I paid $500 for these. I think it was a good deal...
02-20-2012, 11:36 AM
#51
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RE: I paid $500 for these. I think it was a good deal...
ok thanks. im getting batts with banana plugs so i need to get a transfer cable that goes from deans too banana
02-20-2012, 11:57 AM
#52
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RE: I paid $500 for these. I think it was a good deal...
Not a big soldering fan? 
I don't blame you. Soldering these 12 gauge wires anymore is just ridiculous.
I don't blame you. Soldering these 12 gauge wires anymore is just ridiculous.
02-20-2012, 12:03 PM
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RE: I paid $500 for these. I think it was a good deal...
ORIGINAL: pyromatic177
Yeah and i don't really know how to solder. i have the concept of it. haven't actually tries it
Yeah and i don't really know how to solder. i have the concept of it. haven't actually tries it
02-20-2012, 01:22 PM
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RE: I paid $500 for these. I think it was a good deal...
It's just another point of failure, another point that can come unattached and another point of electrical resistance in a high power system. Also, it lengthens the cable lengths which can lead to undesired rubbing, etc. and an otherwise messier appearance.
If executed properly you could run adapters and they will work.
If executed properly you could run adapters and they will work.
02-21-2012, 05:45 AM
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RE: I paid $500 for these. I think it was a good deal...
Every time you have a connection (EC5, TRX, Deans, etc) there is an increase in resistance/drop in conduction of electricity. In other words, more of the current is lost to heat each time you send it through a connector.
Along with all the other things Dale mentioned. I agree with him, you can make it work. But like t9 said, as easy as it is to solder, why add resistance and rob power?
Along with all the other things Dale mentioned. I agree with him, you can make it work. But like t9 said, as easy as it is to solder, why add resistance and rob power?
02-21-2012, 06:52 AM
#61
RE: I paid $500 for these. I think it was a good deal...
ORIGINAL: pyromatic177
yeah ok. what's a good and rather cheaper soldering station that i can get?
yeah ok. what's a good and rather cheaper soldering station that i can get?
The most important thing to soldering, especially big gauge wire: Flux. Get some really small electronics solder (which does have flux in it) and a small tin of flux. I always flux my two wires first, then tin them with solder, and then soldering the two together is super easy. I use heat shrink tubing over the joint to seal out moisture and debris, and it looks nicer.
I like to solder hot, so I usually use the 30w setting for most jobs. It itsn't bad practice to get a few chunks of big wire to practice on before making the crucial solder joints on the car wiring.
02-21-2012, 07:25 AM
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RE: I paid $500 for these. I think it was a good deal...
ORIGINAL: pyromatic177
yeah ok. what's a good and rather cheaper soldering station that i can get?
yeah ok. what's a good and rather cheaper soldering station that i can get?
02-21-2012, 07:27 AM
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RE: I paid $500 for these. I think it was a good deal...
I agree that flux really helps the process. There is so much information online anymore, if you search for soldering on youtube and on google you can probably get some really good lessons.
02-21-2012, 07:47 AM
#64
RE: I paid $500 for these. I think it was a good deal...
ORIGINAL: t9dragon
You want at least a 60w iron. This is the one I use http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXPR36&P=ML most LHS carry them and the tips can be replace. You really don't want anything less than 60w otherwise you will be there all day waiting for the solder to get hot enough to melt.
ORIGINAL: pyromatic177
yeah ok. what's a good and rather cheaper soldering station that i can get?
yeah ok. what's a good and rather cheaper soldering station that i can get?
I could be wrong, but I personally think 30-45w is perfect. The choice of solder (both size and composition) is a more crucial variable IMO.
02-21-2012, 07:50 AM
#65
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RE: I paid $500 for these. I think it was a good deal...
ORIGINAL: 1QwkSport2.5r
I disagree to a point. I used a 22w iron for a long time, and recently bought the 15w/30w iron. I've used a big 200w soldering gun, and I've used soldering attachments on a propane torch. Out of all of them, I find 30w is probably the best. If you're dealing with something like 2-4 gauge wire, then I can see 50-60w being better. I'm by no means an electric r/c expert, but I dont think they're using 2 or 4 gauge wire for the high-current connections.
I could be wrong, but I personally think 30-45w is perfect. The choice of solder (both size and composition) is a more crucial variable IMO.
ORIGINAL: t9dragon
You want at least a 60w iron. This is the one I use http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXPR36&P=ML most LHS carry them and the tips can be replace. You really don't want anything less than 60w otherwise you will be there all day waiting for the solder to get hot enough to melt.
ORIGINAL: pyromatic177
yeah ok. what's a good and rather cheaper soldering station that i can get?
yeah ok. what's a good and rather cheaper soldering station that i can get?
I could be wrong, but I personally think 30-45w is perfect. The choice of solder (both size and composition) is a more crucial variable IMO.
02-21-2012, 08:37 AM
#67
RE: I paid $500 for these. I think it was a good deal...
ORIGINAL: t9dragon
It is all a matter of opinion. I prefer 60w and you prefer 30-45w.
ORIGINAL: 1QwkSport2.5r
I disagree to a point. I used a 22w iron for a long time, and recently bought the 15w/30w iron. I've used a big 200w soldering gun, and I've used soldering attachments on a propane torch. Out of all of them, I find 30w is probably the best. If you're dealing with something like 2-4 gauge wire, then I can see 50-60w being better. I'm by no means an electric r/c expert, but I dont think they're using 2 or 4 gauge wire for the high-current connections.
I could be wrong, but I personally think 30-45w is perfect. The choice of solder (both size and composition) is a more crucial variable IMO.
ORIGINAL: t9dragon
You want at least a 60w iron. This is the one I use http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXPR36&P=ML most LHS carry them and the tips can be replace. You really don't want anything less than 60w otherwise you will be there all day waiting for the solder to get hot enough to melt.
ORIGINAL: pyromatic177
yeah ok. what's a good and rather cheaper soldering station that i can get?
yeah ok. what's a good and rather cheaper soldering station that i can get?
I could be wrong, but I personally think 30-45w is perfect. The choice of solder (both size and composition) is a more crucial variable IMO.
ORIGINAL: pyromatic177
Ok awesome. now what's flux?
Ok awesome. now what's flux?
02-22-2012, 06:32 AM
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RE: I paid $500 for these. I think it was a good deal...
Here are the long awaited pictures of the system installed in the Summit. I am pretty damn impressed with Hobbywing's stuff.
02-22-2012, 06:34 AM
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RE: I paid $500 for these. I think it was a good deal...
I was so impressed with Hobbywing's stuff that I put a 10T EZRUN system in my daughters e-savage. Her truck inherited the chevy body and the e-maxx is getting another one painted up.
02-22-2012, 08:34 AM
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RE: I paid $500 for these. I think it was a good deal...
ORIGINAL: Dale Gribble
Here are the long awaited pictures of the system installed in the Summit. I am pretty damn impressed with Hobbywing's stuff.
Here are the long awaited pictures of the system installed in the Summit. I am pretty damn impressed with Hobbywing's stuff.
02-22-2012, 08:57 AM
#72
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RE: I paid $500 for these. I think it was a good deal...
ORIGINAL: Dale Gribble
I was so impressed with Hobbywing's stuff that I put a 10T EZRUN system in my daughters e-savage. Her truck inherited the chevy body and the e-maxx is getting another one painted up.
I was so impressed with Hobbywing's stuff that I put a 10T EZRUN system in my daughters e-savage. Her truck inherited the chevy body and the e-maxx is getting another one painted up.
02-22-2012, 11:49 AM
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RE: I paid $500 for these. I think it was a good deal...
ORIGINAL: t9dragon
Did you have to replace any gears in the E-Savage to run brushless?
Did you have to replace any gears in the E-Savage to run brushless?
On the power side, I won't run over 3s in it and I turned the punch control down a bit on the ESC.
The thing is very fast and quite enjoyable with 2s or 3s.
02-23-2012, 05:46 PM
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RE: I paid $500 for these. I think it was a good deal...
looks Sweet!!! nice job
love black on black with chrome.
ORIGINAL: Dale Gribble
Ok, the Summit got its new body. I was in an airbrushing mode this weekend. Honestly, I thought a blacked out body would look so good on this, I just shot it with a single color and I LOVE it.
Ok, the Summit got its new body. I was in an airbrushing mode this weekend. Honestly, I thought a blacked out body would look so good on this, I just shot it with a single color and I LOVE it.
