RC18 first run problem
01-01-2007, 02:06 AM
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RC18 first run problem
I have the RC18T team kit with an AON motor, quark esc and 1/10 touring card wheels/tires and have just charged up my battery and gone to run it for the first time. When I turned on the esc and checked steering and throttle it seemed to sound and run smoothly but when I put it on the ground to give it a run it sounds like its just spinning - it moves but slowly but the motor sounds like its working. I'm only newish to RC so I dont want to pull it apart without asking a few questions first. I did put the front of the car against a wall and slowly move the throttle and noticed the pinion and spur gear spinning but wheels not moving - any ideas before I operate [X(]
01-01-2007, 02:21 AM
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RE: RC18 first run problem
ORIGINAL: KRO
Sounds like the pinion gear on the motor is loose , are you SURE the spur gear is turning ?
Sounds like the pinion gear on the motor is loose , are you SURE the spur gear is turning ?
01-01-2007, 02:38 AM
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RE: RC18 first run problem
The diffs are too loose.
That could be , but you said this was the cars first run ? Did you disassemble the diffs ? You can tighten them on the car , just remove the dogbone on the side with the screw .
01-01-2007, 02:47 AM
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RE: RC18 first run problem
ORIGINAL: KRO
That could be , but you said this was the cars first run ? Did you disassemble the diffs ? You can tighten them on the car , just remove the dogbone on the side with the screw .
The diffs are too loose.
That could be , but you said this was the cars first run ? Did you disassemble the diffs ? You can tighten them on the car , just remove the dogbone on the side with the screw .
01-01-2007, 06:56 AM
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RE: RC18 first run problem
jaymac, I'm not sure if the AON motor is brushless, but I'm assuming it is seeing you have a Quark ESC. If that's the case, CompetitionX.com recommends tightening the diff all the way down. If it's NOT brushless, tighten it all the way down then back off 1/4 turn. The factory RTR setting is 1/2 turn, which in my own opinion offers too much slip.
Without taking too much apart (2 tie rod/turnbuckle ball studs, 1 in each gearbox top plate), you can easily tighten the diffs while still in place. Remove the left rear (battery side) dogbone and the right front (servo side) dogbones to access the adjusting screw. Seeing you put the kit together yourself, I'm sure you know what to remove to get the wheel to flop down and the dogbone to pop out.
Without taking too much apart (2 tie rod/turnbuckle ball studs, 1 in each gearbox top plate), you can easily tighten the diffs while still in place. Remove the left rear (battery side) dogbone and the right front (servo side) dogbones to access the adjusting screw. Seeing you put the kit together yourself, I'm sure you know what to remove to get the wheel to flop down and the dogbone to pop out.
01-01-2007, 11:54 AM
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RE: RC18 first run problem
ORIGINAL: abjones413
jaymac, I'm not sure if the AON motor is brushless, but I'm assuming it is seeing you have a Quark ESC. If that's the case, CompetitionX.com recommends tightening the diff all the way down. If it's NOT brushless, tighten it all the way down then back off 1/4 turn. The factory RTR setting is 1/2 turn, which in my own opinion offers too much slip.
Without taking too much apart (2 tie rod/turnbuckle ball studs, 1 in each gearbox top plate), you can easily tighten the diffs while still in place. Remove the left rear (battery side) dogbone and the right front (servo side) dogbones to access the adjusting screw. Seeing you put the kit together yourself, I'm sure you know what to remove to get the wheel to flop down and the dogbone to pop out.
jaymac, I'm not sure if the AON motor is brushless, but I'm assuming it is seeing you have a Quark ESC. If that's the case, CompetitionX.com recommends tightening the diff all the way down. If it's NOT brushless, tighten it all the way down then back off 1/4 turn. The factory RTR setting is 1/2 turn, which in my own opinion offers too much slip.
Without taking too much apart (2 tie rod/turnbuckle ball studs, 1 in each gearbox top plate), you can easily tighten the diffs while still in place. Remove the left rear (battery side) dogbone and the right front (servo side) dogbones to access the adjusting screw. Seeing you put the kit together yourself, I'm sure you know what to remove to get the wheel to flop down and the dogbone to pop out.
have to agree 100%
01-01-2007, 05:36 PM
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RE: RC18 first run problem
ORIGINAL: irlsh
have to agree 100%
ORIGINAL: abjones413
jaymac, I'm not sure if the AON motor is brushless, but I'm assuming it is seeing you have a Quark ESC. If that's the case, CompetitionX.com recommends tightening the diff all the way down. If it's NOT brushless, tighten it all the way down then back off 1/4 turn. The factory RTR setting is 1/2 turn, which in my own opinion offers too much slip.
Without taking too much apart (2 tie rod/turnbuckle ball studs, 1 in each gearbox top plate), you can easily tighten the diffs while still in place. Remove the left rear (battery side) dogbone and the right front (servo side) dogbones to access the adjusting screw. Seeing you put the kit together yourself, I'm sure you know what to remove to get the wheel to flop down and the dogbone to pop out.
jaymac, I'm not sure if the AON motor is brushless, but I'm assuming it is seeing you have a Quark ESC. If that's the case, CompetitionX.com recommends tightening the diff all the way down. If it's NOT brushless, tighten it all the way down then back off 1/4 turn. The factory RTR setting is 1/2 turn, which in my own opinion offers too much slip.
Without taking too much apart (2 tie rod/turnbuckle ball studs, 1 in each gearbox top plate), you can easily tighten the diffs while still in place. Remove the left rear (battery side) dogbone and the right front (servo side) dogbones to access the adjusting screw. Seeing you put the kit together yourself, I'm sure you know what to remove to get the wheel to flop down and the dogbone to pop out.
have to agree 100%
01-01-2007, 06:27 PM
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RE: RC18 first run problem
those wheels could also be putting too much strain on it. They look like 2.2 wheels and tires. I have those exact wheels but i was told not to bother getting tires for them because it would be too hard on the truck. If they end up working well for you let me know so i can go forth with running them. Also what gearing and tires are those? Thanks- Bryan
01-01-2007, 07:08 PM
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RE: RC18 first run problem
ORIGINAL: jeep2003
those wheels could also be putting too much strain on it. They look like 2.2 wheels and tires. I have those exact wheels but i was told not to bother getting tires for them because it would be too hard on the truck. If they end up working well for you let me know so i can go forth with running them. Also what gearing and tires are those? Thanks- Bryan
those wheels could also be putting too much strain on it. They look like 2.2 wheels and tires. I have those exact wheels but i was told not to bother getting tires for them because it would be too hard on the truck. If they end up working well for you let me know so i can go forth with running them. Also what gearing and tires are those? Thanks- Bryan
01-01-2007, 09:59 PM
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RE: RC18 first run problem
I bet you it is the diffs. I had the same problem before. What I always do is take the diff out and pop off the gold (in your case blue) rings around the diffs. then stick the 1.5mm hex key into the long end and put a flat head screw driver threw the other end so it doesn't allow it to turn. Then I tighten it all of the way down, and then back off 1/8th of a turn. Works really good. And every now and then I would check the diffs by put the truck on the floor and holding the back of the truck. The gas it some and see if all of the wheels spin the same speed. If they do then I know thats it's still tight enough.
01-01-2007, 10:07 PM
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RE: RC18 first run problem
ORIGINAL: rc18t145
I bet you it is the diffs. I had the same problem before. What I always do is take the diff out and pop off the gold (in your case blue) rings around the diffs. then stick the 1.5mm hex key into the long end and put a flat head screw driver threw the other end so it doesn't allow it to turn. Then I tighten it all of the way down, and then back off 1/8th of a turn. Works really good. And every now and then I would check the diffs by put the truck on the floor and holding the back of the truck. The gas it some and see if all of the wheels spin the same speed. If they do then I know thats it's still tight enough.
I bet you it is the diffs. I had the same problem before. What I always do is take the diff out and pop off the gold (in your case blue) rings around the diffs. then stick the 1.5mm hex key into the long end and put a flat head screw driver threw the other end so it doesn't allow it to turn. Then I tighten it all of the way down, and then back off 1/8th of a turn. Works really good. And every now and then I would check the diffs by put the truck on the floor and holding the back of the truck. The gas it some and see if all of the wheels spin the same speed. If they do then I know thats it's still tight enough.
01-01-2007, 10:14 PM
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RE: RC18 first run problem
You need to expose both ends. Because otherwise you will have a hard time stopping the otherside from spinning, and the only way to do that is to grab the dogbone (if you haven't taken off the otherside) which I am sure you don't want to scratch the aluminum. But I like to take off the top plate because it's much easier. You don't have to hold the sides with your finger, just stick a small flathead screwdriver all of the way through the short side, and the hex key into the otherside.
01-02-2007, 12:19 AM
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RE: RC18 first run problem
Hey rc18, he doesn't HAVE to take the diff out, even though it's pretty simple work. Just hold the opposite wheel while tightening the hex screw. The dogbone won't allow it to spin...
I know what you're talking about though, and I did that myself after I messed mine up from tightening too much that time and stripped the short outdrive threads. Remember that? I took the outdrive sleeves off and put one of the small hex wrenches horizontally through the dogbone slots and tightened the hex screw. Jaymac, please don't tighten too much. Stop when you think it's tight enough, because it probably is. The threads are plastic and will strip out. If you screw it up, I have a thread somewhere I'll link you to to repair it easily, OR you could just order some MIP Super Diffs, titanium diffs or aluminum diffs. I actually heard any of those metal diffs are a great idea if you run brushless, which you are...
I know what you're talking about though, and I did that myself after I messed mine up from tightening too much that time and stripped the short outdrive threads. Remember that? I took the outdrive sleeves off and put one of the small hex wrenches horizontally through the dogbone slots and tightened the hex screw. Jaymac, please don't tighten too much. Stop when you think it's tight enough, because it probably is. The threads are plastic and will strip out. If you screw it up, I have a thread somewhere I'll link you to to repair it easily, OR you could just order some MIP Super Diffs, titanium diffs or aluminum diffs. I actually heard any of those metal diffs are a great idea if you run brushless, which you are...
01-02-2007, 12:34 AM
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RE: RC18 first run problem
ORIGINAL: abjones413
Hey rc18, he doesn't HAVE to take the diff out, even though it's pretty simple work. Just hold the opposite wheel while tightening the hex screw. The dogbone won't allow it to spin...
I know what you're talking about though, and I did that myself after I messed mine up from tightening too much that time and stripped the short outdrive threads. Remember that? I took the outdrive sleeves off and put one of the small hex wrenches horizontally through the dogbone slots and tightened the hex screw. Jaymac, please don't tighten too much. Stop when you think it's tight enough, because it probably is. The threads are plastic and will strip out. If you screw it up, I have a thread somewhere I'll link you to to repair it easily, OR you could just order some MIP Super Diffs, titanium diffs or aluminum diffs. I actually heard any of those metal diffs are a great idea if you run brushless, which you are...
Hey rc18, he doesn't HAVE to take the diff out, even though it's pretty simple work. Just hold the opposite wheel while tightening the hex screw. The dogbone won't allow it to spin...
I know what you're talking about though, and I did that myself after I messed mine up from tightening too much that time and stripped the short outdrive threads. Remember that? I took the outdrive sleeves off and put one of the small hex wrenches horizontally through the dogbone slots and tightened the hex screw. Jaymac, please don't tighten too much. Stop when you think it's tight enough, because it probably is. The threads are plastic and will strip out. If you screw it up, I have a thread somewhere I'll link you to to repair it easily, OR you could just order some MIP Super Diffs, titanium diffs or aluminum diffs. I actually heard any of those metal diffs are a great idea if you run brushless, which you are...
]
01-02-2007, 12:46 AM
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RE: RC18 first run problem
Hey rc18, did you see my posts with the hop-ups installed? I put a few easy upgrades on... - http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_5186092/tm.htm
01-02-2007, 01:04 AM
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RE: RC18 first run problem
Yep I did, Are those actually 2.2's?
Heres a size comparison
Smallest to largest
micro-t tire
mini-t tire
rc18mt tire
tc tire
rusty tire
t-maxx tire
Heres a size comparison
Smallest to largest
micro-t tire
mini-t tire
rc18mt tire
tc tire
rusty tire
t-maxx tire
01-02-2007, 06:15 AM
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RE: RC18 first run problem
Yep I did, Are those actually 2.2's?
The tires themselves are actually listed for the Super Nitro RS4. They are also wider than the standard 26mm t/c tires, which is what I was going for. The specs on Tower do list them as 2.2" tires, so that pretty much makes the above wheels 2.2" - http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXZK77&P=M
I left the included foams out to lessen some stiffness. Seeing they're such lo-pro tires they have barely any sidewall flex, so now the suspension will be working overtime (like me) to compensate for the lack of the squishy stock setup. I may need to put some lighter oil in there...
01-02-2007, 03:35 PM
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RE: RC18 first run problem
Oh, I may need to get those. Tell me how it works. It looks like you could almost drive the thing upside down with the body off.[>:]
01-02-2007, 04:46 PM
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RE: RC18 first run problem
ORIGINAL: abjones413
Hey rc18, he doesn't HAVE to take the diff out, even though it's pretty simple work. Just hold the opposite wheel while tightening the hex screw. The dogbone won't allow it to spin...
I know what you're talking about though, and I did that myself after I messed mine up from tightening too much that time and stripped the short outdrive threads. Remember that? I took the outdrive sleeves off and put one of the small hex wrenches horizontally through the dogbone slots and tightened the hex screw. Jaymac, please don't tighten too much. Stop when you think it's tight enough, because it probably is. The threads are plastic and will strip out. If you screw it up, I have a thread somewhere I'll link you to to repair it easily, OR you could just order some MIP Super Diffs, titanium diffs or aluminum diffs. I actually heard any of those metal diffs are a great idea if you run brushless, which you are...
Hey rc18, he doesn't HAVE to take the diff out, even though it's pretty simple work. Just hold the opposite wheel while tightening the hex screw. The dogbone won't allow it to spin...
I know what you're talking about though, and I did that myself after I messed mine up from tightening too much that time and stripped the short outdrive threads. Remember that? I took the outdrive sleeves off and put one of the small hex wrenches horizontally through the dogbone slots and tightened the hex screw. Jaymac, please don't tighten too much. Stop when you think it's tight enough, because it probably is. The threads are plastic and will strip out. If you screw it up, I have a thread somewhere I'll link you to to repair it easily, OR you could just order some MIP Super Diffs, titanium diffs or aluminum diffs. I actually heard any of those metal diffs are a great idea if you run brushless, which you are...
01-02-2007, 05:36 PM
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RE: RC18 first run problem
ORIGINAL: rc18t145
Oh, I may need to get those. Tell me how it works. It looks like you could almost drive the thing upside down with the body off.[>:]
Oh, I may need to get those. Tell me how it works. It looks like you could almost drive the thing upside down with the body off.[>:]
jaymac - yes, that will make a huge diff erence. Get it? DIFF erence... Anyway, when I was messing around with mine, fine tuning the diffs, it was very touchy. It took a little time to get it just right. Even less than 1/8 of a turn is noticeable!
01-02-2007, 05:41 PM
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RE: RC18 first run problem
ORIGINAL: abjones413
rc - Works AWESOME! Totally awesome. No strain on the stock motor with stock gearing. Handles great. Drives over almost anything.
jaymac - yes, that will make a huge diff erence. Get it? DIFF erence... Anyway, when I was messing around with mine, fine tuning the diffs, it was very touchy. It took a little time to get it just right. Even less than 1/8 of a turn is noticeable!
ORIGINAL: rc18t145
Oh, I may need to get those. Tell me how it works. It looks like you could almost drive the thing upside down with the body off.[>:]
Oh, I may need to get those. Tell me how it works. It looks like you could almost drive the thing upside down with the body off.[>:]
jaymac - yes, that will make a huge diff erence. Get it? DIFF erence... Anyway, when I was messing around with mine, fine tuning the diffs, it was very touchy. It took a little time to get it just right. Even less than 1/8 of a turn is noticeable!
01-02-2007, 05:57 PM
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RE: RC18 first run problem
It will strip the plastic threads in the opposite side. The screw will just spin and spin and spin and the diff will be at it's loosest setting. You will then have to find a 2mm nut and thread the screw into it. It's not fun...
01-02-2007, 05:59 PM
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RE: RC18 first run problem
ORIGINAL: abjones413
It will strip the plastic threads in the opposite side. The screw will just spin and spin and spin and the diff will be at it's loosest setting. Your car will barely move, only being driven by one diff. You will then have to find a 2mm nut and thread the screw into it. It's not fun...
It will strip the plastic threads in the opposite side. The screw will just spin and spin and spin and the diff will be at it's loosest setting. Your car will barely move, only being driven by one diff. You will then have to find a 2mm nut and thread the screw into it. It's not fun...
