XJet

How do most of you guys handle two-tone color schemes when using plastic-film covering?

Let's say (for example) that I want to do some nice "rays" that radiate out from the center of the wing and run towards the tips. These rays might make up some 30% of the total wing surface area so simply using more film over the top of the base covering will add more weight won't it.

I gather there's no way to actually mask and paint covering film in a way that will provide any sensible results so is the only option to use what amounts to a double-thickness in those areas. And how do you get the inevitable bubbles out from between the two layers?

Gosh, things have changed since the days of model-span and banana oil eh? :-)

combatpigg

My Feedback: (3)

HI XJET! Apply the monokote design to the monokote under layment without heat. Spray WINDEX on the plane, lay out your graphics, then squeegee the bubbles out. Let it thoroughly dry, this might take a day. The design can be fuel proofed by painting the edges with waterbased polyurethane.

BMatthews

I've never had much luck with getting NO bubbles but with patience, low heat and a pin you can get pretty good results. I have yet to try the windex method but I would imagine it works as CP says but I'd still like to heat seal it on. But, of course, that may raise yet more bubbles

But you're right that doing that way will be heavier. If it's anywhere close to a 50-50 split in areas then you may be better off cutting the pieces out and making up your own panels of covering with overlapping edges first. For that I'd stick to 1/4 to 3/8 laps and heat seal them prior to covering. You'll then need to register the cover closely to the wing but if you only use light tacks it should be easy to get it spot on. And then you'll need to use the iron only for shrinking and avoid the lap seams.

But I must admit that I've never done it that way so now I'll sit back and wait for the experts..

combatpigg

My Feedback: (3)

HI Xjet! There are modern graphic art companys[sign shops] that can print any art work imaginable onto clear laminating film, then you would have a single layer, multi color sheet of plastic to lay on your model, this is how businesses decorate their service trucks and the guys who lay the stuff on are masters at the craft. The process involves painting the underside of the plastic, then the paint becomes the heat activated adhesive. These guys who do the laminating like to pick a hot day to apply the film.. I dont think this is a practical solution for us, if you build light enough then you can leave your self with enough head room[weight wise] to lay a couple of extra swatches of trim down. I forgot to mention in the earlier reply to check out the PROFILE forum, there is a guy over there who goes by TERMIGATOR who does magical things with monokote[X(]!

Big_3Dan

Xjet

I used the windex method on a 3D plane and it workds and its that easy, just spray windex, position your monokote trims (works for the sticky kind of monokote too) get the windex out with a old credit card let dry..later on you can add heat to the edges or I think theres some monokote solvent or something you can use to make it stick to just use a cotton swab around the adges and there ya go Gotta give credit to the guys on the profile for that, like combatpigg says you should ceck termagator's work with monokote.