Blade47

I am going to give that option a go then. Just to get the ahhhhh ohhhh factor up

Dave in UAE

Morning

I may have missed it somewhere over the many pages in the 2 threads so I apologize now for asking a repetitve question.

I am going to be using a pair of gas engines on my Don Smith Mosquito and the engine provider uses CH ignitions as part of his package, would I be beter off sticking with the ignition packs as well as the Twinsync or will one fight the other. From what I have read so far the twinsync is the way to go, however just looking for a bit of info to clear up my muddled-up mind.

Dave

yl5295

My Feedback: (1)

If you want to use the TwinSync with Gas engines with electronic ignition (which several customers are already flying with this config), you run with what you have and add the included RPM sensors to use the magnets already on your crankshafts. Then you connect the throttle servos into the TwinSync and then plug the TwinSync into the throttle channel on the receiver. That's all you have to do.

TwinSync in no way is impacted by or impacts the use or operation of electronic ignitions.

Blade47

[X(] Well isn't that cool [X(] my spinners finally came in and I installed the magnet ( the right face out to get the green light ) and now I know that my Hanger 9 HD starter turns over at 300 +/- rpm on the LED display .... Bill? is the the green light to stay on as the the rpm builds up? mine flickers as it spins up but seems to miss a beat or two.

PS: I had to rebalanced the Dave Brown spinner after magnet was install ..but I have well balanced now ( took a 1/2 hour each )

yl5295

My Feedback: (1)

300 or 3000? Take display x10 for RPM. What you observe is normal.

Bill

Blade47

If that's the case it shows on the display 300 x 10 would be 3000 ..good to know thanks ..man the display will be nice when I tweak the engines up

yl5295

My Feedback: (1)

PS... extra magnets are $1.50 per pair. You can rebalance the spinners by buying an extra set of magnets and installing them 180 deg apart on the spinner and facing them other direction so that the sensors do not detect them (1-2 minutes vs. 30 min.). Sensors should only detect one magnet per rotation... there are cases where one might want two magnets but it would be an extreme cases for scale competition aircraft only where sync is customized for servo and carb geometry and sync accuracy can be increased from 100-130rpm to <50rpm.

Not easy to do...

I keep waiting for an email from the serious twin engine scale competitors asking for it... any takers.... If anyone has Greg Hahn's email address please email it to me.

Blade47

Bill: With time on my hands I connected the rudder servo to a "Y" cable and attached the it to the ALX channel...changed mode 6 to rudder and tested .... found that my rudder nose gear responded correct but the engine respond to the same side I am trying to turn into ...is there away to reverse the engine input?

in other words ...standing behind the plane and give left stick the right engine should increase ... right?

UkerDuker

My Feedback: (3)

I need some assistance from a Twinsync guru. I finally got everything together and the perfect weather to do some ground runs. I'm having an issue with the starting of the second engine. Here's the details:

1- fueled up
2- All batteries charged, RX and both onboard glow
3- THrottle travels set: H150, L100
4- THrottle servos are normal, not reversed
5- Either engine starts fine, onboard glow works great
6- WHen starting the second engine, it surges a few hundred RPMs, then both engines shut down.

Any ideas?

Mike

yl5295

My Feedback: (1)

Blade47,

Exhange engine servo and sensor connections on the twin sync and you have reverse the rudder steering direction. Rudder steer is not disabled on a dead engine. I think it probably should be now thinking about it.

UkerDuker,

You need to reprogram your idle points. Idle point are the lowest position the Twinsync can move the throttles. So it is either trying to sync them too low or trying to idle them and killing them. Even though you are at 150/100% I have found different brands of radios are very different in their timings. So unless you have a Futaba 9C set at 100/100% you will have to reprogram idle and full throttle points.

So here are the Steps to follow:

FIRST MAKE SURE DIRECTION IS CORRECT...
1. Make sure both yellow LEDs are off at idle. (if not you need to increase your idle EPA or throttle on transmitter is backwards and should be reverse (some brands have to be reversed).
2. Move stick off idle and one Yellow LED should come on just above idle.

For 1.4.x and Software: NEXT SET IDLE POINT, FULL THORTTLE, AND SYNC ENGAGEMENT POINT
1. Move your EPA (high and low) where you want them (at least 100% for most accurate sync).
2. Power up twin sync with rotary switch in position 3. Move throttle stick to where you want the TwinSync to idle them on a dead stick. Push each button once until the yellow led flashes. This sets the lowest point the TwinSync can move the throttles while both engines are running.
3. Move Rotary switch to position 5. Move stick to full throttle. Then push the button furthest away for the rotary. This sets the full throttle point.
4. Now move the stick to just above idle to where you want the sync unit to engage. Push the button closest to the rotary switch. This sets the Sync engagement point.
5. Move rotary switch to 0 and you are done.

For 1.2.X software (no one should have the older 1.1.X software that was sent out with beta units at this point) then the following is what you do. (If you purchased from RCS then you have 1.2.X or newer.)
1. move stick to high idle.
2. power on unit with rotary in pos 3. After lights stop flashing push each button to set idle point of each engine.
3. Move stick to full throttle and move rotary switch to pos 5.
4. Press each button once to set full throttle position.
5. Turn switch to 0 and you are done.

UkerDuker

My Feedback: (3)

yl5295.

OK, SOunds like a plan. I know the yellow LED were off at idle. I did this by adjusting the Low endpoint. I thought this would fix it, but I guessed wrong.

By reading the instructions, I assumed the unit was setup to plug and play. (Guess thats what I get for assuming) Let me try to set points on the unit, and give it another try.

I cant wait to hear this engines purr.

THanks,
Mike

Blade47

OK I will change them out and let you know how that works to reverse

second question.
" Make sure both yellow LEDs are off at idle. "? ARE both yellow led to be on as you increase throttle? I only have the one come on.

Blade47

Ooops Just read the rest of your post a little closer and it answered my question " 2. Move stick off idle and one Yellow LED should come on just above idle."

UkerDuker

My Feedback: (3)

OK, I think I fixed one problem and created another. I followed your pervios instructions, but the yellow light did not "flash". It stayed on when I pressed each botton for the first step.

Now when I run up, both start, but they do not sync from my sync point. As I increase the throttle, they sync and they both alternate by surging to full throttle. WHen I get to full throttle, the sync last for a few seconds, then one engine drops back to idle. If I continuously move the throttle, they both stay in sync, but only for a few seconds.

THis plane will have plenty of power when I get the two to sync in all throttle positions! I was afraid to let my rebar posts try to hold it back at full throttle.

Mike

UkerDuker

My Feedback: (3)

yl5295

My Feedback: (1)

If you got your unit from RCS the last month or two then you have 1.4.1. I just wrote these instructions above in my post from memory so the leds maybe should stay on.

I think I know your problem. I think you have the starboard engine sensor connected to the port sensor connection and vice versa. Look at your manual and I expect that you have version 1.4.1. on this version the connections are the following:

top connector = Sensor engine 1
second connector = Sensor engine 2
third connector = Engine 2 servo
fourth connector = Engine 1 servo
Fifth conn = throttle from RX
sixth conn = aux chan (optional)

All other SW versions third and forth connectors are the otherway:
third connector = engine 1 servo
forth connector = engine 2 servo

Bill

UkerDuker

My Feedback: (3)

I do believe I got it. I had the servo connections backwards. I could have sworn I set those up correctly. I will try to run it again in the morning.

WHen the engines did sync up, it sounded awesome!! I'm glad I purchased this unit.

THanks for the prompt help Bill.

Mike

yl5295

My Feedback: (1)

Tomorrow should be great weather in TN like it is in NC. Go fly it!!! Drop me an email to [email protected] with your cell # if you need help (I get email on my cell phone) and I can call you from the flying field where I will be flying tomorrow.

UkerDuker

My Feedback: (3)

Bill,

No flying tomorrow or anytime soon. I'm just doing all the ground testing before I begin priming and painting. I dont have any control surfaces mounted yet. I'm shooting for a spring maiden flight.

Where do you fly in Raleigh? I was down in Fayetteville a few weeks ago, and went to a flyin at Peidmont Aeromodelers, north of town. It was a huge turn out.

Mike

UkerDuker

My Feedback: (3)

Bill,

Everything works great now. Leave it to me to screw up the installation. WIth both engines running in sync, it purrs!

THanks for all the help,
Mike

Blade47

Bill! Do you have a list yet of possible updates for 1.4.x ?

yl5295

My Feedback: (1)

The most recent firmware is 1.4.3. This turns the centering function back on that has been disabled for a while. The only other planned update at this point is to disable rudder steer mode if running only on one engine (1.4.4 when some one asks for it).

Thanks for a post ... this thread was moving way down the list...

BTW this thing has now saved my P-38 twice. 5 flights and two one engine landings!!!.

Bill

Blade47

Well I will step up to the plate and ask for the the Rudder disable mode for sure. My list when I send the IC down for updates are 1) servo connects switched around 2) centering turned on 3) Rudder disable mode.

Have you had any other reports from the field about the unit? ... On your engine outs how low do you have your throttle set to come back to? 1/3 1/2?

yl5295

My Feedback: (1)

Current 1.4.3 software has everything you want except disable rudder steer on one engine. Send it when ever you want and I will update it.

I have mine set to go to high idle on engine out.

All reports are great with no issues found.

I thought I would post a couple of pic of my install on the P38 as the recomended method. Note that these engine are mounted inverted so pic is with the plane upside down. The sensor mount is 1/8" 5-ply plywood epoxy coated. The end of the mount, the sensors and the wires were then completely coated with epoxy so that the sensor leads will not be broken by vibration. This should work for any cowl configuration and it senses RPM through the fiberglass cowl on this installation.

gsmith6879

My Feedback: (37)

This is an "Attaboy" for Bill and his TwinSync!

We made the first flight on my buddy's C160 today with the TwinSync on a pair of Thunder Tiger .32s. The onboard glow drivers worked perfectly and the system synced the little engines easily. We had some serious problems with elevator trim. While trying to get enough up elevator trim and not succeeding, one engine quit at about 1/2 throttle. Now I have an airplane that wants to dive for the ground when I let up on the elevator and one engine out. The good news is that the TwinSync immediately pulled the running engine back to high idle and I was able to get the airplane back on the ground with no major damage. Some minor repairs and a new prop will get us back in the air. Without the TwinSync the chances of getting it back was near zero!