sunco1

The problem is this.. the car takes FOREVER to get to full speed. Electrics are supposed to be instant speed.. this happened with an old vr3 and stock esc.

And now that i have a futaba 230cr esc and a new vr3 its still doing it. im using the 1600 minh battery on it. At first the new speed control made a huge differnce but now im back to this.

And the car is insanely fast in reverse.. i have no idea why. its smoother to. if you can tell me why thats doing that it would would be great! Watch both videos. ill do some further explaining if nessecary..

[link=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ja5RDoHry2Q&feature=channel]Video 1[/link]
[link=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=omlR7PQYrDs&feature=channel]Video 2[/link] (sorry for the bad drving.. i had to use 1 hand to control it)

james#17

Sounds like the gear mesh is wayyy too tight. Did you bind the speed controller to the transmitter? Bet that is your problems. Could also be.
Wheel nuts too tight.
bearings bad.
debris in the axles
dirty comm on the motor

www.slashracer.com

walkingcarpet900

Gear mesh sounds tight. Maybe rewire your motor plugs in the other way and on your transmitter reverse the throttle so that your reverse now would be your normal forward. I remember that happened to my old vendetta st. It would accelerate alot faster in reverse so I just rewired the motor and reversed the throttle on my transmitter and it got better.

sunco1

how do i bind the speed controller to the trans? i didnt read anything about that in the instructions it came with.. and ill check the gear mesh. and while im at it. Got any tips to keep my antenna tube in? it drives me absolutely crazy

sunco1

i did that. and that didnt seem to work..

calvino

get some motor spray or denatured alcohol and run that though the motor while it runs, cleans it out. Sounds to me if it is faster in reverse that the ESC maybe set wrong?

sunco1

ok well i fixed the problem with that.

and yesterday i was using it in my yard and about 5-7 minutes in the car just stopped. And i smelled like battery acid (like when you short circuit a battery and it smells rank) so i took the body off and smoke was coming from the motor. I let it cool and now it like doesnt move..

why are these 380 motors so crappy?!? are there some other decent 380 sized motor that are brushed?

rschoi_75

If you're burning up your motor after only 5 minutes of running, it sounds like you need to let up on that lead finger of yours or switch up your gearing...

As for the motor.... there aren't that many choices... You can try dropping down to the Red label duratrax 380 motor. Its the stock motor for the buggy and is slightly slower, but will last longer.

sunco1

[link=http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXVDV1&P=7]Click[/link]

How about that motor? i just came across it on tower.

and im using the stock pinion and spur. Should i move up a tooth or so on the pinion?

forrest225

I think that would be to slow. Its made for a rock crawler not a racing buggy.

ftt4maniac

You do know that the red and green duratrax motors are timeable. Looks to me like the motor was in reverse timing which would seriously overheat the motor. To time them you only need to put some needle nose plyers into the slots on endbell and turn it i believe counter clockwise. Do it in little increments and test between, when you find the ultimate timing just leave it there.

sunco1

yeah well the motors pretty much toast now.. it barely moves..

Snipin_Willy

Sounds like it's time for an upgrade. Might I suggest a Castle Sidewinder and Great Planes Ammo 28-35-3900 motor