I noticed the outer gear door was very loose around the hinge on one side. CARF used 4mm brass tubing for the hinge pins on the inner and otter gear doors. On one wing, the pin had slid almost completely out. The total hinge length is ~45mm but the pin was less then 38mm so it only had about 1-2mm holding it on one side of the hinge. So I had to cut a new pin to 45mm and the door is much firmer. Same for the inner gear door, except this door just came off only slightly shaking it. So going to cut a longer pin for the inner door and glue a stop so the pin can't slide out. Strange that this problem was only on one wing. the other wing was fine

Here's the inner gear door. you can see the pin was barely holding the door on.

The gear are sierra. They really look nice and almost a straight drop-in install. some sanding of the rail mounts and sides, but that was about it. CARF did a great job adding the CF support to the inside of mount aera at the factory. the whole mounting of the gear is really solid. As recommended, had to cut a notch out of the gear mounting rail, since it interfered with outer door hinge, taking away one screw hole on the gear.

Installed inner and outer gear doors and added the inner door cylinder. I like the CARF design of not having the hatch for the flap servo. It gives a real clean look on the underside of the wing. Just added a nylon spacer so the wheel to be more aligned with the strut.

Nice build!

looking forward to engine-installation :-)

Tom

Well.. The engine installation should start soon. I decided on the IL-230 and it should ship by tomorrow. Since this is my first Kolm, I'll probably place it on a test stand for the first few runs.

The engine showed up today. All I can say is WOW... I understand now why the attention to aft weight is required. Heavy engine... It is much larger than I thought it would be. Below is a picture of the IL-230 next to my Moki 300cc.

Congratulation! Awesome combination :)

Had time to work on the GG. I decided to take a few ideas from folks and I placed air valves for the doors and gear inside the wing along with the air tank. I then built two small boxes that are recessed into the wing surface. One for the gear valve and one for the tail wheel airlines to connect when assembling. I decided to use a JMP high volume air valve for the gear. Old school, but I never had giant scale gear hang on me. I used a Xicoy e-valve for the inner doors that I installed into one of the wheel wells. Suggestion from CARF's photos they sent. When the wings together I think it's a nicer and cleaner look on the out side and easier to attach wings at the field.

Also have just one connection for servos for each wing.

Looking good have you thought about fuel tank placement yet?

Hey TBruce. I've been thinking about that as well as the size of the tank. Talking to Gotz vogelsang, he felt 1.5 L (50oz) would be about right for 8-10 of flying. I guess this IL-230 will burn fuel. My Moki just sips it. So anyone with input as to the size tank, it would be appreciate. As for placement, I was thinking about right over the CG or basically centering over the wing tube,. I'll set the tank in there an take a picture. 50oz is about 2.5 pounds of fuel, so I thought would be best location, also limits any CG swing from takeoff weight to landing.

I installed the fuel tank behind the firewall which turns out to be in front of the instrument panel on the regular D model. I have the 150 3 cylinder installed. So the plane will have a slight CG shift in flight from nose heavy to more neutral by landing. I have all the RC stuff in the tail mostly and the air system split up. With this much added weight its not easy to just place things without some planning. Im installing a full cockpit so I had to make a compromise. Maybe in the Ghost its not necessary since there isn't much of a cockpit to be seen.

Hi Chris,

Great input, appreciate it. I was planning to get as much other equipment as far back as possible, and still get access to it. The IL-230 is over 16lbs out of the box. So significant weight up front. I'll get a rough CG once I'm able to mount the engine. I was missing the forward mounting plate for it, so won't be able to work on install until next week.

I think I'm going with a Dubro 50 oz rectangular tank, and use the BVM high-flow fuel cap with 3/16 brass tubing for the larger tygon. I tried fitting a 1.5 Liter bottle, but the dubro will be easier to install. I placed a vacuum tube extension in the picture just to show the location of the wing tube. I'll build a simple frame. As you thought Chris, I won't be installing a cockpit, so it gives me more options for internal installation.

The rear gear doors really had a large bow in them, almost 5 mm in the center. So I cut 2 plywood strips for each door and epoxied to inner part of the door. It really stiffened them up. Now the doors closes nice and flat. I'll then sand and paint the inner part for the doors.

Looks very good!

1.5l is for sure enough. I installed 0.75l in Voodoo with IL150.

Tom

Received the kolm mounting hardware. They sent 4 standoffs and a front mount bracket to support the engine. The 4 standoffs will need to be drilled 6 mm so the threaded 6mm bolt will slide through. They were not specifically design for this and had different threads on each end. So, obviously that won't for this setup, without boring them out. . I then drilled ( 5.5 mm) and tapped the four mounting holes on the engine. The 6mm mounting bolt will push through from inside of the firewall and thread into the engine.

Set up plane and ran a gear test. I shorted the sequence by 1 second between the inner doors and the gear cycle then what's in the video.

tail wheel test. this was before I straightened the doors, so they look a little warped in video

Test fitted the engine. It's definitely not a one person job. I did manage to get it in, but extremely awkward to hold and try to bolt. But between the CARF install kit and the Kolm install kit, they seemed to nail the positioning of the spinner back plate. The gap between the spinner back plate is nice and tight, but not too tight. So, the aluminium stand off and one of the spacer washer fits as they designed. I wanted to put the engine on a test stand prior to installing. Not sure, may just install. I have to admit it does look intimidating with the prop on.

The small alu standoffs was designed to work with the rubber-mounts. the 5mm goes to the engine and the 6mm takes the rubber-mount. this is why the have 2 different threads inside.
but . you found a solution for that :-)

Looks awesome! would be cool to find out how big the difference is depending on power output from your prop to Ramoser Varioprop. the varioprop blades looks much more scale ...but the performance, i dont know.

Tom

Hi Tom. I felt this way by having a 6mm bolt all the way through gave a real solid mount for the engine.

I haven't seen much on how others are running the fuel lines for these. I went with the large tygon fuel tubing and festo 6mm T's. I plan to install an APS fuel pump as well to give more of a constant flow at all throttle settings. So, before I wire-tie all the tygon connection points, I'd be curious to get your input on that. Rob

Perfect !
I Do the same all time long. Tygon and festo-T or Y is a solid combination.

Fuel pump is also working, as long as the fuel pump works :)
on Voodoo I install an airpressure bottle. Simple, cheap an never fails because no electronic and no mechanic parts :)

tom

Tom, you have to show me how you set up the air pressure bottle. I'd be interested in see that. Rob