SHRIKE CLUB # 1
 

I recently finished my first SHRIKE about two weeks ago with the help of a couple of people her on RCU giving me tips on the build. My SHRIKE is using a AP.15 Yellowjacket engine on the nose. The first time I launched the SHRIKE I was literally shaking and my stomach knotted up. I did ok but the landing was rough enough to beak a prop. One attempt at a launch , the motor quit and I nosed into the ground and cart wheeled a few feet before it stopped :) No damage so I dusted it off adjusted the engine and back in the air I went . Since this day I have trimmed this baby out and I have it flying like it is on rails. Although it doesn't seem as fast as the first three or so flights, it is still fun to fly zip this bird around the sky with authority. I am probably going to build the .40 size SHRIKE in the near future, but I really want to get comfortable with the .15 SHRIKE first or I may even build another .15 just for ease of knowing what to do with out going step by step with my mouth hanging open in awe. I flew the shrike today and yesterday and have not broken any props on the landings . The kit build was a little annoying but once I finished it, I was glad I stuck it out to the end.

Well that's all I have to say tonight about my SHRIKE . ;)

RE: SHRIKE CLUB # 1
 

I've had 2 of the the 10 size Shrikes and I simply love this little airplane. I will admit that the building instructions do leave a little bit to be desired, but they can be overcome and it's not too hard of a build. Both of the Shrikes I've had had an OS 20 in them. The first one I build I modified and mounted landing gear on, but I don't recommend that. It totally threw the plane off and it just didn't fly quite right, so took them off. The second one I build I left them off to start with.

I'm hoping to build another one this winter.

Ken

RE: SHRIKE CLUB # 1
 

I have built 2 of the 1/2a size Shrikes. Both flew well under power, but dropped like a rock when power quit. I built a 15 size one for a buddy with a 15CV-A on it. That is one fast plane. I am getting ready to build a 40 size this winter with a piped 46 and retracts on it. Might do a build thread if anyone is interested.

I do like the way they fly. It will be interesting to see how much affect rudder will have on the 40 size bird.

John

RE: SHRIKE CLUB # 1
 

I have built 3 of the Shrike 15's. The first has an OS .15 LA, the second had the OS .25 FX and then the GMS .32 then back to the .25. And the third had an old OS 15 FP in it. I crashed the first two and am going to build a twin engined Shrike using two OS .25 FX's. It'll be a twin boom model. Here are some pictures.

RE: SHRIKE CLUB # 1
 

Here's the second one with the GMS engine in it.

RE: SHRIKE CLUB # 1
 

Man I am glad I started this club :) First I have to say Ken you must be on of the most patient people in the world . Your covering work looks flawless.

jlingrel , I was thinking of building the .40 size shrike and definitely will be interested in a build thread for adding the retracts or just the build period.

vt325xi ;) thats using your head, a twin engine shrike would definitely open some eyes at the field.

The one thing I noticed in some of the pics, is the noses on the shrike has to be opened up a bit to accommodate the engine. I was worried about the look of my nose but won't be any more and will try it with a .28 MAGNUM engine this weekend. I know , with the MAG engine I am taking a chance but thats the beauty of having building skills, repair is not a chore. :)

RE: SHRIKE CLUB # 1
 

RC-FIEND,

Guess I may as well join the club. I have a Shrike 10 kit in my workshop waiting to be built that will be powered by a O.S. .40 LA. I picked up the engine brand new from someone who bought it to put on a trainer then realized it would be in the low end on power. The weight of the .40 LA is close to that of the O.S. .25 FX so hopefully the overall performance will be in the same ballpark as well. I've been looking for a .25 size plane for some time to put the engine on and the Shrike looks like it will be a nice change of pace from my other planes. I read your build thread and I'm sure it will come in handy after looking at the instructions that come with the kit. Hopefully I will be able to get started on my Shrike in the next few weeks.

FlyerBry

RE: SHRIKE CLUB # 1
 

FlyerBry , thanks for the reply . IMHO I think the .40 will be bulky for the .10 shrike but power wise as I have both the OS .25FX and OS .40 will be in the same ball park, but the .40 will really make it move due to the size of the props you can use. I would check with KEN or some one more experienced than I about whether this size shrike can hold up to such speeds.

Welcome aboard and help yourself to my build thread or asking me questions. I was hoping it would come in handy :) now I feel I have helped at least on fellow RC pilot.

If you get away with putting a .40 on the .10 size shrike I have to plan for buying a .60 size engine for my .40 size shrike. Also my OS .40 was some what of a power house I still don't know why but after changing the crankcase it has been nothing but a drag. ;)

GL with your SHRIKE build.

RE: SHRIKE CLUB # 1
 

I would strongly suggest that if building a 10 size for a 40, beef up the spars. They are a weak point. I have seen one fail in flight from not a lot of Gs. When I rebuilt it, I replaced the spars with hardwood. No more problems

John

RE: SHRIKE CLUB # 1
 

I'll join. This is my 40 sized Shrike and is powered by a Super Tigre 40. It built very heavy heavy at 4.75 lbs!! but flies well and actually does not glide like a rock when the engine dies. It is has been grounded for repairs when a landing in rough grass ripped and aileron off. An easy fix but I have been spending my time flying and trying to finish another project I have been working on.

RE: SHRIKE CLUB # 1
 

Daryl_y , welcome aboard, and very nice shrike and covering. My SHRIKE doesn't drop like a rock but loses elevator control very quickly and slows down fast. I was wondering , did you shape your own control surfaces of did you by them already made. ? I getting more and more anxious to see how mine flies with a .28 MAG on the nose, with 15% nitro.

RE: SHRIKE CLUB # 1
 

I used the Stock that came with the kit for my control surfaces and you had to tapper the ailerons to match the print. I did not really follow the plans on shaping the control surfaces and sanded them to a shaped that I liked. I temporally installed the hinges, tapered and rounded the end to match the shape of the wing tip.

RE: SHRIKE CLUB # 1
 

Great idea for a thread! Here's my Shrike. It's powered with a rear exhaust K&B 3.5cc (.21 cu in). Has a Macs 3.5 tuned pipe. The engine is still fairly new, so I'm going easy on it. I've got it proped so it turns around 18,500 RPMs. I think it's got a 7x8 prop, but it could be a 7x9, not sure.

During construction I moved the firewall back about 1/2 inch to compensate for the extra weight. With the battery all the way back in the radio box, it balanced just right. I also replaced the spars with hardwood.

If you look very closely at the left wingtip you can see the antenna wire. During construction I installed a piece of pushrod tubing from the radio box to the wingtip so I could route the antenna through the wing.

Edit: weight is 2 pounds 4 ounces, 1020 grams.

RE: SHRIKE CLUB # 1
 

Daryl_y , thanks for the information. I also noticed you routed your fuel lines through the top of the fuselage which IMO makes it look futuristic. I am still in awe over your covering job [sm=thumbup.gif] it looks flawless


Welcome aboard Chuck nice covering scheme. If you don't mind me asking what size is your shrike. I am just gathering info and tips for my .40 shrike build . And moving the fire wall never entered my mind but makes allot of sense when using a bigger engine than recommended.

RE: SHRIKE CLUB # 1
 

Thanks. It's a Shrike 10. The engine is 3.5cc, which equates to about .21 cu in. The main goal of the covering I chose is visibility. I made the lightning bolts in Powerpoint, scaled them to the right size and then printed them out. I cut the bolts out of the paper, taped them to the covering and used a straight edge to cut them out.

RE: SHRIKE CLUB # 1
 

RC-FEIND, your comment got me thinking about the weight of the .40 LA. I will be on the upper end for weight but I will definitely be lighter than Daryl_y's Super Tigre powered Shrike. I was looking at how the .40 LA compares in weight to various engines so I figured I may as well make a list in case anyone else finds it interesting. Take a look...

O.S. .15 LA
6.5 oz w/muffler

O.S. .25 FX
10.8 oz w/muffler

Magnum .28
10.8 oz w/muffler

O.S. .40 LA
12.3 oz w/muffler

O.S. .32 FX
12.32 oz w/muffler

SuperTigre GS40
19.1oz w/muffler

I thought the comparison is kind of interesting. At only about 1.5 oz heavier than the .25 FX and about the same weight as the .32 FX, I think the .40 LA should do OK. It won't be the fastest Shrike around but the lightweight airframe should make this typically lackluster engine capable of some fun.

I have already had modifications to the design in mind with my Shrike 10. So far they include moving the firewall back around a half inch and of course, changing the wing spars for something stronger. I have a couple 1/4 inch carbon fiber tubes in my shop that I am going to look at using in place of the balsa spars. I haven't decided yet as I still need to compare the weight and amount of flex of the carbon tubes to spruce parts.

I also plan on a fairly light radio setup as well such as a light-weight receiver and mini servo on throttle.

Should be fun!

FlyerBry

RE: SHRIKE CLUB # 1
 

Hi FlyerBry, I think you you will be all right with the weight , but the torque is what is concerning me. The .40 LA is absolutely not a power house of an engine but it did fly my 5.5 lb trainer inverted , and thats takes allot of torque and thrust So I ask again, will the torque and thrust vs the G force rip the .10 shrike apart like a rock being thrown through a piece of paper ? I am sure you will fly at lower throttle position before moving closer to full throttle. GL [8D]

Thanks for the info Chuck , for some reason I get my color schemes from sports teams. The purple and yellow represents the LOS ANGELES LAKERS basket ball team. :) I notice out of all of my planes , the aluminum and BLACK scheme is the easiest to see when flying high in the air . So this will probably be the next color scheme I go with on the SHRIKE .40 which reminds my of the OAKLAND RAIDERS football team.

RE: SHRIKE CLUB # 1
 

FlyerBry, mine has a Hitec Electron 6 receiver and GWS mini servos. I used a Park L servo on the throttle and a stronger model that's got the same torque specs as a standard servo on the ailerons and elevator. I also used a small NiMH battery pack. We should all weight our Shrikes and post them here. It would be interesting to know the range.

RE: SHRIKE CLUB # 1
 

That's more methodical than me. I just went to my covering box, picked out a few rolls that seem to work together and started covering. :D

RE: SHRIKE CLUB # 1
 

piper_chuck, good idea with the Shrike weights. That would be interesting. Too bad we can't get radar gun readings of the various setups as well...

RC-FEIND, a little throttle management will definitely be in order. I typically research a plane thoroughly before deciding on what I want. The Shrike hasn't been any different. If not going with something in the .15 size range, the .25 FX seems to be the most popular engine. There are also a few who are running the .32SX (and at least one with a pipe!) I also noticed a few comments from people saying they would like to try a .30 size engine. I would guess the power of the .40 LA is closer to the .25FX than the .32SX and the weight is virtually the same as the .32SX. I could see some torque problems if I tried to run an 11 inch prop or something along those lines but that's not what I have in mind. I think a smaller diameter, higher pitch prop is really more appropriate for the airframe. I'm thinking more in the neighborhood of a 9x8. The .40 LAs I have seen and the one I ran myself in the past were all pretty smooth running so I don't think it is going to torque the firewall off. I just don't see it as being that much of an issue. I could be wrong - guess the proof will be in the flying. As far as how many Gs the thing will handle, I already mentioned that I don't plan to build the plane stock. Strengthening will be required as many have already alluded to.

FlyerBry

RE: SHRIKE CLUB # 1
 

OK everyone, weigh in. Mine tips the scale at 2 pounds 4 ounces (1020 grams for the metric crowd).

RE: SHRIKE CLUB # 1
 

RC_FEIND I think the 40 LA would be just fine for the Shrike, Everyone at our club who has Shrike have all said theirs came out nose heavy. Mine has about 3 oz of weight in the tail and that is with the recevier all the way in the back as well. This was not a well thought out project for me I bought 2 Shrikes about this time last year and I gave one to my brother for a Christmas present (he is Chevalier on this forum) and built the the other one over a time span of about 1 month just cause I wanted something to do. I had 2 engines on my work bench to choose from a new ST 40 and a old but still runs well OS 40 FP. If I could have a re-do I would use the 40 FP also I think that the OS 32FX would fly the 40 sized shrike just fine as well. As far as prop size my set up works best with a 10 X 6 its extra thrust makes the hand launch more forgiving, I have used 10 x6 , 9x7, and 9x8 MAS props I found nonly a slight difference in top speed but vertical and rate of climb is better with the 10 x 6.

Oh forgot about the weigh in 4.75lb for the 40 sized one

RE: SHRIKE CLUB # 1
 

This is the reason I moved the firewall back while I was building. It was fairly easy to do and in the end I needed no weights for balancing.

Edit: Of course the weight of the tuned pipe and bracket might help the balance too. :D

RE: SHRIKE CLUB # 1
 

I am still puzzled about how you guys are getting away with such a big engine on a small frame . Today I flew my Super Chipmunk and it is definitely over powered with a OS .70fs. I pulled off a knife edge for two brief moments and now I am hell bent on knife edge the length of the field. :)

Last night I went nuts looking for two engine mounts to replace the engine on my shrike and just before I started typing I found them [sm=punching.gif]. So to night I will install the MAG .28 on the nose and see what kind of speed I can get out of this bird. I feel I should be able to pull it vertical unlimited.

I giving the engine compartment a baby powder bath for a few hours to get the oil out and then I will CA shellac the entire compartment to fuel and oil proof the SOB.

Chuck the weight with the MAG .28 on the nose will be 1 lb 19oz's. This engine was pulling my modeltech extra 300 almost vertical so I hope I can handle the speed. Oh yea flying the shrike made it seem like my chipmunk was barely moving [:o] but I guess that is what speed planes do , make other planes appear to be much slower.

RE: SHRIKE CLUB # 1
 

I'll join the club. I picked up a second hand plane and just identified it as a Shrike 10. I found some info on it at the Lanier site, so all I need to do now is repair some hangar rash, (re)install radio and servos and clean up the OS .25 that is on it (hasn't been run in awhile).

Wish me luck!

RE: SHRIKE CLUB # 1
 

Ummm, 1 lb 19oz? Youz guyz in Joisey use a different measurement system than the rest of us? :)

All this talk about Shrikes gave me the urge to take mine to the field yesterday. Conditions were perfect, nice sunny sky and no wind. The speed was great. The person with the reputation for having some of the fastest prop planes in the club estimated that my Shrike was faster than his Patriot. He and I did some informal formation/pylon flying before I took the Shrike up.

RE: SHRIKE CLUB # 1
 

Well I took mine up today with the MAG.28 on the nose and was afraid to go past half throttle . But due to a very smooth then ruff landing, at the same time, along with oil soaked balsa, the nose came apart and I have to rebuild. I will use CA glue to coat the entire engine compartment making it stronger and oil and fuel resistant. I almost got the flight on video but for some strange reason the battery died when I reached the field.

PS I can convert the weight to Kilo grams for you . ;)

RE: SHRIKE CLUB # 1
 

Glad to hear it flew, bummer on the rebuild. I use Balsarite to seal engine compartments, and before I cover a plane. It does a good job of preventing fuel soaked wood, and also helps keep the covering edges from coming up.

I guess you missed my point on the measurements. How many ounces in a pound?

RE: SHRIKE CLUB # 1
 

Welcome aboard . Your shrike is the first one I have seen that has a nose shaped like my did. Also the way the fuel hoses come from the top like that looks familiar.

Good luck with the overhaul. ;)

PS your cat looks funny [sm=lol.gif]

RE: SHRIKE CLUB # 1
 

[sm=lol.gif] my fault , 16 ounces in a pound but I had to add the weight of the engine to the weight of the rest of the plane plus subtract 2 ounces for fuel in bottle, so 2 pounds 3 ounces total .......lol, and that is with 2 c size batteries in the tail to balance it out .

RE: SHRIKE CLUB # 1
 

Here is a picture of the Shrike I built for a buddy in Cairo, Egypt. It is still flying there. Has an OS 15CV on it. Started with a 15 LA, but Al is a speed freak. Still waiting for my stuff to get here from Egypt, have a 1/2a ready to fly in a box, plus a 15 size kit that I want to build with a 25 on it. The first picture was the first build, then we discovered how weak the spar was. The second is a vast improvement in wing strength

John

RE: SHRIKE CLUB # 1
 

Good advice on the Balsarite, Chuck. I would not use CA for the purpose as Nitromethane is a solvent for CA.

jess

RE: SHRIKE CLUB # 1
 

I always use slow curing epoxy in the engine and fuel tank compartments. Never had had a problem with oil soaking.

John

RE: SHRIKE CLUB # 1
 

I keep getting CA glue mixed up with EPOXY . :) Balsarite is water proof but I am not sure if it is fuel proof.

RE: SHRIKE CLUB # 1
 

I have used Balsarite in the engine area on EVERY kit I have ever built. I also use it in the engine area for ARFs. Never a problem with fuel soaking. It's light, dries fast, and is fuel proof.

RE: SHRIKE CLUB # 1
 

I have the Shrike .40 Mine had a Tower Hobbies .46. It flew well. Unlimited vertical, very fast. It wasn't at all like I expected. I thought it would be really squerlly and all over the sky. It in fact was not. Really stable. Fast roll rate, tame in pitch. Kinda Jet like really. I crashed it pretty good on landing and broke one wing off. Then I rebuilt it and used duct tape for covering! It flew just as well as before, but eventually I got bored with it and its now retired. Flights were like, lets go fast from the left.......Ok, now we'll go fast from the right...... Without rudder, etc. there is only so many things you can do with one of these. However, I only built it to test my flying skills. I think some time flying a Shrike will make every RC'er a better pilot. Here is a picture of it when it still looked good.

RE: SHRIKE CLUB # 1
 

I made one modification to it when I built it that I would highly recommend. Make the bottom of the fuselage a access hatch under the fuel tank. Small airframes with a fuel leak are a bugger to fix when you can't get in there!

RE: SHRIKE CLUB # 1
 

Nice SHRIKE, The .40 isn't much bigger than the .10. And you hit the nail on the head as far as every one should fly one because it really takes concentration and a steady hand to control the SHRIKE. My first flight I was all over the place for the first 20 seconds of flight then I calmed down , my leg stopped shaking and I was shipping it around like it was on rails. :)

RE: SHRIKE CLUB # 1
 

I suppose I need to join as well as I am about 1/3 done with mine. It is a .10 size with an O.S. .15fp for power. I will post pictures later when I finish. I really enjoyed reading the build threads as the manual & plans where the worst I have ever built from. [:-]

RE: SHRIKE CLUB # 1
 

Welcome and I am glad the thread could be of help. I wrecked my Shrike do to poor elevator surface . You can take this as a warning or ignore it , but if you ignore it fly very high. As I was banking low I hit a tree limb because it would not pull out of the bank. I had the MAG .28 on the nose at this time. GL keep us posted. ;)