flejter1

There is a wood block in the flap and you need to feel for it. then flip the servo arm side to match the wood block in the servo hatch. the block of wood should be to the outboard side toward the wing tip.

Hill202

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Thanks Flejter,

I felt the wood block inside. Some close up pics would be great. Did everyone else's flaps have these holes in them?

Hill202

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Leave it to a jet guy to know where the good hardware is.

Hill202

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On those control horns, you are cutting a slot and hysoling them in? I see that they are flat, no flange or lip.

http://dreamworksrc.com/catalog/airp...pe-p-1533.html

Hill202

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I'm getting ahead of myself anyway. I'm just now ordering servos. I thought I had my mind made up but when I saw how big these flaps are, I decided to go with more torque.

flejter1

Mine did not have any holes drilled in them like yours. Again, I have an older version and used the indents with Robart hinges. if you go the route I did, you want to measure twice, cut once. Mount the servo inside the cover after you figure out which way to line up with the wood blocks in the flaps, line up the control rod, cut the hole for the control rod, drill the hinge points, mount the flap but do not hysol the hinges yet, make sure they work smoothly. mark the spot for the control horn, draw a template around the control horn with an extra 3/16 around all edges, dremel out the slot for the horn and make sure you dont go through the flap, small amounts and keep test fitting the horn. watch the angle you are setting the horn so you get the best leverage to operate the flaps. make sure the hole that the push rod is coming through is big enough for the clevis attaching to the horn. when you are satisfied hysol the control horn and let it dry. if all looks good hysol the robarts into the flaps and wing. I use hysol on all the robart hinges, hysol doesn't run and holds a bead, unlike epoxy. tape the flaps to keep a small gap between the leading edge of the flaps and the trailing edge of the wing. it will also keep the hinges where you want them. I also use painters tape around the edge I dremeled out to keep the hysol neat and clean edges.

hope this helps...

Hill202

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It helps alot thanks.

kwik

Hill, I used Hitec 645's on the flaps, and an futaba MSA-10; It takes four servos on one channel, and you can progam direction and max throw, plus zero point easily just pushing a button.

Hysol is just another type of epoxy, thicker than ordinarily, the 9462 is commonly used. I got mine from Dreamworks RC.

I used the same approach as flejter on the flaps control horns.

Hill202

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Thanks Kwik. I'm going to try the hysol. I had to plug and redrill a hinge hole in the alieron. It was too big for the hinge. Several others are borderline drilled too big. Hysol sounds like just what I need to fill these holes. Either that or Gorilla glue.

That Synchronizer sounds interesting. I may have to go that route.

I was going to use Futaba 9402's on the flaps but I think they are marginal, 111oz/in @ 6 volts.

flejter1

Be careful with Gorilla glue, I never used it but I hear it expands as it drys so I don't know how good the finished product will look. What radio system are you using?

Hill202

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Yeah thats the beauty of Gorilla glue, it will expand and fill voids nicely, you just have to use it sparingly.

I use Futaba. This plane will have a 6014 rx. Setting up mutiple servos on the flaps can be done with the radio, but I've never done it.

flejter1

I set up all the mixes on my JR 12X and I'm sure Futaba is easy also. I was just concerned about Gorilla glue expanding to much and deforming or cracking the control surfaces. Trust me and buy the Hysol with the applicator gun and nozzels, (i think the combo pack is on sale) you will never use anything else after you use this stuff. You don't need to use the nozzels for the small stuff, just mix a small amount that you need, like you would epoxy. Most companys that build planes use it to glue the bulk heads and such. If you look closely at your plane, they get in a hurry and leave gaps. You should fill them in and it will make your airframe stronger and more reliable.

Hill202

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I'm going to order some. I'll experiment with it. The fact that it holds a bead sounds like just what I need on a couple of items on this plane.

I fly with a 12z.

higharc

Hill202,

Check out post #870. The lead dowels are hysoled into the cowl up front where there're supposed to be. Great stuff.

Hill202

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Yeah, I saw those pics. Your plane looks great. I like the neat and clean way you mounted that lead in the cowl. They shorted me one trim piece like the ones that you have mounted around your wheel well. That's how I want to do mine. I'm going to cut one out.

I envy you guys with the 3 pc wing. This 85" long, one piece wing with retracts is not going to be easy to transport, even in a trailer.

mmflytie

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Why do you have a one piece wing?

Hill202

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The earlier version had a aluminum wing tube, the later version has a wood joiner. I guess its possible to make it a 3 pc wing with the wood joiner but that would be a first for me. I sure would like to hear if anyone did it successfully..

mmflytie

My Feedback: (1)

I have the later version with the wood spar. I did not glue it and I have a 3 piece wing! There is a fiberglass tab that is used to secure outboard section to mid wing with a screw. There are also 2 dowels which help to line up the wing sections . Now I put in a second bolt on the trailing edge which has access for insertion thru the wheelbay to secure the outboard wing even better. If this doesn't make sense, I can send pictures. Have flown mine and it seems to be fine.
Marc

Magnum RC

As for me, I bypassed the three wing step. I don't trust chinese engineering. The overall integrity of the wing increases when it is glued together. This is especially helpful when you put over the top powerplants in your plane. My Corsair was clocked at 100MPH. I would hate it if those little tabs came unglued during flight or the G-forces in a turn sheered off one of the alignment pins. Didn't know what to think so I removed the equation by epoxying the wings together.. I guess if you don't have much room for transportation, one must weigh the pros and cons. Everybody is different, as for me,,, I wanted all the strength the design could offer. I had a wing come out once on a P-47. I was lucky to notice it was flying weird so I landed and sure enough the bolt was removing itself. Just thought I would share this experience since the wing assembly has a varying opinion status.

Hill202

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I appreciate the responses. The only way I would consider a 3pc wing is the way you did it Marc, by adding another fastener. I take it you leave the wooden spar in the center section and just slide the outer wings off the spar, right? I see where the spar is notched to go around the retracts.

You make a good point Magnum, although with this 60, I don't believe speed is going to be an issue. I can haul a one piece wing in my trailer but it's going to be somewhat cumbersome. Sometimes it is all about peace of mind. I read on this thread where someone said "use the servos that give you peace of mind". Thats how I am as well. I know that several things I do in assembling this plane or any other planes are overkill but the peace of mind can evolve into confidence in your plane and that never hurts.

Marc, when you get a chance, I'd like to see how you installed that second fastener in the wing.

Thanks

alfa1023

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Hill,

I did a similar thing as Marc - added an additional bolt/mount to hold the outer wing panels to the center wing panel. But with that said, there is no way I would do hard core aerobatics with this plane with the wing setup as a 3 piece wing. For that, I would have to go the one piece wing route (and unfortunately do not have room to transport it that way). I have other planes for that stuff anyway - for me, this is a scale flyer and only do slow/easy scale-like warbird aerobatics.

I also added some very thin pieces of tape around the edges of the outer wing panels where they butt up against the center wing - so that when everything is tightened up, there is no "flex" in the joint between the two.

And I expoxied the wooden spar into the outer wing panels.

Jim

Hill202

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Thanks Jim. Thats interesting that you epoxied the spar into the outer wing. That was one of my concerns. I was concerned that sliding the outer wing onto the spar, over time, may cause some stress to the wing. Particularly the pocket that the spar slides into.

flejter1

Hill,

I have the aluminum wing tube in mine and I left the dowel up front and used the rear dowel hole for a blind nut with a wingnut bolt through the wheelwell to secure my wing halves together and didn't use the fiber tab that came with the plane. I built the 89" Spitfire for a buddy and he is using a DLE 55 and is swinging a 20x18 APC prop @ 7200RPM and that plane runs like a stripe ed ass monkey!! (well over 100mph plane) The twin 60 puts out the same 5.5hp with a little higher max rpm. If you are going to run a 2 blade prop you should look into the APC prop.

flejter1

If anyone is interested, my company is doing prep work for moving the Space Shuttle From LAX to its new home here in Los Angeles. They sent us some cool spec drawings of the Shuttle. If you can't open the attachment let me know and I can email them.

Hill202

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I'd like to see some pics of that going down the highway! A total of 20 axles between the two trailers!