F82FAN

My Feedback: (10)

Nope, It pitches down just a bit, so I add about three percent of "up" when the flaps are full down to help it get the nose up. Nothing at mid-flap.

gary9648

My Feedback: (1)

I just received the replacement wooden inner wing spars and front canopy. I assembled the wing and found I too have the drouping wing syndrome. See photo. Andy told me another shipment of the replacement wing panels should be in in a couple of weeks. This will give me time to install the Dynamic Balsa interrior and gun kit. As far as engines goes, first choice were Fuji 24s, but when Andy told us about the neat little 26s with rear induction we changed our mind. I'll get a phot of one, course you can see them on their web site.

John8861

My Feedback: (2)

Gary,

I just took delivery of this B 25. Is yours the one with the composite wings, mine is? My front canopy also looks as if it were soaked in paint thinner.

The wings don't fit together at all well, is this why you got new inner wing spars? I find that mine are too short and don't fit very well. They also gave me 2 left rudders, so I will have to have them change that out as well.
Finally, you mentioned your dynamic balsa interior. I checked out the web site and it looks great. Is this already painted? I got the one from KMP and it looks like it will take me a month to get it painted and installed, a lot of work.

Thanks,

John

vmsguy

In case anybody is interested....

The history channel has a DVD for sale "Inside the B-25". I bought a copy a couple weeks ago, and finally watched it last night.

Man.. the inside is tight! The pilot and co-pilot were literally shoulder to shoulder. For the show they got together some of the only remaining WWII crew members. And took them up. The "Co-Pilot" was Jimmy Doolittle's co-pilot for the Tokyo Raid...

They showed a place in California that restores them. In the show, they had two aircraft in the process of being restored. You got a wonderful look at the wheel well and the myriad of hydaulic cables located within. And a great look at the bomb-bay....

Was it a deep technical look for the scale fanatics and history buffs? No.. But it was interesting.. none-the-less.

Oh... one more thing that I learned... (or I knew at one time and since forgot)... The B-25 was also used by the Navy/Marines. The PBJ-1 (various variants)

I think it'd be fun if KMP offered a PBJ variant.. I'd think it wouldn't be too hard to change the paint scheme, and swap out a few parts as needed to have a PBJ...

As popular as the B-25 is among us RCers. the PBJ variant would be a fun alternative who might want something a little different...

gary9648

My Feedback: (1)

Hi John, It seems that the first kits came missing the wooden spars as mine was one of the first run. I have the build up wing panels. The front canopy was cracked in shipping and need replaced. If you go back a few pages you will read of a problem with the first run of kits had anhdral in the outer wing panels when assembled. As in my photo. They (KMP) reconized the problem and built new outer wing panels to correct the problem. That is where I am now. The Dynamic Balsa interriot is not painted or cut out. This is a kit. It comes in three big bags. The cockpit, front gunners cockpit, and gun turret. I don't knoiw for sure if they have a painted version. You have to cut and fit a lot of pieces to your aircraft. Hey it's snowing and blowing right now so back to the skunk works cave to watch the military channel and work on the B-25. I am very fortunate to live very close to the National museum of the US Air Force. I do volunteer work there and have climbed all over most of the aircraft including the B-25. I was there when they dedicated the Dolittle display and met all of the remaining Raiders at the time. There were also members of the Hornets crew present. Very moving. One of the Raiders who was a prisoner of war in Japan, that went back as a missionary was there also. I can not imagine after what they did to this man that he wanted to dedicate his life to going back as a missionary to Japan. Talk about forgiveness. On another note the B-25 on display is a early version and is not useful to build this model of the B-25
Gary

kahloq

Well, I bought some dubro 5" wheels to try before spending big bucks on more scale looking ones. I dont like the look of them, but figured I better test fit first and see if the 5" size raised the back end up enough or if I needed to go to 5 1/2" size for the mains.
Thats about all i can do with these tires as the hubs are really wide. I didnt realize they were that wide when i picked them up at the store because you cant see the backside when theya re still on the blister card.
There is no room on the axle to even put a wheel collar to hold them on(note...I did already cut down the axle a little because the length was hitting on the "gear door" cover openings).
So....no matter what...I will have to either use a much smaller nose wheel that looks off size...or buy some expensive type wheels/hubs that are designed to put brakes inside since the width of the axle hole will be much narrower.

mustfly

My Feedback: (21)

I'm just to lazy to change it..don't have a 12 year old anyway!!...My [] youngest[/u] is 27 years old!! YIKES!!! [][]....BUT I DO have 4 grand kids that r Brad 16 [sm=punching.gif], Nick 14 [sm=49_49.gif], Jelly 12 [sm=spinnyeyes.gif]and Mark 9 [sm=shades_smile.gif]..from my 32 yr old daughter [sm=drowning.gif]..why do I all of a sudden feel old? [:'(][:'(] and they could probably do it for me but it doesn't really bother me[:'(][:'(]..altho the wife does have her date & time correct on HER camera

mustfly

My Feedback: (21)

Yes I do have them..they r already put in and they work fine but thanks for the tip

Lifer

My Feedback: (1)

Any opinions/observations on the rubber band system used to attach the wings? Suggestions and/or pictures on alternative systems would be appreciated.

Thanks!

Rip n Bank

Lifer,

The four of us KMP-B-25 owners Eldher referred to earlier are considering alternate ways to positively and securely lock the wing panels into place in a relatively brief amount of time at the airfield, yet let them be removable for transportation. Sorry, but rubber bands just don't cut it!

My suggested solution is still theoretical; I haven't received my replacement wing panels, yet, on which to try it. My proposal is based on the premise that the tubular spar is permanently epoxied to the nacelle, and the wing panel then slides onto the spar (as opposed to the other way around). This is because access to the tubular spar "receiving tube" in the wing panel could be made to have easier access (via an access panel, discussed below) than appears possible in the nacelle with the lower gear cover in place.

In this proposed scenario, you would then build an access panel, between the ribs, in the bottom of the wing panel (like a flap servo panel) directly under the fiberglass spar receiving tube. For easy, quick field access, this panel could be hinged on the leading-edge side, and held closed with rare earth magnets on the trailing edge.

With the access panel cut, you should have access to some length of the spar receiving tube exterior between the ribs. This receiving tube wall should probably be reinforced (metal strip, hardwood, plywood, + fiberglass and epoxy) where you plan to drill for a retention bolt. BTW, this proposed reinforcing of the spar receiving tube is the reason for suggesting an access panel; otherwise, a sleeved screw hole in the wing, from the sheeting to the spar, would perhaps be enough.

Next, with the wing tip panel slid onto the spar, and tightly fitted to the nacelle, one would drill a hole in the reinforcing strip, spar receiving tube and the spar itself with a proper size tap drill bit, then remove the wing panel. You would then tap the threads into the hole in the spar (tapping for, say, a 4-40 bolt). A larger diameter bolt might even be better (eg, 5-40 or 6-32), but the bolt's pitch should remain high because of the tubular spar wall thickness.

The hole in the spar receiving tube and reinforcement strip would then need to then be slightly enlarged to match the diameter of the locking screw threads.

The leading and trailing edge dowel rod guides will help to hold the wing tip panel in alignment on the spar after the retention screw is inserted.

Now, perhaps there are better (or easier) ways to do this, I just haven't heard or thought of one, yet. I plan to study it more intently when I receive my new wing tip panels soon .

Rip

kahloq

My idea is to use large rare earth magnets imbedded in the wing panels with a metal strip of some form imbedded in the nacelle. Clean and no hatch panels required....but....unknown how well this will "hold" until I do try it.

Lifer

My Feedback: (1)

Rip and Kahlog,

Thank you both for taking the time to respond. Both ideas have merit and have generated some workable ideas. In reality, the bottom of the wing lacks a lot of aesthetics as it has several pushrods, control horns, etc. sticking out, so any additional disturbances won't really matter. I thought of possibly painting a small, plywood disc to match and gluing it to the outside of the wing centered over the tube near it's end on the wing panel. Drill thru the disc, the wing, and into the tube. Open up the holes for clearance in the disc and the wing, remove the tube and fit a short dowel for a tight fit into the last 25% of the tube for a socket-head sheet metal screw to engage. Harden the threads in the wood with CA. Servicable, minimum of cutting on the wing structure, and little impact on the appearance (on the bottom). Opinions?

Again, thanks to both of you for responding!

Eldher

While I think your idea will work, the only thing I'd look at is the reinforcement of the wood where the screw goes in. While you say that you'll harden it with CA I fear that it might open up with time. why not glue in a washer or something to add some strength?


As for my plane, here's some more progress. All of it mounting the TwinSync (main unit in wing, RPM sensor on engine, remote monitoring display plugs into socket on top of wing).

Eldher

Also got my new wing tips. Here's some picts. The wing tip on the left side of the photo (right wing) is the ORIGINAL tip. The wing tip on the right side of the photo (left wing) is the NEW tip.

It is better then the original. But there's a good amount of slop in the joint and the fit of the wing root to the nacell root is not great. It can all be worked with though. But will definite take more than just sliding it on and securing it with screws, magnets, or whatever.

kahloq

I have not received my replacement wingtips yet

F82FAN

My Feedback: (10)

Have you contacted Tomas at www.vqwarbirds.com ???
He seems to be able to get things done when I hit some snags....
Just a thought!
Get the rest done. Those outer panels will be there soon enough!!!

kahloq

Contacting Thomas wouldnt do me much good as I didnt buy the plane through him. Andrew Kondor is "well-aware" I am supposed to get the wingtips. i have been in direct contact with him and was told he was shipping them out personally. This was 3 over weeks ago though and before Eldher13 received his shipment. So........not sure what to think about that at the moment.

F82FAN

My Feedback: (10)

I'd try him anyway... He has the connections!

John8861

My Feedback: (2)

Hey guys, I finally got my plane over to Robart and we are beginning to decide what retracts, wheels and brakes would work. I can tell you that it is really a treat to go back to the warehouse and just pull stuff off the shelf instead of measuring and hoping what you order will fit. Here is what we have come up with so far. We tried the 630 series retract, it was a perfect drop in fit. However, I like the size of the larger 635 series, much beefier all the way around and all you need to do is just shave a 16th off each side to fit. They have a 5 inch tuff tread tire with matching 10 spoke rim. You can get brakes to match as well if you like. A 3 1/4 nose wheel with a foam liner takes care of the nose.
The length of the struts, both mains and nose we don't have yet. Since my plane is not assembled we are having a hard time knowing how long they should be.

I have two requests:
1. Does anyone have the genV retracts from KMP that they would be willing to send to Robart for proper measurment? They will measure and return.
2. How many of you would like to have a set of retracts, wheels etc. for this plane from Robart?

If anyone would like to call me and discuss this further please call me.

Thanks,

John
312-518-0075

nemesis4u

My Feedback: (77)

WELL,

I'd be happy to assist you...

I ALSO have good news for all you "GEAR HEADS" (sorry couldn't resist the urge for a pun)

I have the CJM KMP B-25 gear ready to ship MONDAY!!

IF YOU WANT A SET THESE ARE READY FOR YOU with STRUTS attached, warrantied by CJM. Come as GEAR ONLY or with complete airsystem...

I am a ROBART, CJM DEALER.... I am interested in assisting modelers with what they want and so I have been working with CJM and now I have ROBART as well... YOU ASK FOR IT , YOU WILL GET IT!

Just email me offline for a "SPECIAL DEAL" on the gear...

[email protected]

visit my website ,,, I will be adding all the optional gear soon... But for now just email me...

-THANKS...

-TOMAS
www.vqwarbirds.com
[email protected]

"KEEP EM' FLYING"

PA757

Ok Guys,

It's been awhile since I've posted here! I have a KMP B25 for sale! Put a lot of money into her but got discouraged with the droopy wings and delay getting the new ones!

I did FINALLY get the new outer wing panels but have done nothing with them, just like the Princess, they take up space in my garage collecting dust!

This bird needs to fly but it wont happen here! If someone needs the new wings and some spare parts; or hopefully finish her and make her fly...give me an offer!

Otherwise she may end up at the target range full of holes!

Email me!

F82FAN

My Feedback: (10)

This is SAD.
You should finish one of them. It is totally worth it.
She's a lot more reliable than most girlfriends, too....

Eldher

New update ... lock for removable wing tips. I didn't care for the rubber band method to hold the wind tips on. So I cross drilled the whole assembly ply, fiberglass tube, and wing aluminum tube. Then inserted an aluminum sleve in 2 parts. Part 1 is glued in the wing aluminum tube, part 2 is glued in the ply structure of the nacell. these 2 are the alignment tubes. Then I cut a brass tube and glued a wood dowel into it for a little added strength. this runs through BOTH alignment tube to lock the wing tip in place. The brass tube and alignment tube are then cross drilled to accep a cotter pin. When the brass tube is in the unlock position I hook a "REMOVE BEFORE FLIGHT" label on to remind me to lock the wing tip in place. You'll note that the alignment tube runs through at an angle. This is so that it does not block access to the tank.

See photos.

Eldher

The wing tubes and alignment pins are glued it. Lock mechanism done. Wing now assembled.

Just need to mount the ailerons and flaps and cowls and the wing will be just about finished.

There is definitely a lot of building in this plane, ARF really doesn't quite get it.

Air_Walker

I need some help from you experts. I dry fit the rudder/vertical stabilizer and there is about 2 1/2 degrees outward offset on each side. I assume they should be straight but would like some confirmation. It's there due to the airfoil shape of the fin.