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Old 08-29-2006, 06:43 PM
  #1  
flyswatter
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Default RR1 Questions

As some of you know, I have been looking for a RR1 over the past months. I just recently realized that I don't know much about them. I figured I would come to the learned folks of the 1/2A Forum and ask the following:

1) What prop would be used on one? I assume it should be proped for rpm - say a 3.5-4 inch diameter with a 4 pitch?

2) What kind of rpm should be expected from the suggested prop?

3) What nitro content should be used (ie, 35%)?

4) Can the back plate be removed or replaced to use a "standard" tank for longer runs?

5) Has anyone tried a pipe on one? How did it work?

6) Is getting a RR1 worth the effort and price?

I would appreciate your comments and suggestions.

Thanks guys.
Old 08-30-2006, 07:41 AM
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ptulmer
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Default RE: RR1 Questions

Well, I think I can tackle one of these. Instead of replacing the tank (I don't think you can) you can run an external tank with the integral tank. Just hook the vent on the Cox up to the pickup on the external tank and run a 2nd line out of the external tank for a vent.

Or, I have a spare balloon tank adapter you can have!

That reminds me. When I have enough $ to buy and RR1, I'm getting that 4-jaw chuck for the lathe. The plans for a tuned pipe are in my project book!
Old 08-30-2006, 07:46 AM
  #3  
Tim Wiltse-RCU
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Default RE: RR1 Questions

Flyswatter,

Like any of the more hi-po engines a 5x3 is a good place to start it you want to run a RR-1. I used to have a field test report from some old mag someplace on the RR-1 but sadly it's long gone. If I remember right the article stated performance equal to that of a stock T.D. .049( yes the article was a few years after the RR-1's were made). Just run your normal Cox fuel in it. You are stuck kind of using the RR-1's tank unless you want to drill holes into it..which at that point makes the engine worthless and I would have to come down there and beat you with Rog's Spyders fuse!!!! The tank looks like a standard 8cc tank but with the ribs turned into it but inside the drum rotor runs in the nose of the tank. For what RR-1s are going for to buy one to run it's not worth it IMO. A good tweaked reedie can run about as good. For the price people pay they are just sitting on shelves.

Later,
Tim
Old 08-30-2006, 08:13 AM
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flyswatter
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Default RE: RR1 Questions

I got another question. Does the RR1 qualify for the reedie race? If it doesn't, then what if it were painted silver and Tim was not allowed to get close enough to see it good?

Tim, if I drilled holes in it, I would hold still while you beat me with Rog's Spyder fuse! You are right, I would deserve it.
Old 08-30-2006, 08:53 AM
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Tim Wiltse-RCU
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Default RE: RR1 Questions

No....it does not qualify for the reedie races punk! It would for any unlimited race though!

Later,
Tim
Old 08-30-2006, 03:30 PM
  #6  
dennis
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Default RE: RR1 Questions

You guys are forgetting that the crank was special also. It had a pin on it to drive the rotor, so no you cant put a reedie tank on it. The rotor pin will hit the reed .
Oh I have both of my origional RR1's and run them from time to time. Shame that they wern't made longer as they still are some of the most potent motors that you can buy.
Dennis

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