tf dc3
#1
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tf dc3
bought a dc 3 from a freind that had two evo 46, neither would run, so i am trying to chose what to put back, should i go ele or go with back glow, if i go back with glow what would should i get, two cycle
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RE: tf dc3
I would stay with the glow, and get OS 46ax 2 stroke engines. Only about 150 a piece I think. Great reliable engines. Evos aren't the greatest. I've been running OS for a long time, and you want a reliable engine in an airplane like that.
Good Luck
Good Luck
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RE: tf dc3
Here is the url from Top Flite for the DC-3
http://www.top-flite.com/airplanes/topa0500.html
Based on their specs, I would suggested a couple of light weight .40 cu two-strokes or a couple of Saito FA-56 would sound great, IMHO. The wing loading is pretty high, so you will have to fly this plane carefully and all the way through the landing. Definitely not a floater.
SPECIFICATIONS
Stock Number: TOPA0500
Wingspan: 82.5 in (2095 mm)
Wing Area: 750 in² (48.8 dm²)
Weight: 8-10 lb (3630-4540 g)
Wing Loading: 24.6-30.7 oz/ft² (75-94 g/dm²)
Fuselage Length: 55.5 in (1410 mm)
Required: 2-stroke .25-.40 cu in or 4-stroke .40-.52 cu in engine & 4-8 channel radio with 6-9 servos (2 micro)
http://www.top-flite.com/airplanes/topa0500.html
Based on their specs, I would suggested a couple of light weight .40 cu two-strokes or a couple of Saito FA-56 would sound great, IMHO. The wing loading is pretty high, so you will have to fly this plane carefully and all the way through the landing. Definitely not a floater.
SPECIFICATIONS
Stock Number: TOPA0500
Wingspan: 82.5 in (2095 mm)
Wing Area: 750 in² (48.8 dm²)
Weight: 8-10 lb (3630-4540 g)
Wing Loading: 24.6-30.7 oz/ft² (75-94 g/dm²)
Fuselage Length: 55.5 in (1410 mm)
Required: 2-stroke .25-.40 cu in or 4-stroke .40-.52 cu in engine & 4-8 channel radio with 6-9 servos (2 micro)
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RE: tf dc3
Use ebay and find some OS 40la's. I have a pair of magnum 52FS, that I got half off from hobby people, that will go on my TF DC3. Otherwise a magnum 2s would work as well.
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RE: tf dc3
I have a friend who built this plane and started with two stroke OS 46FX's and they were way too much power. He moved into the OS 52FS's and these four strokes sounded better and performed much better all around. I think OS sells a 56 4-stroke now with similar specs.
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RE: tf dc3
ORIGINAL: aaflyer
Here is my E-powered TF C-47. Power 32's. More than enough power. AUW weight is 9.5lbs. The E-powered conversion is pretty easy.
Al
Here is my E-powered TF C-47. Power 32's. More than enough power. AUW weight is 9.5lbs. The E-powered conversion is pretty easy.
Al
Sweet! I have my kit still in the box, awaiting build time.. Also to be E-powered.
Don't mean to steal the thread, but I'd be interested to hear how you handled/placed ESC, batteries, cooling, etc. Pictures would be wonderful.. if you've got the time that is. Details on the power system; batteries, motor, esc, prop size, would all be appreciated.
There's another thread somewhere asking how to e-power this bird.
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_9910220/tm.htm
And do my eyes see the Robart air retracts? How those working for you?
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RE: tf dc3
I took out the Thrust angle. Props are the Master Airscrew 10x7's, Running 4S 3700mah Batts. The Batts fit up front, the Hatch is removable and it will balance perfectly. The ESC's will fit in the cowling, I have vents in the Dummy Radial's for cooling, no issues so far. Yes those are the Robarts, I was so what sceptical as to if they would hold up, but so far so good. Flies and lands like a big trainer.
Al
Al
#17
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RE: tf dc3
The newest of the AX's the OS .35AX would be wonderful on that airplane. They have all the attributes that are perfect for multi's especially throttling characteristics and low idle. I have seven now and only one on a single the rest on multi's.
Oh the suggestion to go to Ebay for engines is the worse thing you could do for the survival of your airplane.
The singles get the old or junk engines but my multis always get the best possible and always new. I even prefer to break them in together and at the same times on a multi test stand.
John
Oh the suggestion to go to Ebay for engines is the worse thing you could do for the survival of your airplane.
The singles get the old or junk engines but my multis always get the best possible and always new. I even prefer to break them in together and at the same times on a multi test stand.
John
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RE: tf dc3
I started with Magnum XL 40s on mine and it flew like a pylon racer. The full scale ships look like they are almost in slow motion in the air so I was completely dissatisfied with the way my model flew. It now has Magnum .30 4 stokes on it which are a much better match in my opinion.
#23
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RE: tf dc3
Peter,
If you go with either of those two engines, don't get the "CL" model. That stands for Control Line and do not have any throttle control.
I have pretty much decided on Saito 40a's for my DC-3. I have a larger Saito and love the way it behaves. I understand these may be "too big" for this kit, but the Top Flight design article said they work fine. The article actually says that four-stroke 26's would be the smallest to fly this plane, so the 30's should also be great. However, I'm planning on leaving myself some cushion for power and when it is time to fly "scale" just not jamb the stick to full...
Lastly, in case of future kit disassembly - I think the Saito 40's will go into some other planes better than the little 30's.
Pilot Junky - I got my dummy radial engines from Dare Hobby. I'm also planning to use their bomber crew for the pilots because they seem to be the correct size/scale.
edited for typos.
If you go with either of those two engines, don't get the "CL" model. That stands for Control Line and do not have any throttle control.
I have pretty much decided on Saito 40a's for my DC-3. I have a larger Saito and love the way it behaves. I understand these may be "too big" for this kit, but the Top Flight design article said they work fine. The article actually says that four-stroke 26's would be the smallest to fly this plane, so the 30's should also be great. However, I'm planning on leaving myself some cushion for power and when it is time to fly "scale" just not jamb the stick to full...
Lastly, in case of future kit disassembly - I think the Saito 40's will go into some other planes better than the little 30's.
Pilot Junky - I got my dummy radial engines from Dare Hobby. I'm also planning to use their bomber crew for the pilots because they seem to be the correct size/scale.
edited for typos.
#24
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RE: tf dc3
TEBerg,
Thank you for the advice.. totally spaced on the CL, I meant FA. Also there's talk of twinsync tecchnology to keep the motors in synch. Any thoughts http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_47...36/key_/tm.htm
-peter
Thank you for the advice.. totally spaced on the CL, I meant FA. Also there's talk of twinsync tecchnology to keep the motors in synch. Any thoughts http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_47...36/key_/tm.htm
-peter
#25
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RE: tf dc3
Peter,
I did take a quick look at that type of unit. However, I opted to go for a radio that has two throttle curves for airplane use (JR9503). I was tempted to just go and sync the engines on the high and low ends, but kept reading about how it is better to keep them in sync through the entire throttle range. So I looked at a couple of options.
Since I wanted to get a 2.4 radio any way, I picked the more expensive option of a radio which had twin throttle curves. I think the setup will be fine using a tachometer and 5-point throttle curves to keep the engines within a couple hundred RPM. You set it up like old-school helicopter throttle/pitch curves.
Also, the twin sync needs to have a magnet and sensor. You would need to run some type of back plate behind the props to mount the magnet (just like on helicopters with governor magnets on the cooling fan)… I don’t know how that would work on props with no spinners. However, I did not read through all 36 pages of comments on that unit, there may be options for reading the back plate of the engine.
I did take a quick look at that type of unit. However, I opted to go for a radio that has two throttle curves for airplane use (JR9503). I was tempted to just go and sync the engines on the high and low ends, but kept reading about how it is better to keep them in sync through the entire throttle range. So I looked at a couple of options.
Since I wanted to get a 2.4 radio any way, I picked the more expensive option of a radio which had twin throttle curves. I think the setup will be fine using a tachometer and 5-point throttle curves to keep the engines within a couple hundred RPM. You set it up like old-school helicopter throttle/pitch curves.
Also, the twin sync needs to have a magnet and sensor. You would need to run some type of back plate behind the props to mount the magnet (just like on helicopters with governor magnets on the cooling fan)… I don’t know how that would work on props with no spinners. However, I did not read through all 36 pages of comments on that unit, there may be options for reading the back plate of the engine.