Duplicator41

My Feedback: (1)

[size=3][/sizThe inline Saio twin requires lots of cooling over the back cylinder due to it's position, so be sure to provide ample airflow as it is prone to overheating.

Cheers,

77chickenhawk

Personally id cut some really clean holes and center it in the cowl. Youll be glad you did
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10624661

glazier808

My Feedback: (1)

+1!!!

Casey

vasek

My Feedback: (4)

center it

frets24

My Feedback: (15)

Dually noted. I think the radial cowl is perfect for this due to the extreme large opening in the front and the back since it doesn't actually touch the fuselage at any point. Lots of air flow all the way around.

misha034

I thing that best way to mount it as manufacturer has marked slightly off center, so you do not have to cut cowl.

frets24

My Feedback: (15)

Those of you who have built and flown this thing;

As I've been tinkering with getting the cowl and engine set up I noticed that the firewall has a LOT of right thrust built into it.

Have you all mounted your engines with the total amount of built in right thrust or have you shimmed for a lesser amount or adjusted the thrust any?

misha034

I have mount it by following the markings on fuselage.

frets24

My Feedback: (15)

Thanks Misha.

RBean

frets, I used the right thrust as supplied. Cowl mounted at the same angle so not noticeable. About right for the 25cc engine on mine. Flies fine that way.

frets24

My Feedback: (15)

Very good. It just looked like a bunch (of offset thrust).

frets24

My Feedback: (15)

Centered and mounted the engine using all of the built in offset thrust. By offseting the cowl just a bit too, as Rbean suggested, it makes it a lot less noticable.

Next project was to fabricate the functional and dummy exhausts for the "live" side. Decided to leave them as dual exhausts rather than do a ring due to geometry issues and the way that I'm mounting the cowl which is a bit non-standard; I glued the ring with the spacers into the cowl at the cowl flap line and will run some long bolts through the ring into the firewall, backed by blind nuts, for mounting. I'm gonna need a long hex driver to reach them straight through the front cowl opening. Having the ring glued in the cowl gives it more ridgidity and also a place to mount the flap hinges if/when I decide to make the flaps operable.

The extensions are made of 3/8''(12mm) thin wall copper tubing and silver soldered. The one is solid from head to outlet and was made by just brazing the neccessary extension onto the rebent stock brass header. The other needed a much tighter bend than I could get on the stock header so I used the remains/leftovers of a Keleo exhaust that I had from a FA-100 P-51 set. The aluminium header remnant with a nice tight 90* bend was perfect. High temp silicone tubing makes the union.

After lots of thought and experimentation I finally decided to cut the cowl as so many have recommended. Really hated to break the clean lines, but it doesn't look too bad. The valve covers on one cylinder have to removed for fitting the cowl on and off; again due to the the ring being glued into the cowl. Still, it's pretty easy to service; not much extra involved in popping the covers off and on.

My template must have slipped or I didn't have the cowl properly mounted when I marked the holes because they came out a little bit off. Not terrible but I may patch the oversized areas around the valve covers. It won't need any extra area there for cooling as there is loads of inlet and outlet cooling airflow capacity in front and around the entire back end of the cowl.

frets24

My Feedback: (15)

Hey guys,
Not much going on here lately[&o]

Got my canopy rails, the instrument panel and the gun breaches done over the past couple weeks.

The panel was done by sizing a pic from the web and having it printed on the thickest, smooth stock they had at the copyshop. I then chose the brass tubing sizes needed for punches, stuck them in the drill press and sharpened the end. Punched out the dials leaving a bit of the black ring on the panel. Sprayed adhesive on the back side of the punced out panel and stuck it to a piece of clear sheet stock. The clear sheet with the panel veneer was then glued to an uncut copy of the panel pic. Cut the outline and relief in the center for compas as well as the add on panel pieces and put them all together, then mounted (temp) in place to check the "look".

I still have to paint the top, horizontal gun deck and the cockpit area still. Also, the black anti glare needs some touching up and a few rivets, then the head rest.

After that, all that is left is the gunsight and I'm finished with the cockpit as far as I'm going to take it. Not doing side panels, seat, or floor at this time...just a mount for a torso/head bust pilot.

Black Drape

Hey Guys

Got a question for ya. Where are you getting these kits? Nitro has been out of stock for years. I would reallt like to get another one.

thanks
Ron

frets24

My Feedback: (15)

Mine is actually a CMPro knock-off that I picked up on fleabay about 6 years ago...just took a while to get to it in the build que. CMP is still making this one so I don't know why nitroplanes isn't having any of these put into their shippments. I've been told they get a standard container on a pretty regular two month rotation.

pjwright

The 80" A6M is in stock at Nitroplanes, Ron:
http://www.nitroplanes.com/cmpzefi80arf.html

PJ

Black Drape

Thanks pjwright, but I still have three hundred dollars worth of Century Jet retracts for the 120 size Zero.

Ron

ZERO-322

My Feedback: (2)

hey guys im back !

great to see my thread is thriving and doing so well , allot of great stuff to read through , frets beautifull job on the instrament panel ! i had done mine which is on the first pages of this thread but didnt have the patience for the finer detailing like you did , very nice indeed

glazier808

My Feedback: (1)

Tempting, but I'll wait for the ESM Zero. Should be out sometime next year I guess.

Casey

frets24

My Feedback: (15)

Casey,

What size is the ESM Zero going to be? If it is a 1/6 or 70-72''ws I'm going to kick myself for not having done my 109 before the zero. This has been a fun plane to bash but the ESM offerings have proven to be real winners.

Zero-322,

Hey! It's great to see you around again...Where the heck did you get off to!?!? Thanks for the kudos on the IP. It is really kind of a cheat because it's really just a punched out and overlayed set of photo prints. Quick, easy and looks good from 24'' away or through the canopy.

This is what's going to really make the panel "pop"......

glazier808

My Feedback: (1)

Believe me, seeing what you all do with this one makes me want one bad!

I believe it's supposed to be an 80" bird if I read it right. For me is about parts and service if I need something really. Not to mention, the landing gear issues this one has. Perhaps ESM will use Sierras in the correct position?

You all have shown that the CMP plane can be bashed with the best of them though.

Casey

frets24

My Feedback: (15)

80"/50cc, eh? Oh,well. I was really hoping for more in their 120 size birds.

Seems like a lot of the warbird ARFs are going toward the 40-60 glow or 50cc gasser sizes. I like the 120's so everything in my hanger is getting to be or is in the same scale, large enough to detail without a magnifying glass, but not so large as to be hard to transport, store, or make it necessary to switch power sources. As a creature of habit I like glow power and really like the 4c engines. Gassers are much more economical to run and easier to clean but I'm pretty well stocked on spare glow engines, parts and accessories. Besides that, I'm a dinosaur that really resists change Thanks for the heads up though, Casey.


Here's the rest of the pics from last night...it was really late so I only posted the teaser
It was just as easy to leave the hard sight moveable as it was to fix it in place, so for now it is operable.

Loop antenna next and then done with the cockpit and fuselage until paint and weathering time. Glassing and detailing the wing is next

( and yes, that's the top of the spray button from an old can of paint, cut short for the intensity adjustment knob.[&:] It was quick, easy and looked good. At this point, I'm all about quick and easy as long as the quality doesn't suffer!)

Cheers

glazier808

My Feedback: (1)

I could be wrong about the size, as I only saw it mentioned once in a thread here. The gentleman who posted was supposed to be in on it's development or knew abit about it anyways. He stated that it would be at least another year.

Casey

frets24

My Feedback: (15)

I'd love to see what you would do with a zero of any size, Casey...seen your work here on the forums before and it's always been top end.

glazier808

My Feedback: (1)

Thanks Frets,

I do try, and have learned a great deal here. Nice to know others appreciate your effort too.

Some day soon, I will have my Zero....

I have a lot to learn about it before I do though lol...

So build on guys!

Casey