Wayne C

For hobby use, a small inexpensive drill press capable of low rpm can be a very wise investment. You could even chuck up a piece of sharpened tubing and gently press holes in thin balsa without even turning on the motor. You can also use a drill press with sanding drums and other tools besides just common twist drill bits.

NJ Georgee

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Well if I had a set of hole saws for my dremel this would be easy work.I tried several methods even the tubing one and I get crushed edges like a dull die would make.Since there are no dremel forstner bits.
Mabey if some of you sujest it to dremel like I did they might make some for it.
Here are pictures of my results. I did sharpen the tube.first with a # 11 then a dremel stone. I just cant get a razor edge to it.

gcedillo

If you have $60.00 dlls. to spare


http://www.rjrcooltools.com/shop_ite...m?subcat_ID=29

Bipe Flyer

You could try drilling a series of different sizeed holes in a piece of 1/2" thick hardwood and then using it as a template to cut holes in balsa with a small router bit in your Dremel. Just like a circle template for drawing on paper.

rainedave

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Those softbore cutters are very nice!

There's always that balsa they're growing in Switzerland:

rainedave

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oops, double post

gcedillo

Swiss balsa?, but Im lactose intolerant.

build light

I am a firm believer of mastering light. Whether the percentage saved is small or large the tecnique should be a part of modeling. I would never be one to discourage the act of trying to save weight in a model regardless of your reasoning.
Bruce has some of the wisest answers I know of. Radio choice is primary for greatest percentgage of weight loss! After that I go with materials and yes that includes the covering. Wood needs to be light for sure. Dense wood can kill you on weight.
As for looks I vote for the built up ribs. Whatever you do go light on whatever adhesive you use.
One other way to make lightening holes is to take a beer can or the like and carefully cut the top and bottom and wrap the thin sharp siding around the appropriate size dowel and this will supply a tool of pretty much any size you need and is almost always on hand. Of course make sure the metal edge extends past the dowel, pencil or other cylindrical object used to give the size needed and wrap with masking tape or other.

Good luck on making a beautiful ship, Robert

mylamo

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Any volunteers to help those out who are hops intollerant ?

NJ Georgee

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I just went the way Adam S sujested ,I just have to work outside on it. I did miss an important detail with the brass tubing,I was suposed to make teeth on the edge by nicking it. So I may go back to that drawing board. Thanks for all your help.

KidEpoxy

just remember the teeth are for cutting hairlike balsa fibers, not digging out wood kerf like a tablesaw tooth.

gcedillo

Just received a set of soft bore cutters from RJR cool tools, they are totally cool, a visit to their site is advised, for example they have a moody small screw extractor., or rotary cutter guides.

http://www.rjrcooltools.com/

NJ Georgee

My Feedback: (3)

Those cutters look nice .Im looking for dremel shanks on what ever I get.Dont have much of a shop,No drill press .I do have large drills but hate to involve them into building my small planes. Heres how they came out and when im done with the small ones ,you can see in the braced one pictured this is my game plan .I have to put holes in the short ones to. We had a nice day checking out machines that fly without wings at Engish Towns Raceway park. Now I can hardly walk..lol

NJ Georgee

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Just thought I would show the slow but fun progress ive made since my last post.Im building this plane from scratch and from the wings up. The fuselage seems like it's the toughest thing to do with out scetches.
For the wings though they are going easy.I used a plastic sewing patern found in Rag .It makes a easy way to measure the spaces.I wanted it in paper but the plastic one is good too. In the one pic with me holding a strip of wood on top of the rib is to show how I intend to make I beam style eibs I also have a 1/2 inch sheeting there too in front of it.Well later I plane to spray the ribs chrome after I seal them and then Im using clear covering to reveal the ribs ,being its a Partial 3D plane.Next Im going to get a cowl and canopy from Towers replacement parts to use in the measuring of the fuselage. I just hope Tower does'nt cut down anymore on there ancillaries. Whats a goodway to seal wood so that it does'nt show the grain.
Primer? I heard of some type of talcom powder treatment ,but I have know idea how its done.
Regards,Georgee