RE: Hangar 9 30cc P-47 Build Thread
 

A couple of pictures of the inner gear door servo for reference.
pic #1 shows the right main inner gear door servo mounting.
pic #2 shows the left main inner gear door servo mounting.

RE: Hangar 9 30cc P-47 Build Thread
 

Been working hard trying to get the model riveted and weathered and finished. Here are a couple of teaser pictures of the model. More info to follow in the next day or so. All riveting techniques and weathering techniques will be described here as well as a video showing the process. Real easy and took about 20 hours total to do everything.

Also for you guys that will be attending the Toledo show in April, I will have the model on static display for you to get a close up view of it. I will be around to asner any questions you might have as well.

RE: Hangar 9 30cc P-47 Build Thread
 

A couple outside in the sunlight.

RE: Hangar 9 30cc P-47 Build Thread
 

Beautiful John, I can't wait to see it in person at the Toledo show.

RE: Hangar 9 30cc P-47 Build Thread
 

SIMPLY OUTSTANDING.
Are you going to share your methods of riveting and panels [8D].

CHEERS RAAF

RE: Hangar 9 30cc P-47 Build Thread
 

Sorry for the delay guys, other things at work to handle with Toledo coming up.

So here we go.

The process is to mask off the canopy and engine compartment. I leave all the equipment installed and just clear everything. The clear coat is so light it doesn't really hurt anything.

Once everything is masked off I use a tack rag and clean off all dust. I then give the model 2 - 3 light coats of clear. This will give the covering more bite for the panel lines and chalk when we weather the model. You will note I use a heat gun on the LOW setting to help cure the flat clear quicker. I keep the heat gun about 12 inches from the surface to just circulate warm air around the freshly misted clear cote. The clear cote should dry in about 30 - 45 seconds. It will be dry to the touch, but you will still want to wait about 2 - 4 hours before handling the model.

pic #1 shows the cowling masked off so I can paint the cowl ring red. I elected to paint the entire ring red. The more I looked at photos the more I preferred the fully painted look.
pic #2 shows the engine compartment covered up and masked off for the clear coat.
pic #3 shows the canopy masked off for the clear coat.
pic #4 shows the tack rag I used. This is available at any hardware store or paint store.
pic #5 and #6 show the heat gun being used to accelerate teh drying of the clear coat.

RE: Hangar 9 30cc P-47 Build Thread
 

pic #1 shows the cowling after being sprayed with the clear coat.
pic #2 and #3 show the fuselage after being shot with a couple of coats of flat clear. You will notice the shinny covering is gone and a more matt look is present.
pic #4 shows the clear coat I used. It is Flat Lustercote from Top Flite.

This is the only flat clear I have found that is fuel proof to raw fuel. Most of the Krylons and Rustoleums are fine for the exhaust of the model, but do not hold up to raw gasoline. You can find Lustercote at your local hobby shop or here.
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXCZW4&P=ML

RE: Hangar 9 30cc P-47 Build Thread
 

Time for a few spraying tips. I have used spray can paint for years and the one trick that always helps the paint flow better is to heat it up a bit. This is done easily with a pot of hot tap water. I fill a pot with hot tap water and set the can in it. I let it stand for about 10 minutes and then pull it out and shake it for another minute. Change the water out and fill the pot again and let the paint sit in the water for another 10 minutes. Pull it out and shake for another minute and you are ready to spray. You will find the paint will flow out and sit better on your project than before.

RE: Hangar 9 30cc P-47 Build Thread
 

Panel lines!

Now pull out your three view of your P-47 and look at all those panel lines. You can elect to add more or less depending on how much you want to draw. I put most of the lines on the model. This is done with a basic #2 yellow pencil. Keep it sharp or your lines will become thick in no time. I use a number of different rulers for the job, a 6 inch, 12 inch, 18 inch, 24 inch, and 36 inch yardstick. For the most part my 12, 18, and 24 inch rulers are the stainless steel type with the cork backing. The cork backing keeps the ruler off the surface which ensures it doesn't dent the model. The stainless rulers also are able to be bent around the model pretty well.
http://www.officedepot.com/a/product...teel-Ruler-12/

The 3 pictures show the panel lines on the wing and the same is done on the fuselage. Line the entire model and be careful when handling the model. The pencil dust can smudge. At any time you find you have made a mistake you can erase the line gently and make a new one. Once all the lines are done you can begin to rivet the model.

RE: Hangar 9 30cc P-47 Build Thread
 

Next I wanted to add a few little details to help bring the model to life. Nothing crazy just simple stuff. First was the cowl flaps. They need to be better defined. So using a Dremel 409 cutoff wheel I cut the edges of the cowl flaps . One done I then ran some 220 grit sandpaper between them to clean up the edges. I also cut the cowl flaps in the top of the cowl that were not molded into the model. Simple and easy this helps bring the front of the model to life.

pic #1 shows cutting each cowl flap side with the Dremel tool and cutoff wheel.
pic #2 shows cleaning up the edges with some 220 grit sandpaper.
pic #3 shows the cowl flaps all cut loose and the more scale effect that has come to life because of it.

RE: Hangar 9 30cc P-47 Build Thread
 

We have had several guys here use the LK Flat Clear only to have it turn brown after being in the sun for a few weekends. Also, I read the rumor where LK is being discontinued.

RE: Hangar 9 30cc P-47 Build Thread
 

Next were the tie downs that are located on the leading edge of the horizontal stab. These are done using some G-10 material. If you don't have any of this you can get some from Frank Tiano models.
Here is the link.

http://www.franktiano.com/scaleproduct.htm

Once there click on the G-10 Fiberglass sheets on the left. I used .010 thick stock for this. This stuff is great to have in the shop for all kinds of building ideas. Check it out and give Frank a call.

So I cut these out and drilled a small hole in them to where it looked about right from my pictures. This just adds another bit of life to the tail of the model. I then made a slit in the leading edge and glued them in place with some Thin Zap. After that I painted them with Testor's Model Master Aluminum paint.

pic #1 shows a close up of the tie down on the leading edge of the stab. There is one of these on each stab.
pic #2 shows a more distant view to capture the look of the entire stab.

RE: Hangar 9 30cc P-47 Build Thread
 

John it's looking '' Wicked''

RE: Hangar 9 30cc P-47 Build Thread
 

Thanks man. Not bad for an Ultra Coted monster.:D

RE: Hangar 9 30cc P-47 Build Thread
 

<span lang="EN">

Hey John,</p>

Wow! I love the detail you’re putting into this bird, you make it look so easy.</p>

After looking at your videos and reading through the manual, I see what you are saying about the tail wheel area being kind of cramped for room. Installing tail wheel doors will definitely take some thought.</p>

On another note, I’m giving some thought to making the bomb &amp; fuel tank pylons operational. There is just something about dumping the tank and then coming back around to pickle off the bombs on a target.:D</p>

Umm… takes me back to the good ol days in the AF.:eek:</p></span>

RE: Hangar 9 30cc P-47 Build Thread
 

Hey Cris,

I understand the thought of dropping the bombs and fuel tank and how cool that would be. It would definitely be doable on this one. I elected not to because I wanted to save some time. A number of other projects behind this one.

The plane has really come to life in the end and I am quite happy with the results. Wait till you see the weathering video. I think it will show you just how easy it really is.

RE: Hangar 9 30cc P-47 Build Thread
 

I like the detail work but one has to wonder what they were thinking having the tie down that far out on the stab....leverage people, leverage....

RE: Hangar 9 30cc P-47 Build Thread
 

The main tie downs are on the gear legs Dave. I still wonder the same thing. My best guess is a couple of tie downs done lightly to keep the tail on the ground.

RE: Hangar 9 30cc P-47 Build Thread
 

John,

I think the "tie-downs" on the tips of the stabilizer may be brackets for radio antenna wires from the fuse, not actual tie-downs to hold the aircraft. But that is a guess. Great job on making a fun airplane look very nice.

Scot

RE: Hangar 9 30cc P-47 Build Thread
 

Hey Scot,

You might be dead on correct. Never thought of that. Thanks for the input. I will continue to research these and see if I can find some actual info on them.

Very good point bud.

RE: Hangar 9 30cc P-47 Build Thread
 

So how do you make rivets on a plastic iron on film model? It isn't hard at all.

First thing you do is buy a bag of K&S tubing scraps. I buy one of these every now and then to have some "stuff" in the shop. There is always a need for some scrap tubing somewhere in a scale model.
http://www.horizonhobby.com/products...ortment-K~S320

Next you need to determine what size the rivets would be on the full scale aircraft and then scale them down to what size they should be on the model. For the mode part, structural rivets are in the 1/4" - 3/8" head diameter size. The best way would be to find a subject and then measure the rivets. As there were no P-47's at my local airport and I was running out of days off to travel to the Air Force Museum to check a real P-47 I decided to wing it. Let's face it we are looking for something that looks cool and probably won't be attending Top Gun with our Ultracoted P-47.

If I measure out a 1/4" rivet head to 1/6 scale it would end up having a head diameter of .042" of an inch.

If I measure out a 3/8" rivet head to 1/6 scale it would end up having a head diameter of .0625" of an inch.

Also we have larger Dzus fasteners on the cowling and a few other panels of the aircraft. These head diameters can be around 7/16 - 1/2" on the full scale.

If I measure out a 31/2" Dzus head to 1/6 scale it would end up having a head diameter of .083" of an inch.

I now know my sizes of the rivet tools I need to make. I will make one that is around .060' and one that is .090" in diameter. These aren't perfect but should deliver a realistic effect that will be pleasing to the eye.

pic #1 shows my left over bag of tubing pieces that I make my rivet tools from.

RE: Hangar 9 30cc P-47 Build Thread
 

Time to build the rivet tools.

pic #1 shows how I have built up or down through telescoping tubing the correct rivet tool for the model. These are soldered together.
pic #2 shows a head on view of the two different tools showing the difference in diameter.

The base of each tool is 1/4" tubing.

RE: Hangar 9 30cc P-47 Build Thread
 

We will use a Hangar 9 Pro Trim Sealing Tool to rivet. This works great on iron on covering. Unscrew the "shoe that you use for covering and place the rivet tool of your choice into the end of the trim iron. Tighten both screws and set the tool to high. Plug it in and let it heat up. You will be ready to rivet in no time.

You will also note the "binder clip" that has been positioned on the tool to allow you to hold onto the iron without burning your fingers. This gives much better control of the tool over and on the model. You can find these at Office Depot or any other office supply store.
http://www.officedepot.com/a/product...er-Clips-1-14/

RE: Hangar 9 30cc P-47 Build Thread
 

Next you will need a small piece of music wire to clean the tool as it will get clogged with the clear cote over time and possibly even some of the Ultracote if you press to hard in one or two locations. So find a piece of wire that fits inside and keep it close. You will need it during the riveting process.

pic #1 and #2 show the wire piece both inserted and just laying next to the tool. Keep this close by you will use it allot.

RE: Hangar 9 30cc P-47 Build Thread
 

You will want to sharpen the ends of the tubing and this is done with sandpaper. Work this easy so as to not damage the end of the tubing. You will need to touch the end up occasional with sandpaper through the job as well.