joeyblaze

and thoes sprigs dont cause any binding, seems like a rough hack, but then again its such a small differnece, but are the alum dog bons even needed uless u going brushless, they seem vert beefy in stock form

phaythe

Works fine for me, no binding... The problem with the RC18 bones being too short doesn't originate on the carrier's output side, but rather on the wheel hubs themselves. As the suspension travels up and down (and when the front wheels turn) the distance to the hub's center increases, making the that 1mm difference between the bones show up quickly--the RC18 bones will just pop out of the hub! So by putting a spring into the carrier, it puts pressure onto the bone which pushes it into the hub. If anything, it would be an improvement over the stock bones anyways. I've noted that the stock front bones occasionally do pop out when the wheels are turned as far as they can go when driving on gravel or other rough terrain. Rears don't have the problem because the hubs don't turn...

But I would say it is worth upgrading from the plastic bones. It took nearly a month and about 10 hours of driving (actual behind the Tx time driving the truck), but my roommate finally broke one of the stock bones, it snapped off inside the hub... So the plastic bones are definitely decent, but if you have broken ones, may as well snag some alloy bones and never have to worry about them again...

joeyblaze

great responce bro.. thanks

Haulin Azz

rc18t have the springs in the diff carriers from the factory, i use springs out of mechanical pencils or outta a pen that clicks, lol

F-150_Nick

But if im replacing the rear diff with a rc18 diff then i dont need the springs? and im not really sure where you are talking about to put the springs...

phaythe

The springs go into the diff output shafts, where the dogbones go in. So the spring just ends up "behind" the dogbone... And even if you were to swap to RC18 diffs, RC18 uses those springs stock, so you would still need them.

Haulin Azz

i run the springs up front with my stock dog bones, the bones come out when i turn sharp

joeyblaze

i have no problems with my dog bones during sharp turns

phaythe

I happens, but rarely. I've had it happen once between two vehicles in two months... I've noted it happening on other people's vehicles from time to time as well. So it isn't a major problem, just an occasional gripe.

joeyblaze

hmph ill have to look out for it

F-150_Nick

I just ordered the RC18 diff. and the dogbones. Also i ordered the venom fireball motor

Wyseman76

Hey new to the RC Universe Forums but in my quest for Pro Pulse info and all i found myself here. So, I thought i'd share where i stand.

Well the first thing i did was paint that purple body and this is what it looks like after a few minor flips



I added the RS Aluminum Shocks and the Spur Gear and Pinion Kit. also the 1400 battery RS had.

Then headed off to my nearest RC hobby shop to see what i might find and for $15 out the door I took home the proline Hummer Body.
With the Body mounts extended to the max in the back and one from the max in the front and it sits fairly well but as mention somewhere in here yes when almost bottomed out the rear shocks do make contact with the wheel well but nothing to cry over.

Here is the current build





I have ordered the
Trinity On-Road Tires/Wheels
Aluminum Dog bones
and some other odds and ends.

Im holding out on a motor swap until i've damn near beat this one to death or i come across that must have deal.

joeyblaze

looks good... however the Trinity On-Road Tires/Wheels are much larger then stock and u might run into somemore rub issues

phaythe

Awwww, now you are doomed to break tie rods just like a real H2! :P

joeyblaze

lets keep them above the belt lol

tjarr001

wyseman did you paint the outside of your stock body cause i have tried paint thiner and rubbin alc. to get the stock paint off and neither of them worked.

Wyseman76

Yes, just paint it like you would a car. I hit is with some super fine sandpaper, primed, sanded, paint, paint, paint, sand, clearcoat, clearcoat, buff.

Then take it out for a spin and flip it to see your hard work get its first thrashing


By the way I canceled the Trinity On Road as my local Hobby guy is ordering me something else with a bit more room for my Hummy Body

Lapoot

1st of all, I'm a newbie. BE GENTLE.
A club has just started in my town with 6 propulse cars. It's done. Please don't tell me if you think that was a bad idea, cause' it's done. Capice? We had a fixed amount of money.
We have a great carpeted gym floor and want to run races weekly during the winter. I'm open to suggestions past this, as I recognize many of you are 'farther round' the curve' than I am.
I realize already that we'll need to upgrade to better shocks. I also realize we are gonna' need 20 more batteries. We are on a fixed budget. Any ideas about putting the packs together ourselves? The last info is that we'll be aiming at working with jr-sr high kids who will team up with a parent or to get in. Any ideas?

phaythe

Making packs is pretty darn easy, just takes a good bit of time. There is an article here on RCU explaining it, actually two articles if I remember right... You can get everything you need from www.cheapbatterypacks.com, but they also sell premade packs for a good price as well if you don't want to mess with it. You'll only save a couple bucks per battery pack. After doing the math, I figured out that I saved a little under two dollars per pack by making them myself vs. buying pre-made from CBP. So if you don't want to mess with it, you're really not saving a whole lot. Even if you literally did get 20 packs, you're only looking at marginal savings but losing many hours of your life making packs. They've also got a Club Affiliate Program that might be helpful, not sure of the details on that though. And since I note you're apparently from Washington if your info is correct, they're in Oregon, so you will get your order quick!

Being handy making packs yourself is a good skill to have though. I've now made some 10-cell AAA packs to use in my Tx's instead of burning through tons of AA's. So don't hesitate to at the very least pick up some of the supplies to have around. Just remember, "Shoe Goo" is your friend!

Edit:

And welcome to the forum, by the way! Lots of helpful folks around here. Make sure to read through the other (now extremely long) Pro-Pulse thread on here. LOTS of info already in there.

jalvarez

phaythe, you seem to know quite a bit would have any idea on the specs on the highn performance kit motor for p-p or if its a waste of time.

phaythe

I've been attempting to contact someone at Megatech who may be able to give me some answers as far as specs go. But as of right now, can't tell you anything more than what I know: The price may be a bit high, but you do get the extra 14T pinion gear with it, and the motor is definitely faster. Claims of 25MPH aren't too unfounded but I haven't yet confirmed this either. But the extra boost from the gearing could make it possible. I know I am enjoying mine. I plan on winding my own at some point.

joeyblaze

the high performane motor def rocks, it is pricey but def fast,

i think iwann get a mamba 6800 package, but not sure if that will work good with the PP, what do you guys think will it have enough power, i know the mamba motors are to small for an MQ.will the mamba fit the stock pinion and motor mount

tjarr001

i wonder what is faster, the high performace motor or the twin motor upgrade

Silentbob343

Well, the twin motor will give you better acceleration and torque, but the top speed doesn't increase just because you add another motor. The twin motor might be as fast or faster than the HP motor because the motors are different from stock.

Look at it this way if you put two stock motors in your PP the top speed would be the same, assuming equal gearing of coures, then if you had one stock motor. Of course you also have to consider etra weight from second motor and increased power draw. I would stick with the single motor unless you really need more torque, but if you want a higher top speed go brushless or better motor.

hdking46

i have twin motor setup and it is fast hard to control. also because of the torq i tore up rear diff (cheap made also) now replacing with MIP rt18 diff think that will be better.. with twins and 15t gear it will flip over when you have good traction. replace stock shocks with golden horizon threaded and that made a big difference i have had this for a month well this is the second one, first esc went bad, and i have a mini quake that i think is better quaility, PP seems to break alot and radio is not as good but with twins it is fun drive.... just my 2 cents