stringcheese

First, is there a thread dedicated to the Traxxas Blast?

I am an experienced RC racer/enthusiast (race weekly, 20+ years in hobby). I recently purchased my first boat, a Traxxas Blast, for my son to run during a family vacation. My first test run ended with an engine temp well over 270 degrees F. This was after only about 5 minutes run time. I added the water cooling coil and ran it for another test. After only about 5 minutes I brought it back into shore and the engine was still very hot but only about 220 degrees. Traxxas is sending a new motor as mine burnt out. I believe the boat is over propped. The boat has a 3/16 drive shaft which will not allow me to install a small prop. I'm working on a conversion to a 1/8 shaft, but before I do, will it be easier to just swap to a different turn motor? Will a higher turn motor be better? I could also use some help on which prop/motor (brushed) combo for my conversion. If anyone has had experience with this boat please let me know how you improved it.
Thank you!
Mike

drivedog

Try this:
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...529X&search=Go

sheograth

Does it use the Traxxas Titan? If so I'd swap the motor out for something else, those things are nothing but trouble in cars and trucks - I can't see them being good in boats either. They're plenty powerful but they don't last long or run as reliably as other motors from my experience.

Redrider598

Hey all,

I just bought a blast too and I am not happy at all with the performance. After about 5 mins the red wire un-soldered itself from the motor. I would assume from the heat. I have heard of the water cooling system but what else can i do to get speed and lower temps out of the boat? I called Traxxas and they said there was not much i could do. The ESC will not handle a faster motor. HELP!!!!!

Thanks.

stringcheese

Ok. I just traded a friend for a top of the line Liquid Cooled marine speed control and put a cheap $20 21t double Venom Fire ball motor into the blast. About a $170 upgrade. The foam battey holder was against the endbell of the motor and overheated it enough for the com' to come apart. My Team Orion 3800 2S lipo read 7.8V after the meltdown. (BTW the Traxxas speed control fried itself at the same time the factory motor did). Before you flame me about using a lipo, I called traxxas before using it and they said it would be fine. And just to watch I don't run the lipo down because there was no Lipo Cut off. They also told me the speed control was good to a 16 turn motor.

I thought the 21T would be a better choice with more torque. Until the motor came apart it was a much faster boat. I don't know if it was the speed control or the higher quality motor (even though there are more turns in it). Put the liquid cooling kit on and the can was relatively cool when the endbell let go.

Traxxas customer support had a smart answer for everything. Their condisending tone and general lack of any personal compassion was enough for me to decide this will be my final Traxxas purchase. While they did replace the motor, this will not fix the problem.

For anyone who is intrested I will continue to post my experiences with this boat. I expect I'll have the formula for the motor worked out soon.

If anyone has figured out how to install a real marine engine please let me know. Using car engines in boats sucks.

stringcheese

I know about the converter. The problem is there is no 3/16" props built small enough for the boat. All 3/16" props are huge. I found one CEN prop that ended up being 4mm and too small for the 3/16 shaft.

Redrider598

Right with you on the help from Traxxas String.

I did not think about the foam not letting enough air get around the motor. I will have to pull that out. Thanks.

Let me know if you find anything else out. I have the water coils on order so i hope it comes soon. I did notice that the boat get little to no water in it so i thought about using a ESC fan like the one made by Team Checkpoint. Trial and error seems to be the only way to fix this boat.

stringcheese

not a bad idea with the fan....my boat does get water in it if I don't tape the canopy. I will be trying to a 27T motor next. I think that'll be the best bet. I should have bought an Apache. lol

n.h.schmidt

I wouldn't go with a 27t stock motor for that boat. They are nearly all too hi-strung for most boat use. We have used them for years in N1 mono boat raceing class. If you boat isn't loose on the water( No blast is) they aren't the motor for you.they can burn up easily.If you have room, a Kyosho magnetic mayhem motor would be about what you want. Very robust and can lug down. No longer made but could be found used ,I think. Actually your 21 turn motor isn't bad but, needed some extra things to work out better. Cooled brush hoods and different props come to mind. n.h.schmidt

stringcheese

ok. Here's an update. I tried the "revenge of the monster" 27t stock motor and for the first time did not burn up. endbell temp was 215'F after about 4 minutes. I did have to run it, let it cool, run it, cool it, etc. I do need a better motor and prop. No marine motors look like they'll fit, unless i go brushless, which is not what I want. This was supposed to be a boat for my little boy for pete's sake.

The 4mm drive shaft goes into a 4mm x 4mm universal, then thru the 2 flanged outdrive bushings which have an I.D. of 4mm and O.D. of 6mm with a flange. The drive dog conversion shaft has about 1/2 of the shaft a 4mm then has a step in it to 3/16"

I either need a tiny 3/16" shaft size propeller (which octura and such do not make) OR I need a 4mm drive shaft/dog and a proper propeller.

Or i need a 4mm od x 1/8" id bronze bushing and a 6mm od x 1/8" id flanged bronze bushing to fit a 1/8" drive shaft.

Anyone know where I might find this stuff please let me know.

Thanks!

n.h.schmidt

Hi String
A straight 4mm shaft could be used with only the 4mm thread on the prop end. Then you could use the wide range of Graupner CF props with 4mm threaded hubs. They are excellent props and start at 29mm and go up from there. If I remember right ,the blast will run well with a K31 up to a k34mm prop. I have custom made these prop shafts for Blasts.I have also made special shafts stepped down to 1/8" to use the Octura props. Either way you end up with a better prop and more options. Offshore electrics has the Graupner props and also has Cen made 4mm prop shafts .The Cen prop shafts are too long as is but, can easily be cut down. Much of the long end needs to be removed and some of the 4mm threaded end shortened.
If you want to talk details ,pm me with a phone no . n.h.schmidt

stringcheese

Schmitt,

LOL!
i keep meaning to call you. i even put your number in my phone. i have just managed to get busy.

I broke down and called Octura in Illinios. They do have a perfect (thanks for the info LHS!!!) drive shaft/dog to fit (I wish LHS would've at least checked!). 4mm step down to 1/8". I ordered a x427 and x432 props plus the shaft/dog. I still don't know what engine I should really run. As a recap, I have a high voltage LC speed control (24v i think) that is rated for any motor. I'd like to continue to use just one of my team orion race spec 8.4v 2s 3800mh lipo's at a time. I know running 4s would be faster but I really just want it to run for my son. i have the water cooling coil installed and currently running the 27t car motor. What i really need is a good link to a motor that perhaps you've either used or seen used with a similar set up. i understand the nimh vs lipo data in the setups may not be available since BL technology and Lipo technology go hand in hand. But, you probably could recommend a good starting point for me. The handling characteristics of the boat seem to be extremely stable. I'm excited to see how it runs. My speed control had reverse polarity from the traxxas ESC. I had to take the rtr controller apart and flip the throttle control upside down. I wasn't about to give my 3 year old son my Spektrum DX3-R to play with in the water! i might have to just give up the pipe dream of this boat being my kids boat. I should maybe buy him a tug or something...lol!

n.h.schmidt

The Octura props you ordered will be unfinished and unbalanced . Once you try to use them you will find the X427 too little to get you on plane. The X432 is a gem for your sized boat. It should perform well.Other Octura props to try are all plastic but are good performers X431 ,Y531 and Y534. They are also very cheap and a great buy. For a brushed motor a Kyosho Magnetic mayhem would be about right. Its a long can 21turn motor. Runs good on six or seven cells or a 2s lipo. I have one in a boat of mine and easily runs at 22mph on six cells. n.h.schmidt

TCHedOff

I'm glad you mentioned that the props will be "raw" and need sharpening & balancing (and I doubt stringcheese has a balancer or experience to do this but maybe I'm wrong?).

Anyhow, for what it is worth the diameter of any prop can be reduced to whatever size your looking for.... I asked in a thread once if there was any limit to how much a prop could be reduced in diameter and was told not really. My .21 rigger Has a 47 mm prop that was reduced to 45 mm for example. Might want to have the props back cut too

There are several places to get balanced/sharpened/backcut/reduced size props.... one source is Mark Sholund at www.props4u.com. Expect to pay @$40.

stringcheese

Hopefully my friend Ron can help me balance and sharpen. If you search You tube for "Miss Fortune" you'll find his 55 mph e-sprint cat and a mini c that does back filps. His video is cool. If he won't help me I might have to rethink our friendship. lol JK he's a good friend I'm sure he'll help.

stringcheese

UPDATE!!
I received the new drive shaft, dog, and x432 prop. The Magnetic Mayhem motor has not got to my LHS yet. I'm still running the Revenge of the Monster 27t buggy motor. I got the boat on the lake today. I ran thru a couple batteries and no meltdowns. The motor came out at like 220F and the Lipo was a little too warm for my liking. The wires were pretty hot too. I don't think my lipo has been that warm before. Not even when I run it in my 4wd buggy with a 5.5 BL team orion mod motor. There's not much else I see myself doing to this boat except putting the mayhem into it. i really hope that motor pulls a little less current or i could have a nice lithium fire. As it stands (or floats) it's still way too fast for my son. i wish the radio had some end-point adjustments!

CadillacDTS2001

EPA...put a block behind the back of the throttle trigger.

Team Tekin

270* F and 220* F motor temps?!?! That's ridiculously hot, like oh my god the windings are going to explode hot, anything up over 180* is really pushing it with a brushed motor in anything. Have you lubricated your driveshaft tube? I found that to help a ton with my blast and I've never had my motor temp over 160*F....

stringcheese

270* F and 220* F motor temps?!?! That's ridiculously hot, like oh my god the windings are going to explode hot, anything up over 180* is really pushing it with a brushed motor in anything. Have you lubricated your driveshaft tube? I found that to help a ton with my blast and I've never had my motor temp over 160*F....


Yep. F'N' HOT. 180 is the temp your magnets start to degrade. 195 to 205 is where racers that cut their motors every race run their 27t's in off road racing. Over 40,000 rpms is usually about where a motor grenades. And Yes everything is greased and nothing is binding.
Go put a team Orion 3600 race spec Lipo in your blast and see what happens.

stringcheese

Thanks for the tip. I'll go do it!

Team Tekin

I've ran it on a 3400 2S lipo for over a year now and still no problems and that whole time was with a 19T. Now it's brushless and I have to get a new drive coupler because it annihilated the stock joke of a plastic one. Then I just gotta get a new prop and it should rip!

stringcheese

Sounds like you are one of the lucky ones. My lhs stopped carrying them because of their likelyhood of meltdown.
Who makes a 3400 lipo anyway? I've never heard of one.

vanpelt25

Thanks for the tips on props and motors. I just joined the group and am new to the fast tech boats.I had an Ep 30 in. for a beginner and a couple other toy type.I just ordered a used Traxxas blast from e-bay. I probably got burned again, but time will tell. Hopefully I can avoid some of the mistakes with this line of boat..I plan to stick to regular nicad batteries for now.But would like for it run good, and hopefully cool. You said not over 180 Deg. on the motor, after how long a run?How many volts is the limit on this stock boat? can I run 9.6 battery? D.

stringcheese

Dunno max voltage. I'm fairly sure 9.6v shouldn't damage it. Motors shouldn't ever go over 180*F because it degrades the magnets. My boat probable runs at around 15 or 20 mph now. There is a huge difference in output of a lipo and a nimh. And run time is longer too. Still haven't got my mayhem in at the lhs yet. Ran the boat today lipo still gets warm. I'm considering running 2 x 2s packs in series to 14.7V and seeing how it runs. gotta go get some bannana connectors and the video camera! Should be a BLAST!

Big Roy

My Feedback: (13)

Hi all, I just bought a Blast myself. This is not intended to be a basher boat but for a retreival rescue boat for my real nitro monos and rigger boats. We hook a fishing line to the cowl, run the boat out and around the stranded boat, run the rescue boat back to shore, then reel in the dead boat, works like a charm. Now the question I have is the heat, I ran my boat today for a few minutes of bashing my local pond and it did get hot even in our 50 degree day. Any thoughts of keeping the heat down? when we use this rescue boat it may run a few times a day for maybe 2 minutes at very low speeds.