t_kwink

OK, ran it again today. Ran it again with the 25% Norvel fuel.

5.5-4 Master airscrew with std. plug, 1 gasket = 16,200 RPM
5.5-4 Master airscrew with high comp. plug, 1 gasket = 16,300 RPM
6-3 Zingali, std. plug = 15,100 RPM

It never really sounded "clean" when it ran. It ran with a needle setting of 4.5 turns out, which seems like a ton, and when it wasn't running, fuel was running out of the carb. I am going to do a good check for air leaks, But I don't think there are any. I'm thinking the carb might just be too big. I thought about trying a fuel bladder, but I have no idea how to do that.

Wink

Tim Wiltse-RCU

Wink,

Hey those aren't half bad numbers!

Later,
Tim

t_kwink

I thought they looked pretty good too. I hope a find an air leak or some other simple reason why it wants the needle so rich. I forgot to mention that the engine (other than reed vlave) is as it was out of the box other than the standard glow plug.

Wink

BuzzBomber

My Feedback: (4)

I was REALLY hoping to be able to participate in this year's design contest, but unless things change around here, it don't look too good. I just got married two weeks ago and just got back to the real world from my Hawaiian hiatus honeymoon, so I've got a ladybug to finish building and a TD .020 to fiddle with before I can think about trying to design something......oh well, I'm certainly not complaining.

av8rsodt

My Feedback: (23)

What I have in the works....

1. Complete an .049 TD Dickeybird modification. I have used an Ace throttle ring in the past with 10% Omega fuel and it worked great, so I am anxious to see what the DM .049 TD will do...

2. Put #1 into an L-19 Bird Dog I am planning. These will be based upon the smaller Bird Dog kit from Berkeley. A friend gave me a partially built one that he started as a kid, probably back in the late 50's - so a good inspiration. I would like to finish it like the picture below (pilot included).

3. Thinking about my entry in the next 1/2A Design contest... something fast. Matchless and Digger designs have me interested in trying something new, plus I can use their expertise!

1/2A Forever!
Brian

ajcoholic

My Feedback: (10)

Matt, congratulations! My day is Nov 6th... but no honeymoon as we are both too busy and money is tight.

AJC

Bipe Flyer

I thought that Norvel NVX used Klotz Benol racing castor. It seems funny that they would recommend castor lube for their engines and not sell it in their fuel.

Japanman

wink,
sounds as Tim says that the engine might be a bit over compressed and adding in the head gaskets would be what I`d try too. How easy is the engine to start? does it start by hand or do you need an electric starter?

J.M

ptulmer

My Feedback: (5)

Bipe, I looked around and only found synthetic klotz. I made the assumption that was what they used. Never saw the Benol Racing Castor you spoke of. I emailed the technician to clear it up. If he answers, I'll post it. Seems strange that I went through about three heads before I changed fuel on my cox's, but I may have also needed more gaskets for the extra 10%nitro. (isn't Cox fuel 25%?)

Bipe Flyer

I think I read somewhere that this is the oil is used in the Norvel fuel.
http://www.klotzlube.com/Merchant2/m...de=RC_PRODUCTS

The Wildcat website states that they make Cox and Norvel fuel, but it doesn't specify whether they make the fuel that Cox and Norvel sell or if they make fuel that can be used for Cox and Norvel engines.
http://www.wildcatfuel.com/fuel_supera.html

I don't know what properties of the fuel might cause the Cox heads to blow. I used to use Omega, which seemed to foul the plugs so I switched to Norvel NVX for a couple of bottles, but my LHS seemed to think that a quart should cost the same as a gallon of Cool Power so I started getting Red Max fuel from FHS Supply about 4 years ago. One thing I like about Red Max is that they mix it to the customer's specs. I get 20% castor & 25% nitro to run in my Norvel and Cox engines.
http://members.aol.com/FHSoil/RedMax.html

ptulmer

My Feedback: (5)

This is a copy of the email I got back from Norvel. Thanks for the links. I'll have to order some redmax for my VA at least. Can't find any castor based fuel locally.

Hi Patrick,

Klotz is synthetic oil.

Regards,
Justin Van Dee
Norvel Tech
SIG Mfg.

BuzzBomber

My Feedback: (4)

Hmm, this is weird. Not ALL klotz is synthetic, unless I'm misreading the tech sheets somehow. I guess it's not benol that norvel uses, since that IS degummed castor. My LHS guy told me NVX was benol......oh well.

BTW, thank you AJC, and congratulations to you as well!!! Money's been tight for us too, but we just dug ourselves further in debt to pay for the honeymoon--can't buy any model stuff for a LONG while now. Whatever you do, make sure you take some time to relax after the big day!

Bipe Flyer

That is strange. I wonder how they explain this then.

t_kwink

I got the thing running, I think I was just blowing plugs because of the difficulty I'm haveing with the mixture. As I mentioned, it ran best with the needle 4.5 turns out, which obviously isn't right. I have check for leaks, lapped in all surfaces, and did a better job of sealing everything, but I'm afraid the problem might be the sub-piston-induction on the killer bee. I think this might be killing the signal to the carb, which is requiring me to set it overly rich. What does everyone think?

Wink

Andrew

Klotz lubricants range from pure synthetic to pure castor -- most of the fuels that Wildcat blends use Klotz but in various ratios of synthetic to castor. The NVX fuel that Wildcat produced used a BENOL/synthetic mix with the majority of oil being castor.

When SIG bought NORVEL (or the distribution rights -- I'm not sure which), they took over the fuel production from Wildcat. Since SIG also sells a pure castor fuel, they may be using BENOL or another AA grade oil. I suspect that since KLOTZ appears on their fuel bottles that they are also using one or more of the KLOTZ blends.

I have been buying Wildcat, then adding BENOL to increase the oil and total castor content.

KLOTZ has an [link=http:////www.klotzlube.com/Merchant2/merchant.mv?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=KS&Category_Cod e=RC_PRODUCTS]R/C products section [/link] in their website with a description of the blends and qualities of each of their lubes.

Tim Wiltse-RCU

Wink,

I don't know...hummmm SPI is as far as I know made to equilize pressure in the case and maybe to bring in that little wiff of fresh air. I would think with a reed valve engine the reed would close before any backpressure could leave the crankcase. I guess the control here would be to make another backplate and just run a needle through it without the RC carb. Or you could just pack the whole thing up in a box and ship it to me and I will add it to my junk pile

Later,
Tim

Japanman

Wink,
I don`t think it is the SPI either- otherwise you would expect similar trouble with the T.D which has a spi cylinder.
Is there any evidence that the reed is opening too far and hitting something? It sounds to me like you are getting blowback through the carb because the reed is not seating fast enough-

J.M

Tim Wiltse-RCU

Wink,

What is the i.d. of the intake tube on that bad boy? I wonder maybe is it to big and as a result it has low vacume through it.

Later,
Tim

t_kwink

I made it the same size as the original backplate, which is .200" I meassured it from the reed side, and it is this size quite a while before it tapers down for the venturi. I am using the original plastic reed "holder" from the killer bee, so the reed should open the exact distance as it did on the original engine. I know it is sealing well, I tested it with a precise vacuum gauge. Maybe it was just leaking air at the carb attaching screws. I sealed them up good, but haven't gotten to run it yet. I just thought it might be the SPI drawing air in and reducing the amount of air drawn through the carb, but you guys are right, if that were true, the TD and other SPI engines wouldn't meter fuel well either. Maybe I have the air tube too long (the carb too far away from the reed). That extra volume between the venturi and reed might cause the air to loose velocity and become "lazy." Oh well, I'll try it again soon.

Wink

Tim, you really think this thing is junk?
Maybe I am waisting my time...

William Robison

My Feedback: (3)

Wink:

Don't let Tim fish you in. He just wants it for himself.

But I KNOW it's junk. Send it to me instead.

Haw.

Bill.

Tim Wiltse-RCU

No Wink No..I was just joking ..it was a sad attempt at humor...and a cheap trick to get you to send me a really neat motor!!

LAter,
Tim

t_kwink

Tim, what kind of hours are you at your shop on weekdays, and where abouts is it? I'll be over in Concord Thursday morning for a funeral. If you want maybe you can mess with it for a while.

Wink

Tim Wiltse-RCU

Wink,

I wish I got to play with my engines during the daylight on the week days! My day job really throws a wrench in that idea.

Later,
TIm

t_kwink

I don't get to play during the day either, I just thought maybe since I was passing through... Is the anodizing shop your full time "day job"? We sure use a lot of parts at work that could benefit from some anodizing for better looks. Can you do multi-colors on 1 piece?
Wink

Tim Wiltse-RCU

Wink,

Sure multi color is not so hard to do. I am working on a project for Rog and once I get it done I will be able to logos, flames etc. Here is a picture of an engine I did with a mandom pattern on it. No my little anodizing shop is not my day job but I am always trying to get my name out. I of course do alot of Cox/model engine parts but I have also done motorcyle parts( some for a company that suppies the parts for everyones favorite Chopper show),telescope parts, car parts and a couple of months ago some parts that went into a Marines Blackhawk to name a few.

Later,
Tim