walkingcarpet900

hey so im almost done puttin my super detta together (just need a receiver and servo)
and i was thinking if i needed anything to be stronger for the brushless
the motor is ammo3900(recommened my jae) and the batts are the dtx1200 ones
so far i have .... aluminum ball diffs for both with alum outdrives, mq heat sink

anything else i would need like any of that aluminum steel graphite stuff

i plan on just bashing but maybe a race now and then
want it to be strong.... very strong

and how bout all that graphite stuff... does it make a difference between it and the stock plastic(chassis,
brace, driveshaft etc) i heard that they snap easily but i dont know much about the different materials

for gearing i plan on using 19/41

also for the ball diffs (just ordered) (first time for me to use ball diffs)
what am i supoosed 2 do to maintain it ..?
rebuild when?
do they take diff fluids and stuff like that or no

thanks

rschoi_75

Ball diffs are a good start. Get a full set of steel cvd's to match.

You've got a ST right? If so, get a pair of alloy front upper arms and you're set. For the buggy, all you need are alloy front knuckles.
If you're going to race, tuning options are good... i.e. turnbuckles, adjustable rods for your upper arms (front/rear), springs, and sway bars.

The graphite stuff doesn't really make a difference. You want to stick with the stock alum or plastic parts for strength. Graphite is for show. The weight you will save is inconsequential. The only graphite part that I think is needed is the servo hold-down.

To maintain your ball diffs you just need to keep them as clean as possible, slightly oiled, and keep the diff balls fresh. They do not take diff fluid like sealed gear diffs. they work a different way. The diffing action is caused by tiny steel balls which are arranged in a ring shaped pattern within the main gear. They are pressed into place by thrust plates on either side, which are held together by the outdrives and a screw. The rotation of the balls causes the diffing action. The diff is adjusted by tightening/loosening the screw. Tightening will reduce the diffing action, thus making it limited slip, and transferring more power to the wheels. Loosening has the opposite effect. You want to be careful not to over tighten the diffs or you run the risk of cracking the balls or stripping out the screw hole. Its best to tighten until you feel some pressure, then back 1/4 turn.

When to rebuild your diffs is more subjective. For racing, you want a fresh re-build almost every time, but its up to you (indoor onroad needs less maintainence than outdoor offroad). For bashing, I just do it when the diffs feel very rough. No sense in keeping them perfectly smooth, if you're just going to beat your truck like I do.

gnarkill1988

no they dont use diff fluids. for maintinace, just take apart and clean every 5-6 races. keep a diff rebuild kit on hand incase it fails. but you dont need to change anything unless there is a failure. just take the diffs apart and clean them out, and re grease. as far as graffite stuff.... yes it is stronger, the axels in the dettta are weak, change thoes for sure, the diffs and out drives for sure are a weak point. changes thoes. changes the shock towers and mounts. change the steering componants and such. other than that change it as it brakes. the steel,aluminum titainum and graphite stuff is stronger but not a must. its jsut kinda fun ya know? with your brushless....change out all drive components with upgrades (drive line out drives,diffs ext mentioned above) also....youll want a lipo in the future, the 1200 dura trax are ok for now...but to trules unleash the brushless.....youll need a lipo. thunderpower has a good 7.2v 1500mah that fits the detta perfect, its advertised as a airplane battrey but they are all the same. and the price is only $36 thats almost as cheap as the 1200 duratrax.

walkingcarpet900

k so far i got.... (now)
1. ammo 28-35 3900
2 mini tazer esc
3 sway bars
4 alum shocks
5 alum ball diffs
6 graphite steering hold down
7 mini quake monster tires on detta wheels


ok and my next ones will probly be the steel or alum cvds(which ones)(from atomic or dtx)


thanks for fast response

walkingcarpet900

hi just to clear somethings up
i have the st and it has the lock nuts for the shocks
thanks anyways
ok so im gunna save up for some quality lipo stuff
maybe a decent charger (pretty cheap) (please suggest)
and maybe 1 or 2 batts (2 cell or 3 cell) ???? (i want it to be fast but controlable) (cheap also , plz recomend)

walkingcarpet900

k i was thinking 2 of these
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXMYP6&P=7

will this work
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXPZT6&P=7


those look great
how fast would i be expecting from those and the ammo 3900
if those would work i prolly get them in about 1-2weks

rschoi_75

Steel cvd's all the way. dtx are best, but atomic is much cheaper, and are ok.

The lipo you linked is too small. it provides only 16amps contant. Your motor will want more. Try this:
http://www.2dogrc.com/ecommerce/os/c...nt-p-2168.html
It will give you 20amps constant, longer run times, and is a dollar cheaper.
you will need a balancer too (from their site)

Ther charger you linked is ok, but it only charges at a single setting: .75amps. Here is an alternative, which is much more adjustable and can charge some 1/10th scale packs too.
http://www.b-p-p.com/proddetail.php?prod=d_%23A2500

walkingcarpet900

the atomic aluminum cvds or the reinforced ones
thanks

rschoi_75

steel...reinforced

Mz

uhhh, for a basher, don't get ball diffs.

ludeman

Wow Mz I have read a lot of your posts and respect you but, whaaa......are kidding me? I think a basher would need them more! Thats why I built mine with so much aluminum, ya know to ruggedize it! Now if only we could get steel spur's, diff rings and inputs! I would be one happy cammper/basher

rschoi_75

That's not entirely true... graphite/C.F. is not stronger than the alloy parts on this truck, or even some of the plastic parts. The advantages of c.f. that its stiffer than plastic, without the weight of metal. It helps in other r/c's, but honestly.... in a little detta, its just for show. The stock alloy shock towers, steering components are light enough, and MUCH stronger than the c.f. equivalents. Like I said, the only c.f. part you really need is the servo hold-down.

yo ludeman, have you tried the delrin gears from thetoyz.com?
I think they are either GPM or Atomic products. Give it a shot. It may fix your problem. I'm not a fan of steel spurs and gears on mini's. No one ever makes hardened gears, so all the metal stuff is usually weak alum or non-hardened steel. This is a no-no, and will cause a lot of headaches for the people who don't know the difference.

ludeman

Yeah I tried delrin and not a big fan. I agree about the hardend steel but I sure would be happy to get [link=http://www.thetoyz.com/cart/thetoyz_details.lasso?id=9388&cat_name=RC18T]this[/link] for my Detta! Guess Its time to build out my RC18!

jaejw1

thats funny to see... cause gpm is now making parts for the vendetta..