Dingo Help Please!
#1
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Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Brighton,
CO
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Dingo Help Please!
Originally posted this on the Pattern Forum, but definitely more appropriate here.....(Thanks for the PM and suggestion onewasp!)
I have a 140 DZ that has been going through plugs at a rate of 1 every two flights. Went out this weekend and went through 5 plugs! Two weeks ago I went through 3. Both YS and OS F plugs, doesn't seem to matter. The problem seems to have gotten worse since I switched fuels. I used to run Coolpower 30% Heli and recently swicthed to PowerMaster 30% DZ blend. I did burn plugs also with Coolpower, but not like with the PM DZ.
Here are some specifics that may help:
YS 140 DZ
prop: APC 16-12
Plugs used: YS and OS F
Pump setting: 1/2 turn IN (rich) from flush
needle setting: 2 clicks shy (lean) of 2 turns
Static WOT RPM: 8400
Elevation: 5300 ft.
With respect to the needle setting, I do seem to have a funny "double peak", one at the above setting and another at about 2-3/4 turns out. However the richer setting is slightly less in RPM (8200) and feels too rich in flight (loads up during throttle up and leaves a lot of smoke trail)
I have tried to go leaner, but I get detonation and and some banging at the mid-range transition. It really doesn't like to run at anything less than what I have listed. I have heard of others at my altitude running much leaner than this (1 to 1.25 tuns on the needle).
I haven't messed much with the pump....I have run it flush and 1/2 turn IN from flush, where it seems to work a bit better (better transition from idle).
Any suggestions??
Thanks,
-Erik
P.S. Thanks for the comments Troy....I'll send you a PM soon.
I have a 140 DZ that has been going through plugs at a rate of 1 every two flights. Went out this weekend and went through 5 plugs! Two weeks ago I went through 3. Both YS and OS F plugs, doesn't seem to matter. The problem seems to have gotten worse since I switched fuels. I used to run Coolpower 30% Heli and recently swicthed to PowerMaster 30% DZ blend. I did burn plugs also with Coolpower, but not like with the PM DZ.
Here are some specifics that may help:
YS 140 DZ
prop: APC 16-12
Plugs used: YS and OS F
Pump setting: 1/2 turn IN (rich) from flush
needle setting: 2 clicks shy (lean) of 2 turns
Static WOT RPM: 8400
Elevation: 5300 ft.
With respect to the needle setting, I do seem to have a funny "double peak", one at the above setting and another at about 2-3/4 turns out. However the richer setting is slightly less in RPM (8200) and feels too rich in flight (loads up during throttle up and leaves a lot of smoke trail)
I have tried to go leaner, but I get detonation and and some banging at the mid-range transition. It really doesn't like to run at anything less than what I have listed. I have heard of others at my altitude running much leaner than this (1 to 1.25 tuns on the needle).
I haven't messed much with the pump....I have run it flush and 1/2 turn IN from flush, where it seems to work a bit better (better transition from idle).
Any suggestions??
Thanks,
-Erik
P.S. Thanks for the comments Troy....I'll send you a PM soon.
#2
My Feedback: (13)
RE: Dingo Help Please!
30% HOLY CRAP WHAT ARE YOU DOING?ANYMORE NITRO AND THAT THING WILL GO BACK IN TIME. I'VE HAD MUCH MORE SUCCESS WITH MY 140DZ RUNNING POWERMASTER 20/20. OS TYPE F PLUGS.I FLY AT @3500 FT IN DRY DESERT AIR AND CHANGE A PLUG MAYBE ONCE A SEASON.I AM NO EXPERT ,BUT IV'E BEEN RUNNING MY 140 FOR 5 YEARS ?I JUST THINK THAT MUCH NITRO IS ASKING FOR PROBLEMS WITH THE 140.........GOOD LUCK
#3
Senior Member
RE: Dingo Help Please!
Dave,
actually the 30% nitro is better for the engines. The mixture settings need to be richer to get things right. If you just dump 30% into an engine setup for 20% it will be too lean on the mixture. So richen it up about 3/8 of a turn and its about right. At this richer setting the engine is running more fuel and as a result more oil. The oil is what helps with the cooling.
On 30% the engine will tend to run cooler overall, mixture settings become more broad and easier to set. These things make it easier on the engine and not harder on it.
SO this is why I run and recommend Cool Power 30% heli in all my engines. I have a 160 that has been in operation since 2003 and still going strong. Yes it has had new bearing a couple rings but its original on the piston, sleeve and other expensive parts. In fact its still running strong ina friends model right now.
Troy Newman
Team YS
P.S. I don't suggest going above 30% however I have run 35-40% more than a time or two and even some 50% in the warbird racers on the old 120's
actually the 30% nitro is better for the engines. The mixture settings need to be richer to get things right. If you just dump 30% into an engine setup for 20% it will be too lean on the mixture. So richen it up about 3/8 of a turn and its about right. At this richer setting the engine is running more fuel and as a result more oil. The oil is what helps with the cooling.
On 30% the engine will tend to run cooler overall, mixture settings become more broad and easier to set. These things make it easier on the engine and not harder on it.
SO this is why I run and recommend Cool Power 30% heli in all my engines. I have a 160 that has been in operation since 2003 and still going strong. Yes it has had new bearing a couple rings but its original on the piston, sleeve and other expensive parts. In fact its still running strong ina friends model right now.
Troy Newman
Team YS
P.S. I don't suggest going above 30% however I have run 35-40% more than a time or two and even some 50% in the warbird racers on the old 120's