ProBroJoe

Hi guys... just wanted to share my latest project - it's the .010 Littlest Stick slimmed down a little so it wouldn't look so "pudgy". Also, I've increased the moments a little in hopes of removing most of the twitchy behaviour that I've read a lot about here.

I basically took the Littlest Stick plans and cut 1/4" off of the bottom of the fuse, 1/4" total off of the width, stretched the nose 3/8" and added a little over 3/4" of length to the tail. I also increased the tail surfaces about 1/8" all around. The firewall has 3 deg. down thrust, and the flat-bottomed wing is at +2 deg. I plan on adding a bay to each half of the wing, and using all of the dihedral that the plans call for (since this will be a rudder/elevator plane).

Here I thought the 1/2A stuff was small - what I've once considered balsa scraps now becomes a rudder or a couple of wing ribs!

I'm planning on updating the plans to reflect my changes and of course making them available - I'll keep ya'll posted on the progress.

Now, what to cover this thing with?

-Joe

P.S. Anyone know where I can get a thottle for a T.D. .010? (Ducking....)

ptulmer

My Feedback: (5)

Throwing something heavy and sharp!

You've got some pretty good choices for lightweight covering. Tower has some by Coverite. I can't remember the name, but it's goes by other names too. Larry carries some at kittingittogether.com
The INFAMOUS ONE (Combatpigg) uses cellophane with 3M77 sprayed on the back. Gotta use the transparent stuff so it'll shrink.
Nice job on the dimensions. I'd put money on you having a winner there!

mr_leffe

Are you going to use the tank mount for fuel or put a tank in the fuse to go for the extended adrenaline rush?

combatpigg

My Feedback: (3)

The cellophane and 3M77 is great for combat planes and proto types, but the seams get attacked by the fuel pretty quickly. The planes that I built last year and have flown fairly often all have clear tape patches, and look raggedy. For a .010 that doesn't probably have as much exhaust spray as a .049, the cellophane might be a good choice because it is so light and easy to work with.

flyinrog

My Feedback: (1)

PBJ (no not that one) it looks like you have an LS150 with an .049 that you have now basically have shrunk back to a LS ,,it looks good though,, and less twitchy,,as for covering,,I'd go ulatracote in the transparent colors,,but not green!!!,,,I lost a plane in waist high grass not long ago.....yeah it was transparent green...go with the purple ..Rog

ptulmer

My Feedback: (5)

Ya know, I used Black Baron film for my DNU! It was lightweight and REALLY easy to put on. The best part? It come in Fokker Red. It just seemed appropriate.[sm=cool.gif]

ProBroJoe

Thanks for the kind words guys.... I read through all of the littlest stik / LS150 posts here and basically took all of the suggestions and applied them to the Petite Stik. Then Dave one ups me and goes and posts his LaStick!!! Of course I downloaded the PDF.

I think for now I'll stick with the tank mount and see how it flies, then if it's a keeper, I'll go ahead and add a tank. BTW, I had the little T.D. running yesterday and within a couple of minutes I was able to hold 27,500 RPM. Wow, I'm not used to that kinda RPM!

Covering... hmmmmm... I think I'm going break down and see what the LHS in stock - (I'm too skeered to experiment with the cellophane on this one). I'm half tempted to use the left over Monokote so I have a matching airplanes, but I'm trying to "think light"... it's hard not "beefing this up here" or "adding a bit more glue there".

Got the wing framed up this morning, so I'll be needing that covering soon!

-Joe

Raymond LeFlyr

My Feedback: (2)

Joe,

Congratulations! Your Petite Stick looks like a reall winner. I agree with Rog that it does look like a thinned LS-150 - and that's a compliment.

I have two working "Littlest Sticks" running right now - one with a TD .01 and the other is an electric (Wee Stick actually). Both are covered with laminating film with floral spray lightly applied on the glue side. Its still the lightest, shrinkable, fuel proof, AND cheapest covering I have ever used. There are many web sources. I get mine in 20-inch by 200-foot (no typos) rolls for less than $25 including shipping. Its more than strong enough as I have two flying IMAA planes covered with it. Do a search for "laminating film".

ptulmer

My Feedback: (5)

With the use of fuel containing "Friction Modifiers" you can obtain 33,000 rpm![:-]

Check out this link. I've used this stuff on one airplane. LOW HEAT! Low shrink, too. Still, it's so freakin light...

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXGDV9&P=7

fritzke

My Feedback: (1)

ProBro,
Just goes to prove great minds think alike!
I don't think Gene "thinned" his fuselage, but he did
lengthen the tail a bit. I suppose if it's longer, it's automatically "thinner", huh?
He told me it is essentially a scaled down Ugly Stick now.
I had originally created a CAD replica of the Ace Version, then
made modifications that I felt were appropriate for a 2-3 channel
plane, then Gene ran with that and created this little beauty from there.
Posting it got delayed due to my wedding and
honeymoon, then a 5 day fishing trip. I have managed to crash 2 planes
in the last month though, not enough actual stick time lately I guess.
Dave

BMatthews

What's wrong with good old tissue and dope? For a model of this size it's a simple way to get a great look, some skin strength and to keep it light.

The ONLY plastics I'd use on such a small model where weight is important is the new thin films for lightweight park flyers. Stuff like Litespan and that Black Baron ultralight material comes to mind. ALL of the Monokote, Ultracoat and similar films are far too heavy for small models.

ptulmer

My Feedback: (5)

Bruce, I think you're talking about the stuff I linked to above. .6oz per square YARD! It's light fer sure! And has the consistancy of saran wrap.[:'(] Shrinks about as much as saran wrap too. But once installed it's very nice.

combatpigg

My Feedback: (3)

I would love to be able to use tissue and dope, but I've never acheived fuel proofness. These .01s probably run better, the more nitro you can feed them too. The high rpm controversy about these engines needs to be qualified with what the nitro content is being run. Last I checked, POWERMASTER sold your higher nitro blends still, but try to get a hobby store to order it special, because the freight was horrendous last time I looked into it. I would like to know more about RAYMONDs' method of tinting the laminating film, I have the stuff myself, but never knew about tinting it. This stuff won't come loose and it is so thin, it is hard to find a seam. I cover CL combat planes with it.

rrragmanliam

My Feedback: (1)

Hi Joe,

I agree with PTULMER the .06 oz iron on is the way to go. Coveright microlight is an example. I've used it alot and it's very easy to use. First photo is a three channel R/E/T (Adams not the @3$/*& MF thing).010 stick I built and it was a PIG for two reasons.

1. My batteries were too heavy (aaa nicads)

2. The only covering I had on hand was monocoat that's at least double to 2 1/2 times the weight of the .6 oz covering. It came in at almost 6oz. It flew but just barely. I ended up just slapin a pee wee .020 on it and got rid of the whole throttle set up.

So what did I do with that monster throttled .010? I put it on a Radical RC Microstick (second photo). 3 3/4 oz. and it's a very nice flyer. Used the tank mount and a 3.ml eyedropper bottle for the tank. Batteries are 1/3aaa NiMH home made pack.

Darren

johnvb-RCU

My Feedback: (1)

CP, how about trying some clear nail polish on the seams? I use it around the edges of film etc. near the engine bay and wing LE. Seems to work okay.

Raymond LeFlyr

My Feedback: (2)

CP,

Here is a shot of my Wee Stick (red, orange, then yellow on the wing) and Sharkface (red wing and tail and black on the fuselage) that are covered with laminating film - with floral spray (from Michaels or A.C. Moore locally) on the glue side. The lettering is outdoor sign vinyl.

Yes, it IS fuel proof, the maximum I use is 25%. Sharkface is a couple of years old and has never had any problem with film lifting around the firewall even with the paint. My Telemaster wing (we don't talk about its first fuselage around here) is well into its second decade. It still has the original Rustoleum paint on top of the film. I have NEVER had a single Monokote bubble under laminating film since I have been using it since the mid '70s (that's nineteen - 70s, I'm not THAT old).

I have tried spraying Rustoleum paint over the glue side for more opaque color and it still works but you have to use more heat and press over the contact area while its still warm.

The floral spray makes a nice transparent-like look (IMHO) and at 1.5 mil thick is pretty durn light. The floral spray adds no weight and dries almost immediately.

If you'd like to try it I'll make you an offer: PM me with your US Mail address and I'll send you enough for a 1/2A model, with MY choice of spray pattern, folded and stuck into an envelope (I've never creased it after I sprayed so if it cracks - tough (what do you want for nothing). Offer limited to the first ten people I hear from.

cwrr5

My Feedback: (32)

OMG! I love it! I GOTTA try the floral spray! I've been fighting with the urge to do a tye-dye scheme plane for a while.... THAT is the answer! THANKS! [sm=thumbup.gif]

As far as covering material, I actually use the colored saran wrap(maybe reynolds, not sure on brand) on some really tiny electrics... seems to work ok, but I would be concerned about fuel proofness of the adhesive(glue stick or thinned elmers white glue)...

BTW... nice planes, all!

ProBroJoe

You know, I was looking at that, and that's probably the way I'm going to go. I thought about tissue and dope, but it's one of those things I'm not very familiar with (and therefore intimidated).

Ummmmm thanks, but that's probably stretching it a bit.

BTW, I weighed the nearly ready to cover fuse/tail and it came in at 3/4 oz.... Thought I was doing good until I put the 2 HS-55s, Plantraco DSP4, 280mAh NiMH pack, and the TD .010 on the scale (along with the fuse/tail) and it jumped up to 3 3/8 oz... that doesn't give me a lot of room for the wing and covering if I want to keep it around 5 - 5 1/2 oz.

-Joe

ptulmer

My Feedback: (5)

If it comes out too heavy just stick a killer bee w/4.2x4 APC on it...[X(]

ProBroJoe

We're getting close now - 4 1/4 oz. ready to cover.... may just get 'er under 5 1/2 oz after all. (I'm not used to working with things on this scale, that's for sure!)

-Joe

combatpigg

My Feedback: (3)

JOHN, Thanks for the fingernail polish trick, I'll try that!

RAY, that is some beautiful work! The colored dye doesn't interfere with the adhesive enough to matter? I guess the seams could be done with the nail polish anyway.

JOE! Nice work! Looks like you will be zipping around in no time. I guess if you can manage to glue 2 things before you accidentally break 1 part, the plane eventually gets framed up.

ProBroJoe

So, you've seen me work? (It ain't far from the truth, that's for sure...)

-Joe

ptulmer

My Feedback: (5)

Darn Joe, you do nice work!

Raymond LeFlyr

My Feedback: (2)

CP,

Please not NOT mess up the laminating film with nail polish, shoe polish, Polish polish, or CA. It is not necessary to seal the seams with anything. Once you are finished shrinking the film, you don't do anything else but fly.

I store most of my models in an un-heated, un-cooled attic here in North Carolina. I have several that have been there since we moved here five years ago. No sags, no bubbles, no loose seams - not one. Please believe me. I do not sell the stuff and I am not compensated by the Laminating Film in Every Home Commission.

ProBroJoe

Thanks, I'm still having a hard time "thinking light" though....

Speaking of light - I ordered the Coverite Microlite and have done a little bit of math - if I figured it correctly, the covering should add less than 1/4 oz, and if I figure in another 1/2 oz for the RX switch/wing dowels/rubber bands, I'll be right at 5 oz. I'm guessing it should fly pretty nice on the 22" wing. (110 sq. in).

Do ya'll think I can get away with using the Microlite for the hinges?

-Joe