tonyL1

My Feedback: (1)

Hi all, I picked up a older 1978 Cox 1/2A motor, I havent tried turning it over, due to fear of
damaging piston etc, engine looks good besides that, I was wondering, how would I free it up
before using, its not seized, could I remove glow head, and squirt some after run oil in there
and let it work itself in for a bit? as for starting it when I do get it cleaned, I have everything
I need, fuel 25% nitro , 18% oil, glow clip and battery, and the lil wrench etc.
this engine is on a 1970's freeflight UFO thingy, called a Star Cruiser! it's cool lol

Big Al-RCU

Tony, I’ve tried what you suggest with mixed results. It’s probably better to just bite the bullet and remove the engine. Remove the backplate/tank, head and cylinder. Wash/soak everything in solvent, oil and put back together. If it’s a reed valve engine then pay special attention to the reed and the needle valve passages in the backplate. If a TeeDee then the same applies to the needle/carb assy. These small engines will not tolerate dried/gummed fuel anywhere in the fuel passages or reed area and for that reason they have a reputation for being ‘finicky’. But kept clean they are just as easy starting and reliable as any other size.
Hope this helps,
Al

gcb

Tony,

I'd squirt a little fuel in it to free it up. That dissolves dried castor very quickly. By all means take the back off as Al suggested and make sure the reed is operating properly.
Make sure the fuel lube is at least half castor. The ball socket needs it. I prefer 20%-22% mostly castor lube, but that's just me.
Is that Star Cruiser one of those frizbee type things?

George

Tom @ Buzzard Bluff

If it's stuck from dried castor (most likely) then a complete disassembly is the order of the day. Try to get it moving first by applying a heat gun to semi-liguify the dried oil. Cox reedies have an oil groove in the crank journal. If it is full of dried castor it might or might not disolve from the effects of the fuel if you just run it. If it doesn't then it can very quickly gall the crank/case from excessive heat build-up from lack of lube to the front of the crank. Even cooking disassembled engines in a crock-pot of anti-freeze won't always clean the oiling groove and a needle or piece of small (.015-.025) music wire must be used to physically scrape out the goop from the groove. HTH, Tom

DICKEYBIRD

As Tom mentioned, cleaning out the oil groove is a critical step. Use acetone to dissolve the "petrified" castor from the metal parts. I'm afraid the only way to properly clean that oil groove is to remove the crankshaft to get to it. I like to use a Q-tip.

BMatthews

To take off the prop driver so you can take out the crank requires a bit of work. I like to make a wood jib with a U slot to support the drive washer around the nose of the crankcase. A hardwood like birch, maple, cherry or oak works best. Put the crankcase into the jig with the washer up, put in the prop screw and GENTLY tap it with a hammer using more of a push than a hit to bump the washer loose.

tonyL1

My Feedback: (1)

Hi all, semi related to my first post of the Cox FreeFlight UFO, here's a link that shows
them , I just had my first experience flying one of these a hour ago, and I was blown
away lol, its awesome , I have 3 of these now, and One I tried tonight was a Cox Nomad
which came in mail yesterday off Ebay, the gummed up one I havent touched yet. is a 1978
Cox Star Cruiser and the third is a Cox Attack Cobra Freeflight Heli .

this is link that shows the saucers:

http://homepage.ntlworld.com/colin.h...es/saucer.html