jaejw1

use the mesh plate...

Metallover

Yes, be sure to do that. I didn't listen a long time ago and I broke a mount. I am now using the mesh plate and a washer because breaking a mount sucks.

arisarts

Guys here is my colling motor FAN mod on my ST.

I am using now the CORRECT METRIC 19T Gear as jaejw1 suggested with AMMO and it is running VERY smooth
the only problem is the plastic differential gears .
One run and 3 tooth broken of the front with simple driving (without crashes ) .

I am waiting the ball diffs and the Steel Gears for them and hopefully i will enjoy this little beast

Beomagi

Is that a 1u server fan?

Depending on the torque you're getting, you may also want to upgrade to metal cvd's. Using the permax motor and 7 cells, I wrecked 2 sets of plastic cvds.

studcow00

is there a specific one to use, or should i try to hallow out a good portion and adjust it manually? (eg phone book paper)

studcow00

Im using a 15 tooth pinion and a stock spur gear =[ I want to get a larger spur gear to lower the ratio, so i can use all of my 5900 Kv's but it seems no matter what size spur gear i buy i will have to go without the mesh plate =[

jaejw1

http://s185.photobucket.com/albums/x...RatioChart.jpg

what gearing are you going for. also remember.. just because the kvs are higher doesnt mean you can use a larger pinion.... the 3900kv ammo can not be geared the same as the 5100kv ammo...

studcow00

what im saying is i want to gear the transmission low eanough so that i can feasibly control the detta at full throttle, (or just under full throttle) I had an xray M18T with a mamba 8000 and lithium, and i know i should have gotten a smaller pinion, it seemed to be a challange to see how fast the chassis could go, because there was almost no limit to what the motor would do, and i want to get some sick power, but have it geared low eanough so that i can controll it without setting my throttle to 40% on my remote

jaejw1

13/45 should be good enough... have you tried that... and it will allow you to use the mesh plate.. wont be as fast but it will be more controllable

studcow00

I think I will grab the 45 spur and 13 pinion, when i go to get some deans male plugs and figure out how to get the ammo and my mamba esc to use the same connectors (the mambas are too small in diamater to connect the 3 wires to the ammo) also i saw that duratrax sells replacement nylon drive shafts with locking nuts instead of screws holding on the wheels, woud i be able to buy the set and use the threaded locking nut assembly on my stock ones, and keep the new ones as replacements?

jaejw1

nylon drive shafts... huh.... you have a link???

hpibasher2

I know the Vendetta uses the not so norm 2mm motor shaft. (I think it's 2mm). Anyways, are there any pinions out there with the same pitch as the detta spur but I can use on my Wraith 7k? It has the same shaft size as a Mamba if that helps. Also, what's needed to bullett proof the drive train? I'm assuming CVD's becasue the stock dogbones are plastic, and specific brands, and anything else... diff's etc.?

jaejw1

read my motor review in my signature below.... the wraith7k is listed

Metallover

All the detta needs for upgrades are steel cvds, preferably the duratrax ones. You will also need to shim your diffs in and out or get ball diffs if you are going brushless. Everything else is ready to go. If you are racing you might want to do the shock mod, and if you want to upgrade it further then it is upper front arms I think that can go aluminum.

studcow00

Which order do the red white and black wires plug into the red black and yellow wires on the motor, for some reason the only time my motor responds is when i have the wires miss matched and even then the mamba light either blink red or just twich the motor really fast, i checked the gear mesh and its perfect w/ the plate 13 tooth pinion, and red locktighted in, could it be the new motor or the esc? also will it hurt my motor if i bend the wires in the back of it?

also check these out http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXTZP4&P=7

jaejw1

notsure if u read my motor review,,, but if u didnt and ur planning on running the buggy payveryclose attentionto motor temp running at 13/45,,,,, I burntmine up from running at 13/49.... just becareful... the motor is awesome but doesnt have the power needed

studcow00

im running the 5100 and the car dosent move it just kinda cogs or something, what order do you have the wires connected with the mamba esc? and does the 5100 need power that the mamba cant power?

jaejw1

play around wit the wires... and what gearing do you have it at.. and what esc,, what batteries..

studcow00

mamba 25 to ammo 51oo Ib 1500 6 cell 13/stock spur

Snipin_Willy

Haven't posted in a while. All my r/c's are shelved for the winter, seems there is nothing going on in my area. Can't decide what to do next.

Studcow; I'd say play with the mamba 25 settings if you have the usb link for it.

jaejw1

bingo...

studcow00

I do not have the usb link, but i do speak fluent esc, what settings do i need to set? oh i must drive my rc!

studcow00

i manually set up the 5 settings on my esc, and changed the starting power to mediun, then high, and it will jerk the weels forward abit and after a quick pause jerl them forward a bit again, it moves like a mm a second, and seems quite violent, and when i turn off the power, the car will still do a shaking action (the motor will blip) but it does not crawl forward it just kind of rocks in place... im quite confused, as an added bonus the esc gets warm quickly

jaejw1

something electric might be wrong. either the rcvr or the esc... is the motor brand new... how old is the esc.. how old is the rcvr

studcow00

its that the esc cannot power the 5100 the draw and current are higher than the 3900