Andrew

And a Merry Christmas to you, too!

I have done the same thing with a Mini Mambo I wrote it off to being old and a little soft in the head. Sorry it happened to you, but glad I'm not the only one to have done it. I always fall back on the idea that a little covering can hide a host of ills.

gene6029

Another thing to watch out for on the areas where the wing & stab are sheeted is that the ribs under the sheeting are cut smaller to account for the wood sheeting. So if your cutting your own ribs take that into consideration....Happy Holidays.....Gene

axgrndr

I just started one of these. Building it for the 10yr old as a trainer. What kind of laser cutter are you using? That's gotta be handy.. not to mention faster. I was also wondering what type of radio/ servosyou were looking at using? I've been out of the loop for about 15yrs and having a hard time decifering all the new electronic gadgets out there. Was hoping someone could give a recommendation for a suitable 4channel system with light weight and range for this model. Nice work on your build. Hoping mine goes half as nice.

Jim_Purcha

My Feedback: (8)

www.parkflyerplastics.comhas canopy for this model.

Jim

Jaspur_x

My Feedback: (1)

Hobby king has a decent 4ch 2.4G system,their micro servos are decent I hear too(dirt cheap) There is a thread here (or over atRCG)I think about servos for those of us out of the new age loop, as I am;trying to catch up myself.

gene6029

Thanks for the info on the canopys, Jim! Reasonably priced too.....Gene

Jim_Purcha

My Feedback: (8)

No problemGene, I have a couple of this canopies at home. I've been wanting to build a Falcon Jr. since I saw the GP Foam model at the hobby shop. Ithink GP missed the target by making this a foam arf @ $65.00 (no electrics). I would have bought one in a heart beat if it was a balsa arf model of the original kit.

Jim

Rubbernecker

My Feedback: (22)

I have a Full Spectrum and yes it is very handy. Probably a Berg 4 channel, 2 hitec 81's, 400 nickel metal battery. I still fly 72 mhz. Have too much gear and now that most everyone is using 2.4, I don't have to wait for a channel. I have already seen the canopy's at parkflyerplastics, but I cannot get them to return an e-mail. Have sent 2 as well as talked with them on the phone once?????? Don't have a pay-pal account and wanted to know how much $ to send. Bout ready to give up, figure won't spend but so much effort trying to get someone to take my money. Hope to start doping tonight. Have been out of town for Christmas. Send me a pm if you are interested in getting some of the parts (ribs etc) or maybe a short kit.

John

axgrndr

Thanks for the info on the radio gear. Going to check it out. Still running 72 as well. Have a 5ch futaba still new in the box from yrs ago.. but rx and servos are too big for this one. As for the canopy,I gotthe replacment one for the ep falcon. It's bout 3/4" too long vs. blue print, but planning to trim it to fit. Shouldn't be an issue. Plus it's clear instead of tinted, so the search for a scaled snoopy figure decked out in flying googles is on. Thinking should be a good time to hunt for one as christmas ornaments etc. will be on sale. Appreciate the offer on the ribs/short kit. might take you up on that for a future project. But for now, am laid up after knee surgery so needing something to do/ pass time at present. lol. I actually doenjoy the whittling part of the hobby.. when i get the timeand am still pretty handy with #11 blade. I'm thinking of doing a ghl down the line and it would be one i'd want done clean and quick on build. But that's after i get some of the rust off the flying skills. - Ron

RickP

My Feedback: (2)

John,
No biggie - all par for the course. You could cover it first, then glue the stab on. Just leave a 1/4" or so of overlap of the convering on the stab and where it meets with the saddle.
RP

skaliwag

My Feedback: (1)

These canopies from Sig come pretty close..

http://sigmfg.com/cgi-bin/dpsmart.ex...FV5.html?E+Sig

Part # SIGWC805

Rubbernecker

My Feedback: (22)

Finally some more pictures since it's not much to look at when it is just clear dope. Covered the wing tonight with Polyspan. First time using and it goes on very easy. But Gee, if anyone covers slower than I do, I feel for them. 3 hours on a 36 inch wing. And it wasn't the Polyspan, it was me. Could have covered it in half the time with monokote and to think I still have to dope and paint............. I like the dope process. Looks like the weave is alot tighter so it shouldn't need as much dope as silk does to seal. Even the tips turned out good. I was cautioned that it doesn't like sharp edges, but I took my time (obviously) and didn't have any problem. You have to work it more than silk or silkspan, but that wasn't really a problem. Hopefully tomorrow night I can do the fuse. I am now going to do the built up stab in Polyspan and the solid fuse in silkspan. I want to get everything mounted and checked for warps before I seal the wing. I also ordered the canopy today so I will need it before I can paint.

John

Andrew

John -
I've read several articles on polyspan, but have never used it. Would you be willing to discuss your technique for applying and filling polyspan. The articles stated that it has a glossy side and flat side - are these easy to identify? How do you intend to finish out the plane, colored trim?

andrew

Rubbernecker

My Feedback: (22)

Sure. I will explain what I did and what I plan on doing. I will finish it just like silk or silkspan. First, I doped the perimeter, center section and spar with 2 coats of nitrate dope lightly thinned. I cut it about ½ inch bigger and applied dry (this was different) by doping the spar and rubbing it down. I then did the trailing edge starting in the middle and working my way to the ends rubbing the dope thru covering. Repeated on the leading edge. I didn’t find curves a problem except the tips, but even then, they weren’t too bad. After the perimeter dried, I pulled the tips taught and dabbed dope in spots and rubbed it thru till it was complete. I then trimmed it with a 1/8 to a ¼ overhang and cut it vertically down in 1/8 or so strips to the tip. I folded them over the tip and doped down. Cutting them allowed them to overlap with wrinkling. I repeated that process on the top. Don’t worry too much about wrinkles. After everything had dried, I took my head gun and shrunk just like monocote. After I put everything together and assure nothing is warped, I will put 2 coats of lightly thinned butyrate, 2 coats of butyrate with talc sanding with steel wool (prevents cutting thru covering), spray with silver (shows every flaw) and then shoot with KlassKote color and finish with clear. Believe it or not, it will probably be lighter than plastic covering. Albeit, it will have taken a whole lot more time, but I do kinda enjoy the process. Don’t get me wrong now, I still like plastic covering, just doing it this way is much easier on profile control line, which I also enjoy. Also, you can easily tell which side is which.

John

Andrew

Thank you for the explanation. Butyrate with talc is pretty old school. Are you using oil free steel wool and, if not, how do you keep it from discoloring the finish?

andrew

buzzard bait

John gave a good description of doing it just like silkspan, but I'd just like to add something from my experience with it. The vertical cuts are fine and will disappear after more doping and sanding, but you don't have to do it that way.

After you have a couple of coats on the framework and you've got the covering attached to the edges of the frame, you can use your film iron to stretch and iron the Polyspan around the wingtip. Do the bottom first, and at some arbitrary point, trim it off, then do the top over it. You might be surprised at how much it will bend around compound curves. You have to pull it and use heat at the same time.

Also note that dope is thermoplastic and the Polyspan will stick to a dry coat of dope, if there is enough on the surface. Or you could put some white glue on the tip, let it dry, lightly sand off the fuzz, and then stick the Polyspan to that.

Jim

flyingagin

I have built three Falcons when I was a teenager. Two Falcon 56s, silk and dope covered.
And one Jr. Falcon, dope and silkspan covered. Cox Black Widow .049 for power. Two channles, rudder and elevator.
No survivers.
I used a Heatkit 8 channle radio that I built. Real heavy compared to what we have today.
The little Jr. Falcon flew well with that load.
I just dug out both plans and the Jr. Falcon plans are sitting on my desk now. I have an original Cox TD .049, but I think I would rather do electric so I could park fly it.
I have some Futaba s133s, would need new Rx

Rubbernecker

My Feedback: (22)

Thanks Jim, I will try that. I read where you could use the iron to create a crease, but not to stretch it around a curve. I will be doing the stab in a few minutes and will let you know how it worked.

John

Rubbernecker

My Feedback: (22)

Thank you for the explanation. Butyrate with talc is pretty old school. Are you using oil free steel wool and, if not, how do you keep it from discoloring the finish?

andrew
[/quote]

Guess not, I'm not having any issues on other planes I have done. Didn't know it came oiled????? Yea this is old school, but you would be amazed at the number of modelers out there that have never heard of it, let alone done it. Just love the smell of dope in the morning! Now the little lady doesn't. [&o]

John

Rubbernecker

My Feedback: (22)

I just dug out both plans and the Jr. Falcon plans are sitting on my desk now. I have an original Cox TD .049, but I think I would rather do electric so I could park fly it.
I have some Futaba s133s, would need new Rx
[/quote]

Let me know what combo you use, I think I may do a Jr Skylark and do it electric. You may want to shoot me a PM, these guys may block us from speaking that dirty word here. My Jr Falcon will have a .049 slimer. I love them, just figured I would try something different.

John

flyingagin

I am still educating my self in regards to electric Have never bought (dirty word) or built one. Something like an an outrunner system pulling about 100W, and 1000 to 1300 kv would put a smile on your face. I think?
Heck if I gotta make parts for a plane might as well make 2 parts and 2 planes. 1 electic and 1 with the TD and a bladder tank. Silkspan and dope.
Trying to clear off my current project. Got way behind because of a move and some other things that took a chunk out of my time and money.

Rubbernecker

My Feedback: (22)

O.K., the iron thing on the tips worked fairly good. Maybe I didn't have enough dope on it, but it still made it easier. Picture one is before shrinking and 2 is after and 3 is the tip. Will do the fuse tomorrow and then start sealing.

John

Rubbernecker

My Feedback: (22)

Finally an update. The doping and sanding process is kinda time consuming so there was nothing to show. Almost ready for paint. Waiting for the canopy so I can install and put filler around it before I paint. Well, I wanted to see where she balanced and so far, she is right on the money. It weighs just under 10 oz as you see it. I have a 400 mah nimh pack in the front compartment. No servos or receiver or wheels, but all of that with paint should add no more than 3 oz. Am pleased with the weight. Believe the first one I built 30 some years ago was well over a pound. Huge receiver, full size servos and 4 AA batteries. No wonder it wouldn't fly.....

John

RickP

My Feedback: (2)

Nice Job,
Looking good! Can't wait to hear the flight report, maybe video?
RP

Kaos1964

My Feedback: (12)

Looking great!

Reading this thread brought back memories of the JR Falcon I built when I was in 6th grade - that would be circa 1977-ish. I had just entered the hobby (can't do it a whole lot sooner I guess) and if memory serves, I powered the thing with a golden bee with a throttle sleeve, and rudder only.

A buddy and I figured it would be a good idea to take it to the local school to do some taxi-testing, minus the wing. Well, we drove it around like crazy for awhile, got a bit too far away from my flight box, and some teenagers drove by and stole my entire collection of flightline equipment. [:@]


I was crushed but somehow got over it and have enjoyed the hobby ever since.

Thanks for the thread!