acdii

If you are referring to the Top Flite .60 one, Century Jet has them, or you can get Robarts. I have the CJ, and they look and work very good. Very scale like speeds.

Wagon1

Does anybody else feel like the canopy that comes with the kit is a bit to "bubbley"? It just seems like to slopes to high. I think I would like to make mine into a bird cage F4U1. I have no experience making canopies but I have seen a few threads online. Any ideas?

Wagon1

I've been looking around and found some neat vacuum forming ideas. I'll think I'll give this birdcage thing a try. The canopy and "rear window" ala P40) will be a bit of a challenge for me as I have never done it before. The naval aviation museum is in town so I can use the reference library there for help. I tried to sketch a basic lay out from a Squadron Pub book I have that has both canopies side by side. I just drew it on the plans. Any other big differences in the F4U-1 and the new ones besides the canopy to deal with?



Here's my best guess.....

Wagon1

Also, the only thing cooler than being an engineer, is having a brother who's one. He made me this engine on his 3D printer.

CorsairJock

My Feedback: (90)

1st off: the rear/ P-40 style windows were usually painted over and/ or remove and replaced with aluminum skin, so no special reason to include them in your new canopy. There was a guy named Luke who was making those canopies (I still have a couple, but don't ask me to part with them), I would imagine he could make some more if you contact him (but I have no idea how you could).

There were many changes to the "new ones", including phase out of upper cowl flaps, addition of ordinance pylons/ hardpoints, tailwheel ht., 'steps' 'cut' into flaps, all depending on how 'new' the model was. Corsairs were among the very few aircraft designed prior to (the U.S. involvement) WW II that REMAINED in production until the after the Korean War, and therefor many changes/ improvement were bound to occur.

acdii

I have a cousin whose husband does 3d printing. I should see if he can do something like that too.

saramos

What brand and type of printer?

acdii

Getting closer. I have the tail put together, working on the tail gear doors, but dont have the 1/32 plywood I need, so put it on hold until I get some.



Accidentally epoxied my tail gear in the down position when I glues in the fin. Got it cleaned up and working again. Ooops. I think the plane is coming out pretty good,

Question on the tail hook, I havent been able to see what it looks like when the doors are closed, fully retracted. Trying to decide how to finish up the inside of the tail.

Corsair2013

My Feedback: (2)

Acdii - you might try this thread:

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/rc-w...ld-thread.html

This has some really detail pictures and video of the corsair tail wheel and tail hook.

Keith

acdii

Found it on page 29, thanks, thats what I was looking for. Now to see if I can rig one up to the Robarts gear. Looks like the gear doors are two piece and linked like the flaps since there is a curve to them where they hinge to the fuse, and pretty much matches up with where I am at now on mine.

Wagon1

Hi Saramos. He said it is a uPrint by Stratasys. He's had it about three. He was quoting resolution, etc which I did not understand.

He did send me this link.

http://www.stratasys.com/landing/upr...ble-3d-printer

I guess this is considered an entry level model. The applications for this hobby are endless.

acdii

Question on the nose length, how close is it to scale? I want to use a 20 cc gas on it and the carb is right against the firewall. I would like to extend the nose out about 3/8th more to make it fit better, and if I do it right can open between the cowl and fuse for better cooling.

acdii

Here is one of my wing tips that I modified by sandwiching plywood between the balsa wingtip block. I sliced it in half and epoxied the wood together. One side is done and looks pretty good.



Not quite to scale but looks better than the plans show.

facia

Hi accdii,
Have you mounted your 20cc engine yet?
If so, do you have any pics of the engine/firewall/engine mount?
I am in the process of mounting my DLE 20RA now. Top Flite specs are 5 3/4" from firewall to prop mount plate. The DLE 20 sticks out another 3/8" or so.
I am using the GPMG1101 engine mount for up to 180 size engine. The 60-120 just was'nt big enough. :-)
Should or could I cut out the center back top and bottom bars of the engine mount to slide the engine further back,
or extend the firewall 3/8" or so forward with a plywood ring so that the cowl extends forward?

Any suggestions?

Much appreciated.

Andreas

acdii

I mounted mine using the mount supplied with the motor. I got the XYZ 20, don't recall who, but they are known well. I will see if I have some pics. What I did was cut out some 1/4 plywood using the piece leftover from the firewall as a template and the container from a roll of tape for the inside cut which gave me a full half circle and divided that into quarters. I glued those where the cowl ring mounts go and mounted the ring to that. I filled in between those with 1/4 balsa, then shaped it all around to match the curving on the actual plane. It moved the cowl out enough so that the prop stuck out to look as close to scale as possible.

facia

Thank you for your fast reply acdii,
That's the route I'll take.

Andreas

acdii

Here are a couple to help you see what I did.



When compared to my plastic model, the distance between the back of the blades and the cowl look to be in scale now.



If need be, I can add a washer or two to the back side of the cowl ring to extend it further out since the bolts are pretty long.

facia

Thanks very much, acdii.

I have the necessary wood and hardware at home and hopefully will have a chance
to get at it after work tonight.

Andreas

facia

Hi acdii,
this worked like a charm. I used 3/8" ply and balsa in the fashion that you suggested.
I had to extend the engine out a bit more in order to gain enough clearance for movement of the choke lever.

I think that I can live with the space between the prop back and cowl.

That DLE20 RA is a pretty big engine. Hope it will work.


It's a lot of firsts for me. First kit build, first gas engine, first etc. etc.

Thanks again for your help.

Andreas

acdii

Looking good. I finished the glass on mine today. A light sanding, and then ready for primer and filling. Still need to get the paint mixed up, I made some color patches from ModelMaster colors, and will take it to Lowes or HD and have them mix up some of those sample things. Starting to look like a corsair!

facia

That sounds great. Let me know how well they are able to match the colors. We have Lowes and HD up here as well.
I am undecided yet on what color scheme I will be using.
It'll be some time until I will be at that stage though. The flaps have to be built, I am installing aviaton concepts switch hides that have to be put together yet,
http://hangtimes.com/chargers.html

the cockpit kit, the replica engine cylinder kit cooling baffle etc.
I am debating to put panel lines with 1/64 chart tape and rivets with the hot iron into the primer method. Might even do the
syringe droplets raised rivets (I used canopy glue for this with success on my spitfire).

Anxious to see some picture updates of your progress when you have some.

Andreas

acdii

Sounds like you will be putting in a lot more work than me! Since the kit isnt true to scale, I am making it as close to scale, so not going to be doing panel lines or rivet detail. Besides, have 3 other planes to get finished along with this one, and flying season is quickly approaching. I was hoping to be covering my Cub by now, but have had a 3 week setback and haven't been able to finish the framework.

I am painting mine to be like the first ones in service, tri color, white on the belly, intermediate blue and sea blue. Now that I think about it, I just realized I left my color patches at home, I was going to have some mixed up today. DOH! Since it is my first warbird to fly(other than the twin otter and T-34), I am going to hold off on the operating doors until I have a few flights on it and make sure everything works correctly before adding any more hardware to it. The doors will be opened and closed by springs and the retracts, so no servos or linkages will be needed, but the doors will have to conform to the gear since they stick up a little, and will need a slight bulge where the axle and strut go. There is just not enough depth in the leading edge to sink the retracts all the way down to make the doors flush.

facia

Hi acdii,
my robart 650's coupled with the Wingspan 100deg rotating electrics actually fit quite flush into the wheel wells.
Here is a pic from mid February with a test fit of wing and fuselage.

Sorry, I don't have a better picture at the present.
Just the actual mechanical part of the retracts stick past the sheeting a bit.

Andreas

acdii

Got my paint samples made today. I got the three colors using the Model Masters paints, painted some swatches, and took them to Menards, they mixed up the paints using the swatches. The Intermediate blue came out perfect, the Sae Blue came out a touch lighter, which I believe is actually better since the Sea Blue was used later in the planes life. The original Blue used was slightly lighter in color, so I think it will be perfect. The white I found one that has a slight gray tone to it, which looks good next to the intermediate blue.

Right now I have the Corsair shelved while I finish up the Cub. I want to get it ready to cover and have to use the work bench to set the stab and do the struts and landing gear. Once I get the stab glued on I can take it back to my friend where I started building it and do the covering there, and get back to finishing the Corsair. Its ready for primer and filler.

m998hmmv

My Feedback: (2)

Gentlemen, I'm pretty far into this build and I need to get ahold of a birdcage canopy. I tried to pm Luke about his, but the message wouldn't go through. I think he's done making them anyway. So does anybody know of any other source to try getting a birdcage from?