Gill

I have seen various methods to attach plug-in wings to the main body or wing section- from metal spades to metal tubes sliding into phenolic tubes, and combinations.

What is your favorite method? And where do you obtain the parts when you do a scratch build?

Goggles

My Feedback: (4)

I use aluminum wing tubes that slide through the fuse. I then install a dowel or small block in the wing root drilled out for a 1/4-20 nylon bolt. I then install a small plate on the inside of the fuse to the bulkhead and fuse where the bolt will go. Locate and drill hole in fuse to match the hole in the wing root.
When I slide the wing on, I simple tighten the nylon bolt from the inside of the fuse. On larger models (30%+) I would have two bolts holding it on.
I'm doing this on my 1/4 Extra 300's. It holds the wing on extremely well and tight to the fuse.

Hope this help you.

Kelvin.

steveo64

My Feedback: (6)

Hi Gill, I have ordered wing tubes from Gator R/C in the past and they worked well. I have also used aluminum tube (Home Depot) and a dowel. The Gator tubes are a tighter fit.

Steve

AlphaWhisky

My scratch-built 100" wingspan Extra 230 has one 1 1/2" diameter ali tube through the fuselage into phenolic tubes which are epoxied between the main spars.

Towards the rear of the wing (between the rear spars) I have a 3/4" diameter hardwood dowel that locates through and is glued rock-solid into the first two ribs of each wing. This dowel projects barely 3/8" through the fuselage sides - each side - and is accurately located with a plywood doubler also epoxied to the inside of each fuselage side - total thickness here 1/4".

I have a solid cup-hook screwed into the end of each of these rear alignment dowels and stretch at least 4 rubberbands between the hooks on each side.

I understand that the Sig 'Somethin` Extra' uses a similar method and have also seen it used on at least one of the big TOC machines.

Mine has been thrown around something awful for the past two years and never looked like letting go.

I trust this helps.

Alan W

budcop

My Feedback: (23)

Hi Gill, the cardboard tube and aluminum tube have worked rather well for me in 100" wings, the same used by Top-flite on their Stinson model, I have looked at the Gaitor r/c set up and it is very appealing.....Bud

Campy

My Feedback: (1)

I use brass tube in the rib jig holes in the wing and slightly smaller piano wire in the fuselage (1/4" od brass tube with 7/32 wire) or wing center section (3 piece wings) held together with brass straps and 6-32 or 8-32 screws. For me, it solves the problem of making sure the alignment holes for the tube and rod are correct and also drilling more holes in the ribs. The bolts may not be as fancy, but it is strong and inexpensive.

Gill

I have looked into the wing tubes by Gaiter and TnT. I am going to use two tubes w/phenolic sleeves, 7/8" and 5/8" in a new jet design with removable wings similar in size to a BobCat.

Thanks for all the input.

Darrinc

My Feedback: (5)

Troy Built Models have a really nice carbon fiber wing tube. Very stiff, resiliant and should help dampen any high frequency vibration in the airframe. Plus it also comes with a great warrenty!!!

Darrin Cash

pukinbuzzard

I'm scratch building a 100" extra right now. I'll be using a 1.5" wing tube w/phenolic sockets (which I got from Gator R/C).

if you are trying the wing-tubes for the first time, you might consider the anodized ones. I personally don't like all the black that comes off on your hand (and gets smudged on the covering) when you don't have an anodized aluminum tube.

For a 100" wingspan, how long a tube are you guys using?


David

irishcarbomb

My Feedback: (4)

what about the lenghth of a tube for a 58" wing? can it be too long?

rob o'

AlphaWhisky

I just went out and checked the tube system on my 'Ace' lookalike Extra 230 with the ST 4500.

The 1 1/2" dia tube I used is 36" long and the fuselage at that point is 8" wide.

I copied the wing construction system as used on the big Ulery Laser of 20 odd years ago - i.e. 1/2" thick foam ribs at around 6" centres and wire-cut in situ on the building board. I have 1/4" square hardwood spars running full-length of the wing above and below the phenolic tubeswhich are keyed to the spars with 1/4" filler blocks between the ribs, and the whole thing is locked up with a mess of epoxy.

It hasn`t even looked like letting go in nigh on two years of use.

I trust this helps.

Alan W