Eighth Scale Aviation Tsunami 517" build
03-14-2016, 05:15 PM
#76
Would it be an issue if I glass the rest of the wing after already glassing the center?
I would like to have a fully glassed wing at this point and it appeared very easy. I will still cover my fuse, but would like the added strength to the wing and the hassle free cover of wrinkles and such too. My fuses stay pretty tight, its usually the wing that plays hide n seek.
I would like to have a fully glassed wing at this point and it appeared very easy. I will still cover my fuse, but would like the added strength to the wing and the hassle free cover of wrinkles and such too. My fuses stay pretty tight, its usually the wing that plays hide n seek.
Beings the center section has already cured, technically, you are looking at a mechanical bond, rather than a chemical bond. But, beings glassing the remainder is primarily a finishing method, rather than any kind of true structural reinforcement or structural part fabrication, that really is not an issue, at all.
So, I say . . . GO FOR IT!
Another recommendation I offer is using Pacer's Z-Poxy Finishing Resin for fiberglassing with lightweight cloth as an alternative to iron-on covering material, utilizing this method. This resin's viscosity makes it easier to work with in this application. It wets-out the cloth REALLY well and sands easier than any other epoxy I have yet used. I also prefer to apply to larger surfaces (such as an entire wing) with a mini 1 1/2 - 2" paint roller. This won't snag the fragile light cloth the way that some disposable brushes do.
(Please make sure it is their "Finishing Resin", not their 30-minute or similar bonding epoxies. Please also note that Finishing Resin is specially formulated for finish-work purposes, but would therefore NOT be appropriate to use in fabrication.)
Last edited by Iron Dog; 03-14-2016 at 05:24 PM.
03-15-2016, 04:36 PM
#77
I too used a roller to apply the epoxy on wing center section, versus a brush, then once evenly applied, I squeggied out excess.
I will be using the TP method from now on, less messy, wont pull the strands loose on the edges, and just appears to be a lighter - cleaner over all application.
Thanks guys
I will be using the TP method from now on, less messy, wont pull the strands loose on the edges, and just appears to be a lighter - cleaner over all application.
Thanks guys
03-16-2016, 06:41 PM
#78
Why wouldnt someone be able to simply use a roller and epoxy only , no cloth, on the wing now that the strength part is accomplished?
Why would it require light cloth if all I was after was a base for paint?
I would consider rolling epoxy on the rest of the wing and the fuse but adding the cloth is a step I am wondering if its needed for cosmetic purposes rather than structural ones?
Why would it require light cloth if all I was after was a base for paint?
I would consider rolling epoxy on the rest of the wing and the fuse but adding the cloth is a step I am wondering if its needed for cosmetic purposes rather than structural ones?
03-16-2016, 08:21 PM
#80
No one says you have to do anything.
Keep in mind, when applying the cloth, you only want to leave just the amount of epoxy needed to bond the fabric to the surface. Any more epoxy than that is excess weight.
Once the initial application is cured, the surface is sealed and the second application just fills the weave a bit.
A wet roller will not remove the desired amount of excess epoxy.
Do as you like.
Keep in mind, when applying the cloth, you only want to leave just the amount of epoxy needed to bond the fabric to the surface. Any more epoxy than that is excess weight.
Once the initial application is cured, the surface is sealed and the second application just fills the weave a bit.
A wet roller will not remove the desired amount of excess epoxy.
Do as you like.
03-16-2016, 10:01 PM
#81
Forgot to mention,
I prefer to use a disposable acid brush as I waste less epoxy in the application process.
A larger brush or a roller has to be itself saturated to a point with the epoxy before it actually works to apply the epoxy to your project.
Helps make the material go a bit further.
I prefer to use a disposable acid brush as I waste less epoxy in the application process.
A larger brush or a roller has to be itself saturated to a point with the epoxy before it actually works to apply the epoxy to your project.
Helps make the material go a bit further.
Last edited by Tommy_Gun; 03-17-2016 at 12:28 PM.
03-17-2016, 04:49 AM
#82
Thx guys
Yea I wasnt going to use the roller to remove excess
I was just wondering why the cloth was needed if it wasnt for structural integrity
I am a fan of the TP method.
I am going to use it somewhere on this Tsunami, probably the wing.
Im looking at doing the fuse as well before I go too much further as it is a great shape for this, not many curves or angles for a rookie to try it on.
You guys are a great help = thx again
Yea I wasnt going to use the roller to remove excess
I was just wondering why the cloth was needed if it wasnt for structural integrity
I am a fan of the TP method.
I am going to use it somewhere on this Tsunami, probably the wing.
Im looking at doing the fuse as well before I go too much further as it is a great shape for this, not many curves or angles for a rookie to try it on.
You guys are a great help = thx again
03-17-2016, 05:21 AM
#83
Join Date: Jun 2002
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Marty,
Just saturating the wood will also give undesirable results due to sanding through in some spots while sanding the epoxy. The same thing can happen with cloth it is just easier to spot. The lightweight cloth provides a smoother base for the finishing steps.
Once the cloth is attached, the next steps will determine what your finish looks like. Filling the weave with resin is much better than filling it with paint. A nice smooth base will provide the best results when painting or even covering.
DK
Just saturating the wood will also give undesirable results due to sanding through in some spots while sanding the epoxy. The same thing can happen with cloth it is just easier to spot. The lightweight cloth provides a smoother base for the finishing steps.
Once the cloth is attached, the next steps will determine what your finish looks like. Filling the weave with resin is much better than filling it with paint. A nice smooth base will provide the best results when painting or even covering.
DK
03-27-2016, 07:47 PM
#85
I made a decision and ordered the finishing resin instead of monokoting. I will lay 3/4 oz and resin mixed with equal amounts of alcohol to thin it out so it stays as light as possible. After the wing is done, I will determine what I want to do with the fuse.
I saw a video that virtually eliminates the fraying of the cloth. By laying the cloth well over the edges and glassing the cloth a bit beyond where you need it, it will cut off to a clean edge. I made the mistake of pre cutting the cloth to come up just shy of the outer edges.
Im wanting this to be under 8.75 lbs when done. A weight of 8.25 would be fantastic.
Im excited to return home and get going on this as it is on the downhill side of things now.
Servos have been ordered and all components are either there waiting or on there way.
I am already throwing around the idea of getting the smaller Tsunami for the new YS80. I believe that would be a great Gold plane, and I already have almost everything needed to build it. Just a few pieces of sheeting needed and more time. Wish I could buy some time.
I saw a video that virtually eliminates the fraying of the cloth. By laying the cloth well over the edges and glassing the cloth a bit beyond where you need it, it will cut off to a clean edge. I made the mistake of pre cutting the cloth to come up just shy of the outer edges.
Im wanting this to be under 8.75 lbs when done. A weight of 8.25 would be fantastic.
Im excited to return home and get going on this as it is on the downhill side of things now.
Servos have been ordered and all components are either there waiting or on there way.
I am already throwing around the idea of getting the smaller Tsunami for the new YS80. I believe that would be a great Gold plane, and I already have almost everything needed to build it. Just a few pieces of sheeting needed and more time. Wish I could buy some time.
04-05-2016, 03:36 PM
#89
Since I decided to try glassing, (I didnt think I would on this particular plane). I opted for the Z poxy finishing resin, 3/4 oz cloth, and the toilet paper method. I used a hobby brush to brush it all on, then laid out charmin 2 ply quilted unscented not on sale high dollar toilet paper, then I dabbed it lightly with hand let it sit for a bit then used a roller to roll it out with TP still on there. I started in middle for everything I did, and just kept rolling to the outside. It turned out amazing.
Glad the wife isnt here this trip, as I used her high end TP, her paper bowls for this part. I have access to all the household items of my choosing.
Glad she's not an RCU member.
Glad the wife isnt here this trip, as I used her high end TP, her paper bowls for this part. I have access to all the household items of my choosing.
Glad she's not an RCU member.
04-05-2016, 07:58 PM
#91
That's why I like this method.
If I can make it work, anyone can do it.
And, it's open to tweaking for what the individual prefers to do.
As long as it looked almost dry after the first application. That's how you prevent excess weight buildup.
If I can make it work, anyone can do it.
And, it's open to tweaking for what the individual prefers to do.
As long as it looked almost dry after the first application. That's how you prevent excess weight buildup.
04-06-2016, 07:34 PM
#93
I have all the misc parts done now front and back.
I discovered if you take the resin and go beyond the surface you are trying to adhere into the cloth more, it cuts better w/o fraying.
I will scrape with a razor blade tomorrow and sand if needed and it will be ready for primer/paint.
Still waiting for cloth to do top of wing and fuse.
Once the glassing is done, primed and painted- Ill finish the assembly of tank install, aileron servos and linkage and then figure out the front cowl/engine install.
I discovered if you take the resin and go beyond the surface you are trying to adhere into the cloth more, it cuts better w/o fraying.
I will scrape with a razor blade tomorrow and sand if needed and it will be ready for primer/paint.
Still waiting for cloth to do top of wing and fuse.
Once the glassing is done, primed and painted- Ill finish the assembly of tank install, aileron servos and linkage and then figure out the front cowl/engine install.
04-10-2016, 06:16 AM
#95
Finally got the fuse glassed as well as the top of the wing. I did the fuse in one piece and it was pretty simple as there werent any turtle decks to deal with.......
I could see in that scenario, one would want to do the turtle deck first in its own piece of cloth (that is if you use the cloth I did) but perhaps there is cloth that does corners and contours better than what I used?
Thx for the putting the seed of suggestion in me to go this route, I feel much more confident in the longevity of this plane in a racing environment on high nitro now.
I could see in that scenario, one would want to do the turtle deck first in its own piece of cloth (that is if you use the cloth I did) but perhaps there is cloth that does corners and contours better than what I used?
Thx for the putting the seed of suggestion in me to go this route, I feel much more confident in the longevity of this plane in a racing environment on high nitro now.
05-04-2016, 08:26 PM
#96
Spent the afternoon out working on the Tsunami. Got the fule system 100% finished incl the fuel dots. I also got the RX mounted, JR HD on/off switch installed, throttle servo in and plumbed and programmed, all hatches in place, cowl mounted, needle hole cut out, Horz stab epoxied in.
It is more like an ARF now which is fine by me. It has been a long busy winter, I'm glad I decided to build this.
It is more like an ARF now which is fine by me. It has been a long busy winter, I'm glad I decided to build this.
05-06-2016, 03:59 AM
#100
The Tsunami in the Unlimited class was plane to have in the 90's. Today it is either the Stiletto, Ashley or the Yak.
All 3 are great planes. I may jump back into it next year if things slow down enough to fit it in. The group of racers is currently smaller than in years past, but the competition is highest its been. No easy heats, all planes very equal. Let's do it !!
All 3 are great planes. I may jump back into it next year if things slow down enough to fit it in. The group of racers is currently smaller than in years past, but the competition is highest its been. No easy heats, all planes very equal. Let's do it !!