Toolman-RCU

My Feedback: (10)

I am half way through the build of my second Piper Seneca. My first was lost to a tip stall on take off after 5 years of service. This is a photo of my first Seneca. It utilized twin Supass 70's with three bladed props, and Spring Air retracts. Also had fully operational flaps, and a full stabilator like the full size aircraft. I will be posting photos here of my progress with the new build.

TLH101

My Feedback: (90)

Please do post he info. I have been interested in this plan for a long time.

bigstew60

My Feedback: (35)

I have these plans also but I haven't figured out how I would jig the fuselage to build. How did you frame you fuselage up.

Toolman-RCU

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To frame the Fuselage I did not use a jig although one should be used. The fuselage is comprised of three main crutches, and 35 formers. The three crutches are the lower, upper front and upper rear. Begin by marking the crutches with the former locations and then setting up the lower crutch on a flat builing board and use a stright edge to make sure it is stright tip to tail. You then brace the crutch using weights. Place all the formers in the proper location on the lower crutch and tack glue them in place. Add the two upper crutches and after making sure th formers are at a 90 degree angle to the builing board, tack glue the upper crutches to the formers in the proper locations. Next step is to add the wing saddles. Mark the former positions on the wing saddles and glue to the respective formers. I then added some 3/32 planking to the sides of the fuselage while carefully positioning them before glueing. The positioning of these planks is tricky if you are not using a jig because this will keep the framing square. Make sure you measure and remeasure before gluing these initial planks. Below is a photo of my framed fuselage.

Walter D

My Feedback: (16)

Beautiful aircraft, you did a great job, congratulations!
What a pity you had to lose it on a stupid take off, we should know better right?
I have the plans for this one, actually I made several copies and had one made of mylar (I think it is called, somehow I know it is the wrong name), so it would stay in good condition forever, as this airplane is probably one of the best rendition of any twin civilian aircraft, and just the right size too.
I have all the formers cut up and I did built the nacelles and that as far as I went. Seems to me though that this airplane is a bit overbuilt with so many formers (like the real one), and that it could be made with much less fuss, this airplane should fly just fine with two good .46 to .51 two stroke engines. How much did yours weigh and weren't the .70's a bit too much power for it, what type of finish did you have on it?

Toolman-RCU

My Feedback: (10)

Walter, thanks for the compliment. The reason it stalled on takeoff is because I fly from a grass field and it is a bit tough on the nosewheel retract. We had just moved to a newer and larger field but the grass was unusaully rough,and I tried too hard to get airborn. I learned alot during the first build and am making some modifications to this one. I will be using hardwood spars as opposed to balsa. I am also utilizing individual servo set ups for each aileron, flap and throttle. I am also making several lightening holes where I can because it was a bit on the heavy side at just under 13 lbs. The four stroke 70's are not too much power, in fact they are just right. I usually overpower most of my aircraft, so I now wish I had gone with 100's. You are right about the the added weight of the formers, you can see in the photos that not only do they add weight but they also take up alot of space in the radio compartment. I plan on removing some of the formers in that area. The original build was covered with Monokote. I think fiberglass will add too much weight to an already heavy plane, so I plan on covering this one with Ulatrcote.

bigstew60

My Feedback: (35)

Thanks for the info on the fuselgae. I think i will be my next project after I finish the p-51 I am building.

GRANT ED

Very nice looking model. Please keep us informed and keep those pics comming.

TexasAirBoss

My Feedback: (22)

Sah Weeet !!!

25 years I worked at an FBO that had several lease-back Senecas used for charters. I thought they were pretty then. You have captured their beauty completely !!!! I wish I could build like that !!!

Way to go , man !!!

steve2972

My Feedback: (2)

hi toolman,
I`ve just bought a piper seneca from the rc market, built from the jerry bugni plans.89" span fitted with 2 x satio 65`s and spring air retracts.
Hows your build coming along?Have you any more recent pics>
This is my first twin.
I would appreciate if you could pass on to me your experiences as regards to the flight caracteristics of this bird.Ie,hows the stall,does she drop a wing? Can you slow up nicely for landings,any pitch trim of elevator required with full flap.??

cheers man

Toolman-RCU

My Feedback: (10)

Here are some photos of the built up wing, notice the lightening holes in the nacelle crutches. Care must be taken in lining up the nacelles properly as the engine thrust angles are very important.

Steve, can you please post some photos for us on your new bird? As for flight charachtaristics, when trimmed properly, my Seneca flies like a low wing trainer, very stable. Landings with flaps are a dream, but if you do not have the plane balanced properly you will notice the plane will porpoise down the runway if it is tail heavy. As far as dropping a wing, it will stall if you try to take off with minimal airspeed. Ask me how I know.

steve2972

My Feedback: (2)

.I`m actually in the uk and will be shipping this plane over in the next week or so.Always wanted a twin like this,but have not got time to bulid.

I read about your take-off crash,damm shame.I`ll bear this in mind!!

Once I`ve received aircraft I`ll post some pics.

Thanks toolman for the info

Toolman-RCU

My Feedback: (10)

Here is a photo of the completed stabilator. The final sheeting will not be added until it is mounted to the fuselage and it will not be mounted until the fuselage is covered. I used a nylon nose wheel bearing to mount the 5/32" stabilator rod to the fuselage, and the two inner stab ribs are not secured until the stab is affixed to the rod.

steve2972

My Feedback: (2)

I finally got my Seneca from the states (rc universe).Very disappointed as the model needs loads of work doing.After doing some home work it actually turns out to constructed from the rcm plans like yours.First thing I`m going to need to do is some how get the stabilizer off as its "wobbles" and would probably fail in flight due to flutter.Have you any ideas? I think i`ll need to cut out part of the bottom of the fuzz to access this?Maybe I should try and get hold of the plans.Any help or advice on how this is constructed and how/if I could repair this would be appreciated.

cheers

Toolman-RCU

My Feedback: (10)

You will need to strip off the lower sheeting of the stabilator and cut an access hatch into the lower fuselage to see what type of set up was used. I made a removeable hatch on the lower rear of the fuselage to access and check the internal stabilator and rudder linkages. By the way, the stabilator will always have some wobble to it as there is just no way to totally eliminate it. Only once did I experience some flutter, but once I replaced the elevator servo with a heavy duty servo I had no further problems. Unless the plane is a total basket case, it can be restored as most of the hard work has been done. Post some photos if you can.

steve2972

My Feedback: (2)

Thanks for that.I won`t be starting anything on this until probably later in the Summer.Could I possibly take your email address so I can email you direct when I start?

cheers toolman

steve

szig

Toolman-RCU

I am designing a scratchbuild Seneca 1/5 scale. Can you give me some info about the RCM Seneca regarding to down, side thrust and wing and tail incidence.

Many thanks in advance.

Szig.

evlmagus

I recently ordered the plans for this. What series Spring Air Struts did you use?

hannu

Hi, nice to find other seneca projects going on, I´ve made mine enlarged to 95" span from RCM plans and it took 2-years to complete the project...lots of dust during construction! Engines 2x os 91 OS surpass, 9-servos and century jet retracts. Good luck to your projects!

greetings,

Hannu
Finland

jan brilman

VERY nice model.

How is yours coming along, Toolman?

Does anyone know of a good kit-cutter, who does this model/plan?


jan.

Jiminey Cricket

I am a first timer post. Been building sence 1985. I do have the RCM plans of the Piper Seneca II. I do agree with the other one that said the former should not be balsa1 and that there to many of them. J have cut out all of the airplane pieces. have the wing 1=3 done and the fuse ready to assemble. no pic yet and I do love realism in my planes. I have never used a kit cutter, so I could not give good input on that issue, sorry

Mooney_driver

Nice looking planes. The Seneca as sure a beautiful plane.

Is anyone using electrics on these? What are you using?

Jiminey Cricket

I found that at KITCETTERS.COM they have many of the RCM planes, including the Piper seneca II. alonge with many other such as Don Smith, Ziroli,ect.
Slow going on mine, just because I'm very busy, but I keep building.
Although I have never used Kit Cutters, They seem reputable.

pulsartomi_2

Hi guys,

I've almost finished the "wooden parts" of the wing and fuselage (wing needs the lower sheeting).I noticed that the fuselage is much more lighter than the wing.I will measure it, but I guess too much glue/too heavy material was used.Can you please tell me the weight of the wing and the fuselage with or without servos, etc.?Thank you.I will post some photos if you are interested.It's the 85 inch wingspan size (Jerry Bugni).

Cheers, Tomi

hattend

My Feedback: (20)

Since most of the heavy parts (engines, tanks, landing gear, etc) are in the wing, that's why it is so heavy. The Duellist is the same way.

Don't worry about it. Most twins are way overpowered.

Don