kevinelp

Check the web site

http://www.carlgoldbergproducts.com/.../gbga0053.html

kc2jk310s

Kevinelp ; Thanks for the site information and quick comeback. I greatly appreciate it. I've been flying R/C since 1952 but i'm a base dummy when it comes to computer skills. kc2jk310s Hank

kevinelp

Finally maidened the Ultimate on the weekend.

The most notable thing for me is that elevator low-rates (3/4" as specified in the manual) were way too low - the TX stick hit the rear stop while doing not much more than a shallow climb. Luckily, I had dual-rates set up, so I switched the elevator to high-rates (with plenty of expo) and continued unscathed for a short successful maiden. Had I only set up low-rates, I would have been in trouble. The low rates specified for aileron and rudder were okay.

The elevator also needed a fair bit of down trim for level flight - plane wanted to climb with a neutral elevator. I seem to recall measuring the incidence at near 0 for the stab on mine, so down trim to keep the tail up makes sense.

I had one other short flight and called it a day, 15-20 Knot winds are not the most relaxing way to get used to a new plane.

cheers

- Kevin

kc2jk310s

KEVINELP, Ok, Kevin ; Thanks for the info about the throws. The Goldberg site says the stab should be 1 1/4 degree positive when both wings are at 0 degrees. I usually set the throws a little higher than the manufacturer says and keep the stick movements soft. I flew one of these bipes for a fellow club member that was put together by a man who knows about as much about trammeling a model as i do about computers,and i can't recall how we fixed it but the stick had to be offset nearly into the lower right corner of the TX just to fly level. I called the fellow modeler (who has since moved to N. Carolina) and all he could remember was that i told him to shim the trailing edge of the lower wing. i think it also had a lateral balance problem. kc2jk310s Hank

kevinelp

Just to avoid the potential for mix-up, I was referring to the seagull ultimate and low-rates in its manual - not the goldberg (which is probably better).

cheers

- Kevin

kc2jk310s

Ok, Kevin ; Thanks for all your help. kc2jk310s

rcnuter

i have the 40 size ultimate overall happy with her having some problems with the dual elevator servos cant loop strate and with 46 ax wont hold a hover was thinking of going to 55 ax wondering whether to stick with 2 stroke or go to os 82 4 stroke i want unlimited vertical performance

tman1961

RCnuter, Go with the 4 stroke, the 2 stroke doesn't have the tork necessary for hovers. the Saito 82 has the best power to weight ratio, but for unlimited verticle in a 46 you may want to consider the OS 91. you may run out of aileron though due to high torque. Kevin, trim to level flight then put it into a knife edge and see which way she goes, (to the belly or the canopy.) if it goes to the canopy, you are nose heavy, if it goes to the belly, you are tail heavy. in knife edge flight you should be able to hold it with little or no elevator. make sure your incidence is correct before adjusting center of gravity.

T-Man

Sierra11861

I am almost done building this model and I have run into one problem that I can't seem to solve easily. I used the 3 X 40mm screws for the elevator posts instead of the reccomended 3 X 30mm screws because they lined up much better with the fuse exit holes and did not bend the control rod all to hell and burn up the servos. Now I am left with no 3 X 40mm screws for the ailerons. I bought some 3 X 40 mm screws at the local hobby store and when I got home I realized the threads did not run the length of the screw so I could not tighten them on the control surface so they turned out to be useless. Wow, what a nightmare. I e-mailed Seagull models and, no surprise, I got not response. I googled 3 X 40mm screws and got nothing. Anyone know where I can get 2 lousy 3 X 40mm screws!!! Thanks in advance

Sierra11861

I just put regular controll horns on the elevator and moved the 40mm screws to the ailerons. I am close to finishing, will post pics when I am done

Sierra11861

Does anyone know how many oz. the stock fuel tank for this kit holds? I am flying it and getting only 10 minutes of flight time with a YS 140. I know the 140 drinks fuel like coolaid but...still, 10 minutes until dead stick?.....I have to set the timer at 9 minutes, that is a little too short of a flight time for me. I was thinking of upgrading the tank to 20OZ. thinking that the existing was a 16 OZ, but I am not sure since there is no info in the manual or anywhere on what size the stock tank is!?

RonMcCormick

My Feedback: (4)

I thought it was 14oz, I'm sure if it looked like 16oz I would have replaced it with 14oz which is plenty for my OS 120. I have not flown mine yet (other projects). How do you like it? Pics? You could just fill it and pump it out to a marked container to know for sure how much you burn.

Sierra11861

It flys fine. It will knife edge loop and it climbs great, have not tried to hover it yet. Mine will not glide in too well, you need to land with a few clicks of power to keep it from droping down too fast and bending the gear. It slows down nice and I have not come close to overshooting the field. BTW the gear bends really easy, even on a perfect landing. If you dead stick make sure you have plenty of air spead so it does not snap on you when you get close to the ground. On a dead stick I landed short of the field and the gear bent flat but no other damage other than a few small cracks in the wheel pants.

I found an after market gear on google that they say can't be bent at $45 but something has to absorb the force so I am sticking with what I have for a while. Mine was a little nose heavy and I moved the battery that was already behind the pilot to the very very back of that tray behind the pilot about another 1/2" and it flew better. I was thinking of moving the elevator servos to the tail too to give it a tad more and see what happens even though it is really not necessary. I will try to post some pics the next time I come back from flying it. BTW, I painted the cabanes and the gear and added a monocoat design on the bottom..also did vinyl lettering..dave

RonMcCormick

My Feedback: (4)

I used the gear from the Ulti on my QQ 73" Yak for just three flights and discovered the same weakness. I bent up some gear from 5/32" music wire (old school) for the Yak, works great just the right amount of flex and very strong, think I will do the same for the Ulti prior to flying it. Very stiff gear is useless it will just rip up the undercarriage. The gear must have some flex but not too much. I don't know where the concept of rigid landing gear came from, I never see it on full size planes. Power on landing is not unusual for biplanes with lots of drag from two wings and fat fuse. Go to the Aeromaster thread and look at how the wire landing gear is made on that biplane. We never had problems with that gear.

Sierra11861

Yeah, I don't know why they stopped doing the old wire gear like the Goldberg Ultimate and other Goldberg tail dargger kits had. They had just the right amount of flex and they never tore up the undercairage.

RonMcCormick

My Feedback: (4)

Because they can stamp that cheap aluminum out for less cost. I found a set of aluminum gear from 32 years ago, I was amazed at the quality, I put them on my winter plane and beat the heck out of them and they are in perfect condition, never bent out of shape!!!

Sierra11861

Ron, I drained the stock fuel tank into a 16oz dubro tank and pictured below is the result...looks like the stock tank is approx. 15oz.

RonMcCormick

My Feedback: (4)

Plane looks good, so what size tank will you go to? 20oz?

Sierra11861

When I removed the stock tank I found the clunk had twisted forward in the tank, probably when I had that rough dead stick landing short of the field. I flew it 4 or 5 times after that so that is probably why I was suddenly having short run times. I installed the dubro 16 oz. which is a much better tank IMO. I do not like the plastic pipes in the stock tank. The 20oz would require a lot more surgery so I am going with the 16 to see where that leads, I am thinking a solid 11 min with 1 min reserve may be all I require. Too bad thay don't make an 18oz, that would be perfect....always something

RonMcCormick

My Feedback: (4)

I think finding the distorted pickup line my be the best thing to come out of removing the tank, sounds like the 16oz will be fine. You should always have a stiff section on the pickup line to prevent it bending forward. I have a friend who found stainless springs that fit over the line that works fine.

Sierra11861

After raining all day yesterday (saturday) I was hopefull that today would be a good day to fly since it called for sunny and clear skies. But the wind has taken over at a steady 12mph gusting to 25mph so looks like I will not be able to try to see what run time I get on the new tank..[&o]

olflyr

I replaced my OE aluminum gear with SuperGear made for the Goldberg 1.20 Ultimate and it looks and works great,

Sierra11861

Is that a one-piece gear? Ah, ok I am at their site, looks good. Can you paint them? Wow, $60.00 ain't cheap

gotfuel7

I was thinking the samething Gino, but could you tell me was this picture taken at the Lakeland Aero Modelers CLub in Lyndhurst New Jersey?

bnowlin48

I recently bought a Seagull 90 Ultimate Bipe as I had fallen in love with a friends. He flys his with a 1.25 saito but I had a 1.00 saito without a plane so I bolted it up. It will barely fly. In fact, the second time I put it up the minor pilot error I commited, caused me to have to put it down hard. The repairs are completed but I'm considering putting a Zenoah 20 on instead of buying another saito. Has anyone tried that set up and what are your thoughts on the matter. Pump gas is $2.50, glo fuel is ......well you get the picture.

Undecided in Texas