sledge_78

My Feedback: (24)

All you Rustoleum knowledgeable folks,

I am planning on painting a new F8F Bearcat I have just finished. I will be using a color to match that of the Blue Angels. It appeared that the Rustoleum "Royal Blue" was a good match. It is glow powered with fiberglase cover over entire airplane. I did put a lot of time and work into this so I would like to know if the Rustoleum will work and look good without fuel (hot or Cold) affecting the paint. What is the consensus, should I use the Rustoleum?

Sledge_78

buzzard bait

I think if you look over the posts you will see that "consensus" is kind of a joke. Personally, I would never risk it on a glow fueled plane, period.

Ralph White

Hi Sledge, I will know the answers to you question in about a week. I am just finishing an Aeromaster Bipe that I painted with rust-Oleum. I painted it Sail Blue, Sunrise Red, and Gloss White. I also sprayed clear over the decals, but not the rest of the paint. I have tested raw glow fuel (5% nitro) on all the colors and the gloss clear. It does not seem to affect them after allowing them to cure for 4 or 5 weeks. I did not test them after a couple of weeks as I wanted to make sure the paint had lots of time to cure. Some folks here say 2 weeks is long enough. I also did one 1 minute test with the exhaust from my son's engine using 10% nitro fuel. It did not seem to do anything to the paint, but it was only one short test.
As I said earlier I sprayed the decals with gloss clear. I am not happy with this because the clear seems to not stick well to the rust-oleum colors. I can scrap it off as if it is not stuck to the paint. It wanted to lift when I removed the masking tape leaveing a built up line. I think I sprayed the clear on to thick which may be causing the problem. We will soon see if the exhaust fuel affects the gloss clear.
I also discovered that acetone can be used to clean off CA glue smears if the rust-oleum has cured for 4 or 5 weeks. I believe it would affect the rust-oleum if you continued to rub long enough or to hard.
I will be posting pictures on my Aeromaster as so as it is completely finished. I will also give a report on the rust-oleum paint after a few flights.

Hope this helps and also hope you are not in a big hurry,
Ralph White, Neoga, IL

sledge_78

My Feedback: (24)

Ralph White, and Buzzard Bait,

Well I guess I will see what happens here. I'm in the stage of priming and sanding so I do have some time to wait and see. I would be very interested in seeing your Bipe, Ralph. Although I admit I am a bit apprehensive. Once Im done with the primer (rustoleum by the way) it will be decision time. Buzzard what paint would you recommend as an alternative?

Sledge_78 AMA 24252

buzzard bait

Sledge, I'm an old dope fiend. However, the fumes are a real pain, so I'm thinking seriously about Nelson water based for next time. People also seem to think Flecto Varathane is sufficiently fuel proof. It can be used to fuel proof some paints. Do a search and you'll find some interesting ideas that I won't try to tell you because I haven't tried them.

Clear Rustoleum seemed even less fuel proof than the colored, so you can't spray it on top and expect it to improve anything. But who knows? The paint doesn't say what it is, and they probably vary the formula. That may account for why it's worked for some and not others. Good luck. I'd check out Nelson. Jim

pmw

My Feedback: (1)

I've used Rustoleum for years with no problems. But, I switched to Nelson's a couple of years ago for two reasons. One, the Rustoleum spray pattern was just too small for large planes. Two, Nelson's paint dries almost instantly. No cureing time. Nelson's is excellent paint, but very sensitive to spray pressures. (Search the threads). Also, beware. Nelson's paint does not dry to a high gloss like Rustoleum. But, after about an hour you can sand it like a hard shelled primer. Almost never runs, but if it does let it dry about an hour and it sands out smooth as glass. Also, Nelson's can be spot patched and will blend into the base coat like no other paint I've ever seen. Can't do any of that with Rustoleum.

Paul

sledge_78

My Feedback: (24)

PMW,Buzzard Bait,

I read the web site for Nelson's Paint and it does seem very interesting. Fuel proof etc. I sent them a note and asked some quesions. Such as how much paint is needed for a 60" model, which primer to use, and the right spray equipment and pressure. Also, if I can apply their primer over one aileron I have already primed with Rustoleum primer. Maybe Nelsons paint is the option with out any doubts involving fuel proofing etc.

Sledge_78
AMA 24252

tonyc

My Feedback: (4)

Rustoleum Gloss White - is this a good match for Monokote Jet White?

Bobt2

My Feedback: (4)

just a heads up on nelson paint. i,ve used it a few times now. it takes a while to get the spraying just right, a little learning curve. my main problem, his the colors are not excact matches. the white and true red are very close but the blues were not acceptable to me. when i go from monokote the a fiberglass cowl, i dont want it to jump out. the royal blue and insigina blue did.

Bobt2

My Feedback: (4)

it should have come out 'from monokote fuse to the fiberglass cowl"

halfway00

My Feedback: (2)

I think something to rally keep in mind is to SHAKE WELL.

Ralph White

Hello everybody,
An up-date on rust-oleum paint being fuel proof or not. As I stated in my 5/15/08 post I painted my new Aeromaster with rustoleum paint from the spray cans. The colors I used were Gloss White 7792, Sunrise Red 7762, and Sail Blue 7724. I also sprayed gloss clear on the decals on the fuse and fin. I have been flying the Aeromaster (picture below) for several weeks. About 2 1/2 gallons of 5% nitro, 11% castor, 11% syncatic so far. I am happy to say the rust-oleum colors are 100% fuel proof for these colors with the fuel I am using. Even the raw fuel setting in the engine compartment floor as not affected the rust-oleum. Of course I clean that area after each flying session.
I have not decided yet about the gloss clear. Very little fuel is getting on the clear. However, the leading edge of the fin, which has clear on it, started to get sticky a few weeks ago. I may have put it on too thin on that area. Also, I thought maybe the Windex cleaner could be affecting the clear. So I started cleaning with Joy dish detergent and water mixture. Since changing cleaners the fin LE has improved and does not feel sticky before or after cleaning. I also make sure I clean the entire plane well with the detergent cleaner. I have decided it cleans better than Windex.
So far the Aeromaster looks as good as when it was brand new. I will post again if the gloss clear changes in any way. Also I am planning to start using 10% nitro fuel and will post if this causes any problems.

Ralph White, Neoga, IL

Ralph White

Hi everyone, Here is an update of Rust-o-leum paints. I have been flying by Aeromaster all summer. I am now using 10% nitro with 18% oil. As stated in my 7/24/08 post (above this one), the rust-o-leum colors are 100% fuel proof for these colors with the fuel I am using. Even the raw fuel setting in the engine compartment floor as not affected the rust-oleum. However, the clear I sprayed over the decals is another story. The clear on the fin had started to get sticky and dirty looking earlier this summer with the 5% nitro fuel. The dirt will not clean off the clear. I noticed tonight that the clear over the decal on the exhaust side of the fuselage is now starting to get very sticky and dirty and soon to be gummy. I must of missed cleaning that area the last time I flew as it seemed to happen all at once.
Earlier I said I believed the windex cleaner might be affecting the clear but now I do not believe that to be the case. It is the exhaust oil and fuel that is affecting the clear rust-o-leum.
My conclusion is that the rust-o-leum colors I used are 100% fuel proof. But the rust-o-leum clears (both gloss & satin) are not at all fuel proof. DO NOT use the clear rust-o-leum over decals or over the colored rust-o-leum when using glow fuel.
Ralph White, Neoga, IL

dhal22

thanks so much for keeping us updated. very nice to have someone let us know of the risks before we take them.[sm=teeth_smile.gif]

david

BobHH

My Feedback: (18)

Yep, I've been using the color Rustoleum for many years now. I found out the clear was not too good as it gets gummy after a while. For clear I us automotive base coat clear. The colors I have on several models using from 10% to 40% fuel with no problems what so ever.

Bob Harris

MX240

My Feedback: (4)

I have read on this site to use Minwax Helmsan Spar Urethane. In the green can.
I haven't tried it, but did pick up a can of clear gloss for my next project.
Anyone try this?
Jim

BobHH

My Feedback: (18)

I've not seen the clear work well so I say stay away. The other colors work great. Here is my Sr Falcon covered in white ultracoat with Rustoleum trim. Looks the same after 100+ flights.

Bob Harris

bgfireman

My Feedback: (13)

BobHH,
How did you prep your ultracote to accept the paint?
Thanks Alan

BobHH

My Feedback: (18)

Tape it off with trim tape. Take some 00 steel wool and slightly rub the area you want to paint just to make it dull. Then wash it down with denatured alcohol. Let dry and spray a light tack coat. Let dry for about 10 to 15 minutes. Make a final coat and let dry about 30 minutes then carefully remove tape. Let dry 24 to 48 hours before taping other colors. Here is a picture of my Classic Coupe 1/2A model. I run 35% nitro fuel with no problems to date.

Bob Harris

mikenlapaz

Have any of you tried putting a thin coat of clear on the tapeline prior to putting down the 'tack coat' to prevent paint running under the tape?

BobHH

My Feedback: (18)

Mike I do that when painting with the paper masking tape but with the new plastic masking tape I do not and I get crisp sharp lines on monokote.

Bob Harris

jeffie8696

I have been using Rustoleum on my 1/2A C/L models and have no problems with the solid colors. I have never used the clears. And I use up to 30% nitro!!