Box Opening, Value Gear
#1
Thread Starter
Box Opening, Value Gear
$23.25 delivered to my house. I'm happy with them, but I still think the cost of these types of things is way too high. Of course, I'm known as a Cheap Buzzard so maybe it's just me.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZWxrsIonf7g&feature=youtu.be
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZWxrsIonf7g&feature=youtu.be
#3
Thread Starter
The upper surface is very good, but I'm not sure I like this "open mold" thing. Are the bottoms supposed to look like this? All that flash around the outside? I'm hoping our resident resin guru (Ausf) is watching and will check out the photo and give me his opinion. Something tells me Jeff would scrap these pieces, but I know he's used to the figure painting community and they're a lot more demanding when it comes to quality (at the prices they pay I'd be demanding, too).
Last edited by Crius; 03-25-2017 at 06:31 AM.
#4
There's nothing wrong with open molds as long as the underside is not going to be seen and they are filled consistently without bubbling. I generally don't cast like that because under vacuum, it would be a nightmare for me. If if looks good, by all means, more power to him.
In terms of price, I think 14 pieces for $24 shipped is a heck of a deal.
Keep in mind, the materials aren't cheap, I just spent about $400 on resin and silicone in the past two weeks. Just by eyeballing what you dumped out of that bag, my guess it's about 200-250ml. Going with 200, that means less than 20 set per gallon. The resin I use is a little over a $100 a gallon shipped. So, you're looking about $5 a set and that doesn't include the silicone for the mold (stuff I use is over $200 per gallon kit shipped).
If you think of it another way, ask yourself how long would it take you to make your own tarp (or 14 of them), then ask if $24 is worth your time.
In terms of price, I think 14 pieces for $24 shipped is a heck of a deal.
Keep in mind, the materials aren't cheap, I just spent about $400 on resin and silicone in the past two weeks. Just by eyeballing what you dumped out of that bag, my guess it's about 200-250ml. Going with 200, that means less than 20 set per gallon. The resin I use is a little over a $100 a gallon shipped. So, you're looking about $5 a set and that doesn't include the silicone for the mold (stuff I use is over $200 per gallon kit shipped).
If you think of it another way, ask yourself how long would it take you to make your own tarp (or 14 of them), then ask if $24 is worth your time.
#5
My Feedback: (1)
Value Gear is from right here in good old AZ and those parts are basically my fault as I badgered him quite a bit for larger stowage sets from all the 1/48 and 1/35 I bought from him. I sent him a Tamiya Sherman Upper hull so as one day to maybe get larger sets like the bundles he makes for all other scales. If you didn't know, ASUKA has started selling 1/35 Shermans with custom Value Gear detail sets included.
I love this guy!!!
I love this guy!!!
#6
Thread Starter
Thanks for the info, Jeff. You're kinda my guy for all things resin, so I appreciate your opinion.
Overall I really like the products, I just wish they didn't have the flat spot on the bottom. It's easily hidden in most situations, though, so overall I'm quite satisfied with my purchase. I'll post some more photos once they're installed on tanks.
Overall I really like the products, I just wish they didn't have the flat spot on the bottom. It's easily hidden in most situations, though, so overall I'm quite satisfied with my purchase. I'll post some more photos once they're installed on tanks.
Last edited by Crius; 03-25-2017 at 06:32 AM.
#7
Lay a sheet of sandpaper on a table or glass (or glass table) an just rub it back and forth until it's as flat as you want it. If you use coarse paper like 100-200, you'll get a rough surface that'll give the glue an area to grab.
The rough area is where the resin is wicking by capillary action around the rim. Plus the surface tension breaks when it cures, so it drops a bit. I hear you that you don't like it, I usually don't either but in this case if poses no issue.
It's actually harder to cast that way in my opinion since you really have to be on top of how much your filling it. If you overfill, then the chunk becomes too thick to easily sand. basically it's harder to design a mold that isn't open, but it's easier to cast in.
If you sand them, to avoid dust, keep a bowl of water next to it, dunk a piece, sand, dunk and check. Technically resin is inert once set, but the particles can be particularly irritating and isocynates trigger sensitizing in the lungs, so no need to go out of your way to expose them to it.
The up side to what you have there is you can readily see he casting bubble free, you're not going to have a monster void lurking under the surface.
The rough area is where the resin is wicking by capillary action around the rim. Plus the surface tension breaks when it cures, so it drops a bit. I hear you that you don't like it, I usually don't either but in this case if poses no issue.
It's actually harder to cast that way in my opinion since you really have to be on top of how much your filling it. If you overfill, then the chunk becomes too thick to easily sand. basically it's harder to design a mold that isn't open, but it's easier to cast in.
If you sand them, to avoid dust, keep a bowl of water next to it, dunk a piece, sand, dunk and check. Technically resin is inert once set, but the particles can be particularly irritating and isocynates trigger sensitizing in the lungs, so no need to go out of your way to expose them to it.
The up side to what you have there is you can readily see he casting bubble free, you're not going to have a monster void lurking under the surface.
#8
Thread Starter
Thanks, Jeff, I have some 150 wet-or-dry that should work well. I'll follow your advice and I think the pieces will be great once complete.
I'm not in any way trying to knock Value Gear, the parts are very well detailed and overall I'm quite happy with them. The only thing I don't like about the flat is that it would be slightly visible through the bottom of the basket, but careful placement should take care of that.
And let me take the opportunity to thank you, Jeff, for all the help you've given me along the way. You're one of my favorite sources for dependable and useful info in this hobby.
I'm not in any way trying to knock Value Gear, the parts are very well detailed and overall I'm quite happy with them. The only thing I don't like about the flat is that it would be slightly visible through the bottom of the basket, but careful placement should take care of that.
And let me take the opportunity to thank you, Jeff, for all the help you've given me along the way. You're one of my favorite sources for dependable and useful info in this hobby.
#10
Thread Starter
I have to admit to ignorance here ... what's 80D mean? And what's "shore hardness"? In the machining industry I use the Rockwell scale to determine the hardness of metal (anything under 20 is pretty soft, where anything over about 50 means I'll have to use ceramic or CBN inserts), is it similar to that? I'm always up for learning new stuff, so please enlighten me, Jeff.
#11
Shore and Rockwell are similar, 80D is like 70 in Rockwell. Styrene is 75D.
I think Shore is mainly used to rate Rubber, all silicones are rated in it, resin is in Shore, tensile strength, compression and heat deflection.
I think Shore is mainly used to rate Rubber, all silicones are rated in it, resin is in Shore, tensile strength, compression and heat deflection.
#12
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Join Date: Feb 2010
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Im glad that I saw this post, was looking for a place to get stuff like this. Sounds like a great deal on that stuff, Just ordered the same kit. looking forward to getting it and setting it up on my Leo. Thanks Crius...
Last edited by sgtparker01; 03-27-2017 at 09:26 AM.