000 mah lipo battery with it running both the ignition and the pump at the same time.
My set-up is simple as i have the ignition and pump wired in series to one switch. The switch turns both the ignition and pump on and then i arm the pump with a switch from the radio so that its not running the whole time before i start the motor. When i'm ready to fly i turn on the ignition which also powers up the pump. Then i flip the switch on the radio to turn the pump on and i choke it till it pops. I then un-choke it and flip till its running.
11-23-2017, 09:20 AM
#4046
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: West Richland, WA
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Moki cylinder cutout?
Guys, I have a Moki 215 that I am installing in a 41% Pitts Model 12 airplane. Does anyone know of a source for a template that I can use to cut a air cooling disc to force the cooling air through the cylinder fins? I am likely not using the correct terminology, and hope this makes sense.
Happy Thanksgiving,
Larry Fitch
Happy Thanksgiving,
Larry Fitch
11-23-2017, 10:09 AM
#4047
My Feedback: (2)
Larry,
I don't know of a template but you can make your own. Take the frontal drawing of the 215 and resize it to match the real engine size. Then place that drawing on some ply and cut out the area for the cylinders. The rest can go inside your cowl. You'll need to size that too. It should make a good air-dam for your cylinders. Keep the ply walls close to the cylinder walls to force air through the cylinder fins.
I don't know of a template but you can make your own. Take the frontal drawing of the 215 and resize it to match the real engine size. Then place that drawing on some ply and cut out the area for the cylinders. The rest can go inside your cowl. You'll need to size that too. It should make a good air-dam for your cylinders. Keep the ply walls close to the cylinder walls to force air through the cylinder fins.
11-23-2017, 11:19 AM
#4048
Guys, I have a Moki 215 that I am installing in a 41% Pitts Model 12 airplane. Does anyone know of a source for a template that I can use to cut a air cooling disc to force the cooling air through the cylinder fins? I am likely not using the correct terminology, and hope this makes sense.
Happy Thanksgiving,
Larry Fitch
Happy Thanksgiving,
Larry Fitch
http://www.vogelsang-aeroscale.com/
11-23-2017, 12:18 PM
#4049
My Feedback: (2)
Guys, I have a Moki 215 that I am installing in a 41% Pitts Model 12 airplane. Does anyone know of a source for a template that I can use to cut a air cooling disc to force the cooling air through the cylinder fins? I am likely not using the correct terminology, and hope this makes sense.
Happy Thanksgiving,
Larry Fitch
Happy Thanksgiving,
Larry Fitch
11-24-2017, 03:17 PM
#4050
My Feedback: (360)
Baffle
Vogelsang sells the pre made baffles. Look under Moki Accessories.
http://www.vogelsang-aeroscale.com/
http://www.vogelsang-aeroscale.com/
Mike O.