cwrr5

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I suddenly had a few days free due to being a little sick(really!), and saw the Roger Dodger plan in the May 2005 MA magazine...

Just too cute to resist!

If you haven't seen it, it's a 35" wingspan, all built up construction, electric(or glow) version of a 1950's control line aerobatic model. To give credit where due, the original RD was designed and flown by Harold "Red" Reinhart, and published in the Mar. 1950 Air Trails magazine. Recently updated and modified by Dick Sarpolus (How the heck do you say his last name?!?), it's suitable for a speed 400 or brushless setup as he describes in the magazine, or 1/2A glow for you "slimer" fans out there. I haven't decided which I'm going to use yet.

I'm following the sequence of construction as presented in the magazine(roughly), but adding my own touches and modifications along the way - and more pictures with details.

Oh, and Dick, if you're out there - THANK YOU! I hope my attempt at this project turns out half as nice as yours did.

So here goes:

cwrr5

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Day 1: After carefully studying the plans and the magazine article repeatedly, I started cutting out all the wing ribs. I also decided to use 1/16" balsa instead of the 3/32" called for just because I had it available and didn't want to go out to get it. (plus, it was 5 A.M. ). Pinned all the ribs down over the 1/4"x1/8" balsa top spar on the plan (This wing is built upside down, resting on little tabs on the trailing edges). When the glue joints set, I added the 1/4" square L.E. and 1"x1/16" trailing edge sheeting. Next, I plugged in the bottom wing spar(2 hardwood pieces), which required some trimming in the ribs for a tight fit.

cwrr5

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Still day 1:
After letting everything sit for a few minutes to cure, I started adding the center section bottom sheeting(Still upside down on the plans). Note the scrap 1/16" balsa in the second picture of the previous post- to set the height of the center ribs for the top sheeting.
If you build one of these, don't forget to remove the pins from the scrap pieces and center ribs before applying the sheeting! I almost pulled a good one at this point, I even had the cap off the CA and was poised to glue the sheeting when I realized that I would have no way to remove the pins! OOOPS! [X(] Last picture: all glue joints checked, center sheeting in place(minus pins), everything dry, and removed from building board and flipped right side up for the next few steps.

cwrr5

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Here comes the fun part... [:'(]
One of the things I like about this design is the diagonal braces between the spars, but just like Dick said in the magazine - they're a real pain. Working VERY slowly and carefully, I measured, cut, sanded, and sanded each 1/4"x1/8" (another change from the original - same reason as above) balsa strip to fit between the ribs and spars-and ended up with a small pile of "rejects" that got sanded too much. In the center two rib bays, I used 1/16" balsa sheet sheer webs instead of the diagonal thingies so that all four corners between those ribs would have more support and rigidity(sp?). I just used a couple of balsa blocks pinned to the board to hold the wing so I didn't have to bend over to align all the stuff between the spars, worked suprisingly well.

cwrr5

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Next I cut and sanded all the tabs off the top of the wing ribs, and sanded a 1/16" slice out of each rib to take the top trailing edge sheeting, and glued that in with some trial and error. I also realized that my trusty "modelling clamps" (clothes pins) are just about due for replacement, as I clamped the trailing edge together, and broke a couple in the process. They have accumulated lots of "gunk" over the years, and have gotten weak in spots. Wingtips are cut from a 1/4" scrap balsa sheet and glued on, didn't break any clamps this time! They'll get sanded to shape later. I also added two pieces of 1/32 ply on either side of the center rib to "beef up" where the dowel will go. The way I fly, it's gonna need it.

cwrr5

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Last step for today: I cut a small section of the center rib just behind the spar for the aileron servo (not shown) and installed the 1/16" balsa top center sheeting. After everything had again dried, and I "flew" the wing for a few minutes, , then I cut the wingtip blocks about 1/8" around the profile of the wing and lightly sanded everything with 150 grit and shaped the wingtip blocks to the contour of the wing. I'll build the ailerons and tail feathers tomorrow, and probably get the wing covered as soon as I decide on a color scheme.

Total time so far: about 4 hours(including breaks)

ebeneezer3

Which version of the rudder will you use?

cwrr5

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The full-depth, further back, "alternate", whatever you want to call it. I like to use rudder - a lot. Plus, it's easier to add a tailwheel if needed.

gcb

If you ever built or have seen the original Roger Dodger plans you would realize that "inspired by" would be a better term. My first CL plan built plane was a RD from an old mag that someone gave me in the mid '50s. Flew terribly due to the warp I had in the wing.
Dick Sarpolus's version is a great looking plane though.

George

cwrr5

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I stand corrected. Thanks for the info. [8D]

Joe Fisher

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I am planing to build one. What I have in mind is to make it to put in a box in the trunk of the car. I plan to put the rudder on like the origonal and have a slot for the stab and put a nylon screw through the stab to hold it in place. That way it will fit better in the box. I expect the rudder to be effective in that possion. The effectiveness of the rudder is dependent on the center of gravity of the airplane. If the airplane is to nose heavy the rudder won't work verey well.

cwrr5

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That's a good idea, I usually keep a plane or two in my truck for those "spur of the moment" flying sessions. Just be careful in the summertime that you don't have the wing or fuse resting on something. The heat buildup in the car will unevenly shrink the covering and warp the structure. It's best to leave the windows cracked as much as you securely can and check for warps before you fly. Also, transmitters and batteries(all types) don't like heat at all.

Interesting idea on the removeable stab, I'll have to think about that one some more. You're right about the rudder effectiveness, but I don't usually end up with nose heavy planes. If anything, I have to shift(or add) weight forward to get to the right range. I like the alternate design better personally, with the full depth rudder, if nothing else, just for looks. I'm also thinking about adding landing gear, but that's a ways off yet.

Does anyone have any pictures of the original roger dodger? I've never seen one myself, the magazine article is the first I've ever heard of it. My intent was never to build a copy of the original, just something similar to what I saw in the magazine while I have a few days with not much else to do. Got pinkeye from the little guy(again! [:@] ), so flying has been out of the question for this week, as I don't think I could see well enough to safely fly. Doing ok in the shop though.

More to follow...

cwrr5

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Here's some of the progress for day 2(had to take a long-ish break to go fly!):
The pictures are pretty much self-explanatory... I used a metal ruler while pinning down the leading and trailing edges of the ailerons. The 1/8" balsa is so thin that it has a tendency to bend in some odd directions if left free. Also added the 1/8x1/8 cross pieces and 1/8x1/2" tips. All glued and dried while I was still trying to get my eyes open.

cwrr5

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On to the tail feathers...
Here's where I make some more small changes. Using the same method of using the metal ruler to make sure the edges are straight, I pinned down all the edges of the elevator and horiz. stab. I built both halves joined together, and will cut where needed later on. I'll also install a hardwood dowel joiner between the two halves. Used 1/8" sq. diagonals for more better stiffness - can't have "floppy" tailfeathers now, can we? (Yes- probably overkill).

cwrr5

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Vertical stab and rudder, more modifications - same idea and techniques as the horizontal stab and elevator. Trailing edge of rudder cut from 1/8" sheet balsa very carefully with an x-acto. Almost dropped the knife through my foot (thankfully missed) when battery charger started beeping at me. Did some careful sanding to match each of the curvy parts together, added more diagonals from 1/8" sq. balsa, and added more 1/8 sheet at the bottom of the vertical stab for attachment to the fuselage. All the extra stuff sticking out around the edges will just be sanded off into just about the right shape, I'm not a perfectionist. It won't match the plan exactly when I'm done, but it should work "good enough".

cwrr5

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Your comments, suggestions, questions, critisism, etc, are always welcome. (as if anyone's actually looking at this )

I never really planned to build this thing, it just happened to "fall" on to my building board somehow. Total build time so far: roughly 6 hours.

cwrr5

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Day three:
Started on fuselage bright and early by cutting the fuse sides and formers. Decided to change some more small stuff just for grins, and used 1/16" balsa instead of the 3/32" as called for( 'cause I don't have any right now. ) I'm also experimenting with a small piece of 1/32" ply for an instrument panel, trying to "stain" it with coffee. I'm not too impressed so far, and may give up and use a different method.

cwrr5

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Set the fuselage sides and formers up square, and pinned to the building board for gluing. Just used some scrap balsa block as supports for the sides. I omitted the 1/32" ply fuselage doublers behind the wing for now. I might go back in later and add them back in or possibly just use 1/8" diagonals in the aft section. Still undecided.

In case anyone is wondering, the orange handled pliers are for removing pins from inside the fuselage after it's put together. Not enough space in there to get fingers.

cwrr5

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So far, the fuselage structure is put together and aligned over a straight line and former drawing (copy of a copy of a copy... ) and everything is lining up decently with minor adjustments. I did get a little carried away with the little "feet" I gave the first two formers, and the slots cut into the fuselage side are too long. Oh well, nothing a little filler won't fix.

After all the formers were installed and aligned, I pulled the ends of the fuselage together and clamped them, making sure that they are lined up vertically over the center line and even with each other, flat on the building board. Also started adding 1/16 balsa "skin" on forward fuselage top, just in front of the cockpit.

cwrr5

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When adding the sheeting, I sanded a 45 degree angle along one side, the taped them to the fuselage sides before pulling them down snugly over the formers. This method produces really tight seams, almost invisible even before sanding. All glue is added to the inside as much as possible as I want to cover the plane in some combination of transparent colors - probably monokote or ultrakote, whatever I have laying around. Just a note: I'm using thin and medium CA throughout this plane, I just don't feel like waiting for my usual carpenters glue to dry(several hours to handle). I really DO NOT LIKE these @#$%@$#!@! fumes!!! (or peeling my fingerprints off after I try to glue myself to the plane)

cwrr5

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To finish up for today, just added top sheeting to the fuselage, and sanded joints lightly with 220 grit to remove stray CA and fingerprints.

The coffee stained instrument panel is now officially a "no-go". Got some weird pattern into the wood that can't be removed. I'm trying to come up with a way to do this with readily available materials that I already have around in the shop. More thinking required...

cwrr5

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And here's all the parts kinda sorta sitting together. Pack of cigarettes is for size reference. At least it somewhat looks like what's on the plans...

Build time for today kind of hard to estimate, had to do other things due to mom's day and stuff... roughly 3-4 hours spread out over the whole day, not including messing with instrument panel and numerous breaks.

gcb

cwrr,

Don't have a current plane or pic, and my plans are packed away, but I can provide a little info. First, when original is mentioned in the build process, it is the different rudder styles on Dick's version, nothing to do with the "real" original. My guess is that Dick Sarpolus knew Red Reinhardt. This is a nice tribute to Red.

The original Roger Dodger was designed by Harold "Red" Reinhardt. It was(is) a 1/2A CL plane. It is very lightly built and was powered by the original OK Cub (.049). The plans were published in the March 1950 issue of Air Trails. Interestingly, the plans were reverse printed, that is white lines on a black background. I built mine from plans in the mag by using the scale provided on the plan.

Construction was typical of Red's planes in that the fuselage and wing were assembled together. The wing LE, TE and spars were inserted through holes in the fuselage. No wing sheeting. The fuselage itself used sheet sides with the upper and lower part consisting of stringers mounted over fuselage formers... no solid top or bottom. The front of the fuselage was flat, using a tilted firewall to provide out thrust. The engine was radial mounted, cylinder pointing out, using wood screws. The stabilizer hinge line was at the rear of the fuselage and the elevator was one piece. Controls were external with the bellcrank mounted on a plywood gusset that was attached to the lower wing spar and a rib. The wing LE was removed inside the fuselage to make room for the home-made fuel tank.

Remember that was 1950 and construction methods were evolving. Compare that to Dick's RC version where the wing has center sheeting and the fuselage is mounted on top of the wing.

Red Reinhardt won MANY contests and published several of his designs. My favorite is the "El Diablo". I never met Red but have heard and read quite a lot about him.

Darn, if I can find time I'd like to build both the CL and RC versions. They're both nice. So many planes, so little time.

George

cwrr5

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Thanks for the info! As I get further into this little project, I find myself getting more and more curious about the original. I have done the usual internet searches(RCU, Yahoo, Google), and so far have come up with nothing about this plane. The "blueprint" style plans are interesting... pretty unusual, I wonder why they were printed that way?

I didn't know Mr. Reinhardt, and had never heard of him until I saw the article. I agree, sounds like a wonderful tribute to a very accomplished person, and I can only hope that my efforts are somewhat worthy. I'll do more research and learn more.

As the building techniques have changed(evolved?), I guess you could kinda call this "grandson of Roger Dodger"...?

cwrr5

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Here's the progress for today. Didn't accomplish too much, as it's time to go back to work ( [:'(] ). Started off by sanding the ailerons roughly to shape, making sure that they're exactly the same. Used clothes pins to hold them together so they don't slip. Cut the wing hold down plate and trailing edge piece from 1/8" ply, and two pieces of 1/32" ply to sort of "clamp" the trailing edge piece to the wing.
Made guide tubes for the aileron torque rods from 3/32" brass tubing, and the torque rods themselves are 1/16" music wire with a 90 degree bend in one end. I'll bend the other end after using the long sides for alignment to the trailing edge of the wing.