mnrcaerobat

My Feedback: (197)

I am setting up a HOB p-51 and have a few questions. It's been a while since I have flown the small planes.

What prop? I think we used 6x4 MAS in the past.
WHat size tank with the 074? It seems like we used 2oz. Should I use small fuel line or will medium work?

What is a good fuel I can use in the norvel and also in my saito 100? I would like to buy a gallon. I think my local HS sells sig and wildcat in the higher nitro. What percent nitro? If I remember right, the 074 ran decent on 15%, but really liked the 35.

I'll get some pictures of my plane up later.

mnrcaerobat

My Feedback: (197)

Here is another question. Who makes a connector I can use on these ailerons. The torque rods aren't threaded. One is about a half in and the other about three quarters of an inch long. I want something small to hook onto these near the ends to keep from hitting on the wing. I didn't build this plane. I acquired it doped and ready for paint. It seems like the torque rods are backward. Here is a picture.

Bolio

The best thing to use in those torque rods is brass tubing flatenned and soldered to the wire. Just flatten the top and let the bottom round to isert the wire there. I even make several holes in the flat section to have room for adjustment. If you protect the wing with a rag, the soldering wouldnt be a problem.
Saludos.

mnrcaerobat

My Feedback: (197)

That is a great idea. Isn't that how ace did theirs? I had the ultimate and I think it was shown that way.

Toad

Cool Power 30% heli fuel works great in saito's, add a little castor to a quart of that fuel to be on the safe side, that little .074 will run like a jewel ( I have done this <g> )I like the 7-3 prop on 'em
6x4 would be good on a 'stang I think.

Andrew

Dubro Aileron Connectors Part NO. 101 -- the nylon horn is held in position by a wheel collar so no threads are needed.


Search Tower for Dubro 101

Bipe Flyer

Yes, ACE did that on their torque rods. Here's an illustration.

I like a 7X3 on the .074. They run great on Cool Power 30% heli, which has 20% oil. I always use a 2oz tank with medium tubing. I like the Hayes tanks the best.

KidEpoxy

I was using PM 20/20 as a universal fuel for Norvel074, AP15, TT GP42, & magnum 52rfs
The lil' Norvie liked the PM 25% I tried, but it also ran mostly ok on Omega 15%

Of course, I was never Ginsu Master of Mega Screamage, I just peaked & then off a bit rich

mnrcaerobat

My Feedback: (197)

Thanks Bipe Flyer (and Bolio). I remember that drawing now. I stopped at my LHS today and bought a piece of brass and will scuff it all up nice and epoxy it on.

beenie

My Feedback: (9)

I used the Dubro links on my V35, but the tube works as well. I use the APC 7x3, gets around 17k with norvel 35%. You will enjoy the little plane with that engine.
Ben

mnrcaerobat

My Feedback: (197)

The last time I flew planes with the .074, I remember the prop hole not fitting the prop shaft. Is there a bushing I need to put a APC 7x3 on my 074? I was at the LHS and they have the 7x3 on the shelf.

Andrew

You might want to test a short piece before attaching it to see if it will flatten without cracking. Some brass tubing is rigid and some bendable. If yours is rigid, anneal it -- heat the end of it to cherry red then dip in water. That should soften it sufficiently so that you can flatten it without having it split.

beenie

My Feedback: (9)

I slip a short piece o fuel tubing over the prop screw and that seems to fill up the hole in the prop.
Ben

KidEpoxy

woah! I know quenching will harden steel type metals, and we used to anneal pistol brass with a slow heat soak (keepin g the other end hard in cold water... you sure about this process?

Toad

Non Ferrous metals, (no iron in the metal) brass and copper, will anneal by heating to red hot then quenching in cold water. I do this as part of my job everyday. Copper is easier to deal with. Some hobby stores do have copper tube in small sizes needed in rc.

Andrew

The annealing process you used is fairly typical, since the water protects the body and web area of the case. However, the second step is to tip the case over in the pan. A little search on case annealing should turn up a lot of information. Brass work hardens and will never harden from the application of heat.

Your tubing will not be too sensitive to temperature because it is not under extreme pressure -- dull to cherry red in low light then quench will work.

Bipe Flyer

This is slightly OT, but I saw an interesting show where they found an ancient copper axe head. They thought it might have been to soft to be used and may have only been ceremonial. They tested it by melting copper ore in a fire and casting it in a clay mould. It was soft to begin with, but the more they used it and hammered the edge back into shape with a rock, the harder it became.

KidEpoxy

oh, ok
It sounded like hardening steel, but brass gets it own set of rules. I can dig that.
I may have to look up annealing cases like you said, seems I may have been taught the wrong way by an Olde Timer. That would explain why I stopped doing it, it didnt seem to help (go figure doing it wrong) prevent crimp cracks.