321willy

I have a new FZ110S and am trying to break it in. I have read and followed the instructions, set the LS needle to 3 turns and the HS needle to 1 1/4 turns. I am using coolpower heli 30%.
I have managed to get it running for a few minutes but then it just decides to die, or run backwards. I have tried leaning and richening both needles buy 1/4 turns, and it still won't stay running. There is lots of fuel dripping from the engine. What is the setting for the regulator? There is no mention of this in the instructions. Should it be flush with the case as said for the 110? What should I try next? I have tried contacting YS and there answering machine says they will not be back in the office until July 9. So I am hoping for some help here....

Thanx. Jason

Troy Newman

On the 110S the regulator screw is below the case portion on the external regulator.

Mine is about 1/32" or so.

If its dripping fuel from the carb, then the regulator is not closing. Dial it Lean (CW) in about 1/2 turn and try it.

Also the starting values for the HS are about 2 turns and the Low end air bleed screw at 3 turns open is not doing anything at all. You are trying to lean the low end obviously by dialing this screw out...But after about 2.5 turns its already full open. Remember as I have said before in these forums this is not a Low speed needle valve it is an air bleed screw. It controls the size of an air opening in the throttle barrel. It meters air not fuel.

This air bleed is backwards normal needle valve adjustments. Out is lean and IN is rich.

If the engine is still super rich on the low end.....adjust the regulator screw for course adjustment and the air bleed is to fine tune it.

Starting setting are 2 turns on the HS

1.5 turns on the air bleed...and you already know you need to lean the regualtor to help get it to close. Dripping fuel out the carb is a sign that regulator is not closing off. tightening that reg screw a little will help this issue.

Troy Newman
Team YS

321willy

thanks Troy, I will try this and post later if needed.

321willy

Well I tried your needle settings, and it still will not run more than about 20 seconds. I have to be missing something here.. If i turn the reg screw in there is only about 1/4 to 1/2 turn left untill it is fully closed.

321willy

i checked everything again and it still just runs for a bout 10 to 20 seconds then dies or runs backwards for a few.. i have tried turning the reg screw in and it stops the fuel dripping but .. is there anything else i can check? or trry?

JakeDaSnake18

My Feedback: (4)

Im having the same exact problem with my new FZ63S! Its doing the same thing, I boxed it up and sent it off today... me and 5 buddies tried mine, 2 of them nitro engine experts... never seen one they couldn't get to run!

Good luck,
Jake

321willy

yes i have also had a few buddies look at mine, Two of them with 110's and they could not get it going. I guess i will try a few more times tomorrow (new plug again, maybe some 20 20 fuel and maybe some new luck..) If still no go I guess i'll have to send it back. I wonder what the turn around time is for them to look at it??

Troy Newman

The regulator screw should never run near closed. This would be super lean....on the regulator and would cause backfire and running backwards.....

However since it pouring fuel and the regulator screw is nearly close the plunger is not closing. FOr what ever reason. It could be dirt or debris or it could be a defective plunger. Its hard to tell without looking at it. THE REGUALTOR should NEVER run nearly closed like this.

I would suggest that you may need to send it in...


As far as Jake I responded to your thread as well. I would say you need to adjust your regulator leaner.

Troy Newman
Team YS

321willy

how many turns out is yor reg screw set at? would the fuel dripping be because i have the engine mounted upside-down in the plane? (showtime 90) ??

JakeDaSnake18

My Feedback: (4)

I never tried mine closed, but I did go 1/4 turn out... I also noticed a steady stream of bubbles in the line from the reg to the carb, but not from the tank to the reg.!

Later,
Jake

Troy Newman

No the fuel dripping from the carb is not because its upside down its because the plunger in the regulator is not closing. There are numerous reasons it could not be closing. Dirt is your fuel is one big one. A small piece of crap could be in there keeping it from closing. The plunger could be damaged in some way this is another reason it is not closing. And the last reason that comes to me is that there is not enough pressure on it from the spring that is controlled by the regulator screw. IF YOUR ENGINE has the regulator at a nearly closed position THIS IS NOT YOUR PROBLEM.

I don't know how many turns from full closed the regulator screw should be. The reason is the regulator screw controls pressure on a little spring, that pushes down a plunger to a diaphragm. Closing the regulator screw down until stops could possibly in a parallel universe when Pluto is in phase cause damage to the diaphragm or plunger. So maybe by dialing the regulator screw down all the way it could have damaged it I don't know for sure.

I can tell you that my 110S runs with the regulator screw about 1/32 to 1/64" below the rim of the regulator case. Its not flush its inside flush but a small amount. It is about 1/2 to 3/4 turn lower than flush with the case.

If there is a little piece of dirt or debris in the regulator then no matter how much pressure you put on that spring its not going to close.

I think 321 that you are at the point where you should send it to parts and service. They will repair your engine under warranty if its new and has a problem. They also run every engine that they work on so when you get it back you'll know the engine is good and you need to find the proper settings. Right now I'm afraid your engine is just too far off the mark. It could have flaw in the regulator or the plunger. without having my actual hands on your engine I would not know. Ys engines are a bit different beasts than other glow engines. They are not really temper-mental but they are less tolerant of some things than other engines. There is a method that you should use to set them up....

when you get your engine back from Parts and Service, use the following link to get it setup.

http://www.probuild-uk.co.uk/factsheets/ys_engines.php

Richard and the crew that run YS Parts and Service are top notch and can get you fixed up.

Troy Newman
Team YS

raych

321willy:

Before you send your 110 in try this:

Regulator backed out 3 turns from closed.

High speed needle at 1.5.

Idle mixture at 1.5.

I was having the same troubles until I tried these settings.

Ray

321willy

thanx for the replies, I finally did get it running.. i noticed a leak (fuel bubbling) around one of the intake screws. A closer look showed that the screw was not properly seating to the casing - appeared to be a bad cast. I shaved off the tinny bump of metal and reinstalled the screw. No more leak. I now have the LS set at 1 1/2 turns out and the HS at about 1 1/2 also. The REG screw is about 1 1/2 turns out and it runs fine. Still very rich but running without quiting. I have run 2 tanks of 30% heli threw it on the ground and 1 tank in the air without any stalls.. So far so good. Please let me know if these settings sound far off to what they should be. I am going to try turning the REG out a bit more then resetting HS and LS again because it does sound by your post RAYCH that the REG it is too lean.

Troy Newman

Sounds great. those are the little things that its hard to think of or tell people about when on the internet trying to diagnose the engines.


Use the tach test to set the low end and regulator.

First set HS needle at peak then back off 300rpm.

Next set idle for exactly 2000rpm using transmitter trim. Watch the rpm if it surges up and down then its lean and if it slowly dies off its rich. I only watch the idle on the ground for the first 30-45 seconds. After than it should start to load up just a little. Adjust the low end air bleed screw to get this setting.

Next is the regulator set the engine throttle so you have exactly 4000 rpm. Watch the tach and see if its surging up and down then its lean richen the reg. If its loading up and slowing down its rich on the reg.

Once you adjust the regulator at all you need to start over at the top of the list and do it again. The regulator setting will affect all the other mixture settings.

Beware not to run the engine for really long extended periods of time on the ground. Especially at full throttle. This will heat it up and when the engine gets too hot no setting you make will do any good and you will chase your tail. When the engine is on the ground it doesn't get good cooling. Especially since so many parts of the country are pretty warm this time of year. So beware this issue. Run it 4-5 mins and then shut it down and let it cool completely. PHX Arizona was 118deg F yesterday so I know about too hot.

Glad you have it taken care of and sneak up on the settings. make it reliable and fly it. The minor tweaks every couple flights to get it dead on.


Enjoy

Troy Newman
Team YS

321willy

Thanx again Troy, I am sure now with your finall tuning tips I will get it running just perfect.

show871

You state that the ls screw setting start point is 1.5, and full out @ 2.5 turns, yet the manual states 3 out is the standard factory setting. On the new 110, what is the best LS starting point????? Could you please explain this contradiction????????

Thanks

871

Troy Newman

I just took my 110S apart to look at the air bleed hole. On the 110S the air bleed hole is larger actually its an oval hole longer than on previous engines. Hence the air bleed screw has a broader adjustment. At 3 turns open the Hole is about 50% exposed.


I still believe that it is best to start on the rich side of things and lean it out from there rather than start where it could be too lean and try to figure out which way it is going.

I stand by my 1.5 turn starting point on this screw. Feel free to use the manual setpoint...Again starting points are just that and you will have to adjust the settings based on you specific circumstances. Your fuel choices, elevation, temps, prop choices and so on will all affect this setting. The factory can't give you one setting that works in all circumstances. At 1.5 turns open is should be on the rich side for the idle.

The air bleed screw doesn't set the idle mixture it fine tunes the setting that is on the regulator. It allows the regulator to be rich enough for a good transition yet allows you to lean out the absolute bottom end 2000rpm idle so that it is not too rich and loading up.

Its not a needle valve and doesn't control fuel flow.


Previously I was not aware of the this change to the throttle barrel. My 110S has Japanese instructions and I don't read Japanese. Sorry It works just like the other YS engines. The starting points I gave work.


Troy Newman
Team YS

show871

Thanks for the clarification. Yea, I was digging up some info and noticed the conflict. Actually....I think I am pretty happy at 2.75 out (i think i am a tad richer LS cause the regulator has been leaned). any leaner and my idle goes way up at the end of my flight for my landing. (i assume this is a lean condition and the warmed up motor amplifies it????). If i go to 2.5 out....my engine coughs and dies on T/O

Thanks to your help my 110 is just a powerhouse!!!!

16.5x5.5 @ 9500 5000ASL

871

Troy Newman

Up there in Colorado at the 5000ft...you will tend to be leaner on the settings than a guy that is at sea level. Not only is there less air up there but also the air is really dry....not quite like where I'm at in Arizona.

I always found in Denver that settings were quite a bit leaner. So take a 1.5 turns on that low end and lean it a little 1/2 to 3/4 turn for just elevation and its close. remember all the engines will be a bit different that is why they have an adjustment. Fuel will also play a huge role too.

A 30% nitro will require a richer setting than say a 15-20% nitro fuel. I thicker oil compared to the Heli 30% low viscosity oil will also require a change especially on the low end.

There are just so many things that go into it.....I was actually surprised at the way they did the air bleed hole. Its a little longer than wide. On previous engines the hole is round, But this one is closer to the edge of the barrel and it is longer than it is wide. I would say thats an improvement. It allows you to run the regulator richer, and still lean it out for the idle.

Just because yours is at the 2.75 turns open doesn't mean its rich on the low end....do the tests with a tach and it will tell the story on where things are.

Glad you are enjoying the engine.

Troy Newman
Team YS

Nothrottle

Troy Newman, you out there? My YS 110 is sick, help ! :}

petec

My Feedback: (58)

Troy doesn't monitor RCU any longer....but there are a few of us here to help.

Start a new thread with your question so we can keep track of the issues and make it easier for others to search for answers.