jeremy242

Well i have enough of the parts together that i can start to work on it so i figured i would start a build thread. I am using plans that martnofan1 sent me for the hull and i am using a toro 25cc weedy motor for power. I still need to cut out the pieces but i have them traced and ready to go. I have some good ideas that i think i can get to work but i will get into them when i am further along with the build. I hope to get the hull together by the end of this week and start to get the motor in the hull. We will see. The theme of this build is cheap because i don't have alot of money so i am trying to make everyhting i can and spend as little money as possible. I know there are things i can't make and will have to buy. The goal is to get a fun reliable boat that i can go and run and not worry to much about. I will also post the price of the materials and where i got them. The last picture isjust of amodel boat i made to get he feel for the hull. Enjoy.

Toro weedy motor $30 home depot
1/4 plywood (2' by 4') $4 Home depot
Door skin (36" by 84") $7 Home depot

brc51

Keep posting and showing progress. i have been wanting to go gas but cost is too much for me to run out and buy one even used.And i have a few 25 to 30cc weed eater motors i could use also. if you have sucsess at it i might give it a go also.

martno1fan

keep up the good work mate ,one thing i see wrong in your mock up build is the sides are on upside downthey go the other way up mate no harm done ,it was a good idea to build one from card first.

fastlane7

The only problem I see is that Miller Lite can is still 1/2 full and the shot glass is empty!!!!! [X(]What a shame
Just kidding....Looks like an interesting build......keep us posted and thanks.

dwr9

Yup, it appears the sides are on upside down. Due to the 5 degree outward angle on the sides, when the sides are bent in around the front, the chine line should be perfectly straight from transom to bow. Cheap is why this boat was originally designed, have fun. Doug

jeremy242

I am trying to stay out of the hobby store with this build as well. I am going to be getting as much as i can off of ebay and home depot. I anticipate that it will cost about 100 to 150 when i am done. Hopefully it works out that way. I am getting my saw tomarrow so i can start to put it together.

jeesusfreek0024

hey, i'm doing something similar..

[link=http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_3442262/tm.htm]thread here[/link]

...except with a glass hull. i'd find a local small engine repair shop and get a square end flex cable from them...it's working well for me so far.

also, anticipate spending at least $40 on a prather 275 / octura 472/2 prop....for balancing, sharpening, and the prop itself. i'd go stainless steel.

jeremy242

The motor i bought came with the upper housing with the shaft so i have that already and all i think i need are the ferrule, stub shaft, strut and berring, stuffing tube, prop, rudder, tabs, dog drive.

jeremy242

Well i got the pieces cut out today. The door skin really didn't cut well and needed alot fof snading to smooth out. I am going to have some tweeking of the ieces and i can already see that i am going to be filling some gaps. The frame is just sitting together and is npt epoxyed yet but that will be happening maybe friday.

bentley marshall

looks good sofar the engine you have looks the same as the one i used it was branded as a zenoah you should get good speed out of it round 40-50 kph keep up the good work

martno1fan

Jeremy did you use door skin for the stringers? if so it wont hold up you really need 1/4" ply and preferably 5 ply(marine or birch ).

jeremy242

No i used 1/4 5 ply wood. It just needs to have the edges sanded down. Glueing will begin on thursday.

martno1fan

Ok mate thats good then i just didnt want you to get any further along and have to change it .One tip when cutting ply with a jigsaw is use the finest blade you can get away with and also if you score the lines with a sharp knife befopre you cut it wont splinter the wood.I also cut a cpl of mm wide of the lines and plane back with a small block plane or sand back with my orbital sander ,keeps things neater.Keep the pics coming mate and keep asking the questions were all here to help.

jeremy242

Today i straightened out the frame and prepped it for glue. Sanded down the egdes and lined everything up. I bought my stuffing tube and my drive dog. The tube was a 5/16 piece of copper tubing that i bought for 1.29 from ace. The drive dog is a 1/4 collor that i am going to cut the sides out to fit the prop and it was 1.50. I also got some rubber stoppers to make mounts out of for .50 each and two pieces for flat stock for .75 to make the mounts out of. I will be gluing the frame tomarrow with the epxoy i got and i will put up pics of all of the new stuff.

Stuffing tube $1.29 ACE
Drive Dog $1.50 ACE
Rubber Mounts $.50 times 4 ACE
Flat stock $.75 times 2 Home Depot
Epoxy $2.99

dwr9

Copper tubing is generally too soft to work very well for a stuffing tube. You can buy brass tube at any hobby shop and it's not too expensive. Some guys have also had good luck using steel brake line from the auto parts store. Doug

martno1fan

I used aluminium on my weedy boat and its held up fine but as Doug says brass is probably the best stuff to use.

Justaddwata

My Feedback: (3)

Looks like your finding some good areas to save a $ or two. I would check that you have enough meat left on that collar after notching it to lock in with a prop. You could also use a second collar on the back side of the prop to secure it instead of a nut (save having to source a threaded 1/4" shaft). You may also want to consider buying a third collar and using it to secure the flex cable inside the hull - just cheap insurance to avoid loosing your cable and prop out the back of the boat

Keep up the good work !!

jeremy242

I plan on setting the motor down in the hull so that there is not very much curve in the pipe as to lessen the wear on the copper. I have already found a threaded 1/4 shaft but i do plan on placing another collor inside to hold the shaft to the motor so that i don't lose the shaft. I will look into the brass and the steel ones.

Another question, everyone uses epxoy to seal thier boats right. I am having a hard time finding epoxy in large quantities, ther are no boat stores near me. I have got some epoxy and i plan on gluing the frame and the skins on with epoxy but could i just seal everything with resin? I can get that everywhere.

martno1fan

resin is fine to seal the wood,but if its poly resin it wont stick to epoxy so if you used epoxy to glue the hull the poly resin wont set where the epoxy is .dont use copper tube [X(], for a shaft saver you can use a cable tie or a piece of silicone tube on the flex between motor and tube.

jeremy242

Ok today i got the frame epoxyed together. This was my fist experience with epoxy and man that stuff is great. It smells a little funny but great. I cut off the bottom bit of plastic on the pull start that was not needed. I also tried to shorten the neck on the output plastic housing but i realised that that was a bad idea and stopped. That neck didn't look like it held the clutch but it did, no harm done but close to it. I also got the engine mounts done too. The mounts are flat stock folded over to hold the bushings. I don't know how good the rubber will hold up but i can always go eurothane if i want. tomarrow the bottom and maybe the sides. We will see what time allows.

dicko

did you mix any filler in with the epoxy? it looks like you've just used the glue on the joins. you will get a much stronger join if you use an epoxy filler (like Q-cells) and put a fillet along all the joins, once it's dried sand it back & put a thin layer of fiber glass over the join & it will be stronger than nails. it will stiffen up you frame & help keep it square too.

jeremy242

No i didn't use any filler but i did plan on sanding it down and going over it wiht fiberglass. The epoxy i used is bondo brand and it comes in the seringe dispenser. The frame is very strong right now but i will strenghten it some more.

martno1fan

looks good mate you dont need anything on those joints for strength as they are slotted together,they will hold no problem.the only place you will need to use glass cloth is where the rails meet the bottom sheets and on the seams of the sides where they meet the bottom sheets and i also glassed the transom on the inside.outside its just epoxy or epoxy resin spread on with an old credit card or scrap piece of wood 2 to 3 coats sanding in between is plenty.Doug designed those frames so they slot together which adds a lot of strength thats why i say you dont need any fillets or cloth on those joints ,only where i just mentioned.

jeremy242

It was a long weekend of working on the boat and other things and this is where i am. I have almost finished the hull. I still have to finish the tip of the nose, glass the stringers, sand and smooth the outside, and coat in epoxy. I made a set of adjustable rim tabs, i am going to jb weld nuts onto the tabs so that a bolt can adjust them. I also made a rudder from 1/8 aluminum. I think it came out good, i sharpened it andthen polised it. It is 6.5 inchs deep. I am also going to make the strut but i have to get a bearing an then i can fab it up. I am also redoing the engine mounts i made as they were a pain to try and get is as you canse from the pics with all the holes in the stringers. I am just going to add aother piece of 1/4 ply along th outside of them and try again. I still have to figure out he gas tank but hopefully that will be done this week.

crazy maxx

boat looks great. keep the updates comming. any choice or hardwear yet